All change at L'Ortolan

[Andy Lynes]

Daniel Galmiche, formerly of Michelin starred Harvey's restaurant in Bristol has taken over the kitchens at L'Ortolan from Alan Murchison. He's offering a limited a la carte and gourmand menu until the full launch on 23 August. I'll be heading there next week and will report back.

Restaurant website.

[Paul Bell]

Another chef that did not last long then!

Had a look at the website, noted that it is a limited menu, don't seem to have limited their prices though, menu gourmand £49, not much of an introductory offer

Paul

[Andy Lynes]

No price for the reduced a la carte, which is in fact just a choice from the gourmand. I am hoping that it won't be full price.

Murchison lasted less than 2 years. I think Galmiche is really going to have to do something special to make the place work.

[Andy Lynes]

Despite a 9 course feast in Cheltenham on Wednesday night (details of which will eventualy emerge soon on The Daily Gullet, so watch that space) I girded my loins and some how forced myself to eat at L'Ortolan on Thursday. I had cleverly allowed myself to be plied with Calvados the night before which really does help the digestion I have discoverd, and was therefore ready for Daniel Galmiche's 6 course menu gourmand as it appears here.

The restaurant has been open 1 week with Galmiche at the helm. Over Calvados (you can tell I'm very concerned about my digestive system can't you?) in the conservatory bar area, he told me that he is working with a less than full brigade, no pastry chef at the moment and is therefore offering just a menu gourmand. He is expecting to have a full complement of chefs very soon for the launch of his a la carte, lunch and gourmand menus, prices of which are yet to be decided.

He also told me that there are plans to make L'ortolan a restaurant with rooms, open a cookery school, a brasserie by Shinfield Green and win back 2 Michelin stars. Although we chatted only briefly, I got the sense that Galmiche is a determined man and that he is not the sort to blow hot air. It will be interesting to see how things develop.

Given this is a "soft" opening, it would be unfair to provide a detailed review of the food or pass judgement on the operation on the basis of just one meal, albeit a very good meal. Its a great building which they have spent a lot of money on (I was told that the investment so far is approx £3mill), lovely dining room and the service is good; formal, but friendly and welcoming. The wine list has some excellent value bottles on it starting at £14.00, with a lot of choice below £30.00. Very unusual for this sort of operation. I had a very juicy and gluggable Omrah Chardonnay from Plantagenet for £18.00, a wine my local wine dealer stocks for £6.99 a mark up of approximately 250% which is livable with I think.

I'd like to go back once Galmiche has had time to settle in, get the full carte up and running and show what he can really do. Very early days yet, but it's looking very promising.

(BTW Murchison is now chef at Chewton Glenn).

[Scott]

The wine list has some excellent value bottles on it starting at £14.00, with a lot of choice below £30.00. Very unusual for this sort of operation. I had a very juicy and gluggable Omrah Chardonnay from Plantagenet for £18.00, a wine my local wine dealer stocks for  £6.99 a mark up of approximately 250% which is livable with I think.   

Andy,

wine is central to a good meal for me, I hate the fact that my average spend per bottle in restaurants is 2/3 of what I spend at home. i.e. I can't bring myself to pay silly prices for poor booze.

This part of your post reminded me how complacent we have become in regards to beverage prices in restaurants, we just accept that will be merciless ripped off and we should say thank you.

I am not having a go at you, but i do find it funny how over time we tolerate the intolerable:

£7 for £18 + service or £20 roughly, and have been conditioned to say thank you like monkeys.

I agree however that this probably a reasonable deal under the circumstances, it's just the circumstances that trouble me...

cheers

[Andy Lynes]

I'm sure we've been through this before (can anyione find the thread, I'm 30 minutes late for an appointment at the moment!), but yes, I agree with you. You have to take my comments in the context of the relatively high cost of wine in restaurants. It's not ideal for the punter, but it's nice to see somewhere upmarket like L'ortolan making an effort. Given what the competition do, they probably don't need to.

[Paul Bell]

Andy

a few questions bearing in mind that Alan Murchison was head chef not owner, it is owned by a venture capital type thingy people, I believe.

what happened to the previous kitchen brigade?

as L'Ortolan was 'done up' not that long ago I assume the £3 million quid was spent prior to the post John Burton-Race re-opening and has not just been spent.

the 2 stars bit is interesting, why 2 and not 3? where is the expectation that 2 stars are achievable, when Harvey's in Bristol only ever got one (not being harsh, just sounds like PR b*****ks to me).

it seemed promising when Alan Murchison took over!!

Chef's can't trust 'em.

Paul

[Andy Lynes]

Previous brigade went to Chewton Glen with Murchison I believe, Galmiche has brought in his own people.

The £3mill is the money spent duing Murchison's time. A huge improvement on the JBR period in my opinion.

Galmiche said he wanted to bring 2 stars back to the restaurant, i.e . regain what JBR had won. As to why 2 not 3, I didn't ask, but that seems a reasonable ambition to me, maybe something he has agreed with the owners.

It was a very informal chat and I don't think the chef was particularly in PR mode. Seemed like a very nice chap, although I could hear him shouting at his chefs from the dining room during dinner, so maybe he not a total pussy cat.

[Duncan]

In case anyone is thinking of going to l'Ortolan, you had better make it sooner rather than later. They are closing after 21st February 2004 for 6 months to build a new dining room.

