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THE BEST: Offal


jogoode

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Near the end of this Casa Mono thread, we seem to have concluded that, whether or not Marian Burros is a good reviewer, her reviews do not speak to those of us who like roast guts, cockscomb, or a nice tripe sandwich. So what to do? Make a list where edible offal is served best in NYC.

You get one point for a good one-offal dish. Two for a good two-offal dish. Like Scattergories. Whoever wins gets to go to Casa Mono with Ms. Burros and has to get her to try the tripe. :wink:

I'll start.

-Ox tongue and tripe -- Grand Sichuan = 2 points

-Tongue two-ways salad, roasted and cured -- last year's restaurant week at Cafe Boulud = 2 points?

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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I think all the offal at Babbo and Lupa is outstanding. That guy has a way with the fifth quarter. I have enjoyed his brain ravioli, sauteed sweetbread with fennel pollen, fried lamb sweetbreads at Lupa... and the tripa alla parmigiana is an absolute must-have.

Is there anyplace in the city to buy one of those Sicilian sandwiches filled with spleen and lung cooked in lard?

--

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Is there anyplace in the city to buy one of those Sicilian sandwiches filled with spleen and lung cooked in lard?

Okay... reading one of JJ's links above, it looks like a trip to First Avenue's Foccacceria for a vesteddi is in order. Who's up for it?

--

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OK, Sam, I can't believe you didn't mention this, because we traditionally share one when we go there....

The mixed grill at Pampa. In addition to grilled short ribs, skirt steak, a chorizo and a blood sausage, it includes sweetbreads, kidneys and small intestines.

All right, technically they're not all "in the same dish", but they're all on the same platter.....that counts, doesn't it?

My restaurant blog: Mahlzeit!

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I'll start.

-Ox tongue and tripe -- Grand Sichuan = 2 points

-Tongue two-ways salad, roasted and cured -- last year's restaurant week at Cafe Boulud = 2 points?

I saw tripe on a recent Cafe Boulud menu. This is from the current web site.

BRAISED TRIPE "À LA PARMIGIANA"

Tuscan Style Tripe

with Fresh Borlotti Beans

Black Pepper and Parmesan

$26

For what it's worth, many dim sum parlors offer small portions of tripe. Most Pho places offer omosa as a soup addition. I believe that's leaf or book tripe.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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The mixed grill at Pampa. In addition to grilled short ribs, skirt steak, a chorizo and a blood sausage, it includes sweetbreads, kidneys and small intestines.

All right, technically they're not all "in the same dish", but they're all on the same platter.....that counts, doesn't it?

Definitely counts! How is the blood sausage? I have never eaten good blood sausage in NYC...

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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How is the blood sausage? I have never eaten good blood sausage in NYC...

I think it's excellent--by a lot, my favorite of the ones I've tried in this country.

I'd say it's a little salty but excellent. I doubt I have as wide a selection to compare from as Eric does, though.

Michael aka "Pan"

 

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There used to be several Restaurants in New York that served excellent Roast Whole Sheeps Heads and Pig Heads as well as "Suffritios" as well as "Lungen and Miltz" on the lower east side.

Fancy things like "Sweetbreads" and "Brains" were served at the "Four Seasons"and many other popular Restaurants.

"Duck Tongues", in Chinatown were available on request as well as several types of tripe, with "Pig Testicles" featured at Hakka Restaurants. Clotted Blood is available in 5 different varieties, done for various ethinic tastes.

Pork Livers, Tongues and Kidneys, Cheeks and Snouts are popular treats available at most butchers and many restaurants.

Various dried Fish Intestines, Stomachs and Bladders are utilized in many specialties as are almost every type of Tendon.

Turkey and Chicken Asses are sold for snacks or fried treats for special occassions as are all types of intestines. [chittlins]

There are very few leftovers, and often items considered offals are sold at premium prices.

Irwin

I don't say that I do. But don't let it get around that I don't.

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If sweetbreads count, the ones at Gramercy Tavern deserve a place on this list. 

How about the beef tendon at Grand Sichuan?  I've had them in sweet bean sauce and it was excellent.

They certainly count. I loved the crispy sweetbreads I was served at GT, but I'd like to see them grilled more often. Chestnut, Smith Street in Brooklyn, does a great grilled sweetbread dish.

I was intrigued by the tendon in sweet bean sauce, but I tried it in chili sauce the other day and it was truly awesome.

