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And let us not forget the dreadfully low quality of most American veal amidst all this talk of beef. It took me a while to realize that, for all of its tenderness, the high-end white veal in this country has no discernible taste. In the late 1990s, I ate carne cruda, essentially a veal tartare of a sort from the Piemonte area of Italy, and was transported. I also learned that white veal does not exist in Italy. Evan, what is the future of veal in these United States?

Bill Klapp

bklapp@egullet.com

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In terms of veal production, I don't see any substantial changes on the

horizon. That's because if you change the method of production, you will

change the inherent qualities (e.g., taste profile, texture and color)

that are considered most desirable: pale color, mild taste, supple

texture. Veal has these characteristics because of the way it is raised:

restricted movement and a milk-based diet.

Free-range veal is very different in all respects -- it is darker in

color, has a distinctive taste and a pleasantly chewy-beefy texture.

This type of veal appeals to some consumers, but at this time a definite

minority. This may change over time, but not any time soon, in my

opinion.

One change I do see happening is a concerted effort to market veal to

wider consumer audiences to increase consumption. This has to do with

advertising, etc. but it also has to do with marketing new cuts from the

less used veal parts. Veal bacon and veal ribs are a couple of examples.

EL

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Bill, you might want to find a butcher or source for Grain Veal from

Quebec just returning to the market due to the US ban of Canadian

Beef product which was recently lifted. This is the closest product

to Sanato, the Piedmont version of Veal or Vittelone. I have used

the free range veal from Virginia and I find this product much less "beefy"

with more taste than "nature" veal yet still reasonable tender.

(I find nature Veal insipid). My restaurant "lives" on Veal and I have

had no, I repeat no complaints, only praise, since switching 2 years

ago. I particularly like Grain Rib Veal Chops which hold up to a grill and

oven much better than it's "white" cousin. Another benetfit" it's cheaper.

Evan, any comments?

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Thanks, Evan. But just as I feared-milk-fed, restricted-movement veal is considered politically incorrect by many, and thus shunned. It is also flavorless, and among the worst on earth in my opinion. and yet, you no doubt correctly observe that no change is likely, because that is the style of veal Americans have been conditioned to believe is best. We probably don't deserve Lobel's, Evan-Cryovac beef is probably plenty good for us!

Bill Klapp

bklapp@egullet.com

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