Finalizing Paris plans...

[tighe]

My wife and I are going to Paris the first ten days in September and, as always, eGullet has been a tremendous resource for informing our restaurant choices. My thanks to all of you active contributors to the ‘France’ board. I’m hoping you can help me with a couple final questions.

I had hoped to at least attempt to make reservations at L’Astrance, but failed to think through how the August closure might affect the timing. Have they already taken reservations for September and I’m out of luck, or will they take them once they reopen? I’ve tried calling the restaurant and simply get the message that they’re closed for the month. I imagine that I will run into the same issue with some of the other places I was hoping to go to as well.

Also, does anyone have thoughts on Le Pre-Catelan? It’s appealing to me because of the setting, proximity to my hotel and favorable comments in a number of guides, but I’ve read posts on eG and elsewhere implying that the quality can be very uneven? Would it be a mistake to go or do I just need to have realistic expectations? Thanks.

Edited to add another question:

I'm reasonably conversant in French, but don't actually know the correct phrasing in asking to make a reservation. Does one 'prendre une reservation' or 'faire une reservation'?

Edited August 5, 2003 by tighe (log)

[cheeseandchocolate]

As for the reservation question: I've always said either, "Je voudrais reserver une table pour [deux? trois? however many] personnes" or "Je voudrais faire une reservation." In the latter case, they will likely ask you how many "couverts" you need: that's how many place settings.

I haven't been to Le Pre Catalan, so I can't speak for it, but Astrance is really something--inventive, perfectly-executed dishes, top-notch service. Do whatever you can to get in there.

You didn't mention it, but I have to add that my *favorite* spot is Le Repaire de Cartouche. It's in the 11th arrondissement, sandwiched between rue Amelot and blvd Beaumarchais and with entrances off both streets. It is closed for the entirety of August, but try reserving or stopping in when you arrive. It's a neighborhoody spot that's very popular and highly regarded among local AND traveling foodies. The restaurant's two rooms are wood-beamed and warm, with an authentic old-fashioned feel and excellent, classy service. The food is spot-on, with a menu that changes daily. It's in a different category that Le Pre Catalan, but if you want an out-of-this-world neighborhood spot, this is it. My most memorable meal there was in May 2002 (the last time I was in Paris), with my father. I started with warm asparagus spears on a bed of chopped fresh herbs, EVOO, and fleur de sel, and my father started with marinated fresh sardines propped next to a small mache salad and a mound of creamy sheep's milk cheese. I moved on to EVOO-marinated filets of rouget (red mullet) on a hash of eggplant and kalamata olives; I'm at a loss as to what my dad had. We both finished the meal with hot-from-the-oven individual rhubarb clafoutis dusted with powdered sugar. Mmmmm. And they bring delicious fresh country bread to the table when you sit down, along with a little pot of house-made rillettes. And if you order the terrine, they bring the entire thing out to your table and leave it for you to take as much as you like. I miss that place every day.

[tighe]

c&c, thanks for the response. Trying to choose among the many tempting options in Paris has been painful, but the research has been fun. I've tried to select a balance of different price levels, styles and specialties, but there are certainly going to be many great places we'll miss. Le Repairs sound great and I'll keep it in mind.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Cheeseandchocolate, do we really want to bring "Repaire..." to general attention? Or should we just keep it a secret?

[cheeseandchocolate]

In response to Margaret Pilgrim: I did wonder about that as I wrote my post...but the spirit of generosity overcame me! Plus, Le Repaire is already well-known among food lovers in Paris, and I often read write-ups about it both before and after I ate there myself. Fortunately, I always got in when I wanted to, and it was never teeming with tourists--so let's keep our fingers crossed it stays that way! It'll be the, um, E-Gullet secret--just between ALL of us!

[nightscotsman]

When I went to Paris last year I made all my reservations via fax (in English). Much less chance of a missunderstanding, less expensive on the phone bill, and you don't have to calculate what the time is there and if they are open when you call. Worked like a charm.

["T"]

My wife and I will also be in Paris for the first 10 days of Sept. Haven't even tried making reservations. Ooops. Oh well. Rented an apartment so it looks like markets and home cooking for us.

[hollywood]

My wife and I will also be in Paris for the first 10 days of Sept. Haven't even tried making reservations. Ooops. Oh well. Rented an apartment so it looks like markets and home cooking for us.

Au contraire. There may be a convention or two in town--booksellers? fashionistas?--but still, lotsa bistros will want your biz and probably some high end spots as well. Get cracking.

[fresh_a]

"Repaire" hasn't been a secret for years. I remember an article years back in the New York Times, as well as one in Conde Nast Traveller, calling it one of the best bistros in Paris.

[tighe]

My wife and I will also be in Paris for the first 10 days of Sept. Haven't even tried making reservations. Ooops. Oh well. Rented an apartment so it looks like markets and home cooking for us.

I called a few places last night and didn't have any trouble at all getting reservations for the days I wanted, so I would definitely say you are not out of luck.

"Repaire" hasn't been a secret for years. I remember an article years back in the New York Times, as well as one in Conde Nast Traveller, calling it one of the best bistros in Paris.

I noticed yesterday that Repaire de Cartouche is on Patricia Wells' 2003 list of favorite places in Paris. I would say this means 'the cat is out of the bag.' She talks about the boudin noir they serve, which makes me think I may need to work it into my itinerary.

