DIGEST: The Toronto Star

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Toronto Star – July 25, 2007

Tastes of Yemen

By Habeeb Salloum

Traditional Yemeni dishes such as zhug and saltah give an insight into the culinary delight of a country that the Romans called "Happy Arabia."

Recipes:

* HULBAH (FENUGREEK PASTE)

* ZHUG (SPICY RELISH)

* HOR'L (BEEF SHANK STEW)

* SALTAH (GROUND MEAT STEW)

* LENTIL STEW

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Taste South African heat

By Jennifer Bain

After more than a decade in the 'burbs, Nando's flame-grilled chicken chain has ventured into North Toronto. The new Leaside branch is a respectable distance from the Portuguese churrasquerias that dominate in the west end.

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Toronto Star – August 1, 2007

Savouring every tasteful moment

By Marion Kane

It was the day before Father's Day and I'd dropped by one of my favourite haunts: The Cookbook Store in downtown T.O.

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Chilled whites to make your summer sizzle

By Gordon Stimmell

In the heat of the summer, I veer a bit away from sauvignon blancs and opt for something with a hint of sweetness. Both rieslings selected from today's Vintages newcomers, the Schonborn from Germany and the Flat Rock from Niagara, have a tinge of sugar, yet are well-balanced. Both are perfect to simply sip on their own on the deck or patio, or play the role of party starters, but are fun to match with food as well.

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Tofu is winning converts

By Susan Sampson

People are coming around. Once upon a time not long ago, tofu was relegated to Asian markets and health food shops. Now it's in every supermarket. And it's not just a meat substitute. The Chinese have long known this. One famous dish, Ma Po Tofu, actually pairs it with ground pork.

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Hungry for Spanish tapas?

By Eric Vellend

The beauty of tapas is that most dishes can be made in advance and quickly pulled together at dinnertime. Salmorejo, the thick gazpacho from Cordoba, is poured straight from the fridge. Spain's beloved tortilla (potato frittata) and Montaditos (mini-open-faced sandwiches) are both served at room temperature. Even hot dishes like sizzling garlic shrimp and Moorish kebabs can be mostly prepared ahead of time and cooked in minutes.

Recipes:

* Tapas recipes

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A personal chef cooks up relaxation

By Francine Kopun

So, when my neighbour announced she was setting up a business as a personal chef, called Back to Basics Cooking (btbcooking@gmail.com), I was interested. For $245, she would come to my house, select a menu, shop for the groceries and cook 12 entrees and six side dishes.

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Toronto Star – August 8, 2007

Boning up on calcium

By Cynthia David

Dr. Miroslava Lhotsky, a Toronto physician and author of The Healthy Boomer, assured me that a diagnosis of osteopenia doesn't mean I'm at risk of developing osteoporosis, the debilitating disease that makes bones dangerously weak and brittle.

Recipes:

* Broccoli and Cheddar Cheese Soup

* Salmon Salade Niçoise

* Speedy Frozen Yogurt

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Peaches ripe for dumplings

By Susan Sampson

Freestones peaches are essential. Look for local ones this month.

Recipe:

* Peach Dumplings With Brown Sugar Sauce

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Chimay White fruity, but not too sweet

By Josh Rubin

Truly unique, interesting beers aren't always easy to find.

Fortunately, the search just got a little easier with the arrival of Chimay White, one of three strong ales produced by the Trappist abbey of Scourmont in Belgium.

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Corn zipper has one purpose

By Jennifer Bain

Yes, you can now buy a kitchen tool designed for the sole purpose of separating corn kernels from the cob. Kuhn Rikon touts its new stainless steel creation as being "safer than using a knife" – but clearly that depends on your knife prowess.

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Toronto Star – August 15, 2007

Gazpacho gets fresh with this pasta

By Susan Sampson

Go crazy with fresh Ontario produce as you whip up this pasta. It's superb and will feed a crowd.

Recipe:

* Ziti With Grilled Gazpacho Sauce

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The best vendors cook with lots of love

By Jennifer Bain

True love means lining up, despite the blazing summer heat, for a cob of corn or bowl of soup.

