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 what's best in the bay area for Japanese?


samuelsontag

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for some reason unknown to me, i've never found top-notch sushi in japantown [in San Francisco] ...

Fortunately, there is one major exception to this generalization: Ino Sushi.

Ino Sushi is basically on the level of Kiss or (the new smaller) Kabuto which were both mentioned above, and like them is the reflection of the fanatic integrity of its master chef and owner.

At Ino Sushi the chef is Noboru Inoue, who has been in business nearby for twenty-five years. Recently the building housing his sushi bar was demolished to build a bigger building, so he moved into Japan Center proper--now at 22 Peace Plaza #510, SF 94115, on the second floor very close to the Radisson Miyako hotel.

Like Kiss and the new Kabuto, Ino is very small--9 seats at the bar and a maximum of 10 seats at tables. It is exceptionally quiet and peaceful, with an amazing blonde-wood sushi bar, calligraphy on the walls, Japanese art, all in exquisite taste. Inoue-san does all the preparation personally, and his wife serves.

Like Kabuto, Ino buys the most expensive cuts of seasonally-perfect fish, and any fish offered will be exceptionally good (unlike the cheaper spots, where most of the fish isn't fit to be sold as sushi). Ino-san has a large choice in the sushi bar, and many items "below the counter". Literally not to be missed is his ankimo (monkfish liver), which he buys and prepares himself--it is completely different from ankimo anywhere else, and is so exceptionally rich that it makes wonderful sushi. Many fish are available in "local" and "Japanese" variants (caught on the two sides of the Pacific) for comparison. But everything is fabulously fresh and good.

Inoue-san has a large supply of sakes (some not normally sold in the US), and is very helpful in choosing one to suit the drinker.

Kiss is similar in some ways (small, chef of great integrity, quality) but it is really not a sushi bar--it specializes in full Japanese dinners with a single sushi course, so it doesn't have the range of fish on any one night. Kabuto is also similar (almost as small in its new location, and Kojima-san is certainly a chef of the highest integrity, and the selection is much larger every night) but Kabuto still serves non-sushi dishes (Aya is in the kitchen now), and the new location is so crowded and bright and noisy that it has lost most of the charm of the original location across the street--though none of the quality has been lost.

Ino Sushi, by contrast, serves only what a proper sushi bar serves--grilled sardines, steamed egg custard, miso soup, yes, but apart from a few things like that it is sushi and sashimi only, and only the classical items and rolls. This focus makes it possible to have a large selection. And the physical surroundings are unparalleled--quiet, tranquil, visually peaceful, unhurried. Many Japanese family and business clients. Very few loud customers asking for "inside-out mayonnaise football roll" or such nonsense.

Ino, Kabuto, and Kiss are all in the same price range, about $50-60 per person for sushi and ordinary beverages, plus generous tip. At all three, a regular customer will receive a personalized reception, but everyone is treated exceptionally well. These are the three places to check out in San Francisco. For me, the elegance of Ino Sushi puts it a bit in front.

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I recommend Uzen in the Rockridge area of Oakland. Excellent, reliable sushi.

I would have to recommend AGAINST Ozumo in SF. Their rolls and other esoterica were good the one time we went, but their sushi was inedible. It was like they were trying to use up the crap fish on us.

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Go to Kiss, you won't regret it.

Thanks Melkor. I made reservations and specified that we wanted omakase. Anything else I should know about?

A restaurant called KISS seemed most appropriate for Valentine's Day anyway. ;)

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Ask to be seated at the sushi bar (you may want to call ahead to request this). If you arrive early, you will probably have to wait outside, as the place is tiny. It's also really quiet - definitely not a place to take rowdy friends.

I've been there twice and both times have been amazed at the quality of the food and tranquility of the space.

allison

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