Improving my cooking skills (2003)

[SethG]

What a great post, marie-louise.

I think there's a sidebar next to the BB recipe in Jules et Jim in which Julia gives you the option of skipping the cheesecloth and straining the sauce instead. Personally, I thought the cheesecloth route made for an easier time than straining would have. I also noticed in Julia's 1961 BB recipe that she too asks you to flour the meat before browning. But that edition of the recipe does not ask you to add butter/flour at the end. Maybe you should do one or the other, but not both?

Your experimental approach to these recipes is an inspiration. I'm going to try to be a little more bold in that regard myself.

[MatthewB]

Yes, great post, marie-louise!

You jogged my memory. (I'm starting to think my posts suck.)

-- Bruce Aidell = Why did I forgot to check that book? I had it & everything I've done from it has been wonderful.

-- Salt = Whilst reading Laurie Colwin's "Home Cooking" last night, she mentioned something like, "Beef stew never needs salt." Held true with this dish.

-- Salt pork = I used pancetta, too. Picked up a half-pound end for $1.50.

-- Cheesecloth thing = I noticed Julia's note about not using it, too. I almost went that way when I realized, like you, that I'd lose the lardons. And, actually, the cheesecloth packet seemed like less work, too. Glad I used the cheesecloth.

-- Beurre Manie = FWIW, I liked how that worked as a thickener. New technique learned for me.

-- Wine = Adding the wine at the very end was a big improvement over previous beef stews that I've made. Another new technique learned.

Thanks, marie-louise, and keep coming with your posts!!!

[NeroW]

Seth, congratulations. I also enjoyed it that you took time to post to eGullet.

If I ever have a baby ( ), I'll probably delay hospitalization as long as possible, glued to eGullet.

[Dave the Cook]

I will definitely use the cheesecloth from now on. I didn't find it the least bit troublesome, and it really kept the stew neat, if that makes any sense.

I hadn't considered the salt angel, but I think you're right. The only salt I used was on the meat prior to browning.

I used to flour the meat before browning, until someone (was it Jeff Smith?) pointed out that when you do that, you're browning the flour, not the meat. It's a lost opportunity to add beefy flavor. Another thing that this dish reminded me of was the amazing way that pork fat has with browning. You just can't get the same depth of color and flavor by using vegetable oils. (In the South, salt pork is a Major Food Group, so I had no trouble procuring it. Finding pancetta, on the other hand, is like trying to get Dover sole in Grand Rapids. )

I didn't add the extra wine, and you guys are making me sorry for it. Next time I do a long braise, I'm going to try it.

*********

Sole Meuniere? I'll check my supplier, but if real sole isn't available, or it's too pricy, I'm thinking rainbow or brook trout.

[Malawry]

At L'academie, we made flounder meuniere. It's not bad. Flat fish fabrication is a useful skill.

We got a Dover sole in once. Chef Peter prepared it and then we all dove in. It rocked. But we never handled it ourselves. *sigh*

[Priscilla]

I am so digging this. Cooking Rashomon. What will meuniere bring?

And utmost congratulations, Seth and Robin and new little Nate... babies are exciting!

[hannahcooks]

I also meant to say before that the mashed potatoes were good with the Bourguignon sauce.  And I am not a mashed potato fan, so I never make them.  But wasn't Julia's recipe kind of restrained?  Just a little butter and milk.  I'm sure each of you has a dozen richer recipes for creamy, delicious mashed potatoes.  What happened here?  We're talking about Julia Child, dark lady of the Butterdome.  Why so cheap with the butter here?

First, congratulations, Seth!

I've noticed that all of Julia's J&J recipes are much, much less butter/cream heavy than those in Mastering The Art. Or at least, all the one's I've tried.

[snowangel]

MatthewB, I saw that CIA at home book yesterday while my wife and I were pacing around a bookstore waiting for her labor to get serious.

I love this and wonder how many passed that stage in a food-related endeavor! Valient of Robin. I spent two of my labors (pre-serious) cooking and stockpiling soup and meals for the recovery (with the other one, I just stayed at the office and made money). But, when it got serious, I knit.

But, back to the topic at hand. My local market has dover sole on sale, and he said they would get a fresh shipment tomorrow night. So, that it will be. I've had plenty of experience taking care of whole fish.

It's just me and the kids, and they love green beans, which have been beautiful lately, so green beans it will be. I will also do roasted carrots, because I love them.

Dessert will be something appley. Any suggestions? I have a boatload of Haralsons, courtesy of my friend whose family owns an apple orchard.

On the duck note, Julia and Jacques were on PBS yesterday at 1:30 pm, so I put my feet up, had a cup o' coffee and watched them do duck. We need to do duck. That show is a real treasure. I make a point of watching it every Wednesday.

[Dave the Cook]

Dessert will be something appley.  Any suggestions?

Fried pie.

[marie-louise]

I read the recipe for the sole this morning. I just want to caution people to be careful not to overcook their fish. I've never cooked a whole sole-that may indeed need 4-5 minutes-but what I think of as a "thin fillet" needs more like a minute MAXIMUM a side. (She discusses cooking times in Sauteing on page 245.) I think I am going to try this w/ some sand dabs. They've showed up in the fish market the last year or so, but I've never cooked them at home. Also, I think I'd make the sauce first before I started the fish (or get my husband to make it while I cook the fish.) I'd be worried the fish would either get cold, even on a warmed plate, or overcook, if I made the sauce second.

