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Food Media & News DIGEST: Texas 2004


Richard Kilgore
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Houston Chronicle Food:

Super Squash

Renee Kientz discusses Mirliton aka Chayote aka Custard Squash aka.....

Houston Chronicle Dining Guide:

Reveling in Rotisserie

If you like Dodo's Chicken and Pollo Riko, you might want to give Rancho chicken a try. Alison Cook reports.

A Festival of Tastes

Dai Huynh in search of the beast weiner Schnitzel in the area. See where she finds it.

URL=http://www.chron.com/cs/CDA/ssistory.mpl/dining/sips/2845857]Capturing Cognac

Dai Huynh condusts a short -emphasis on SHORT- interview with Jean-Dominique Andreu to talk about Cognac. I sure wish they had more to say.

Houston Press Dining:

Steak and Peanut Butter

Robb Walsh reviews the new, hip Lemongrass Cafe whose menu is still young and plagued by the "Hit or Miss" syndrome.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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Houston Press Dining

Dumpling Democracy

Who has the best dumpling in Houston? Robb Walsh attempts to find out.

Order in the Kitchen!

The Lancaster Hotel made a big mistake by firing their Bistro's chef and Brian McManus is trying to set them straight.

Houston Chronicle Dining Guide

Your Cajun soul-searching is over

Alison Cook reviews a wonderful new mom and pop eatery in the Third Ward. Sounds like another must-eat.

The cure for the common meal

The lost art of charcuterie is making a much needed comeback. Dai Huynh tells us who is part of it among Houston eateries.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News: Texas Taste

Kim Pierce provides info where local house-made sausages can be found. This article is worth clipping and saving. You never know when you need a good sausage. (don't say it). The Daily Grind

The Ft. Worth Star Telegram

Executive Chef Jake Duplantis over at Lone Star Park has a huge job ahead of him next weekend when The Breeder's Cup is held. He tells Amy Culbertson how to plan a buffet in Building a Better Buffet.

Dallas Observer

Dave Faries asks "Can you really learn to cook at a cooking class?" Kitchen Detention

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Houston Press Dining Section:

Odd Timing

Robb Walsh on Bruce Auden cooking a benefit dinner for the scandal-ridden James Beard Foundation

Fried in the Heights

Robb Walsh reviews the Barbeque Inn. the 50 year old restaurant is a gem for great fried food and the best CFS.

Houston Chronicle Dining Guide:

Despite a few irks, a Turkish delight

Alison Cook reports about the fourth Turkish restaurant to open its doors.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News

In the Business section writer Cheryl Hall profiles Digital Witness, a Dallas company that installs and monitors surveillance systems in restaurants and bars. Oh, it's more than watching to see if the bartender is giving out freebies.

He can ask the computer to zero in on a license plate on Wednesday at high noon or find out what happened at Table 32 last Saturday night at 8:19 p.m.
Waiter, there's an eye on my soup

*********

Karin Shaw Anderson reports on all the customer help provided to Jimmy's Food Store after their recent fire. Clean-up.

The Ft. Worth Star Telegram

And now that Halloween is over and bags of candy can be purchased for 50-75% off it may interest you to know some of the candy history and current trends in candy making. Raising the bar on candy by Heather Svokos.

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Houston Chronicle Dining Guide:

Worth Waiting For

Alison Cook visits Marini's Original Empanada House that opened up again afetr thirty years.

'Tis an ale wind that blows

RJ Middleton conducts a beer tour among Houston's Pubs

Houston Press Dining

Dancing Delicacies

Robb Walsh reviews Saffron, the new Moroccan restaurant. Why read his reviews, check out these quotes:

A few minutes later, my dining companion and I are knocking back some cocktails and munching on appetizers when I see the woman again, this time wearing considerably less clothing. Turns out she's the belly dancer. She starts her routine, and I figure the polite thing to do is check out her curves. She and I trade big smiles while my dining companion rolls her eyes from behind her avocado martini.
The waitress asks the women what they thought of the pie, and one of them says, "It was different." I ask her if she knows what a mountain oyster is (it's a calf's testicle). She says she doesn't want to know.