Recipes:

* Ginger Carrot Dip

* Heirloom Tomatoes With Orange Zest

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Set and match: Winner's circle wines complement varied cuisine

By Gordon Stimmell

This week's winners beat out more than 20 general list wines.

Winners include:

* Cantine Valcolli Barbera D'Asti Vecchi Ricordi 2003 $11.95 (Italy)

* Pascual Toso 2004 Malbec $12.95 (Argentina)

* Lungarotti 2005 Pinot Grigio $14.15 (Italy)

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Healthier than traditional tuna salad

By Susan Sampson

Here's a healthier alternative to the gloppy, heart-stopping tuna salad that's usually packed into sandwiches. It's bursting with flavour, not mayonnaise.

Recipe:

* Italian Tuna Salad

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Toronto Star – August 26, 2007

Film fest gets new celeb hangout

By Amy Pataki

So in the crunch to open his newest restaurant, One, this week in time for the Toronto International Film Festival, McEwan just laughs about losing sleep – and four pounds around his waistline.

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Patience will pay off in flavour and aroma

By Gordon Stimmell

Of course, wines also can be stored away for glory later, up to a point. How long will the wines discussed below, which beat out dozens in today's Vintages release, last if you sock them away?

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Soon dubu simmers under the radar

By Tamsyn Burgmann

With its eggshell complexion, supple consistency and nutty undertones, tofu has slipped and slid its way into a place of sturdy acceptance in urban cooking. While its modern chic reigns in today's ever-popular health-minded restaurants, its honest-to-goodness virtues are preserved in some of the GTA's less trendy Asian restaurants.

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Potato skins retro, but great

Star tested recipe for Cheesy Potato Skins.

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Great shopping comes to the port lands

By Jennifer Bain

The launch of a supermarket is usually neither here nor there. But to welcome the first downtown branch of T & T, I spent three hours Thursday listening to speeches, watching cultural dances and cruising the aisles for groceries.

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Way to get your greens

Star tested recipe for Pita Pizzas With Spinach & Bocconcini.

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Toronto Star – September 5, 2007

Back to cooking school

All kinds of classes are cooking in Ontario. This annual list is compiled as a service to readers. Free listings have been requested from Ontario cooking schools and edited due to space limitations.

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School lunches around the world

A look at school lunches in countries such as China, France, India, and more.

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Creamy burrata worth the search

By Jennifer Bain

Twice a month, those in the know slip into the Cheese Boutique to snap up rare pouches of sensual Italian cheese oozing with curds and fresh cream.

Burrata, all the rage in New York and Los Angeles, is quietly making inroads here.

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Tastes have changed

By Josh Rubin

When Molson introduced its Rickard's Original White last year, some beer aficionados sneered. A major North American brewery making a Belgian-style wheat ale? How good could it really be?

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Writers' tastes distilled for readers' enjoyment

By Susan Sampson

THE ITEM: Hemingway and Bailey's Bartending Guide to Great American Writers.

Recipe:

* Mai Tai

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Toronto Star – September 19, 2007

Calamari or squid: Messy by any name

By Susan Sampson

Calamari is squid. It just tastes better when you call it calamari. That's the Italian name for this creature, officially known as a marine cephalopod mollusc.

Recipe:

* Calamari With Greens & Aioli

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Sandwiches need not be upper crust

By Susan Sampson

Tea and cucumber sandwiches make a refined repast for ladies who lunch. But these sandwiches are so good, you'll want to scarf them down any time.

Recipe:

* Cucumber Sandwiches

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So good, it may bring tears to your eyes

By Susan Sampson

Onions deserve more respect. There's an array of them in this luscious soup. Make it this fall in honour of Ontario onion season.

Recipe:

* Creamy Onion Soup

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A devil of a good ale

By Josh Rubin

Devil's Pale Ale, which finally made it into the LCBO in August, completes the satanic theme with a black can featuring a 666 road sign, along with the slogan "The Devil Made Me Brew It."

