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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle


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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Sizzlng Hot, Amanda Berne

Bay Area chefs and diners rediscover the irresistible appeal of fried chicken

Recipes:

Maverick’s Southern Fried Chicken

Front Porch-Style Chicken

Oven-Baked Fried Chicken

Super-Simple Fried Chicken

Dirty Rice

Chef’s Night In, Dabney Gough

Chef Mark Sullivan of Village Pub in Woodside

Recipes:

Fennel & Citrus Salad with Olives & Parmesan

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Pirouetting with Parsnips

Recipes:

Noah’s Soup, Marlena Style: Creamy Winter Root Puree with Fresh Tarragon

Cauliflower, Caper & Pumpkin Seed Spread

What’s New:

  • Chefs’ strategies for citrus shortages
  • Hawthorne Lane reopens as Two
  • Mission Pie café benefits a youth training project

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Amy’s brand is the top scoring lentil soup

Restaurants

Dining Out, Olivia Wu

Zazil’s sophisticated take on coastal Mexican cuisine shows promise in San Francisco’s Westfield Centre

(This review appeared Sunday, January 14, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

House of Prime Rib, in San Francisco on Van Ness

Dining Update, Bill Addison

K & L Bistro in Sebastapol

Dining Out, Karola Saekel

Platano offers a taste of El Salvador in Berkeley

The Inside Scoop

Ad Hoc restaurant in Yountville will become permanent . . . new chef for Café la Haye . . . changes at EOS . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Tea’s Time, Olivia Wu

Bay Area artisan teahouses offer tastes to rival the complexity of fine wine

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Cuddle up to kohlrabi

Recipe:

Creamed Kohlrabi

What’s New:

  • Restaurant opening: Gialina, Neapolitan style pizza in Glen Park
  • Fancy Food Show: Natural and organic treats, fancy sea salts, exotic fruits and teas

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Canned root beers fall a little flat, Blue Sky and Hansen’s score best

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Seafood extravaganza pays homage to Dungeness crab

Recipes:

Spicy Crab Stew

Baked Chicken & Rice with Peas

East to West, Linda Furiya

Burritos can soothe your soul

Recipe:

Spirit-Lifting Burrito

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Seafood delicacies worthy of the Italian coast at Pescheria on Church Street

(This review appeared Sunday, January 21, 2007)

Dining Out, Jennifer Tomaro

South American fusion fares well at The Patio in Layfayette

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

A bumpy night at Lark Creek Inn in Larkspur

The Inside Scoop

Levende to open in Oakland . . . Manresa’s David Kinch will spend his holiday working in the research kitchen at the Fat Duck in the UK . . . popular Marina district bar manager to open a wine bar South of Market . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Growers ready for run on avocados, Stacy Finz

"The avocado industry says it's expecting football fans to buy 53 million pounds of Hass avocados this week for Super Bowl Sunday, rivaling Cinco de Mayo for the day of the year when the most guacamole is consumed."

THE ROVING FEAST, Marlena Spieler

An ode to cottage cheese

Recipes:

Pasta with Cottage Cheese

Cottage Cheese Latkes

What’s New:

  • Unusual brunch fare
  • OPENING: Miette opens Hayes Valley candy store
  • Recent openings

Kitchen (not so) confidential, Carol Ness

San Francisco's restaurant scores are more public now -- but are they improving food safety?

Dungeness crab stars at events and restaurants next month

"The city's signature shellfish will be saluted and savored at neighborhood events and at restaurants throughout February."

The Inside Scoop

Clown Alley makeover...Kuleto's sold...new "gastro bistro"...and more!

TASTER'S CHOICE, Carol Ness

DiGiorno pizza enters Hall of Fame

SOUTH TO NORTH, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Ancient chile at home in modern dishes

Recipes:

Chipotle Roast Pork

Cuban Sandwiches

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

A mini-vacation in Half Moon Bay at Sam's Chowder House

(This review appeared Sunday, January 28, 2007)

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Mandaloun in Redwood City provides mix-and-match Mediterranean

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Desserts set the bar high at Tartine restaurant

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, February 7, 2007

Tapping into Maple Syrup, Marlene Sorosky Gray

Pure, simple sweetener adds surprising depth to a variety of dishes

Recipes:

Apple, Cranberry & Maple Crisp

Pecan-Crusted Chicken Breasts with Maple-Dijon Sauce

Caramelized Maple Brussels Sprouts

Maple Almond Soufflé Pancake

Maple-Glazed Bacon

Maple-Roasted Squash Soup

Pear Salad with Blue Cheese, Hazelnuts & Maple Vinaigrette

Seasonal Cook, Tara Duggan

Year of the fickle fungi

Recipe:

Black Chanterelle-Duck Confit Spring Rolls with Blood Orange-Truffle Dipping Sauce

Chef’s Night In, Dabney Gough

Chef Gabriel Fregoso of Las Camelias restaurant in San Rafael

Recipe:

Charro’s Chamarro (Lamb Shanks)

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Look-alike cracker beats original stoned wheat thins, 365 brand from Whole Foods is the winner

What’s New:

  • Chocolate overload
  • Peet’s rare bean coffee
  • Restaurant Opening: Chiaroscuro in San Francisco
  • Market Watch: Citrus prices better than expected, strawberries are not in yet
  • Shopping Cart: Pillsbury biscuits in “perfect portions’
  • Alexander Valley Gourmet Manhattan-Style Fresh Pickles

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Make-ahead Chinese sauce enhances weeknight meals

Recipes:

Chinese Black Bean Sauce

Clams with Chinese Black Bean Sauce

Chicken & Broccolini with Chinese Black Bean Sauce

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Robust dishes, diverse American flavors come together at Salt House in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, February 4, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Downtown in Berkeley loses its cutting edge

The faded daffodil on the host stand at Downtown turned out to be highly symbolic

Dining Out, Carol Ness

Naan is the star at Oakland's Breads of India

Except for a few bright spots, Old Oakland can feel like a ghost town after the sun goes down.

