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Wolfert, "Slow Mediterranean Kitchen"


MatthewB

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Paula?

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

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I signed up to do an egullet Q&A in early October when the book is to be published. If you can't wait to know more about it, you can visit my website and read the publisher's weekly review.

Edited by Wolfert (log)

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

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It's here.

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

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Thanks very much. I didn't know about linking with egullet. I'm sure we can do that.

Your comment about slowing down is right on. I think fast cooking can be exciting, but it is also stressful and exacting. A few seconds off and you can ruin a dish. Slow cooking is relaxing and also more forgiving, since there's usually a decent margin of error.

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm drooling over the photos and recipes in this book. Here is what I want for dinner:

Avocado Sardine Toasts

Spicy Mussels with Herbs and Feta Cheese (I think it is the bowl* these are photographed in that makes this so very appealing!)

Slow Roasted Chicken with Sausage and Porcini Dressing

Artichoke and Orange Compote

and, of course, for dessert: Caneles de Bordeaux

but DAMN! Can't have it for dinner tonight ... perhaps, if I start cooking now, I will be eating it by, say, next Tuesday????!!!

These are just my first, glancing desires. Now I'm going to page 1 to begin my cover-to-cover read! But I'd better eat something first!

*Paula: are most of the serving dishes/utensils used in the photos items you have picked up on your travels? if so, you have some lovely pieces! do you also sell on ebay? :raz:

kit

"I'm bringing pastry back"

Weebl

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Kit: Your choices for a slow med dinner are terrific.

BTW:the photos were done in New York with the Saveur Magazine food stylist Julie Lee and photographer Christopher Hirsheimer. I couldn't get to New York for the shoot.

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

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  • 7 months later...

Two absolute musts from the book:

Pork coddled in olive oil - i made it on numerous occasions and last time even used the recipe for confiting whole quails, and then poached quail eggs in the same fragrant oil. :smile:

Herb jam with olives and lemon - very unusual, fragrant, beautiful color, great texture and taste, almost like a caviar. I served it with baguette and french artisan butter.

Edited by helenas (log)
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I just got a copy of the book and I can't wait to try most of the recipes, but I would especially like to try the following:

Artichoke and Orange Compote

Fall-Apart Lamb Shanks with Almond-Chocolate Picada

Butternut Squash and Potato Pie with Tomato, Mint, and Sheep's Milk Cheese

Corsican Cheesecake with Orange Marmalade

This cookbook is beautifully written and the photos make you want to cook everything right away.

I am a huge Paula Wolfert fan. I bought her Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco and have had a lot of fun over the years making recipes from that cookbook. Some of my favorites are:

Chicken Kdra with Almonds and Chickpeas

Couscous with Seven Vegetables in the Fez Manner

Chicken Stuffed with Rice and Raisins

I want to try Chicken stuffed with Almond Paste, but my fiance doesn't like marzipan. Paula, if you are reading this, how sweet is this recipe and does it taste like marzipan? He does like almonds.

Edited by Swisskaese (log)
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Two absolute musts from the book:

Pork coddled in olive oil - i made it on numerous occasions and last time even used the recipe for confiting whole quails, and then poached quail eggs in the same fragrant oil. :smile:

Herm jam with olives and lemon - very unusual, fragrant, beautiful color, great texture and taste, almost like a caviar. I served it with baguette and french artisan butter.

I have the book, but haven't had a chance to thoroughly read it, let alone cook from it. I'd be interested to hear other recomendations from those of you who HAVE cooked from it. We are starting to have our cool foggy nights-better suited for a long braise than fish on the grill! :smile:

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It is a wonderful book. We've enjoyed everything we've tried:

Melt-in-Your-Mouth Green Beans

Stimperata (Fresh Tuna with Green Olives, Capers, Celery & Mint)

Slow Oven-Steamed Salmon

Moroccan Tilefish with Sweet Onions (this was probably our least favorite-- it was too sweet for us, but we had no trouble eating it up)

Expatriate Roast Chicken with Lemon and Olives (We liked this as written, but since then I've sort of simplified this a few times to create a spicing guide to a more conventionally roasted chicken)

Slow Cooked Duck with Olives

Cassoulet

Our favorite was the casssoulet, but the slow-cooked duck was a VERY close second. We were pretty wowed by it. We also couldn't have been more pleased with the oven-steamed salmon and the Stimperata.

"I don't mean to brag, I don't mean to boast;

but we like hot butter on our breakfast toast!"

