Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Absinthe: The Topic


Lord Michael Lewis

Recommended Posts

you can start with a simple question about an absinthe ritual and open a big can of worms.

So it is indeed, at the heart of it, ritual rather than function... but suggesting that the ritual is simply for entertainment purposes could lead me down a road I may not want to travel with the dedicated?

It's kinda like wrestling a gorilla... you don't stop when you're tired, you stop when the gorilla is tired.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can start with a simple question about an absinthe ritual and open a big can of worms.

So it is indeed, at the heart of it, ritual rather than function... but suggesting that the ritual is simply for entertainment purposes could lead me down a road I may not want to travel with the dedicated?

the ritual has a function.

absinthe is such an acquired taste that a ritual is often needed to give the uninitiated a motivational drive to like the sensory side of the experience. susceptibility varies.

rene redzepi uses similar principles to get people to pay top dollar for barnicles at noma.

it is known that we have a hard time parsing sensory experiences. you cannot easily divide the line between smell & taste (olfaction and gustation) when you are eating.

believe it or not we also have a hard time separating the symbolic and sensory sides of experiences and that is why art can be so persuasive.

do i like that wine because it tastes good or because it is a first growth of Bordeaux?

if people completely understood the mechanisms of these things they could teach an entire nation to prefer their coffee black and save it a massive amount of calories.

Edited by bostonapothecary (log)

abstract expressionist beverage compounder

creator of acquired tastes

bostonapothecary.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Understood. I was a bit too simplistic in my reply. What I should have said was, from the perspective of what's in the glass, it doesn't serve a particular function that couldn't be accomplished in some other way.

Edited by Tri2Cook (log)

It's kinda like wrestling a gorilla... you don't stop when you're tired, you stop when the gorilla is tired.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Understood. I was a bit too simplistic in my reply. What I should have said was, from the perspective of what's in the glass, it doesn't serve a particular function that couldn't be accomplished in some other way.

To my understanding and experience, the most precise way to dilute absinthe is not by ratio, but by watching the slow drip and waiting for the clear layer that floats above the louche to disappear. The rate at which this happens supposedly varies between brands and is a good indicator that proper dilution has been achieved. My personal experiences have not contradicted this. If you pour water in at some relatively arbitrary ratio all at once, the layering effect is destroyed and so you kind of have to guess or be satisfied to taste and add.

Think of it like baking bread--the best bakers don't measure everything by grams and just go--they pay attention to the feel of the dough and add a little more flour or water as the case may be to compensate for the strength of starter, humidity, whatever. They are going for a precise effect, not a precise recipe.

All of which is not to say that just pouring water in quickly to an arbitrary dilution will ruin the experience or flavor or something, any more than following a bread recipe by measuring on a scale will yield crappy bread. It's just that the other way is subtly but noticeably more satisfying on a few different levels.

Andy Arrington

Journeyman Drinksmith

Twitter--@LoneStarBarman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you sir. That's exactly what I was looking for. I have no problem with doing things the traditional way, I was just curious if there was more to it than the entertainment/art value. The optimum amount of water to add comes from observation of the changes going on rather than shooting for a specific amount up front. So it's not entirely ritual, it's also technique.

It's a curiosity thing I have. I wasn't trying to offend the art side of the ritual, I just needed to know (no, I don't know why I get these "need to know" flashes) if the absinthe cares how one goes about diluting it.

It's kinda like wrestling a gorilla... you don't stop when you're tired, you stop when the gorilla is tired.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you sir. That's exactly what I was looking for. I have no problem with doing things the traditional way, I was just curious if there was more to it than the entertainment/art value. The optimum amount of water to add comes from observation of the changes going on rather than shooting for a specific amount up front. So it's not entirely ritual, it's also technique.

It's a curiosity thing I have. I wasn't trying to offend the art side of the ritual, I just needed to know (no, I don't know why I get these "need to know" flashes) if the absinthe cares how one goes about diluting it.

Eh, the art side of the ritual is frequently worth offending. You are right to question it.

Andy Arrington

Journeyman Drinksmith

Twitter--@LoneStarBarman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you sir. That's exactly what I was looking for. I have no problem with doing things the traditional way, I was just curious if there was more to it than the entertainment/art value. The optimum amount of water to add comes from observation of the changes going on rather than shooting for a specific amount up front. So it's not entirely ritual, it's also technique.

It's a curiosity thing I have. I wasn't trying to offend the art side of the ritual, I just needed to know (no, I don't know why I get these "need to know" flashes) if the absinthe cares how one goes about diluting it.

