Improving my cooking skills (2003)

[MatthewB]

I'm for the bourguignon & challenging veggie dishes.

Seth, as soon as my outside weekend work ends--read: leaves stop falling or it turns into winter--I'll be working on my charcuterie. I'll be happy to work with you. My plan is to usually cut the recipes into half-quart amounts.

This weekend or next?

(Looks like I'm doing a bouillabaisse for Guajolote on Saturday. )

[Malawry]

The boulanger potatoes we made at school cooked for about an hour. You definitely don't want them swimming in stock, that would explain your results.

Boulanger potatoes are like a scrumptious spooge of fondant potatoes and gratin potatoes. I haven't had any of these dishes in some time and now you're making me think of making them. I did buy potatoes at the farm market yesterday...

[snowangel]

I'd have to agree with most of the comments above. I did not use the required amount of stock in the potatoes (it just seemed like way too much), so mine were absolutely wonderful.

And, the chicken dish was, I agree, better today. I think this would be a good company dish that a person could made a day ahead and reheat.

As a side note, roast chicken holds up much better if you save the fat and pour it over the chicken before putting it in the fridge (cheater confit?).

Yes to the bourguignon and more challenging veggie dishes.

[hjshorter]

OK good! Bourgonionne it is. What sort of sides would everyone like? The garnish for the meat is pearl onions and mushrooms. I vote for mashers to put the yummy gravy on, and the glazed carrots/turnips.

Would anyone like to try a dessert too?

[Dave the Cook]

I did not use the required amount of stock in the potatoes (it just seemed like way too much), so mine were absolutely wonderful. 

I'm still pursuing my dish-size theory. What did you use?

As a side note, roast chicken holds up much better if you save the fat and pour it over the chicken before putting it in the fridge (cheater confit?).

Oh my. I'll have to try this.

I vote for mashers to put the yummy gravy on, and the glazed carrots/turnips.

Works for me, unless we want to pursue Jacques and Jules down the rice path.

Would anyone like to try a dessert too?

Yes. This is a very weak area for me.

[SethG]

Heather, that sounds great. I'm fine with a delay in the pate, and I need to learn more about vegetable dishes. I'd propose a dessert but I still don't have the damn book. I know, whose fault is that?

I do want to say before we get much further that I'd like to see duck on our agenda soon. I've wanted to roast a whole duck for I don't know how long. I think I recall seeing such a recipe in Jules et Jim. I've sauteed duck breasts, which is too easy even to talk about, but nothing else.

Before we do the beef, someone's got to tell me how to find a good, reasonably priced Burgundy! Craig Camp's recent thread on the subject was of no use, unless you have a secret producer friend near the Swiss border. If I got nothing else out of the G for the rest of my days, I would be more than satisfied if I could only drink good, reasonably priced Burgundy.

[Dave the Cook]

I don't know if there's a recipe in J&J, and I know it's a cliche and everything, but how many of us have actually made Creme Brulee? I've done it only once, a number of years ago.

[hjshorter]

I do want to say before we get much further that I'd like to see duck on our agenda soon.  I've wanted to roast a whole duck for I don't know how long.  I think I recall seeing such a recipe in Jules et Jim.  I've sauteed duck breasts, which is too easy even to talk about, but nothing else.

There's also a duck and parsnip saute that looked delicious. I'm embarrassed to say that I have never cooked a duck at home, not even duck breasts.

You sautee the duck pieces (another chance to dismember poultry) for 20-25 minutes until all the beautiful fat renders out, then put veggies in to cook in the fat. Take out of duck fat and serve.

I don't know what to tell you about reasonably priced Burgundy. There's none around here either.

Does everyone have Mastering the Art? Jules et Jim (LOL Seth) is light on dessert recipes, so we could supplement with recipes from that.

[Dave the Cook]

Before we do the beef, someone's got to tell me how to find a good, reasonably priced Burgundy!  Craig Camp's recent thread on the subject was of no use, unless you have a secret producer friend near the Swiss border.

Word.

Maybe Matthew can help us, if not with Burgundy, with an alternative from somewhere else that uses the same grapes.

Also ditto on the duck. I had my eye on Julia's Duck Deconstruction (the name of the recipe escapes me). You get a bit of several techniques in there, though come to think of it, roasting might not be one of them. But I'm OK with roasting, too.

[SethG]

I've also been meaning to add that the picture from J & J of Julia hammering that cleaver into a turkey (it's on the back of the dust jacket) cracks me up every time I see it.

[guajolote]

i believe that David Rosengarten, on his "taste" tv show, said that he uses beaujalais for his beef burgundy. that should be much easier on the budget.

[MatthewB]

Maybe Matthew can help us, if not with Burgundy, with an alternative from somewhere else that uses the same grapes.

A bargain-priced Burgundy would probably run $15-20 US.

Is that a decent range? Or should I seek out something from Carneros, the Russian River Valley, or Oregon, perhaps?

G's suggestion of a beaujolais would be absolutely fine, too. (Heck, I might even use a lightly-oaked cab!)

[Varmint]

Although this crazy North Carolinian hasn't read through this thread until today AND although this crazy North Carolinian's wife doesn't eat red meat (thus, I'll do the other dishes), I'd like to join in to some extent if permitted. I may have missed some of the ground rules, but I'll fake it for awhile.

Oh, and I have made creme brulee several times. Cooks Illustrated recipe actually works well for the custard.