The Inside Scoop

Per Se executive sous chef to join Michael Mina . . . local restaurant group in discussions with Carlos Santana . . . changes on the Peninsula restaurant scene . . . and more.

Letters to Food

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Mood Food, Marlena Spieler

Last-minute menu puts romance at your finger tips

Recipes:

Smoked Salmon with Truffle Oil

Leah’s Polenta Hearts with Gorgonzola

Endive, Fennel & Arugula Salad with Pomegranate & Mint

Meyer Lemon Spaghetti

Chicken Breasts with Mushrooms, Cream & Pink Peppercorns

Cumin Lamb Chops with Sweet Potatoes and Tomato-Ginger Chutney

Saffron Pineapple Carpaccio with Red Grapes

Tarte du Chocolat

China Chronicles, Olivia Wu

Dining high on the hog for Chinese New Year

Mayo made easy, Melissa Swanson

Recipes:

Rich Balsamic Mayonnaise

Olivia’s Sauce Remoulade

Pimenton Aioli

What’s New:

  • Lunch spots in the design district
  • Restaurant Opening: Wood Tavern in Rockridge
  • Baron’s Meat & Poultry now at Star Grocery in Berkeley
  • Marketwatch: prices are coming down on navel and blood oranges

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“White House Chef: Eleven Years, Two Presidents, One Kitchen”, by Walter Scheib and Andrew Friedman

Recipes:

Fresh Tuna & Olive Salad

Orange, Jicama & Red Onion Salad with Cilantro Dressing

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Out the Door gives mall crowd a taste of Slanted Door chic in the Westfield San Francisco Centre

(This review appeared Sunday, February 11, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Junnoon gets even better with time in Palo Alto

Dining Out, Amanda Gold

Namu’s fusion menu at home in Zen setting on Balboa Street

Dining Update, Miriam Morgan

Edgy fare mixes sweet and savory at Citizen Cake in San Francisco

The Inside Scoop

Valentine’s Day plans of local chefs . . . changes at Bacar . . .Koi Palace expands . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Seduced by Sugo, Tara Duggan

Long-cooked Italian sauces captivate chefs and diners

Recipes:

Nopa’s 9-Hour Bolognese

Veal & Green Olive Ragu with Strozzapreti Pasta

Sugo d’Anatra (Duck Sauce)

Perbacco’s 5-Hour Pork Sugo

Food in the News, Carol Ness

New worries for farmers, E. Coli, clones and genetic engineering

Accidental Vegetarian, Amanda Berne

The little passion that grew

Recipes:

Farro Risotto with Roasted Mushrooms & Chard

Shirred Eggs with Greens & Gruyere

Triple Citrus Salad

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Canned Cannellini beans are tasted, Annalisa brand is the winner

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Pres a Vi serves the newly bustling Presidio well with complex flavors in a giant space

(This review appeared on Sunday, February 18, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

PlumpJack chef is hitting high notes at PlumpJack Café on Fillmore

The Inside Scoop

Sammy Hagar rolls out of Tres Agaves . . . another location for Chez Papa . . . Quarry Ponds Market Hall to open in Granite Bay . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Abalone's lustre grows, Olivia Wu

Seafood By the Season: Eco-friendly aquaculture lures endangered mollusk back onto Bay Area menus

Recipes:

Koi Palace's Abalone Poached in Rich Sauce

Manresa's Abalone, Meuniere Style

Chefs Night In, Dabney Gough

Chef Keiko Sakuma of Kaygetsu in Menlo Park

Recipes:

Sake-Steamed Tai Snapper

Tofu Miso Soup

What’s New:

  • Flat Earth Veggie Chips from Frito-Lay
  • Opening: District wine bar South of Market, Avenue G on Stockton Street and another BurgerMeister location at Westlake mall in Daly City.
  • Market Watch: Asparagus and artichokes are coming into markets, citrus supply is better than expected

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

What's Up, Doc? Sweet winter carrots

Recipes:

Hearty Chickpea & Broccoli Soup

Lamb Chops with Turkish Carrots & Yogurt

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Asian-fusion flashback lacks innovation at Umami in the Marina

(This review appeared Sunday, February 25, 2007)

Dining Out, Karola Saekel

Food, music and books join in perfect harmony at The Musical Offering Cafe in Berkeley

Between Meals, blog by Michael Bauer

The Inside Scoop

Cortez closes for repairs . . . Medicine Eatstation closes to redo their concept . . . AsiaSF will open another location: AsiaLA . . . Rouge et Blanc wine bar to open downtown . . . Pisces in Burlingame to close . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, March 7, 2007

Rising Star Chefs 2007, Michael Bauer

The 15th class -- the youngest to date -- represent a wide range of styles, also profiles of their restaurants

Nate Appleman, A16, Karola Saekel

Recipe:

Octopus & Ceci Bean Zuppa with Escarole

Chris Kronner, Slow Club, Stacy Finz

Recipe:

Braised Pork Shoulder with Umbrian Farro, Spinach, Toasted Hazelnuts & Amarena Cherries

Tim Luym, Poleng Lounge, Carol Ness

Recipe:

Dungeness Garlic Crab Butter Noodles

Jennifer Kenny Nguyen, Salt House, Tara Duggan

Recipe:

Maple Walnut Tart with Banana Cream

James Syhabout, PlumpJack Cafe, Michael Bauer

Recipe:

Leek & Potato Soup with Melted Leeks in Ash & Marcona Almonds

The class of 2006 -- where are they now?, Amanda Gold

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Cornichons were tasted and the French brand Maille was the winner

Seasonal Cook, Janet Fletcher

Putting the heat on late-winter salad greens

Recipes:

Basic Braised Greens

Radicchio Risotto

Linguine with Arugula, Tuna & Hot Pepper

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Striking setting, uneven fare at Carneros Inn’s Farm in Napa

(This review appeared Sunday, March 4, 2007)

The Inside Scoop

Mexico DF to open downtown . . . new chef for Bacar . . . problems for Oakville Grocery . . . Helmand restaurant closed to repair landslide damage . . . and more.

