Bouillabaisse in Marseilles anyone?

[peterpumkino]

[Peter, I hope I didn't spoil this one for you with Michelin's description.

Bux, you've ruined it for me now Only kidding! I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Mrs Woman]

Peter, see also here for Restaurant Mag's quest for decent fish soup

[peterpumkino]

Peter, see also here for Restaurant Mag's quest for decent fish soup

Nice link, thanks. I think it's got to be Chez FonFon!

[Bux]

Bux, you've ruined it for me now

You should know better than to read my posts.

[John Whiting]

Has anyone had any experience with Port Alma (10, avenue de New York. 75116 Paris)?

I have very fond memories of Port Alma, as set forth in my travel memoir, _Through Darkest Gaul with Trencher and Tastevin_:

FIVE years later . . . I zeroed in on Port Alma, another Michelin-starred restaurant . . . The Big B was on the menu for 300 francs. I ordered it for the following evening.

—I am sorry, Monsieur, said the waiter, but a minimum of two is necessary. The fish are too large for only one.

A good sign. They didn’t use chunks or fillets.

—That’s not a problem. Prepare it for two and I will eat nothing else.

The waiter looked discreetly appreciative.

—Very good, Monsieur.

The next day I skipped lunch. By dinner time I could have devoured a raw sea urchin, spines first. The fish arrived on a platter for my inspection, sleek and bright-eyed. There were no large shellfish. Good. To me, a crab or a lobster perched on top of a bouillabaisse is an excrescence. It is no more appropriate there than next to a steak, as in that American lusus naturae, Surf ’n’ Turf. These noble Crusacea deserve one’s undivided attention. In a cauldron fit for a feast they enrich the flavor and are not disproportionate, but in a small dish served at table they often return to the kitchen scarcely disturbed, having been placed there to show the rest of the diners that the host has a long purse. One of my fantasies is getting to know a restaurateur who will allow me to dine every night off the lazily-picked lobsters sent back to his kitchen.

After a suitable interval the fish returned cooked, still on the bone. They were presented again, piping hot, to show that each had been added at the correct stage. The top fillets were then deftly removed and served with a little of the liquid. The broth was robust and flavorsome, indicating that the chef had followed Root’s preferred practice of cooking the fish in bouillon—fish soup, even. If the dish is made with water, as in Lavandou (unless in large quantities, with a whole phylum of fish), the broth can be anemic.

Next came the soup in a separate bowl, thick and rich. It was accompanied by a strong hot rouille, by no means to be taken for granted in Paris, or even Province, where it must often be requested.

One lap of the course was covered, my own lap extended. The rest of the fish, which had been kept warm in the kitchen, followed. I loosened my belt and began again. I could feel the eyes of the waiters upon me, as if they had made private wagers among themselves. There went the last morsel of fish. Then came another bowl of soup. It seemed even larger than the first. More in the tureen. Would I reach the finish line? I popped a button and breasted the tape. Thank God I’d ordered only half a bottle of Muscadet. No entrée. No Badoit. No desert. No coffee. No petits fours. But I had single-handedly negotiated the rivulets and rapids of the Grand Bouillabaisse. There in the bubbling current, fin-to-fin with the saint-pierre, the rouget and the rascasse, swam the merlan. The whiting had come home to spawn.

[KatieLoeb]

I had a Bourride in a restaurant in Cassis, much less expensive than bouillabasse, and it was really excellent. A deep, complex flavor, also served with the toasts and the rouille.

{Sigh} This thread has reminded me of a month I spent in Cannes during college. I was taking a summer abroad class, and was (supposedly) studying Film and Art History while I was learning to drink wine, eat great food, sunbathe topless and flirt with foreign men of all stripes. There was a small bistro at the bottom of the street on which the boarding house where I was living was located. It was right at the western edge of Le Croissette. Their sign had a big octopus on it and once I discovered the Bourride, I had a bowl every single day for lunch for the rest of my stay. It was a revelation to me that food could be so rustic yet so sophisticated all at once. Major foodie epiphany. One of many over that summer...

Unfortunately my only memories of Marseilles were the sailors we picked up there that joined me in my train compartment and wouldn't stop sexually harrassing me until I threatened to pull the emergency brake on the train!

[peterpumkino]

I have very fond memories of Port Alma, as set forth in my travel memoir, _Through Darkest Gaul with Trencher and Tastevin_:

A wonderful post - great description of Bouillabaisse. I was going to say 'Do you write for a living? If not, you should.' until I noticed your comment ref. _Through Darkest Gaul with Trencher and Tastevin_. Where can I buy this as I really like your style?

But:

excrescence

You've been reading the dictionary again, haven't you John?

[peterpumkino]

{Sigh}  This thread has reminded me of a month I spent in Cannes during college.  I was taking a summer abroad class, and was (supposedly) studying Film and Art History while I was learning to drink wine, eat great food, sunbathe topless and flirt with foreign men of all stripes.

