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Navarre's bigger plates


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We ate at Navarre a few nights ago, and everything on the menu is now available in a family size plate with 2-3 servings. John says he ate at his own place and realized he wanted more of some things and that the tables were getting crowded with plates.

I chained up the truck and drove Judith to work (Portland is paralyzed, as usual, by a winter storm, this one with particularly long-lasting freezing rain), and I drove by Navarre. There's sign in the window that they're open, so if you're getting cabin fever and have chains on your vehicle, you can eat something different.

Jim

olive oil + salt

Real Good Food

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Bigger plates is nice, but better plates would be even nicer. You seem to like Navarre pretty well because you're often recommending it, but the couple times I've gone there and the couple times I've gone to Tabla just down a block or two, Tabla easily won out. And the last time I went to Navarre was with a big group and we shared everything. And I think everybody in the group agreed, too.

Some items have been quite tasty there, but by and large I find their food rather mediocre and some items not tasty at all. I think they also have rather mediocre service, an awkward menu, and somewhat of a stand-offish vibe.

Really, I'm begging for a good reason to go back, not trying to be confrontational. I like to root for the little guy.

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Like many restaurants, I have my favorite dishes at Navarre - things I think they do very well - like their stews and slow cooked meats - yum. I personally really like the atmosphere - especially at the bar - its more like you are at someone's house and not at a restaurant.

I also like Tabla a lot (that truffle pasta dish is very good) but I wouldn't eat there every time I go out (it definitely has a restaurant feel) - nor would I eat at Navarre every night - but it fits for me when I'm in the mood for both that kind of food and atmosphere.

I think people have a thousand different reasons why they like particular places - I love the Hotcake House on SE Powell and I'm not alone the place is always crowded - but it certainly isn't for the quality of the food.

Not intending to blast you Nick but I would be uncomfortable if I had to justify the many places I like to eat. I think the great thing about Portland now is that there is so much variety now when eating out. To fit every mood, appetite and particular taste.

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I don't disagree. I just think when you recommend a place there's a certain obligation to communicate why that person should like it.

I also think it's fair to question a public recommendation in order to inform those that might go there based on the recommendation.

I don't think any of us wants reviews or reports on restaurants to merely be turned into yeas and nays.

btw, I've had one braised dish that was pretty bad there and one that was excellent. One of their obstacles might be that they don't really have many set dishes so each day may bring new challenges, which can be a lot tougher than a place that pretty much has a set menu. But regardless, either the food is good or it isn't. The challenge should be their problem, not mine.

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You can get a bit of an overview here:

http://www.portlandfood.org/modules.php?na...order=0&thold=0

But the dish I refer to above was a slab of "braised" ham. I don't know how braised it was because it was tough, flavorless, and in a flavorfless sauce. I'd have to go back through my Chowhound posts or emails to find more detailed info.

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Nick,

Jim wrote about Navarre when it first opened and mentioned the things he liked - among them the pumpkin fritters which from my experience they offer quite a lot. He also mentioned a few of the salad/vegetable dishes that I have noticed are usually on the menu. His posting is dated November 22, 2002 if anyone wants to check that out.

I respect that you don't like Navarre but Jim and I among others do. I'm not meaning to argue but my impression from your post was that you just couldn't understand why Jim or anyone could like the place. I have explained why I like it and shouldn't we feel good about the places that for whatever reason we like? I should let Jim speak for himself but after your several posts about Navarre I was feeling bad about liking their food and what they offer.

Anyways don't want to start a food battle but just offering a different take on Navarre.

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No, don't worry, I don't take offense at such things. I don't mean to disrespect your or Jim's opinion, either. I value Jim's opinion. If nothing else, I can actually choose good olive oil because of Jim. But I think there's a lot more to value of Jim's opinions than just olive oil.

It's more of a matter of questioning why some are so high on Navarre. Jim offers it up a lot as a rec. I just don't get it. That's true.

I do think it's fine to hash these things out. Ultimately, it's not that important. There's only been 83 reads of this topic so far and I'm sure many of those have been repeats. eGullet is not going to make or break Navarre.

To reiterate, I don't think Navarre's bad, just very inconsistent and not as good as the other restaurants within a couple blocks of it. If I knew for sure certain dishes were there, however, I'd certainly be tempted. I think the form of the menu disrupts that possibility, though. I also personally don't like the atmosphere because I've never really felt welcomed or waited on, both as a single when it was slow, and as part of a large group when it was starting to get busy.

Maybe I should keep my mouth shut when I don't like something (or fingers off the keyboard, as it were) and heed my mother's advice: if you can't say something nice.... But that's just not who I am. I like to praise and punish, especially when I'm shelling out the dough.

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Just for the record, I like Tabla, too.

But I eat more at Navarre, and not just because I've known John for several years or he's an occassional customer of mine. I think it's a great value.

There were five of us at the meal I mentioned above, we ate a lot, and the tab was $23 each including tip and wine. I had a special, boar stew, that was killer, as were razor clams (only briefly in season) with brown butter.

I don't have the capacity to eat (in terms of volume) that I had when I was younger, so I also like the small plate approach. I can try several things without taking home leftovers (not that I have a problem with that), and I don't feel compelled to eat more than I really want to because something tastes so good.

I've been very happy with almost everything I've eaten at Navarre, but the whole thing is so subjective I never assume that anybody else will have the same experience I do. When I write a review, I try to describe the food and how I react to it, and I try to avoid sweeping statements (altho' I'm sure you'll find quite a few if you read back over my stuff).

It comes down the old 'different strokes' aphorism. When people complain to me about a negative review, I usually tell them that if they like the place, keep eating there.

Jim

olive oil + salt

Real Good Food

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Sure, but obviously there's some shared experience that can be successfully communicated otherwise reviews wouldn't be of much use. There are "different strokes" but there's also a shared world of experience.

eg, with Roger Ebert, I often disagree with his movie reviews, but I can still tell whether I might like a film from reading his reviews, no matter what he thought of it.

I wasn't challening your integrity, btw, just wondering if there's something I'm missing. If I didn't trust your opinion, I wouldn't give it a second thought.

Anyway, thanks for clarifying and not finding offense.

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I had that boar stew and I agree it is killer. We also tried what I think is a new dish for them - pulled duck in a lovely sauce - it was great. To be honest their ham, potato and cheese terrine is too dry and flavorless and I wasn't too high on their friend cheese dish.

But their prices are good and I always find something tasty among their daily specials. And they always have good wines with good prices considering wine by the glass prices these days.

Nick don't keep off the keyboard - your reviews insights, and food knowledge are really appreciated - just had to stick up for one of my favorite places to hang. Any chance we'll see you at the Hotcake House?

Cheers

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Thanks.

I had that terrine and didn't like it at all either. I don't think the group I was with was too keen on it either. I had this chicken in spanish sauce of some sort that was excellent, though.

I don't really eat breakfast foods. However, I have a friend who only eats breakfast foods. So you never know. I really only like breakfast in Mexico. Except bacon, of course.

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