Benefits

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, March 14, 2007

Irish cuisine comes of age, Georgeanne Brennan

Emphasis on fresh, local ingredients is right at home in the Bay Area

Recipes:

Coleslaw with Blue Brie Dressing

Steak & Oyster Pie

Scallion Champs

Irish Cheeses

Baileys Pots de Creme

The Accidental Vegetarian, Amanda Berne

Vegan stew from Provence

Recipes:

Artichoke Bouillabaisse

Socca

What’s New:

  • Irish breads from John Campbell’s Irish Bakery
  • Restaurant openings: Nua and Rouge et Blance, wine bars, Café Bellissimo, Butterfly Bistro in San Bruno, Jovino, Namaste in Berkeley
  • Cook’s Books: “A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School” by Darina Allen
  • Market Watch: Strawberries from southern California, Delta asparagus are in. The summer stone fruit crop should be plentiful.

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Buttermilk Pancake mixes are tested and the clear winner in Aunt Jemima, which enters the Hall of Fame with a score of 90 points.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

How to fry a fine kettle of fish

Recipes:

Salt & Pepper Calamari with Watercress Salad

Chicken with Tangerine-Almond Bulghur

The Baker, Flo Braker

Homemade loaves can come from a can

Recipes:

Date-Nut Bread

Apricot Compote

Restaurants

Dining Out, Amanda Gold

Think global but eat local and don’t skip dessert at AVA in San Anselmo

(This review appeared on Sunday, March 11, 2007)

Dining Out, Tara Duggan

New-wave sushi at Tsunami on Fulton Street

Dining Update, Carol Ness

A taste of France on Russian Hill, Le Petit Robert

The Inside Scoop

Original Joe’s passes to the next generation and gets an update . . . new East Bay openings . . . plans for downtown Redwood City . . . and more.

Benefits

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, March 21, 2007

Straight from the source, Carol Ness

New Series: Food Conscious: this new feature will explore food supply questions, issues

Local tap water bubbles up in restaurants, Carol Ness

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Green garlic heralds spring

Recipe:

Budin de Ajo Verde y Coliflor (Green Garlic & Cauliflower Pudding)

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Bare facts about bears

Recipe:

Mushroom Barley Lima Bean Soup

What’s New:

  • The EVOO-lution of Rachael Ray
  • Single-varietal ice cream
  • Openings: Sotto Mare in North Beach
  • ”Ron’s Box of Fish”, special menu at the Ritz-Carlton
  • Market Watch: Green garlic, fennel, broccoli, mandarins, clementines, rhubarb, strawberries, asparagus are all in the market!!!

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Two top mascarpones hail from Italy, Ciresa and Igor are the top scorers

Bay Area chefs snag Beard nominations

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Liquid chocolate tempts both saints and sinners

Recipes:

Velvety Foamy Chocolate In a Cup

Chocolate Atole

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

Crock-Pot recipes for single eaters

Recipes:

Chicken Mole

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Classic American fare, fair prices at the Presidio Social Club

(This review appeared Sunday, March 18, 2007)

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Quiet refuge comes to San Carlos, Azure restaurant does Continental/California cuisine

Dining Update, Karola Saekel

A trust old spot loses its charm, Inn Kensington

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

After 15 years, LuLu still going strong

Between Meals, blog by Michael Bauer

The Inside Scoop

Lots of changes on the San Mateo coast . . . new restaurant in Winterland space . . . restaurateurs discuss the impact of an increased minimum wage . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Cupboard cuisine, Amanda Gold

Spring cleaning can stir up fresh ideas using your pantry’s larder

Recipes:

Velvet Corn & Mushroom Soup

Steak & Pinto Beans with Red Chile Sauce

Pasta e Fagioli with Spring Peas

Herbed Rice and Tuna Salad with Chestnuts

Mixed Vinegar Dressing

Chef’s Night In, Dabney Gough

Chef Jay Foster of Farmer Brown restaurant in San Francisco

Recipes:

Chicken & Dumplings

Something sweet for Passover, Stacy Finz

Recipes:

Fudgy Coconut Macaroons

Phoenix Pastificio’s Almond Macaroons

What’s New:

  • Restaurant opening: West County Grill in Sebastapol
  • Beck’sWild Seafood dips
  • Where to get Passover fare to take home
  • Book: “Bento Box in the Heartland”, by Linda Furiya

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Top tamari balances sweet and salty, Eden brand is the winner

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

There are many fish in the sea, and most of them turn up at Go Fish, one of Cindy Pawlcyn’s restaurants in Napa Valley

(This review appeared Sunday, March 25, 2007)

Dining Out, Amanda Gold

With fine-tuning Harmony could sing. Harmony Restaurant in Mill Valley

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Ambience outshines the food at Le Colonial in San Francisco

The Inside Scoop

Hubert Keller will open a Burger Bar location in San Francisco and also in St. Louis . . . new chef at Ozumo . . . 55th anniversary celebration at David’s Delicatessen on Geary . . . and more.

Benefits

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The San Francisco Chronicle's Top 100 Bay Area restaurants for 2007

The full listings, plus Michael Bauer's introduction, maps and links to previous years' lists.