I've just come back from Cannes last week. Wish you had been there, then!!!!!

Edited July 30, 2003 by peterpumkino (log)

[robert brown]

A Tetou update: We went there tonight with seven other people. I had to be on my best behavior. The soup, rouille, potatoes, and toast were fine However, I asked the boss how many fish would be in the bouillabaisse. He said four. My wife and I detected just one. For the first time I noticed several unoccupied tables. I'm starting to believe that the dish is meant to go down in more humble surroundings.

[KatieLoeb]

I've just come back from Cannes last week. Wish you had been there, then!!!!! 

I was considerably younger and thinner then. The lower half of me looked far better in a bikini bottom. The rest of me however, is still "holding up" rather well, so to speak...

I had a very amusing experience there whilst lying topless on the beach. I was tanning peacefully when I heard the sound of a camera shutter overhead. I noticed a gentleman who was photographing me over the wall and looking down upon me. I sat up on my towel and politely asked him what he was doing. He said (in a clipped British accent) "Don't worry, love. These are only for my son's father. No one else will see them." I laughed so hard I almost cried and had to give the chap credit for wit under pressure. I decided not to worry about it since it was unlikely my mom would see the photos, and that's really the only person I was concerned about!

[peterpumkino]

I'm starting to believe that the dish is meant to go down in more humble surroundings.

Thanks Robert, now I know where NOT to go! Looks more like Chez Fon Fon.

[peterpumkino]

Welll I did it! I finally went to Chez Fon Fon on Saturday afternoon.

First of all I was disappointed, why? Because I understood that if the Bouillebaisse was the 'real thing' the fish would be cooked table-side. It wasn't.

Big tip, if you are with an odd number (we were in 3) order the B for 2 and a Fish Soup for 1 as the amount of fish is far too much for 2 people - this way you save a LOT of money.

The location was pretty with a lovely view over the harbour.

The food was good but was it exceptional? Probably not.

We ended up paying 165 Euros for 2 B's and 1 fish soup plus wine and dessert for 2. Which is not nearly as bad as I anticipated.

Incidentally we also went to Le Fetiche (04 91 54 00 98) in the old quarter and we found it a cut above. Waiters were great and fun and we had the Fruits De Mer for 3 which was very, very fresh - and the desserts were amazing, best Creme Brulee I've ever had!. Total bill was 95 Euros but we had a LOT to drink so it was great value. So-much-so that I'm taking a rugby group of 50 there in two weeks time. Great fun, great food.

[Bux]

I've only had bouillabaisse in Marseille twice. Once in the sixties and then again a couple of years ago. Both seemed authentic enough in their own way. In each case, the fish and broth were served separately and served at the table, rather than plated in the kitchen, but the dish was always cooked in the kitchen and my understand was that's how it's done. I can't recall reading a description of it being cooked tableside and don't see it as advantageous. I'm sure you must have come upon that understanding from something you read and wonder what it was. Then again, we all have a tendancy to fill in the blanks as we read, at least all of us with some degree of imagination. It's possible you pictured it as being cooked tableside and then never read anything that said it wasn't. It's not so unusual to find things are not the way we've always pictured them once we actually get there.

[peterpumkino]

Bux, you are so right in saying that people tend to see what they want to see (I'm in the travel business - remember ) but in this case I am sure that I read (or was told in Cannnes) that the "real" way to cook Bouilliabaisse is table-side. The rational was/is that every fish is cooked individually due to the fish requiring different cooking times.

Has anyone heard this, or is it just me?

[Bux]

Bux, you are so right in saying that people tend to see what they want to see (I'm in the travel business - remember )

Now that you mention it, it's a lot deeper than just using one's imagination to fill in between the lines. Some people use their full powers of imagination while they're looking at something. They bring all their prejudices to the site and it so colors their vision that they leave with them intact no matter the experience. Of course that doesn't apply to you or me--or to anyone here.

I often have the impression many people travel just to confirm their prejudices and reinforce the sense that their lifestyle, government, diet, plumbing, etc. is the best in the world. Unfortunately, I also get the sense my countrymen and yours are the worst in this regard. I hope it's only because they're the ones whose conversations I can eavesdrop.

[peterpumkino]

Of course that doesn't apply to you or me--or to anyone here. 

Of course.

Actually when they finally shut up the Americans are not bad tourists (better than the Brits I think).

Believe it or not the wonderful Italians can be a pain. They always seem 'up' and, unlike the Brits, they do spend money and want the best. Unfortunately they spend most of their hols looking for good food and not finding it! (outside of Italy that is).

We know that the Germans are awful tourists and the Canadians are just cheap (what's the difference between a canoe and a kanuck - a canoe tips!).

That statement should get everyone going!