Read it and check out what it's all about.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News: Texas Taste

Newlywed, newly fed features the Salt & Pepper Cooking Co. located here in Dallas. Their classes are designed to teach people who want to learn to cook; the true beginner. Article by Kim Pierce.

Cathy Barber reviews The Gourmet Cookbook and asks the reader to decide if it's a cookbook or a doorstop. I'm thinking she didn't like it.

Barbara Rodriguez visits The Rahr & Sons Brewing Co., a microbrewery in Fort Worth.

and Yeah! for Centennial Fine Wines and Spirits. They now have an internet station where customers can go online to read wine reviews and get other info before buying wine. Other store improvements are here.

Ft. Worth Star Telegram

Late to the game but still providing some useful info is Cooking on Red Alert which gives some tips and recipes you can use while we go through the tomato shortage. Article by Amanda Rogers.

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Houston Chronicle Dining Guide:

Home Away From Home

Alison Cook reviews Lemond New World Cuisine. Who knew that Pearland has such good eats.

Born on The Bayou

Fried Turkey for Thanksgiving? Dai Huynh reports on where to get a nice bird.

Houston Press Dining Section:

Sweet 17

Brian McManus delivers an excellent review of 17, the sleek fine dining establishment in the Sam Houston Hotel.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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D Magazine

Phil Romano, owner of Il Mulino (Dallas), received a somewhat bizarre review from DMN critic Dotty Griffith. She gave the restaurant four stars but the words in her review paints a different picture. Phil Romano was p.o.'d and has filed suit against the paper. Nancy Nicholas tells the whole story in Romano's Revenge. But before you read that, here's the review that started it all: Griffith's Il Mulino review

Jennifer Chininis presents the 4th Annual Chefs' Choice Awards. Local chefs vote on their picks for best chef, restaurant, etc.

Just like high school.

Read it here.

Dallas Observer

Dave Faries asks The Burning Question:

Do Specialty ingredients really make a difference? Answer

What happens when people skip out on reservations? Answer

The Ft. Worth Star Telegram

Amy Culbertson reports on a novice cook's attempt to cook a stellar Thanksgiving meal. She learns to remove the bag of giblets from the turkey, hilarity ensues, and so on. Thanksgiving 101

The Dallas Morning News: Business

Cheryl Hall reports on restauranteur Mico Rodriguez, founder of Mi Cocina.

Karen Robinson-Jacobs reports on the growing use of technology used to teach English to restaurant workers. Worth a read here.

The Dallas Morning News: Texas Taste

A Tex-Mex Thanksgiving by Kim Pierce offers a different take on classic recipes. You might anger your guests who waited all year for the Thanksgiving green beans/mushroom soup/fried onion concoction but someone has to stop the madness!

And if you go the Tex-Mex route you'll need some Mexican wine to calm down that poor chap who is crushed by the absence of sweet potatoes with marshmellows. Serve him Casa Madero and the number for Luby's.

Kim Pierce reports on Whole Foods new red seal that signifies artisanal products in their stores. Stop on Red.

Laura H. Ehret's Cookbook Review: Celebrations 101 by Rick Rodgers.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Dallas Morning News

Ok. Let's say you have $500 and you don't know what to do with it.

It is the holiday season so you could spend it on gifts or give it to charity or pay your electric bill but

NO....you go and spend it on one dinner at AURORA!!!

Was it worth it??

Joyce Saenz Harris reports on her $495 per person dinner here.

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Houston Chronicle Dining Guide (11/25/2004):

A longing to linger

Alison Cook visits Arcodoro to partake of their annual truffle menu. If you have the money, this seems like its worth it.

Houston Press Dining Section (11/25/2004):

Bordeaux on the Bayou

La Tour D'argent to reopen under a new chef, Robb walsh gives us a sneek peek ant the new place.

Landmark Fajitas

Is everything really better with bacon? Robb Walsh visits Herrera's Mexicatessen and tries to decide. The place has great fajitas but nothing else worth trying.

