Chez Sophie

[alacarte]

Paul Parker (proprietor of restaurante Chez Sophie in upstate NY) is scheduled to be back on the public radio program The Roundtable on Wednesday at 11:07 a.m. He plans to talk about using chocolate to make things other than dessert.

You can catch the show live via internet at http://www.wamc.org/listen.html or by FM radio at 90.3 Albany; 90.9 Kingston; 91.7 Middletown; 91.9 Plattsburgh; 93.3 Canajoharie; 103.9 Ticonderoga; 105.1 Great Barrington; 88.9 Oneonta; 93.1 Rensselaer-Troy; and 107.7 Newburgh or AM Radio at 1400 in Albany.

[docsconz]

Paulis always entertaining and has a lot of interesting things to say about food. He backs it up at the stove, too.

I recently had chocolatewith foies gras at Le Chevres inMontreal.Itwas outstanding and was paired wonderfully with a banyuls.

[docsconz]

My wife and I had an anniversary dinner last night at Chez Sophie which epitomized why this is such a great restaurant. First it is friendly and extremely accomodating. We were given a table near the last minute at a good time on a busy night. Second they saved some soft-shell crabs for us on request. The environment is comfortable and relaxing and the service is pleasant and professional and the food is just great bistro food - pristine ingredients, simply but expertly prepared.

My wife and I started with cocktails of champagne with an orange rhum that was subtle, well-balanced and delicious with just a hint of sweetness from the rum. This accompanied their great bread and lemon-garlic white bean dip.

We started with the soft-shell crabs which were as good as I have ever had. They were perfectly fried and served with a gorgeously delicious lemon-butter sauce that was neither too sweet nor too tart - just right. I scraped every bit of this off the plate. My wife and I shared a half-bottle of 1996 Meurseault from Pierre Matrot that was stunning with the crabs and on its own.

Cold cream of lovage soup was next up. This was incredibly tasty (I thought it had curry in it, but I was wrong), though slightluy salty.

My wife had their sweetbreads sauteed with lemon, butter and capers that is always wonderful there. I had a fantastic veal-chop with chinese black vinegar and mango that proved a marvellous combination balanced like a great dessert wine. This was served with perfectly cooked asparagus and relatively ordinary roasted potatoes. We shared a half-bottle of 1995 Hermitage from Guigal that was delightful though still somewhat young.

Desserts consisted of a well-executed creme caramel with pistachios for my wife and a fine strawberry-rhubarb compote for me.

I have posted a lot recently on a recent experience at Per Se. Although on a different level, this dinner in its own way was every bit as satisfying as that. That is not to say the overall experience was the same, just that based on expectations both proved to be absolutely satisfying.

If you are planning a visit to saratoga or vicinity this summer make a point of visiting this restaurant. Paul Parker's cooking is right on.

[robert40]

I truly believe Chez Sophie set's the bar in this area.

I will even go has far to say that it's a waste of your money to dine anywhere else in the area other then Chez Sophie.

But that's a opinion.

RR

[phaelon56]

Are we considering an eG group dinner at Chez Sophie the night before the picnic?

eGullet picnic - A Day At the Races in Saratoga Springs

Might be fun for those who are arriving the previous day (I will be among them). if that's too formal or too pricey for the group gathering I'm sure Doc can suggest some good alternatives.

[docsconz]

I will post discussion of Saturday night alternatives in that thread. Neeedless to say, I would absolutely recommend Chez Sophie to anyone interested that night. I'm not sure that it would be at its best with a large group on a Saturday night in August though.

[docsconz]

For those of you who may have read about this restaurant here or elsewhere, but have been unable to travel to Saratoga to visit it, you have an opportunity to try their fare (minus their ambiance) at the James Beard House on Oct. 25th.

[docsconz]

I received a press release from Chez Sophie today. They will be moving from their wonderful little diner spot off exit 13 of the Northway into downtown Saratoga Springs at the Saratoga Hotel come this March!

Chez Sophie at The Saratoga will be largely unchanged from its current concept.

Paul and Cheryl will still be 100 percent owners, in control of menu, tone, hiring, decor, and service. We are taking our award-winning wine inventory with us, and will be able to expand it with better climate-controlled storage facilities.

I have mixed feelings about this. The current restaurant is particularly charming. That charm might easily be lost. On the other hand, Paul and Cheryl Parker are committed to what they do and this seems like a splindid opportunity for them.

[sammy]

I'm stunned they are doing this. I agree that the diner setting made for a lot of charm and will be missed, no matter what the new place is like. And in a hotel?

[JPW]

Should give them significantly more traffic. When I'm up there for jazz fest the old location is usually mostly empty even if it is really only a 10 minute drive from downtown. I think that the move is a good business decision.

[rich]

This is nothing new for the Chez. Since I've been going to Saratoga (1968), they moved about five times. It's always good and the quality has never suffered. It was a bit a drive when they were in Lake Luzerne.

The last time they were in downtown Saratoga was in the late 70's - located next to the bread and muffin shop (forget the name right now). I thought that was the best of all the locations and probably the best food.

[docsconz]

This is nothing new for the Chez. Since I've been going to Saratoga (1968), they moved about five times. It's always good and the quality has never suffered. It was a bit a drive when they were in Lake Luzerne.

The last time they were in downtown Saratoga was in the late 70's - located next to the bread and muffin shop (forget the name right now). I thought that was the best of all the locations and probably the best food.

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That would have been Sophie in her prime. She really was outstanding.

I have no doubt that this will prove an excellent business decision and I wish them well with it. I am curious as to what will become of the diner.

[rich]

This is nothing new for the Chez. Since I've been going to Saratoga (1968), they moved about five times. It's always good and the quality has never suffered. It was a bit a drive when they were in Lake Luzerne.