[Andy Lynes]

They're actually increasing the covers from 55 - 85 which is quite surprising given the cost of a meal there. I wonder if they will fill the place on a regular basis.

[Andy Lynes]

The title of this thread still applies according to the Caterer. A troubled site since the departure of John Burton Race.

[Jon Tseng]

... and arguably before his arrival too!

[Andy Lynes]

Didn't Nico call it the "curse of Shinfield"?

[Gavin Jones]

The gloomy bycicling velvet undergound chef & the celebrated NY comedian?

No wonder that didn't last.

[Andy Lynes]

Apparently her drunken, impromptu renditions of "Janitor of Lunacy" at the end of every evening didn't do her any favours. If she had bowed to public pressure and sung "I'll Be Your Mirror" instead, things could have turned out very differently.

[Marlyn4k]

After Alan Murchison left Chewton Glenn so abrubly over alledged 'work culture differences' I heard he has been cooking in a Gastropub with a view to buying his old stomping ground L'Ortolan....any news on this?

Edited July 25, 2004 by Marlyn4k (log)

[MobyP]

Can you give us some background on him? Also - which pub and where?

[Marlyn4k]

Alan Murchison was originally a sous chef at Le Manoir before running the catering school for them. He then moved to L'Ortolan in Shinfield (after John Burton Race went to the Landmark) where he gained his first Michelin Star after 18 months. There was then a falling out with the owners and he went to work at Chewton Glenn about 8 months ago.

I contacted Chewton Glenn last month and they said he had left them soon after joining.

Two weeks ago I was eating in Berkeley Square Cafe and got chatting to Benoit Gueret, the Sommelier, formerly of L'Ortolan (and 1837). I asked him where Alan had got to and he said he was cooking in a Gastropub somewhere before looking to buy out L'Ortolan....

As much as I know

[tony h]

Alan Murchison was originally a sous chef at Le Manoir

ran the cookery school when I was there. cocky little git - but he can cook & teach

[Marlyn4k]

At last L'Ortolan has reopened and sure enough Alan Murchison is back in the kitchen. Went for lunch today - 3 courses for £21, they do a three courses for dinner £29 as well.

Had the set lunch, there were a few items with supplements - tasting plate of duck starter £5 supplement, an a la carte Lamb dish £10 and sorbets £5.

I was pleasantly surprised that at £21 there were canapes - spiced aubergine mousse with dipping toast (but yuk), a pork based nibble and something else which I forget.

The amuse was a cup of flavoursome and comforting sweet potato soup

Started with the duck tasting plate which consited of confit, topped with foie gras (terrine) rounded off with foie gras jelly, brioche on the side; on the other side of the plate were slithers of smoked duck on top of some pickled cabbage and in between some cinnamon spiced cherries. A rich dish indeed - reminded me of something I once ate at Pied a terre.

Main course was a generous mound of untuous braised lamb shoulder on a bed of crushed garlic potato, can't remember the what the bits and pieces of other vegetables were that bathed in some broth. Again quite rich and big on quantity.

A pre pud of lemon creme brulee.

To round it off came a large chololate souffle with pistachio ice cream.

The chocolates included a chocolate covered sorbet, a maccaroon and a couple of others.

Found a red 200 Lirac for £24 that was fiarly light but eminently drinkable.

If Alan has not come back too late I'm sure the Michelin Star is safe - clinical cooking, generous portions, not over complicated nor over ambitious - does what he does very well. Clean flavours, natural combinations and no fuss.

[Andy Lynes]

The UK guide goes to press October. As L'ortolan has been closed for a good part of the year so far, I can't imagine they will be able to retain their star. Daniel Galmiche ran a very reduced menu for an introductory period and then the place closed for the refurb a few months after he had got going. Not much for the guide to assess the restaurant's consistancy by is it?

[Marlyn4k]

We had a chat with Alan afterwards and he said that Michelin had been in contact to find out when they were opening etc, he thought that they would make up their minds by November (??) so was hopeful to keep it partly on past track record.

He had apparantly been in negotiation with the owner of the building since January - the menu was cheaper than when he left and contained some of his old stalwart dishes. Part of the reason for his leaving originally was because the owner (internet millionaire) was enforcing 7 days a week opening and pushing the prices up. The deal he's negotiated is effectively a lease so he has overall control of everything about the restaurant along with his busioness partner Abbey (ex Manoir - looks after front of house).

[Marlyn4k]

Hi

Had dinner at L'ortolan last night...£29 three course set. They showed me their 2 page spread in caterer, I had already seen the bit in restaurant magazine.

They tell me that Jan Moir and Sylvia somebody from the independent both ate (separately) there in the last week...

[Marlyn4k]

Well the sylvia somebody was actually Caroline Stacey...pleasant little review.

And Jan Moir...a massacre - she even went back for a second try to attempt to be positive; in the end reads like an obitury. Very sad.

[balex]

Well the sylvia somebody was actually Caroline Stacey...pleasant little review.

And Jan Moir...a massacre - she even went back for a second try to attempt to be positive; in the end reads like an obitury.  Very sad. 

←

I just read the Jan Moir review and .. well .. Jura wines are meant to be oxidized, so it's a bit unfair on that point. I haven't read her stuff before -- does she know anything about food or wine in general?