Edited August 7, 2003 by tighe (log)

[paulbrussel]

L'Astrance takes reservations from August 26, I thought.

But you have to ring very early (10 in the morning, local time) since it is extremely difficult to get in and they only take reservation one month ahead.

[tighe]

L'Astrance takes reservations from August 26, I thought.

But you have to ring very early (10 in the morning, local time) since it is extremely difficult to get in and they only take reservation one month ahead.

This gives me some hope. The message on their answering machine does say they'll reopen on the 26th. Guess I will be staying up late and dialing for dollars....

[ABG]

This gives me some hope.    The message on their answering machine does say they'll reopen on the 26th.  Guess I will be staying up late and dialing for dollars....

I always let hotel concierge handle reservation. They have secured tables for me at L'Astrance on several occassions. They have all the angles.

[tighe]

This gives me some hope.    The message on their answering machine does say they'll reopen on the 26th.  Guess I will be staying up late and dialing for dollars....

I always let hotel concierge handle reservation. They have secured tables for me at L'Astrance on several occassions. They have all the angles.

A good suggestion, but since I'm allocating my $ to food instead of lodging, we're staying at a ** place which I doubt has a concierge. Also, some people on this board have shared stories of reservations made at L'Astrance by concierges being cancelled by the restaurant at the last minute, so I'd feel safer taking the direct route. And finally, the success or failure of my trip doesn't depend on getting reservations there, the list of places I'd like to go is about 3x the number of meals I could possibly eat, and growing....

[paulbrussel]

Since I am very curious about L'Astrance, tighe, I really hope you manage to make a reservation. I tried over the past 2 1/2 years (!) but I didn't know at the time that you had to reserve really early in the morning.

Hope to see your review!

Nevertheless, sometimes people say that L'Astrance is a bit over estimated... So if you can't get in, there doesn't seem to be a big problem...

["T"]

My wife and I will also be in Paris for the first 10 days of Sept. Haven't even tried making reservations. Ooops. Oh well. Rented an apartment so it looks like markets and home cooking for us.

Au contraire. There may be a convention or two in town--booksellers? fashionistas?--but still, lotsa bistros will want your biz and probably some high end spots as well. Get cracking.

The first few days will be devoted to one of those conventions. Then it's all wine and food.

[Bux]

the list of places I'd like to go is about 3x the number of meals I could possibly eat, and growing....

The story of my life. I'm surprised this is not someone's sig at eGullet.

[bushey]

tighe,

You might be surprised at the willingness/ability of the staffto help you with arrangements -- it's worth a try. If you are unable to secure reservations on your own, you might ask them for advice and some suggestions. You never know who may know someone who knows someone........

Where are you staying? I had hoped to visit Paris this month and was thinking of a couple of ** places in the 7th that were highly regarded on some website. Better a ** that's a cut above, than a *** that's sliding!

Happy planning!

bushey

[tighe]

Where are you staying? I had hoped to visit Paris this month and was thinking of a couple of ** places in the 7th that were highly regarded on some website. Better a ** that's a cut above, than a *** that's sliding!

I'm staying at a place called Hotel Exelmans in the 16th. I ended up there because of the air fare/hotel package I got a good deal on. It looks reasonably nice. I know its out of the way, but in some ways I like that...

[bushey]

Can't beat that price, and it looks quite nice. Isn't Jamin in/near Bois de Boulogne?

If you haven't been to visit Musee Marmottan in the 16th, I highly recommend it. It's a tiny jewel of a museum with a wonderful Impressionist collection and a room full of Monet's Water Lilies.

[hollywood]

Second the rec on Marmottan--even if you have been there.

[Schielke]

You will be preparing a full photo documentary of your culinary adventures right?

[tighe]

Can't beat that price, and it looks quite nice. Isn't Jamin in/near Bois de Boulogne?

If you haven't been to visit Musee Marmottan in the 16th, I highly recommend it. It's a tiny jewel of a museum with a wonderful Impressionist collection and a room full of Monet's Water Lilies.

Yes Jamin, and a number of other well thought-of places, are close by. Le Pre Catelan, which I mentioned in my initial post, is in the middle of the Bois de Bologne.

I've read a little about the M. Marmottan and will make a point of going. For being "out of the way" the 16th has quite a few interesting sights. I'm particularly looking forward to seeing Hector Guimarens' Art Nouveau buildings which are concentrated in the area around my hotel. I'm something of an architecture buff.

You will be preparing a full photo documentary of your culinary adventures right?

I definitely plan on a written report, but not so sure about the photo part. I suspect the French would find it very gauche to photograph one's food at dinner, especially at the higher end places. Hell, many people in the US find it gauche for that matter....

Edited August 11, 2003 by tighe (log)

[Bux]

I've not tried crossing the pont du Garilgliano on foot, but I assume it has a pedestrian sidewalk. If so, you might want to stroll through the very modern parc André Citroën in the 15th arr. across the Seine. There are some nice fountains and large greenhouse or conservatory.

[Schielke]

You will be preparing a full photo documentary of your culinary adventures right?

I definitely plan on a written report, but not so sure about the photo part. I suspect the French would find it very gauche to photograph one's food at dinner, especially at the higher end places. Hell, many people in the US find it gauche for that matter....

'Gauche' means 'cool' right?