Restaurants by cuisine

American

Ad Hoc (Yountville)

Bix

Boulevard

Buckeye Roadhouse (Mill Valley)

Canteen

Chow (San Francisco and Lafayette)

Dry Creek Kitchen(Healdsburg)

Firefly

French Laundry (Yountville)

Manresa (Los Gatos)

Michael Mina

Range

Slow Club

Tartine Bakery

Town Hall

Asian

Betelnut

Poleng Lounge

Basque

Bocadillos

Piperade

Barbecue

Bo's Barbecue (Lafayette)

California

Ame

Bay Wolf (Oakland)

Cafe La Haye (Sonoma)

Coco500

Coi

Cyrus (Healdsburg)

Farmhouse Inn & Restaurant (Forestville)

Foreign Cinema

Gary Danko

Martini House (St. Helena)

Mecca

Myth

Nopa

Pescheria Picco/Pizzeria Picco (Larkspur)

PlumpJack Cafe

Redd (Yountville)

Rivoli (Berkeley)

Rubicon

Scott Howard

Silks

Terra (St. Helena)

Chinese

Jai Yun

Koi Palace (Daly City)

Ton Kiang

Yank Sing

French

Bistro Aix

Bistro Jeanty (Yountville)

Bouchon (Yountville)

Clementine

Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton

Fleur de Lys

Jardiniere

La Folie

Masa's

Greek

Kokkari

Indian

Amber India (Mountain View)

Dosa

Junnoon (Palo Alto)

Mantra (Palo Alto)

Vik's Chaat Corner (Berkeley)

International

Va de Vi (Walnut Creek)

Italian

A16

Acquerello

Antica Trattoria

Bistro Don Giovanni (Napa)

Cucina (San Anselmo)

Delfina

Dopo (Oakland)

Incanto

Oliveto (Oakland)

Park Chow

Perbacco

Pizzaiolo (Oakland)

Quince

Japanese

Kaygetsu (Menlo Park)

O Chame (Berkeley)

Ozumo

Sushi Ran (Sausalito)

Latin American

Fonda (Albany)

Mediterranean

A Cote (Oakland)

Cetrella (Half Moon Bay)

Chez Panisse (Berkeley)

Terzo

Zuni Cafe

Mexican

La Taqueria

Maya

Town Hall Tres Agaves

Moroccan

Aziza

Peruvian

Limon

Seafood

Aqua

Bar Crudo

Farallon

Hog Island Oyster Co.

Pesce

Pescheria

Swan Oyster Depot

Spanish

Cesar (Berkeley)

Zarzuela

Swiss

Matterhorn

Vegetarian

Greens

Vietnamese

Slanted Door

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, April 4, 2007

Two Easters in one, Karola Saekel

East Bay family’s meal draws on ancient traditions of Palestine

Like Christians worldwide, the Nassar family is preparing for Easter this week. And like most of their neighbors, this year they will celebrate only once.

Generally, the family marks the feast of the resurrection of Christ twice: Once for Samir Nassar, who is of the Eastern Orthodox faith, and once for his wife, Georgette, a Catholic. The two celebrations, with dates anchored in ancient customs tied to the lunar calendar, can be as much as six weeks apart. This year, they fall on the same date: April 8.

Recipes:

Roasted Game Hens on Sumac-Onion Bread (Mousakhan)

Palestinian Hummus

Mint & Cucumber Yogurt Salad (Laban bi Khiar)

Rice with Minced Lamb

Easter Cookies with Dates (Kaak bi Ajwa)

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Memories are made of sturdy matzo pancakes

Recipes:

Banana-Nut Matzo Brei with Brown Sugar & Sour Cream

Savory Mushroom (or Chopped Pot Roast) Matzo Brei

Plain Matzo Brei

The Baker, Flo Braker

Dreamy shortcakes celebrate spring

Recipes:

Spring Fruit Shortcakes

What’s New:

  • Book: “A Pig in Provence”, by Georgeanne Brennan
  • Upscale chocolates for Easter
  • Restaurant Opening: BarbersQ in Napa
  • Participate in the Zagat survey
  • New food vendors at the ballparks
  • New Market Opening: Mi Pueblo Food Center in Oakland

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Safeway produces the best frozen peaches

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Transitional dishes suit the fickle weather of spring

Recipes:

Apple-Smothered Pork Chops

Butterfly Pasta with Smoked Salmon & Asparagus

Restaurants

Dining Out, Jennifer Tomaro

Walnut Creek tackles “S.F.” cuisine at The San Franciscan Restaurant

Dining Update, Miriam Morgan

Dynamite wine list accents French menu at Bistro Elan in Palo Alto

The Inside Scoop

Home on Union to become Palmetto . . . Mariquita Farm no longer selling at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market . . . local chef Sean O’Brien of Myth is one of Food & Wine’s best of 2007 . . . more burger joints opening . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Shell Game, Janet Fletcher

Taking a crack at fresh coconut leads to delicious results

Recipes:

Spicy Grated Beets with Coconut Beet Thoran

Kerala Fish Curry (Meen Molee)

Dave Brayer’s Seafood Noodle Soup with Coconut Milk

Green Curry Chicken (Lili Kari)

Making and using coconut milk, Janet Fletcher

Where to find coconut grating stools

Additional Recipes:

Carrot & Raisin Salad (Gajar nu Salad), Adapted from "My Bombay Kitchen: Traditional and Modern Parsi Home Cooking" by Niloufer Ichaporia King

Lemongrass-Scented Coconut Rice (Nasi Uduk) , adapted from "Cradle of Flavor: Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore," by James Oseland

The Accidental Vegetarian, Amanda Berne

Handheld turnovers are perfect for picnics

Recipes:

Smoky Potato Pie

Broccoli, Green Garlic & Ricotta Pie

Chef’s Night In, Dabney Gough

Grilled lamb chops take on a German accent from chef Fabrizio Wiest of Suppenkuche

Recipe:

Grilled Lamb Chops with Red Beet Salad

What’s New:

  • Restaurant Openings: Piqueo’s, Peruvian cuisine in Bernal Heights and Zadin Vietnamese in the Castro
  • Texas raised “Akaushi beef
  • Sancho’s Taqueria in Redwood City expands
  • Market Watch: Strawberries and Delta asparagus, cherries coming soon, looks to be a good year for local fruit

Taster’s Choice, author

King Oscar Tiny Tots Sardines are head and tail above others

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Impressive wine list matches eclectic cuisine at Nectar in Burlingame

(This review appeared Sunday, April 8, 2007)

Dining Out, Carol Ness

New Orleans hospitality is alive and well in Berkeley at Angeline’s Louisiana Kitchen

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Touch of the South in Sonoma at The General’s Daughter

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Food Conscious: Eating Locally for Less, Carol Ness

Sticking to a budget and nearby food sources proves a challenge for some, a cinch for others

Recipes:

Asparagus Fritatta

Nicolas Petti’s Wild Fennel Sausage-Stuffed Artichoke

Apple Granita

Pollo Local Hash

Ethereal Cream of Potato-Blue Cheese Soup (Don’t Step on My Blue Spud Soup)

How to be a locavore

One Burger, Hold the Carbon, Carol Ness

The Urbanite: Staffer steps up to the plate, Jane Trunks

The Foragers: Mendocino restaurateurs, plus baby, take local philosophy to heart, Olivia Wu

The Pros: San Rafael couple have local eating down to a science, but aren't immune to cravings, Carol Ness

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“Twist of the Wrist: Quick Flavorful Meals with Ingredients From Cans, Jars, Bags, and Boxes”, by Nancy Silverton

“The Perfect Scoop: Ice Creams, Sorbets, Granitas, and Sweet Accompanients”, by David Lebovitz

“Classic Starts Desserts”, by Emily Luchetti

“Lidia’s Table: 140 Simple and Delicious Recipes From the Ten Places in Italy That Lidia Loves Most”, by Lidia Matticcho Bastianich

“The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink”, edoted by Andrew F. Smith

Recipes:

Seared Scallops with Sweet Corn, Edamame & Brown Butter (Nancy Silverton)

Fried Chickpea Polenta (Panelle) (Lidia Matticcho Bastianich)

What’s New:

  • Where to find churros
  • Restaurant Openings: Bonarda in Burlingame and Tajine on Polk Street
  • Market Watch: Strawberries and red mangoes
  • New book: “The Wheat-Free Cook: Gluten-Free Recipes for Everyone”, by Jacqueline Mallorca

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Rosarita’s refried beans join the Hall of Fame, Amy’s brand and Taco Bell are close behind

Guittard protests proposal to allow vegetable oil in chocolate, Carol Ness

Bay Area Cookbook Winners

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Refined Hawthorne Lane is reinvented as rustic Two in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, April 15, 2007)

Dining Out, Tara Duggan

Practice makes perfect at Regalito Rosticeria in San Francisco

Dining Update, Amanda Gold

Weathered decor doesn't lessen Taco Jane's appeal in San Anselmo

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Navio features earthy flavors in a refined setting, at the Ritz-Carlton in Half Moon Bay

The Inside Scoop

Lots of changes in Bay Area kitchens . . . PJ Steak closes in Yountville . . . new service on the web: Tablestalker . . . and more.

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Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, April 25, 2007

LOCAL WATERS CLAM UP, Olivia Wu

The tiny, sweet shellfish boost coastal environment and diners' seafood choices

Recipes:

Clams Tarragon

Chile Clams with Basil

Chorizo & Clams

Red Clam Chowder

Homemade Gigante Beans

Where to buy local clams

Fussy bean is worth the effort, Karola Saekel

"There is no getting around it: Fava beans are a labor-intensive vegetable. But to aficionados, the time their preparation requires is well spent, and the appearance of favas -- usually in mid-April -- is a sure sign that summer's bounty is just around the corner."

Move over, milk -- almonds are headed for pasteurization, Carol Ness

"Starting Sept. 1, under industry-written rules adopted March 30 by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, almost all almonds sold in the United States will have to be treated, either with short blasts of steam or dry heat, or with a carcinogenic chemical that's used to make bowling balls and foam seat cushions as well as insecticide."

Taster's Choice, Carol Ness

Frozen blueberries fail to wow panelists

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

It's OK to tinker a tad with tradition

Recipes:

Pasta con le Sarde

Quick ’n’ Dirty Red Beans & Rice

Seattle chef caters to West Coast tastes, Carol Ness

"In his fun and user-friendly new cookbook "West Coast Cooking," Seattle chef and food writer Greg Atkinson starts out by asking if there even is such a thing -- and if so, what defines it."

Recipe:

Pacific Ponzu Salmon

What’s New:

  • Restaurant Openings: Spork and Izzy's Steak and Chop House
  • Pipkins Pit BBQ sausages
  • Artisanal Iowa pork

BENEFITS

Star chefs gala...Cabs for a cause...Staglin music festival

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Lively scene with tapas and drinks to match at Oakland's Cesar

(This review appeared Sunday, April 22, 2007)

Dining Out, Karola Saekel

Ethiopian fusion food comes to Oakland

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

A taste of France on Grant Avenue

The Inside Scoop

Tires prove irresistible to Taylor's. . . Italy on Minnesota. . . Bacar on hiring spree. . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, May 02, 2007

Cooking in a vacuum, Tara Duggan

A far cry from boil-in-a-bag, French sous vide technique mesmerizes Bay Area chefs

Sidebar: The science of sous vide, Where to sample sous vide

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Grilled shish kabab, Mexican style

Recipes:

Beef Alambres

Potato Rajas Hash

Avocado Sauce

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Spicy Malaysian soup revives weary travelers, as Marlena reports on her first trip to Asia

Recipe:

Chicken & Tofu Laksa

What’s New:

  • Healthier tortilla chips for Cinco de Mayo
  • Openings: Split Pea Seduction on Sixth Street, Gator's Neo Soul Cafe in San Mateo, Bar Bambino near 16th and Mission, and Riva Cucina in Berkeley

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Panelists vote Trader Joe's corn tortillas as best with Mission brand a close second

Chefs muse sets up shop in San Francisco, "Le Sanctuaire", for hard to find professional cooking tools, Amanda Gold

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Presidio's La Terasse is still searching for its niche

(This review appeared Sunday, April 29, 2007)

The Inside Scoop

Chez Nous will change hands and reopen as a Roman osteria . . . Blupointe will become Gitane featuring food from southern France, Spain and Portugal . . . another Out the Door to open in the Fillmore . . . Cortez reopens after repair work . . . and more.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Mothers of invention, Tara Duggan

Four experts share their strategies and, most importantly, their recipes

Recipes:

Miso-Glazed Black Cod & Spicy Green Beans

Fish Tacos

Wagon Wheel Pasta with Asparagus & Parmesan

Braised Country-Style Pork Ribs with White Beans, Olives & Mustard Greens

Seafood by the Season, Olivia Wu

Long live the wild king salmon

Today, fishing boats are streaming from California harbors for the first salmon catch of the season -- and since 2005. For three weeks, until May 31, the waters closest to San Francisco -- from Point Arena (Mendocino County) in the north, to Pigeon Point in southern San Mateo County -- are open to commercial fishing of wild king salmon.

Finally, we can eat; we can celebrate. But the cheers and consumption, experts say, will be short-lived. That's because the area will be closed for the entire month of June, the most abundant month for local salmon, in an attempt to preserve enough fish to restock the Klamath River spawning grounds.

That means local salmon will be plentiful this month, but next month supplies will shrink. Prices this season are hard to predict, but at press time locally caught salmon was retailing for as high as $26.50 per pound, compared to $14.99 for Washington salmon and $11.99 for salmon from Alaska.

Recipes:

Olive-Oil Roasted Wild King Salmon with Tomato Gazpacho, Beans & Crabmeat

Crisp-Skinned Salmon with Chimichurri Sauce

Chef’s Night In, Dabney Gough

Massimiliano Conti from La Ciccia cooks a Sardinian specialty

Recipe:

Gnocchetti Sardi with Sausage Sauce

What’s New:

  • Market Watch: Spring produce is in abundance
  • Watch out for sweetened soy milk
  • 15 year anniversary for the Republic of Tea
  • Openings: Kabul City on Beach Street, West Coast Wings in Fremont

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Low-fat cottage cheese is tasted, Lucerne is voted into the Hall of Fame

Des Jardins, Keller among Bay Area Beard Award winners

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

A modern take on traditional Filipino fare at Bistro Luneta in San Mateo

(This review appeared Sunday, May 6, 2007)

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Nami Nami’s small plates intrigue, unusual Japanese offerings in Mountain View

Dining Update, Miriam Morgan

Nizza La Bella provides a cozy haven for diners in Albany

The Inside Scoop

Spago Palo Alto to close . . . MacArthur Park has closed . . . ‘Wichcraft looking for new locations . . . Olema Inn has new owners . . . and more.

Benefits

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, May 16, 2007

A piece of the pie, Janet Fletcher

From coastal farm to city cafe, Mission High students learn about baking and beyond

Recipes:

Pie Ranch's Mixed Berry Pie

Rhubarb & Strawberry Galette

Tuna in a can deserves respect, Marlena Spieler

I love tuna in a can. Fueled by time spent in Italy and Spain, I already held canned, preserved and jarred tuna in high esteem. As a precious commodity, fished for with great tradition and respect, preserved in good olive oil, tender and briny and delish, it is magnificent eaten straight from the jar with a fork.

Recipes:

Gretchen's Favorite Tuna Salad with Dill and Capers

Gretchen's Open-Face Avocado & Tuna Melt

Tuna Melt with Roasted Red Pepper Tuna

Showdown at Slow Food

Eatwell's Walker says Petrini's words were an affront. "It's kind of like I was kicked in the face -- all of us, not just us at the Ferry Plaza but other farmers, too." And he's a Slow Food member who has held a Slow Food event on his Dixon farm.

What’s New:

  • Omega 3 fatty acids
  • Wood-oven pizza pies
  • Openings: Essencia in Hayes Valley, Kara's Cupcakes

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Ralphs ketchup licks top-selling Heinz

Classic cake heralds spring, Flo Braker

"This wonderfully adaptable American classic owes its springy, tender texture to the gentle folding of two airy mixtures: the recipe's high percentage of liquid and oil (bound together by egg yolks) and the addition of whipped egg whites."

Recipe:

Lemon Chiffon Cake with White Chocolate Glaze & Lavender

Bringing out okra's best, Karola Saekel

"The local okra season is just around the corner. Most of the okra in the markets now is from Mexico, but within the next few weeks, the Fresno crop will roll in. As summer approaches, there will be organically grown okra from fields near Sacramento."

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Wood Tavern dishes up bold flavors, welcoming vibe

(This review appeared Sunday, May 13, 2007)

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Shanghai at its best at Shanghai 1930.

Dining Update, Amanda Gold

Apadana's fare calls for mix-and-match approach

LETTERS TO FOOD

Sous vide, solar cooking, and eating locally.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Perfect Picnics

Make the most of Memorial Day weekend with excursions to eight great Bay Area spots, plus the best places to get eats on the way.