[snowangel]

I did not use the required amount of stock in the potatoes (it just seemed like way too much), so mine were absolutely wonderful. 

I'm still pursuing my dish-size theory. What did you use?

As a side note, roast chicken holds up much better if you save the fat and pour it over the chicken before putting it in the fridge (cheater confit?).

Oh my. I'll have to try this.

For the potatoes, I used a pie plate; I have one that is pottery that must be about a 10.5", and the sides are higher than your average pyrex one, but not really high. I don't have a gratin pan because this one is so pretty.

Yes, the fat does help keep left-over roast chicken less dried and stringy. I'm betting it would be really good augmented with bacon grease.

I, too, would like to try duck. Perhaps that should be next on the list after beef.

And, I'll dig out mastering the art and look at desserts.

[MatthewB]

I'd like to join in to some extent if permitted.  I may have missed some of the ground rules, but I'll fake it for awhile. 

Oh, and I have made creme brulee several times.  Cooks Illustrated recipe actually works well for the custard.

Please join in, Varmint!

The only ground-rules are the unspoken, uncommon sense ones with which you're already familiar & obey without effort.

Now if we do creme brulee do I need one of those mini-flame throwers or can last-minute broiling work well?

(Also, if we do duck, please aim for two-week notice as I'll have to mail-order. And everyone please do duck confit with me after the roasted duck as I'll order two ducks, etc.)

[Priscilla]

Well this is all very inspiring. If nobody minds, I would like to join in after the temp drops below 90 degrees and the air clears of wildfire smoke and I get the relevant book.

Doesn't sound like I've got much to commend, IknowIknowIknow.

However, I DO have a barn with a PA in it.

[hjshorter]

Right on! Dean and Priscilla, you are more than welcome to join in. Chicken and fish are OK for Mrs V, right? What about duck? J & J has lots of fish recipes.

Matthew, why do you have to mail order duck?

To recap: this week, Beef Bourgonionne (or however it's spelled ), mashers, green veggie of your choice, and creme brulee. Sound good?

[Dave the Cook]

Matthew, why do you have to mail order duck?

'cause they flew South two or three weeks ago?

Welcome, Priscilla and Varmint!

[Dave the Cook]

Now if we do creme brulee do I need one of those mini-flame throwers or can last-minute broiling work well?

Hmmm . . . which answer do you want?

[marie-louise]

I've never made duck, and where or where is that recent thread where someone told me a perfect way to make it. Duck would be good.

I've made that turnip/carrot recipe a few times-it is a good recipe for honing technique because knowing when to add the turnips takes a little practice, otherwise they turn to mush before the carrots are done. I've also used that technique to make plain carrots many many times. It's great!

I never make artichokes, I don't know why, they are always available. Those recipes look good.

Haven't made anything en papillote for many years-that could be fun. Sole Meuniere is also good to master-no room for error. It's either just done or it's way way overdone.

I've made that Steak Diane a few times; would love to make it along with all of you.

The whole roasted leg of lamb appeals.

Can you tell I haven't made dinner yet ?

[adoxograph]

For a vegetarian version of this week, I'll skip out on the Beef (no one will be around to eat it) and sub in the Gratin of Eggplant, Tomato and Zucchini - pg 201 of J & J.

Won't sub the Creme Brulee for anything, because it's creme brulee and therefore it is always welcome in my home.

[MatthewB]

I'd go with a pair of sturdy scissors that can be disassembled for cleaning (like these). They won't cut through turkey bones, but neither will poultry shears. They're just fine for chicken, and they're only $20. Wusthoff also makes a pair in their GP line that are $30, I think. The poultry shears are considerably more expensive, they'e a pain to clean, and they're always springing open at inappropriate times.

A bit off-topic but I've done worse . . .

I looked in the Chef's Catalog that appeared in the mailbox recently.

Wustof has a cool pair but $140 marked down to $80.

Yet the catalog lists a (nearly identical) pair from Chef'sChoice with a sale price of $40.

Thoughts?

[MatthewB]

Catch-up . . .

Yes, Varmint & Priscilla, right on for joining us! (And adoxograph have you been welcomed to eGullet let alone this thread? )

As far as duck, no good local source of which I'm aware. And I need an excuse to order from the Sonoma County farm from which French Laundry, etc. buy their ducks.

And, Dave, I'm just not feeling a purchase of that blow-torch. (I think I'd rather save for a chain-saw. The back 40 needs more work.)

[maggiethecat]

And, Dave, I'm just not feeling a purchase of that blow-torch.  (I think I'd rather save for a chain-saw.  The back 40 needs more work.)

Oh, Matthew...live a little, my Brother! For thirty bucks, a kitchen blowtorch will the be the most fun you've had since your parents left you alone with a book of matches when you were five!

Apart from all the truly cool cooking stuff it does--think, your own mini-salamander!--we use it to loosen stuck candles in our (wrought iron) chandelier, light the new candles, light the grill...light cigarettes when we can't find a lighter...

Edited October 28, 2003 by maggiethecat (log)

[adoxograph]

Oh yeah, and speaking of creme brulee, for those of you who keep back issues - October 1995 Gourmet magazine did a "Last Touch" on the dessert. According to them, brown sugar gave best results when using the broiler for caramelization, raw sugar when you've got a blow torch.

I just like fire.

Thanks for the welcome, Matthew! :)