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Steeped in great tea

By Jennifer Bain

Seven contestants vie for glory in the steep-off, brewing assam tea, then concocting signature iced and hot beverages

Recipe:

* Pumpkin Spice Rooibos Latte

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Essential reading for food guide fans

Jennifer Bain reviews The New Whole Grains Cookbook: Terrific Recipes Using Farro, Quinoa, Brown Rice, Barley and Many Other Delicious and Nutritious Grains by Robin Asbell.

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Toronto Star – September 26, 2007

Applaud the cod

By Susan Sampson

Salt cod is cross-cultural comfort food. You can find it anywhere from the kitchen of an Italian grandmother to the menu of a four-star restaurant.

Recipes:

* Baccala Mantecato (Salt Cod Spread)

* Mother's Norwegian Bacalao

* Tanzanian Salt Cod Curry

* Bacalao a la Cerito

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Bitter green perks up pasta

By Susan Sampson

Rapini's stage name is broccoli rabe. Its slightly bitter flavour is actually pleasing in hearty soups and pastas like this one. Look for Ontario rapini, in season in the fall.

Recipe:

* Pasta With Spicy Sausage & Rapini

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Catering to a healthy lunch idea

By Jennifer Bain

School lunch hysteria is sweeping the city. It must be September.

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The Great One scores with a chardonnay for Thanksgiving

By Gordon Stimmell

With Thanksgiving looming, I took a fresh carve at what goes with turkey. I tried zingy sauvignon blancs, global whites and pinot noirs, but most did not click. Turkey is a mild meat that's easily overwhelmed by acidity. After trying two dozen wines, only three were ideal.

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Toronto Star – October 3, 2007

Ideas for turkey leftovers

By Jennifer Bain

Deciding how to eat up Thanksgiving leftovers is more than half the fun.

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Come on over to the sweet side

By Susan Sampson

Luscious, bright, sweet potatoes will make your Thanksgiving spread complete. Do you fancy them mashed, grilled or baked? Here are three recipes to try.

Recipes:

* Double-Baked Sweet Potatoes

* Sweet Potato Casserole With Praline Topping

* Best-Ever Mashed Sweet Potatoes

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Good food for all

By Jennifer Bain

Food security means being able to get the food you like, need and want. It means being able to get to a place to buy or grow food, and to do so in a way that doesn't embarrass you or make you feel ashamed. It's about being able to cook or prepare your food, not being judged for your choices, and not worrying about going hungry.

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Treasures abound beyond French offerings

By Gordon Stimmell

Today's Vintages outpouring of new wines contained several hidden gems. While a special focus in today's release is French wines from the Rhône and Midi and Provence, I was not overwhelmed by them. Oh sure, it was educational, but not a lot of great value lurks in the selections and few rose into the realm of excellence.

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Toronto Star – October 10, 2007

Globe artichokes in Markham

By Jennifer Bain

He was born here, but claims Italian heritage. That's important because Italians love artichokes. These days it's not always enough for farmers to simply grow something, they need to convince people to buy it by raving about how great it tastes and offering cooking tips.

Recipes:

* Anna's Artichokes in Tomato Sauce

* Greek Artichoke & Potato Salad With Citrus Dressing

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Fuller's beer real blast from the past

By Josh Rubin

When the London-based brewery celebrated its 150th anniversary in 1995, it decided to make a beer based on a recipe from the hundreds of pages of recipes in the company archives.

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Some tasty new wines

By Gordon Stimmell

* Finca Flichman 2006 Misterio Malbec $9.95 (Argentina)

* Moselland 2005 Divinum Riesling Spatlese $11.95 (Germany)

* Penfolds Koonunga Hill 2005 Cabernet Merlot $16.15 (Australia)

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Pineapple adds a taste of '70s to pork chops

By Susan Sampson

Recipe:

* Western Sweet and Sour Sauce

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Sting's Bucatini With Sausage & Peas

By Jennifer Bain

Recipe:

* Sting's Bucatini With Sausage & Peas

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Toronto Star – October 17, 2007

Making brownies 'Blue'

A Toronto woman wins a contest to lighten up her brownies and become a Loblaw Blue Menu product developer for a day

By Jennifer Bain

They are poised to be reborn as Two-Bite Brownies under President's Choice Blue Menu line. Sunflower oil replaces the butter. Evaporated cane sugar stands in for granulated sugar. The end result is a treat that will have 45 per cent less fat than the supermarket chain's regular line of Two-Bite Brownies.