Many years ago I took a cooking class series in San Francisco from a woman named Judith Ets-Hokins. She said that sauteed fish w/ Buerre Blanc was one of the hardest dishes to make well, as there is no room for error. Overcook the fish, burn the sauce, use fish or butter that isn't fresh-there's nowhere to hide your mistakes. But cook perfectly fresh fish perfectly well, and sauce it with a wonderful simple sauce, and there will be nothing better. This is a real "Chez Panisse-style" dish!

I'm still trying to think of a vegetable. A baked tomato would be perfect in the summer, but they are all gone for the season and I can't bear those hothouse ones. Something green, but what? Broccoli seems too strong, and asparagus and green beans are out of season as well. Sauteed spinach, maybe?

PS I forgot to add that I didn't make the Creme Brulee. I'm not much of a dessert person, although I occasionally order Creme Brulee in restaurants. More than wanting to learn how to make it well at home, I have a sudden urge to learn to operate a blowtorch, so I will have to loop back to your descriptions at a future time.

Edited November 7, 2003 by marie-louise (log)

[guajolote]

Could someone who has both the J&J book and larousse compare the sole muniere and rice pilaf recipes and tell me if there are any major differences? I know the cooking time in Larousse for the fish is way too long.

I'm making snow peas to serve on the side.

[hjshorter]

Sorry Dean, my Larousse is in a box, and I don't have another bookbook with this recipe in it. But I'm happy that you're joining us.

Baking is a good treatment for less than stellar tomatoes. Marie-Louise, where are you that green beans are not in season?

[Dave the Cook]

Last night, I saw at decent prices: green tomatoes (last wave of the Florida crop), most greens, snow peas, asparagus, pumpkins, yellow and green beans.

I'm not really a big fan of snow peas, but the texture and color contrast is very tempting. I did stuffed tomatoes the other night, so that's probably not on.

I'm transcribing the meuniere recipe for Varmint, and I'll send it to my other brother Dean as well. If anybody else needs it, let me know.

[maggiethecat]

Could someone who has both the J&J book and larousse compare the sole muniere and rice pilaf recipes and tell me if there are any major differences? I know the cooking time in Larousse for the fish is way too long.

I'm making snow peas to serve on the side.

J and J: 4-5 minutes per side.

Larousse (ed. 1962) "Season and flour the sole and cook in butter in the frying pan." No time given. You may have a later, greater Larousse.

[guajolote]

Could someone who has both the J&J book and larousse compare the sole muniere and rice pilaf recipes and tell me if there are any major differences? I know the cooking time in Larousse for the fish is way too long.

I'm making snow peas to serve on the side.

J and J: 4-5 minutes per side.

Larousse (ed. 1962) "Season and flour the sole and cook in butter in the frying pan." No time given. You may have a later, greater Larousse.

my larousse has 6-7 minutes per side, they must have found a sole 1.5" thick

heather, get it out of its box now! that's cookbook abuse!

[Varmint]

Asparagus? Artichokes?

[hjshorter]

Asparagus sounds good. There's a recipe in J&J but we'll probably just steam it. And I don't think it matters what pilaf recipe we all use. It was just in the back of my head as something we don't do a lot.

Larousse is in a box because we are considering putting our house on the market. We're paring life down to the essentials.

One essential bit about the brown butter sauce - make sure the butter is softened before you put it in the pan. I have learned the hard way that it's possible to burn the sauce even before all of the butter is melted. And we make sure that the lemon, capers, and parsley are in pinch bowls before the fish goes in.

[Varmint]

Larousse is in a box because we are considering putting our house on the market.  We're paring life down to the essentials. 

Yeah, they're moving down here because there aren't enough NC eGulleteers and too many DC ones. Plus, we have good barbecue. Oh, and our clubs are as good as the ones in DC.

[Varmint]

If I could ever find them on sale, I'd really like to learn how to do more with artichokes. They're Mrs. Varmint's favorite!!!

[hjshorter]

Larousse is in a box because we are considering putting our house on the market.  We're paring life down to the essentials.

Yeah, they're moving down here because there aren't enough NC eGulleteers and too many DC ones. Plus, we have good barbecue. Oh, and our clubs are as good as the ones in DC.

You wish.

We are considering moving to Northern Virginia, although it's crawling with Republicans.

Actually, Raleigh's clubs are better than DC's. And the barbecue...I won't even go there.

I love artichokes too and have neve bought them because I'm so intimidated by the prep. I had to learn in culinary school but have repressed the memory.

[Varmint]

And artichokes would go well with the mild sole.

[MatthewB]

In the spirit of this thread--learning new techniques--should we be seriously considering an artichoke dish?

[Dave the Cook]

And artichokes would go well with the mild sole.

If you've never made your own art hearts, you might find an artichoke pretty damned interesting. And if you cheat and buy fillets instead of engaging in flat fish fabrication, there's time for the prep. Nothing about it is hard; it's just time consuming.

edit: cross-posted with Matthew.

Edited November 7, 2003 by Dave the Cook (log)

[hjshorter]

True, true.

I will check out the artichoke situation today. They aren't in season, unfortunately.

[guajolote]

artichokes are going to clash with the nice sancerre I was planning on serving. I'll try to make them anyway though.