If you like to move the process along it is perhaps worth doing it the traditional way once as long as you are using the same brand until you see what is the dilution that gives the desired effect and taste. Then in the future if you don't have the time or inclination you will know just how much to add to get to the desired dilution more quickly!

As noted if you change brands it is not always the same dilution so you have to titrate accordingly.

For mixing with cocktails I have tended to use the Vieux Carre absinthe from Philadelphia Distilling (the same folks who produce Bluecoat gin). A bit easier to find and a generally a little less expensive to boot. And not bad on its own merits either to my own palate though I have admittedly limited absinthe experience.

Has anybody tried Pacifique or Ridge absinthe? Both are newer US absinthe and seem to get good reviews. Not always easy to find either locally though.

If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man. ~Mark Twain

Some people are like a Slinky. They are not really good for anything, but you still can't help but smile when you shove them down the stairs...

~tanstaafl2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Hello all,

I realize this thread has aged a bit, but I want to offer my own experiences up here since someone mentioned Vieux Carre and then asked about Pacific and Ridge verte. I've had the good fortune of trying all three of these, and for anyone who is interested in trying absinthe, they would all make very good introductions. As a short comparison, I'd say that the VC has a little bit more of a minty flavor to it, the Pacifique has a traditional Montpellier-style taste, and the Ridge verte is perhaps the most full-bodied and rich of the three, capable of taking quite a bit of water (5:1 or even higher), while you'd want to stick closer to a 4:1 absinthe-to-water ratio with the others. (As noted earlier, part of determining when to stop watering is based on when all of the essential oils appear to have finished being released during the louche, but part of it is also based on personal preference toward taste).

The Ridge verte (there is also a Ridge blanche, which is a white or clear absinthe) is the newest on the market, and the most difficult to find, but it's out there. One site I like (with which I'm not affiliated in any way) is DrinkUPNY, which has both the Ridge and the Vieux Carre. I'm fortunate to be able to get Pacifique locally here in the Pacific northwest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to eGullet absinthefiend! Thanks for the review. Pacifique never made it to the dry side of the state when I was in Washington. How is the conversion to private sales going? I assume you mean water:absinthe ratio, not the other way around.

Absinthe choices here are pretty limited. I think you can get Mansinthe and maybe some others that look a bit dodgy. But my bottle of Obsello should last about forever at the rate I make Sazeracs.

It's almost never bad to feed someone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Sorry for the delay, haresfur. And yes, you're quite right - I did mean water:absinthe ratio. Thank you for the correction. Reversing them would probably make the drink fit only for Paul Verlaine!

The conversion to private sales... well, I suppose time will tell for certain. It doesn't kick in until June 1st, and so far the only obvious result has been a thinning out of available products, as stores have begun to stop reordering certain things as they sell out. I was at least able to take advantage of a few closeout sales (a very nice Dewar's scotch gift sampler, Michter's US-1 small batch rye, and a couple of bottles of Pacifique). We'll see what surprises June and after will hold.

Good call on the Obsello! That's a very nice Spanish absenta which I enjoy most on hot days, as it's very refreshing. By the way, Mansinthe is actually a decent absinthe, too. In fact, the only "bad" thing I can say about it is that it's a mid-shelf absinthe without distinction, meaning that it's well-balanced and uses good (if not the absolute best) wormwood and other botanicals. It's perfect for cocktails and cooking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I recently had a miserable weather weekend to myself and figure the best way to fortify myself would be to drink Sazeracs all weekend. I had a bottle of good bourbon but no absinthe, so in a moment of self indulgence I sprang for a $60 bottle of Vieux Carre so I could coat the inside of the glass. The obvious problem, of course, is that at this rate I have enough absinthe to last for a lifetime of Sazeracs. I could drink it the old fashioned way, but that would get boring quick. What to do with it all?

I would kill everyone in this room for a drop of sweet beer...

Homer Simpson

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What to do with it all?

I'm fond of this from time-to-time. Crowd pleaser too, if your crowd likes craft.

2 to 2

by Stephan Cole, The Violet Hour, Chicago, IL

1 1/2 oz Aperol

1 oz Absinthe, Lucid

1 oz Lemon juice

1/4 oz Simple syrup

1 ds Orange bitters, Regans' orange bitters

1 twst Orange peel (flamed, as garnish)

Shake, strain, straight up, cocktail glass, garnish.