The last time they were in downtown Saratoga was in the late 70's - located next to the bread and muffin shop (forget the name right now). I thought that was the best of all the locations and probably the best food.

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That would have been Sophie in her prime. She really was outstanding.

I have no doubt that this will prove an excellent business decision and I wish them well with it. I am curious as to what will become of the diner.

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It's a tough location - maybe the Paradiso people will take it over and make it a downscale of the mansion - to handle the overflow. Or the people from Fog City Diner in SF will come in and make it an east coast version.

Doc, was told that Paradiso's may not open next year. But they say this every year at this time and then open anyway. One of these years they may just pack it in for good.

[sammy]

Although Chez Sophie has moved a number of times, this move is different. They will now be doing catering plus serving breakfast and lunch in a much larger restaurant. It is much different buying product and cooking and serving food to 40 people 5 nights a week than what they'll have to do in their new location.

Just saying that this move is a bit different than the others. I hope they pull it off, but I don't think it will be easy. I still think a lot of the charm will be lost simply because Cheryl and Paul will not have the time to give their personal attention to so many guests.

Also, even though they will be 100% owners of the restaurant, I wonder what the relationship will be with the hotel company and it's possible effect on the finished product.

[docsconz]

Although Chez Sophie has moved a number of times, this move is different. They will now be doing catering plus serving breakfast and lunch in a much larger restaurant. It is much different buying product and cooking and serving food to 40 people 5 nights a week than what they'll have to do in their new location.

Just saying that this move is a bit different than the others. I hope they pull it off, but I don't think it will be easy. I still think a lot of the charm will be lost simply because Cheryl and Paul will not have the time to give their personal attention to so many guests.

Also, even though they will be 100% owners of the restaurant, I wonder what the relationship will be with the hotel company and it's possible effect on the finished product.

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Good questions all, Sammy. Time will tell. I do know that they had been contemplating opening a second restaurant closer to Albany. I think I prefer this scenario to that.

[docsconz]

I had what is likely to be my last meal at Chez Sophie Bistro in the diner in Malta last night. As usual it was excellent. My veal chop with wild mushrooms was the best I have had in some time.

They anticipate moving into the new space in mid-May, although the dates have already been pushed back several times. Nevertheless, it is important for them to get in and settled before Skidmore graduation weekend. I saw the floorplans for the new restaurant and talked with Paul and Cheryl at length last night about it. The plans look great adding a lot of flexibility to how they can serve. In addition, Paul is very excited about the capabilities of his new kitchen. Because they anticipate being able to do much more with food, they are dropping the word "Bistro" from the restaurant's name. It will now be known simply as "Chez Sophie". In addition to dinner they will also be serving breakfast and lunch. I wish them bon chance.

[markabauman]

Their newsletter is a delight to read. It gives great meaning to "Fresh, Local, Seasonal"

Chez Sophie

[docsconz]

Their newsletter is a delight to read. It gives great meaning to "Fresh, Local, Seasonal"

Chez Sophie

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Indeed it is. i would recommend that anyone with ties to the Saratoga area get on the e-mailing list as not only does it chronicle the restaurant, it has great discussion on broader food-related topics as well as The Family Parker.

[JPW]

Their newsletter is a delight to read. It gives great meaning to "Fresh, Local, Seasonal"

Chez Sophie

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Thanks for that notice. I signed up for the newsletter and am already looking forward to dinner there during our annual jazz fest pilgrimage.

[rich]

Doc, have you been to their place in the Prime? I've heard from some people that the old restaurant is still open. If true, how are they operating both?

Thanks.

[markabauman]

I have not been to the new location, but it appears that they are only running the hotel location; the "diner" appears closed. Something new- they are serving breakfast, lunch and dinner for the first time.

[docsconz]

The diner is most definitely closed. I haven't yet been to the new location although I hope to go soon. when I do I will post photos.

[JPW]

The diner is most definitely closed. I haven't yet been to the new location although I hope to go soon. when I do I will post photos.

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I was at Jazz Fest last week and Mrs JPW, Peanut and I had dinner at the new location in the Saratoga Hotel on the very edge of downtown. The space is beautiful. The lower level dining room has about 20 or so tables and looks out ovre a nice courtyard where they have installed several of Joseph's sculptures. About 5 steps up is a huge bar area with another dozen or so tables and a very attractive bar.

We started with the pate a choux which was very good, but could have withstood a touch more seasoning IMO. I had the duck breast which was also very good, but the star was Mrs JPW's brined pork loin. This is a superb dish. For dessert Mrs JPW and Peanut polished of the "nearly flourless chocolate cake" and I had a well thought out cheese course.

Cheryl picked out a nice Corbieres for us at $48. Wine prices are more than reasonable. I spotted several bottles at less than twice retail.

The only problem was the Keystone Kops-like service. But seeing as how the place opened literally the week before and that all of the servers were extremely earnest, attentive, and well-meaning, this was easy to overlook in the context of a highly enjoyable meal.

[docsconz]

Thanks for the report, Joe. I don't see the food suffering although I wouldn't be surprised by a few glitches here and there as they get used to their new SOA kitchen. Ultimately, I expect the food to be even better and more interesting than before. I think the real question will be service in the larger space. It is notoriously difficult around here to get and retain top-notch servers. In the smaller location that was never much of an issue. It will be interesting to see how well they cope here. If anyone can do it I suspect they can, however.

[docsconz]

I haven't yet been able to enjoy a full meal in the new restaurant, but tonight I attended an opening wine and hors d'ouvres party. The space is indeed beautiful. It is sophisticated and elegant without being pretentious. It also provides a fine way to display Joseph Parker's (and others') art work. The space fits the kind of cuisine they make. With the skill and dedication of Paul and Cheryl parker, I have no doubt they will be successful here.