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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Turkey and Chicken Asses are sold for snacks or fried treats for special occassions as are all types of intestines. [chittlins]

I'd love to find a good chittlins dish. Anybody have a place?

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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Anyone have a recommendation for a place to get kokoretsi (various innards wrapped up with intestines and grilled)? The only time I get it is at the Ninth Avenue Festival, and the restaurant it came from closed some time ago. I think it's related to Ithaka, that opened on East 86th Street.

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Anyone have a recommendation for a place to get kokoretsi (various innards wrapped up with intestines and grilled)?

Try Uncle George's in Astoria, Queens (it's on Broadway, three of four blocks east of the train--what's the line that goes to Ditmars Blvd. called these days? W?). I keep hearing Uncle George's has gone down in quality the last few years, and perhaps it has--I only started going there a couple of years ago--but most everything I've tried has been pretty wonderful. I have noticed it is a bit variable, though.

I'm 95% sure I've had the kokoretsi--we were ordering a bunch of rotisseried meats (this is the kind of place that has a dozen rotisseries going behind the counter as you walk in) and asked for this one that looked great but we weren't sure exactly what it was (I'm not sure what the waiter told us, but it definitely wasn't the whole truth!). It sure was rich....

If you go, be sure to get the barbecued pork....it's sensational.

My restaurant blog: Mahlzeit!

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How is the blood sausage? I have never eaten good blood sausage in NYC...

Hmm. Maybe I'm not a connoisseur, or maybe I'm just desparate, but I've enjoyed most of the blood sausage I've had in NY, not that it's all that commonly found. I haven't had an Argentine mixed grill in a long time. Bathazar has a nice breakfast dish, or at least a weekend brunch dish of blood sausages, poached eggs and potatoes.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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Try Uncle George's in Astoria, Queens (it's on Broadway, three of four blocks east of the train--what's the line that goes to Ditmars Blvd. called these days? W?).

The W and N both go there. The R does not, but goes to 71st & Continental in Forest Hills, instead.

Michael aka "Pan"

 

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Sweetbreads at Macelleria on gansevoort.

Sauteed veal kidneys (served with risotto milanese) at Cipriani's uptown.

You shouldn't eat grouse and woodcock, venison, a quail and dove pate, abalone and oysters, caviar, calf sweetbreads, kidneys, liver, and ducks all during the same week with several cases of wine. That's a health tip.

Jim Harrison from "Off to the Side"

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How is the blood sausage? I have never eaten good blood sausage in NYC...

Hmm. Maybe I'm not a connoisseur, or maybe I'm just desparate, but I've enjoyed most of the blood sausage I've had in NY, not that it's all that commonly found. I haven't had an Argentine mixed grill in a long time. Bathazar has a nice breakfast dish, or at least a weekend brunch dish of blood sausages, poached eggs and potatoes.

I think the blood sausage at Les Halles is excellent (they make their own).

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

~ Fernand Point

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  • 1 month later...

I'll add to our list the excellent grilled sweetbreads I had at Argentine Pavillion a couple of days ago.

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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Macellaria, YES! I realize it's possibly the only generally acceptable offal, but they've done a chicken-livers-over-soft-polenta that is wonderful.

And maybe Crispo, if Frank still does his brain-filled spinach pasta agnolotti. He did it at Zeppole (called it veal, though) and staff would . . . well, never mind, but it was great.

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I've not had this, but how many points do I get for directing people to Eastern Nights Cafe on Steinway Street in Astoria, a fantastic Egyptian hookah cafe with the translated entreé - Tongue and Testicles. Check and mate!

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  • 2 years later...

Celeste, on the UWS, serves Fegatini di Pollo - Sauteed Chicken Livers Deglazed with Balsamic Vinegar on Toasted Bread. It's hearty and delicious. The crostini looks burnt on first glance, but then you see it's soaking up the reduced vinegar.

Kang Suh, on 32nd St, occasionally serves gop chang (small intestine). It's traditionally served in a casserole of sorts, but you can ask for it to be grilled instead. It's one of those things usually hand-written on a sign and taped up to the wall.

New Yeah Shanghai: ox tongue and tripe - excellent texture on the tripe. Beef tongue is delicious, too.

Boudin noir at Les Halles: Seconded. I could eat this all day.

(editing for the umpteenth time)

Edited by larrylee (log)
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