2-to-2.jpg

  • Like 1

Kindred Cocktails | Craft + Collect + Concoct + Categorize + Community

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm fond of this from time-to-time. Crowd pleaser too, if your crowd likes craft.

2 to 2

by Stephan Cole, The Violet Hour, Chicago, IL

1 1/2 oz Aperol

1 oz Absinthe, Lucid

1 oz Lemon juice

1/4 oz Simple syrup

1 ds Orange bitters, Regans' orange bitters

1 twst Orange peel (flamed, as garnish)

Shake, strain, straight up, cocktail glass, garnish.

I'm definitely going to have to try that one.

It's kinda like wrestling a gorilla... you don't stop when you're tired, you stop when the gorilla is tired.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Other than the Sazerac, other cocktails that immediately come to mind are the Improved Whiskey Cocktail, the Corpse Reviver No. 2, the Rattlesnake, the French Pearl and also tiki cocktails with the Test Pilot or the 1934 Zombie.

See the Absinthe topic or MxMo XLVI (roundup part I and II) for more ideas.

You could also make absinthe cakes, absinthe ice cream, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never had it due to unavailability but is its properties' reputation deserved? I would like to try absinthe...

There is no psychoactive effect, other than alcohol. It tastes like black licorice / fennel. If you like that flavor, get a bottle. I personally don't drink it often except as an ingredient. As a rinse, a bottle goes a long way, as the OP noted. If you like Pernod / Ricard, then definitely try a bottle. It is more interesting, less sweet, and higher in alcohol.

Kindred Cocktails | Craft + Collect + Concoct + Categorize + Community

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never had it due to unavailability but is its properties' reputation deserved? I would like to try absinthe...

There is no psychoactive effect, other than alcohol. It tastes like black licorice / fennel. If you like that flavor, get a bottle. I personally don't drink it often except as an ingredient. As a rinse, a bottle goes a long way, as the OP noted. If you like Pernod / Ricard, then definitely try a bottle. It is more interesting, less sweet, and higher in alcohol.

My suspicion. As an aperitif alcohol can have some potent affects on an empty stomach...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember off the top of my head (and too tired to look it up), but some French absinthe I had in the time after it was reintroduced in Europe but still banned in the States gave me a sort of clear-headed feeling for half an hour or so, then I was just left with a gigantic alcohol wallop for the rest of the night. There's no real "high" or "tripping" sensation though.

Ethanol by the way does have a psychoactive effect, that's what intoxication is!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I seem to remember that the wine industry in France was suffering due to the popularity of Absinthe. The infamously purported perils of the liquor were actually a result brought on by a smear campaign that ended with the banning of absinthe in 1914. Sounds familiar... :hmmm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I seem to remember that the wine industry in France was suffering due to the popularity of Absinthe. The infamously purported perils of the liquor were actually a result brought on by a smear campaign that ended with the banning of absinthe in 1914. Sounds familiar... :hmmm:

Yep

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

The Whisky Exchange absinthe selection includes the Jades in 20 cl bottles for around £22 (~$30 ex VAT). Which one should I get for cocktail purposes?

My favorite is the Edouard (72%), mostly for Sazeracs & similar rinse/garnish applications.

True rye and true bourbon wake delight like any great wine...dignify man as possessing a palate that responds to them and ennoble his soul as shimmering with the response.

DeVoto, The Hour

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Whisky Exchange absinthe selection includes the Jades in 20 cl bottles for around £22 (~$30 ex VAT). Which one should I get for cocktail purposes?

They have St. George too. I've been very happy with it, by itself or in cocktails. Give it a shot.

After the Gastown, last night I tried another creation from Happiness Forgets, this one by Johan Ekelund. Absinthe as the base (the original recipe was created with Pernod, I substituted St. George), grapefruit juice (I used Oro Blanco instead of pink grapefruit), lime juice, simple syrup, mint, and egg white. Egg white emulsified by hand; I had pretty good luck this time (this was a very fresh egg).

Dapper Man Sour (original recipe here, converted to oz in the Kindred database)

11446100223_17b9a0bf3a_z.jpg

The egg white tamed the absinthe quite a bit without covering its flavor. It reminded me of other cocktails marrying absinthe with egg white, for example the Swiss Mist in PDT, although that one has gin as the base and absinthe as an accent. It's a very nice way to enjoy absinthe.

Oh, and that made me smile - "I don’t believe in fine straining but if that is how you (the reader) like it I have no objections." So I did not bother double straining.

Edited by FrogPrincesse (log)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...