[John Whiting]

I am sure that I read (or was told in Cannnes) that the "real" way to cook Bouilliabaisse is table-side. The rational was/is that every fish is cooked individually due to the fish requiring different cooking times.

I've never encountered bouillabaisse cooked tableside; it would be awkward and cumbersome, though some tourist-oriented restaurants might attempt it as a gimmick. But you're quite right about the cooking times. The fish should go into the pot in stages, like the vegetables in pot-au-feu.

Edit: I like your remarks about tourists. Perhaps the worst are always those whose high salaries in a foreign currency buy so much that they become arrogant. If so, I would expect both Americans and Germans now to be better behaved.

Edited August 20, 2003 by John Whiting (log)

[peterpumkino]

Perhaps the worst are always those whose high salaries in a foreign currency buy so much that they become arrogant. If so, I would expect both Americans and Germans now to be better behaved. 

Don't count on it!

Thanks John for clearing up my Bouilliabasse-cooked-tableside query.

[cigalechanta]

I leave in a week and want a place near the water at Marseille to try an authentic Bouilliabaisse.

The best restaurant in Aix where we dined was "Clos des Violettes

Ïn Cassis it was Monsieur Brun

[Bux]

I wonder if we haven't already exhausted all of the places by the water in Marseille in this thread.

[cigalechanta]

Has anyone had the B. at Le Lunch? I leave next week.

Any high recommendations?

[marcus]

L'Epuisette has by far the best bouillabaisse in Marseilles and has a wonderful location by the sea with a view out to the Chateau d'If.

[peterpumkino]

I wonder if we haven't already exhausted all of the places by the water in Marseille in this thread.

L'Epuisette has by far the best bouillabaisse in Marseilles and has a wonderful location by the sea with a view out to the Chateau d'If.

Apparantly not Bux.

Too late for me though although I took a group of 50 English rugby supporters to Marseille last weekend and I arranged a dinner at Le Feniche in the old town. The food was incredible even when catering for a large group. When I went to Marseilles three weeks ago part of my job was to find a place for this group so I investigated quite a few place and the food I had at Le Feniche (+33 491 54 00 98) was really superb (and it's quite difficult because the atmosphere had to be good but not too formal). Add to this the fact that some clients don't like fish (or meat) the decision for the manu was difficult but I decided on a menu of Seafood platter to start and then a choice of Chateubriand or Loup de Mer and they really came across.

I would reccomend it to anyone and it's not too expensive either.

[cigalechanta]

Hi returned last night from France. At my Provence friends' recommendations, we settled on FonFon and it was great.

They kindly gave me my menu, Worth the fuss!

Also had a spectacular meal in Cucuron at the Petite Maison, but tres cher!!!!. Outside of Paris the Fournaisse was wonderful and back at St Paul-de-Vence, our stay and meals at the Colombe DÓr were everything we hoped it would be. In the Camargue, The Telline was a surprising charming little place with a fine owner/chef.

The Grand Bleu in Beaune I liked very much.

mimi

[Duncan]

Judy and I are just back from another two week tour of the restaurants and vineyards of Provence. This time we made it down to Marseille so we thought that while there we should try a proper bouillabaise.

It was hot, so we limited ourselves to choosing amongst the restaurants on the quay. Miramar was eliminated as too expensive (€50 per head), and we eventually chose Restaurant Oscar (24, Quai du Port) as their sign proudly proclaimed that they follow the bouillabaisse traditions, and indeed they were busy filleting the cooked fish by the entrance. The sign also listed the fish in their bouillabaisse, which if I remember correctly were rascasse, grondin, vive and lotte (we decided not to go for the more expensive version with langoustines).

Pretty quickly we were served with a large plate of croutons, and bowls of rouille and grated cheese and couple of empty soup plates which they filled from a tureen of the bouillabaisse soup. Pretty obviously they must keep a lot of the stock ready as there was no way this was prepared to order, but it tasted very, very nice.

We worked our way through the soup for a while and then just as we were finishing it the waitress bought out a large platter with the cooked fish for us to admire and a waiter then set about filletting it:

The next bit of the process was slightly peculiar: having finished filleting the waiter took the two bowls of filletted fish and the plate of bones back into the restaurant and the waitress instantly brought out two bowls of fish. The changeover was sufficiently fast to leave us confused as to whether they had switched the fish (why?) or just taken them for a brief walk (I'm pretty sure it was the latter). Anyway, we were served the fish and some more soup (from a fresh pot) was spooned on top of it.

The fish was nicely cooked, and pretty well filleted (there were a few small bones stil, I think in the rascasse). Apart from the listed fish the dish also included a few mussels.

By the time we had worked our way through this feast of fish, we had no room left for dessert. The total bill for bouillabaisse (€28 each), wine and coffee came to €80.50 which seemed pretty good value for what we got.