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[quote=. I want to try Chicken stuffed with Almond Paste, but my fiance doesn't like marzipan. Paula, if you are reading this, how sweet is this recipe and does it taste like marzipan? He does like almonds. quote

===================================

It is sweet dish, but it isn't as strong as marizpan. I suggest you try the fish stuffed with prunes first which is a winner then if he likes that one then slowly ease into the fish with almonds.

I want to say thanks to all for being so enthusiastic about the recipes in my latest book. Since you all seem to enjoy testing recipes, please let me know if you'd like to test some for the upcoming revision of my "The Cooking of Southwest France."

This book, which came out in 1981, won lots of awards, and most everyone loved the recipes, but (a Big BUT) it was written before moulard ducks, fresh foie gras, fresh porcini, pancetta and too lean pork were readily available.

I usually test my recipes three times, but this time I could use some help as the manuscript is due in late September. So here's my proposal: if you're interested in participating, I promise that your name will appear in the acknolwledgemnts in a paragraph devoted to the egulleteer commando group, and that I will send you a signed copy of the new edition of the book expressing my gratitude for your help.

If you are interested, please contact me by PM and I'll send you a short list of recipes to choose from. After you test the recipe, I'll need your honest opinion and any suggestions. I can't promise that I'll go along with your ideas, but will appreciate them and consider them. Thanks for your interest!

Paula

Edited by Wolfert (log)

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

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Wowser! Paula... That is truly an inspired idea. I am currently scrambling to see if my collection includes this book. I have bought so many books lately, including several of yours, that I am behind in my reading, and testing. If I can add any value, you will hear from me. Thank you for the opportunity.

Linda LaRose aka "fifi"

"Having spent most of my life searching for truth in the excitement of science, I am now in search of the perfectly seared foie gras without any sweet glop." Linda LaRose

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Thanks, Fifi.

Actually, this is no free lunch. It isn't easy to find muscovy or mulard ducks nor is it that easy to find cepes in mid june, thus my hysterical call for help.

Actually, after reading all your postings I think you would like this book.

It has been put out of print by my publishers, but it is still available here and there. You'll probably find it at the library or via bookfinders.com or half.com.

“C’est dans les vieux pots, qu’on fait la bonne soupe!”, or ‘it is in old pots that good soup is made’.

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I use your Slow Med book as a bible. Most of the winter I subsisted on your Herb Jam with Olives and Lemons, incorporating all manner of bitter green: kale, chard, arugula etc. Also had great fun with your stuffed Turkish flatbreads. However today I bought (my first ever) pork loin. I have been wondering if I could ever make a crispy skin myself and tomorrow seemed a perfect excuse: after two Museum of Natural History shows (Frogs and Jordan) why not a picnic?

While possessed of neither spit nor rack nor thermomitor, I made a salt-sugar-rosemary-thyme-bayleaf-fennel seed brine and into it have submerged my roast to chill. In the am, Ill rub first with your orange zest and garlic paste and then roast (I'm guessing racks are necessary?) with vidalias, shallots, garlic, maybe a small red potatoe or two. I'm not a fan of fruit with meats and will rather serve this cold with chilled roast asparagus, a fennel/radiccio salad and a Catalan chevre. White Burgundy, maybe red Bandol.

My question: Wells suggests 500 for 20-30 min to get the skin crisped, then another 20 min per lb at 350; baste often she says with the brine. You suggest flour, 5 minutes in hot oil, 45 on 350, turn and another 15. What do you think of her two different temps, verses the flour and then steady 325 you suggest? Would you have said baste with brine but for the compotes?

Thanks and best to you,

E

Edited by Elissa (log)

Drinking when we are not thirsty and making love at all seasons: That is all there is to distinguish us from the other Animals.

-Beaumarchais

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This is a fantastic book, a joy to read and to look at. Here are some recipes I enjoyed very much:

Pork stewed with Prunes and onions

Pork loin with dried fruit compote

Orange flavored beans with pork

Cassoulet

Double Cooked chicken Marrakesh style

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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  • 2 weeks later...

While wandering through Ollie's (picture a bizarre blend of flea market, Oddjob, and Wal-Mart) the other day, I stumbled upon their discount cookbook rack, and lo and behold, a copy of Slow Mediterranean Kitchen was sitting on it for only $10. Well, this was a deal I couldn't pass up so I grabbed it, and have spent all day drooling over the recipes.

I have to admit that I can't wait to try to cook some of these as written, and I will definately report back after I try a few out, this thread has given me much enthusiasm.

He don't mix meat and dairy,

He don't eat humble pie,

So sing a miserere

And hang the bastard high!

- Richard Wilbur and John LaTouche from Candide

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  • 4 months later...
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