Houston Chronicle Food (12/01/2004):

Buche De Noel

In this clumsy article SYD KEARNEY is trying ,I assume, to tell us that this classic cake is not that complicated. I just cannot tell if he actually likes Julia Child or not, or if he likes baking. Decide for yourself.

On Rue Tatin cooking classes focus on food, local culture

Barbara Karkabi reports about Ms. Loomis' wonderful cooking school in France. A good read.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News

Kim Pierce and Karen Elizabeth Watts offer a complete holiday entertaining guide. There are suggestions on everything from appetizers to stemware. The articles are all over the place in the paper (hello layout editor!) so hopefully I got it all here.

It's Fun at any price.

Food gifts at any price by Tina Danze, Best Hostess Gifts by Cheryl Ng Collett, Cool stuff for foodies from the food writing staff, and More hors d'oeuvres suggestions by Kim Pierce and Karen Elizabeth Watts.

*******************************************************************

Get ready for a food and wine extravaganza. It's Savor Dallas presented by Jim White and Vicki Briley White. Cooking demos, winemaker dinners, etc. will be held from Feb. 19 - 20. You can read Kim Pierce's article or visit the Savor Dallas website here.

********************************************************************

And finally if you are a port fan Wes Marshall suggests some Texas Ports you should check out.

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Houston Chronicle Dining Guide:

Where Ranchers and City Folk Meet

Alison Cook reviews Carol's, a seemingly charming restaurant in Cat Springs.

Sensational Citrus

T'is the season, for Meyer Lemons that is. Dai Huynh reports on who is selling them, planting them and cooking with them.

Houston Press Dining:

The Next Chef Boyardee Link to eGullet discussion about the article.

Robb Walsh reviews Wolfgang Puck Express. Read and see why he thinks "Wolfgang Puck, creator of Spago in Hollywood, has lost control of his name".

elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News: Business

Casual-dining chains, that would be your Macaroni Grills, your Applebees, your Fridays, are after your business in new way. It's called Take-Out which isn't new at all. But the way they are implementing take-out is the next step in their plan to take over the world!

Karen Robinson-Jacobs has Another Helping.

The Dallas Morning News: Texas Taste

The winners of the DMN's annual holiday cookie contest are here. Click on the sidebar to bring up the pictures and recipes in each category.

Want to know what the next big thing in food snobbery is? Well, according to writer Bill Marvel it is micro-bottlers. The latest drink to hit micro-bottling is Bubble-Up, a soda that had it's heyday in the fifties. Drink up!

Fort Worth Star Telegram

Speaking of drinking, what are some of the drinks you should discover at your local beer and wine shop? Barry Shlachter offers Santa's Best Bottles.

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Fort Worth Star Telegam

Food Editor Amy Culbertson presents Very Merry Christmas Challenge, the Star Telgram's holiday cookie contest. Add those recipes to those from the DMN's cookie contest (link on previous post) and you'll be gaining those holiday pounds in no time!

The Dallas Morning News: Business

Oh there is a God. American Airlines is giving up the "Bistro Bags" and trying something new. Is it better than the Bistro Bag with the turkey sandwich that has been sitting out for who knows how long (remember the 2 hour rule people!)? Starting February 1 flyers will find out. Details from staff writer Suzanne Marta here.

The Dallas Morning News: Food and Wine

Are you a fan of Food Network's Sandra Lee? Than this is the article for you! Learn how to pass off frozen lasagna as homemade. Learn how to make angel food cake sandwiches with angel food cake and lemon curd. The rest of us will cry. No money, No time

The Food and Wine staff present their picks for the top cookbooks of the year: Booked for the Holidays

Upcoming classes and events: Book it.

The Dallas Observer

Mark Stuertz reviews The Grand Lux Cafe at the Dallas Galleria: Disney Chicken

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The Ft. Worth Star Telegram

Aahh, the New Years Eve extravaganza is fast approaching. Just like the prom and Valentine's Day it never quite lives up to what we imagine it should be. But that shouldn't stop you from having a good drink now should it! Cocktailing with ease by June Naylor features an interview with William L. Hamilton of The New York Times on his new book Shaken and Stirred and includes recipes for several cocktails. Take it from me who has actually stood in Times Square on New Years Eve with a bazillion people...stay at home, fix yourself a nice cocktail and look forward to another year of Food and Drink!