Angel Island: Bay Area's easy escape , Linda Furiya

Marina promenade: Prime views, people-watching, Amanda Gold

Urban outing: Picnic-perfect Dolores Park in San Francisco, Jane Tunks

Go dog, go: Point Isabel Regional Shoreline (near Richmond), Bayside playground is a fetching spot for pups and their pals , Karola Saekel

Roll or stroll: Alameda/Contra Costa shoreline path invites biking, hiking, Eastshore State Park (Emeryville to Richmond), Carol Ness

Peak experience: Unbeatable views reward hikers at Mt. Diablo summit, Laura Compton

Surf and turf: Coastside Trail takes trekkers from wildflowers to waves in Half Moon Bay, Miriam Morgan

Have lunch, will paddle: Tour secluded beaches of Tomales Bay by kayak, Deb Wandell

Picnic safety tips

Picnic classics that are simple to make, easy to tote

Recipes:

Fattoush with Grilled Lamb (Georgeanne Brennan)

Chicken Breasts with Citrus-Garlic Marinade (Tara Duggan)

Light American Potato Salad (Robin Davis)

Asparagus with Tarragon Vinaigrette (Georgeanne Brennan)

Vegetarian Pan Bagnat (Marlena Spieler)

Food Conscious, Carol Ness

Wal-Mart to push sustainable shrimp

What’s New:

  • Eco-conscious options for picnic supplies
  • Picnic snacks
  • Opening: Cassis in lower Pacific Heights

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Vegetarian chili fails to catch fire, highest score only 50 points

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

An accomplished kitchen to match the sublime wine list at Cav on Upper Market

(This review appeared Sunday, May 20, 2007)

Dining Update, Amanda Gold

El Paseo pampers patrons with inspired cuisine in Mill Valley

The Inside Scoop

Many local restaurants are opening additional locations . . . plans are proceeding for the Mint Plaza restaurant complex at the Old Mint at Fifth and Mission, will open in September . . . Rancho Gordo, Carlo Petrini and Alice Waters . . . and more.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Digging Biodynamic, Olivia Wu

Restaurateurs look beyond organic in quest to cultivate pristine produce

David Kinch is known to drive at almost 90 miles per hour. When asked why, Kinch says, with a shrug, "I have to get somewhere."

Yet when this has-to-get-somewhere chef and owner of the four-star Manresa in Los Gatos arrives at Love Apple Farm in the Santa Cruz Mountains, he slows to an almost unrecognizable pace. Shortly after 7 one morning this spring, as two Australian shepherds dance around his heels, he ambles up to the back porch of the farmhouse. Wordlessly, he sits down on a bench next to farm owner Cynthia Sandberg, grabs a worn garden stake and vigorously stirs a nearby bucket of rainwater.

At this time of year, Sandberg provides nearly all the vegetables that appear on the restaurant's summer menu. On this May morning, the chef and farmer are making Preparation 501, one of nine formulas used in biodynamic farming. Ground quartz, or silica, is whipped into water for exactly one hour. The solution is then sprayed over the crops.

Biodynamically grown vegetables are the cornerstone of Kinch's cuisine because they are superior to organic, he says. Like chefs nationally who are strengthening the ties to the source of their food, he wants the farm nearby, and he wants to be hands-on.

Recipes:

Strawberry & Tomato Salad with Maple

Pea Pesto

Nasturtium Risotto

Manresa Vegetable Stock

Accidental Vegetarian, Amanda Berne

A garden-variety feast

Recipes:

Goat Cheese-Stuffed Grape Leaves

Goat Yogurt Tzatziki

Grilled Halloumi

Greek-Inspired Grilled Vegetables

Greek Marinade

Grilled Asparagus with Fetz & Dill

What’s New:

  • Classic Coke vs. Mexican Coke
  • Olive oil from UC Davis
  • Circulon Butane Burner
  • Julius’ Castle reopens

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Guittard tops a heap of chocolate chips

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

A crispy trout dinner can be ready in a snap

Recipes:

Crispy Trout with Lemony Roasted Asparagus

Pasta with Italian Sausage, Spinach & Mushrooms

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Rustic flavors appeal to citified tastes at Sebastopol’s West County Grill

(This review appeared Sunday, May 27, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

View remains the star at San Francisco’s Carnelian Room

Dining Out, Carol Ness

Flavors star at Piccino in San Francisco’s Dogpatch neighborhood

The Inside Scoop

Several longtime restaurants are closing, while two new burger places are planned . . . 70th anniversary celebration for Original Joe’s . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, June 6, 2007

A place at the table, Stacy Finz

Restaurant communal dining catches on

From trendy neighborhood restaurants in San Francisco to casual breakfast spots in the East Bay, communal tables are cropping up everywhere. Designers are putting the big family-style tables into places such as Salt House in San Francisco, West County Grill in Sebastopol and A Cote in Oakland.

Experts say that in these isolated times, people yearn to break bread with neighbors. Some are looking to make friends -- and even long-term relationships -- while others just want to feel a sense of community.

Restaurateurs like the tables because they're an efficient use of space and don't require reservations. Twelve years ago LuLu Bis in San Francisco pioneered the modern-day communal table. But it seemed that Bay Area diners weren't ready to sit with strangers the way they are now.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Up in Arms in the Big Apple: Dumplings capture the flavor of New York

Recipe:

Lower East Side Potato Pierogi

Chef’s Night In, Dabney Gough

Larry Tse, chef at The House in North Beach

Recipes:

Peel ‘n’ East Shrimp with Thai Dipping Sauce

What’s New:

  • Tropical fruit at the Alemany Farmers’ Market
  • Cherries, apricots and peaches are in the market now
  • Alter Eco Fair Trade rice
  • AAA discount at many restaurants

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Trader Joe’s fresh OJ makes it into the hall of fame

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“The Silver Palate Cookbook, 25th Anniversary Edition”, by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins

“Vegetables: Recipes and Techniques From the World’s Premier Culinary College”, by the staff of the Culinary Institute of America

Recipes:

Chicken Marbella from "Silver Palate"

Zucchini Pancakes and Tatziki Sauce from "Vegetables"

East to West, Linda Furiya

Listen to Mom and eat your kelp

Recipe:

Japanese Power Breakfast

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

French, Spanish and Italian cuisine converge at Nua in North Beach

(This review appeared Sunday, June 3, 2007)

Dining Out, Jennifer Tomaro

Vibrant flavors play off Huynh’s peaceful vibe in Walnut Creek

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Americano hits a sweet spot on the Embarcadero in San Francisco

The Inside Scoop

Mecca team looks at Mendocino . . . 50th anniversary party for Kikkoman in SF . . . renovations at Bacar . . . new chef at Cetrella in Half Moon Bay . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Signature Salads, Amanda Gold

Creativity mixed with seasonal ingredients makes for irresistible combinations

Recipes:

Amanda’s Signature Salad

Beet, Avocado & Kumquat Salad

Little Gem Salad with Creamy Herb Vinaigrette

Baby Greens with Strawberries, Marcona Almonds, Feta & Red Pepper Vinaigrette

Lobster & Burrata Salad with Banyuls Vinaigrette

The lunch salad gets even greener, Laura Compton

Curry leaves lend soul to Indian cuisine, Janet Fletcher

Recipes:

Roasted Cashews & Curry Leaves

Yellow Split Pea Dal with Curry Leaves & Mustard Seed

Seafood by the Season, Olivia Wu

Domestic farmed fish go under the microscope

What’s New:

  • Opening: Farina Focacia & Cucina Italiana in the Mission, also Little Joe’s new location and ZZA’s Enoteca in Oakland
  • Dry soda, an alternative to wine with meals
  • Market Watch: peaches, apricots and cherries
  • Patisserie Philippe on Townsend
  • Look for the “Buy Fresh Buy Local Food Guide”, in stores, it’s free from the Community Alliance with Family Farmers

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Buffalo-milk mozzarella hard to come by. Cilento and Spinosa brands tie for the top score.

Annual Dragon Boat Festival

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

The Restaurant at Meadowood has a sophisticated take on wine country in St. Helena

(This review appeared Sunday, June 10, 2007)

Dining Out, Tara Duggan

Fresh seafood is the draw at Pisces on Judah Street in San Francisco

Dining Update, Miriam Morgan

Stylish setting elevates Kingfish in San Mateo

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Ozumo bites off a little more than it can chew in San Francisco

The Inside Scoop

New sports lounge for the Miyako Hotel . . . Boonville Hotel for sale . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Breaking breadsticks, Janet Fletcher

Forget the bread basket; pass the grissini and salumi

Recipes:

Carol Field’s Grissini Torinesi

Emporio Rulli’s Grissini Torinesi (Turin-Style Breadsticks)

Bay Area's artisan bakers reluctant to get on the 'stick, Janet Fletcher

Rating commercial breadsticks, Miriam Morgan

The Accidental Vegetarian, Amanda Berne

Gidget goes to market: There’s a bit of a strategy for getting the most out of the market

Recipes:

Baja-Style Zucchini Tacos

Tomato & Corn Salsa

What’s New:

  • Central Coast olive oils win top honors
  • Bristol Farms to test and label seafood for mercury levels
  • Irish loaves at John Campbell’s Irish Bakery
  • Bellwether Farms sheep’s milk yogurt
  • Opening: Levende East in Old Oakland

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

‘Voluptuous’ Fage Total is the top Greek yogurt

Cook’s Books, Kacie Ratner

“The Hog Island Oyster Lover’s Cookbook”, by Jairemarie Pomo

Recipe:

Oysters with Cucumber, Lime & Sake

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

In the pool, thoughts turn to Esther Williams and eggplant

Recipe:

Melitzana Papoutsakia (Baked Eggplant)

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Chinese noodles tangle with tofu and vegetables

Recipes:

Crispy Chicken with Fennel-Potato Salad

Ginger Tofu with Noodles & Vegetables

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Innovative East-West Fusion at Nikko Hotel’s Anzu in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, June 17, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Service and food slide at Tres Agave in San Francisco

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Dim sum is spot-on at The Kitchen in Millbrae

Dining Update, Miriam Morgan

Soi4 hitting style over substance in Oakland

The Inside Scoop

Andrew Jaeger’s House of Seafood and Jazz to close . . . updated Filipino food at the soon to open Palencia in the Castro . . . Herbivore opens in Berkeley . . . two new restaurants on the coast Montara Bistro and Seventh Street Montara . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Scenes from the market, Karola Saekel

Farmers feed appetites for local products as the bountiful summer season begins

Recipes:

Turnip & Leek Vichyssoise

Braised Chard with Balsamic Reduction

Zucchini Gratin

Very Berry Pudding with Lavender Cream

U.S. olive oil coming into its own, Olivia Wu

Top olive oils, Alex Malamud

Food Conscious, Carol Ness

The shopper’s GMO guide

What’s New:

  • Openings: Mexico DF in downtown San Francisco, Sudachi sushi in Polk Gulch, West African, Lagosia, in Berkeley, Charles Chocolate Factory Store & Café in Emeryville, and The Kitchenette café in Sonoma
  • Aromatic preserves from Harvest Song Artisanal Preserves

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Only one artichoke dip, Santa Barbara Bay, scored well, heavy flavorings in the rest were unpopular

Cook’s Books, Carol Ness

“The Breakaway Cook”, by Eric Gower

Recipe:

Minty, Boozy Chicken

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Lively Greek taverna heralds comeback of Silicon Valley: Dio Deka in Los Gatos

(This review appeared Sunday, June 24, 2007)

Dining Update, Miriam Morgan

Magnolia Pub & Brewery in San Francisco, pub food gets a lift

Dining Out, Karola Saekel

Pleasant service, sushi rolled into one at Musashi in Berkeley

The Inside Scoop

Crustacean may open a Palo Alto location . . . changes in Marin . . . Marina Supermarket to open separate location for seafood and meat . . . and more.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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