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Souped-up zucchini has homey flavour

By Susan Sampson

Dinner is served in one, big, hearty bowl full of meat, carbs and vegetables. The veggies include the ubiquitous zucchini. Ontario zucchini season extends into October.

Recipe:

* Mexican Meatball Soup

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Tins tell tales of cookies' past

By Susan Sampson

Cookie lovers need a tin. Or two. Or 30.

That's how many Conrad Biernacki has amassed. He keeps his favourites on the kitchen counter.

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Solid Spinelli red is ridiculously well-priced

By Gordon Stimmell

I taste anywhere from 20 to 40 general list wines a week. Many are mediocre and I don't waste ink on these. Some are decent but brought down by small flaws in flavours and aromas, lack of balance, bitter or sour notes.

Wines:

* Spinelli 2006 Montepulciano D'Abruzzo $7.15 (Italy)

* Twin Fin 2005 Pinot Grigio $14.15 (California)

* Errazuriz Max Reserva 2005 Merlot $18.15 (Chile)

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Why chefs love farmers

Jennifer Bain reviews "Fresh: Seasonal Recipes Made With Local Foods."

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Toronto Star – October 24, 2007

Thanks to 300 recipes, pie takes the cake

Susan Sampson reviews Pie: 300 Tried-and-True Recipes For Delicious Homemade Pie.

Recipe:

* Butterscotch Tarts With Banana & Pistachio Brittle

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Say grilled cheese

By Susan Sampson

Beloved from childhood, the cheese-and-bread combo adds to its allure with grown-up flavours.

Recipes:

* Grilled Three-Cheese Sandwiches

* Grilled Cheese Burgers

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Back to our root vegetables

By Susan Sampson

In the fall, we always get back to our roots. This earthy dish should please vegetarians and meat eaters alike.

Recipe:

* Root Vegetable & Shiitake Hash

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Carve up a creepy melon

By Jennifer Bain

Put a new face on an illuminating tradition by introducing a new twist to the pumpkin patch.

Recipe:

* Watermelon-Raspberry Slush

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Delicious meets nutritious at Stop

By Jennifer Bain

It was time to see Maharaj in action. The Stop – in a community housing highrise on Davenport Rd. west of Lansdowne Ave. – has breakfast and lunch programs, a food bank, community garden and community kitchen.

Recipes:

* Pasta Shells With Spinach Purée

* Joshna's Beef Vindaloo

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`Little winery that could' gets boost from a Ghostbuster

By Gordon Stimmell

Today, we spotlight Ontario best buys. Our top value Ontario red is the Birchwood Estates Cab. Not many folks have heard of Birchwood, but winemaker Tom Green and his team, guided by tasting suggestions from actor and investor Dan Aykroyd, have put "the little winery that could" back on the proper wine path.

Wines:

* Cave Spring 2006 Riesling $13.95 (Ontario)

* Peninsula Ridge 2006 Sauvignon Blanc $15.15 (Ontario)

* Birchwood Estates 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon $14.95 (Ontario)

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Toronto Star – October 31, 2007

Caramels work magic in apple pie

Susan Sampson provides a recipe for Caramel Apple Pie.

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Samurai Night Live

By Jennifer Bain

To those who still think Japanese food is merely about raw fish and sushi, Iron Chef America celebrity chef Masaharu Morimoto has a few dishes he'd like you to try.

Recipe:

* Morimoto's Pork & Noodle Jumble

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Set a formal table with panache

Party planner Frances Bedford offers these tips on how to turn a formal dinner into an extravaganza.

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Hearty meatball dish

Susan Sampson provides a recipe for Italian Meatballs With Tomato & White Wine Braise.

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Rich lava cakes can be made ahead

Susan Sampson provides a recipe for Lava Cakes.