The Dallas Morning News: Food and Wine

I have this small jar of Seedless Red Raspberry Amish Jam in my pantry. I received it as a gift for Christmas. Sounds normal right? Except I've had this jar for eight freakin' years! It has moved with me to three houses. It stares at me and asks "why haven't you opened me yet"? Well to be honest Mr. Jar, I am afraid of you now. Your jam is so old you just might poison me. Joyce Saenz Harris of the DMN knows my fears. She too has food gifts of dubious origin and she offers ideas to actually use them. Use 'em up.

Ok I will. Next year.

Make Fondue at home like the Swiss do by Kim Pierce. Guess what this article is about.

Laura H. Ehret reviews The Best American Recipes, 2004-2005 edition. They must be psychic because I am pretty sure 2005 hasn't fufilled its term yet.

If you missed your chance to hang out in the Collin County Prison you can still do so and committing a crime is not necessary. McAndrew's Bookshop & Cafe is a bookstore and lunch place located in the historic Collin County Prison in McKinney. Sharon Hudgins describes this interesting place.

D Magazine

D Magazine's annual Best & Worst issue is out. There are a few food related items but you'll need to read the whole thing to find them as they are not demarcated from other subjects. (There is a really interesting article appearing elsewhere in the magazine and online but it's not food related so you'll have to find it on your own but believe me it is worth reading).

Happy New Year!!!

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Houston Press Dining Section:

Le Grand Cheescake

Robb Walsh reviews this huge turn-of-the-century "fake" built to resemble Venice...or Vienna...or Vegas, Grand Lux Cafe.

Houston Chrinicle Dining Guide:

Sharing The Wealth

Stamps Superburgers gets reviewed by Alison Cook. The burgers are huge, flavorful and well balanced.

Something Old, Yet New

Champagne (or sparkling wine) cocktails are back in...in fashion that is. Dai Huynh scouts the city for a few sips of the bubbly.

Happy New Year,

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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  • 2 months later...

The Ft. Worth Star Telegram

Amy Culbertson features an Easter Day Menu from Chisholm Club's Brian Olenjack. Olenjack will be showcased at Saveur's Hill County Food and Wine Festival and is traveling in June to cook at The James Beard House. Menu.

The Dallas Morning News

Zarela Martinez, NY restauranteur, cookbook author, and TV food personality is interviewed by Beatriz Terrazas. Zarela

The winning wines from this year's Dallas Morning News Wine Competition.

Wes Marshall visits Driftwood Vineyards in Driftwood, TX. Gary Elliot is the winemaker and produces eight wines, sold directly from the winery.

Cathy Barber has the winners from this year's Rising Star Chefs. The Rising Star Chefs Awards Dinner will be held on March 31.

For tickets and info go to Dallas Wine and Food Festival.

Chef Fritz Sonnenschimdt roamed the halls of the CIA back when I attended and I was lucky to take some classes from him. He is a classic! This Certified Master Chef was recently a guest chef at Central Market Dallas teaching the art of sausage-making. Joyce Saenz Harris has the story. Sonnenschmidt

Your Guide to Ham. What it says.

Kids Cooking Co. is a new cooking school set to launch this summer. Ian McCann previews some of the classes to be offered at this um, cooking school for um, kids.

Mary G. Ramos visits Heritage Market and Bakery in Kemp, a Mennonite store featuring baked goods and groceries.

Sharon Hudgins profiles Hermosa Bakery & Pupuseria in Plano. Hermosa specializes in Salvadoran food and eastern European desserts.

Lavender House Tea Room and Decor Gallery in McKinney offers tea and lunch all day long. Sharon Hudgins reviews this newly opened venture.

Kosher by Design Entertains by Susie Fishbein is reviewed by Jeffrey Weiss. Advanced Kosher knowledge required.

Dallas Observer

And finally, Mark Steurtz gives his opinion on the anonymity of restaurant critics as discussed recently here by D Magazine's Nancy Nicholas. Exposed.

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