Sketch

[Scott]

Yes well, I had both this year. But I drank the 1988 out of a half bottle, the 1989 out of a magnum, the latter having been opened about 3 hours before I drank something out of it. After that I thought that I liked the 1988 more, although indeed the 1989 is considered to be better.

I must admit that after a while in the glass, the 1989 opened more, but still.

And I also do admit that half a bottle and a magnum, you should not compare.

Paul,

I am very familiar with both wines (and most wines from this estate produced over the last half century), and it sounds like you were very fortunate with your 1988. I have always found it underripe and slightly herbal, with a hard tannic structure.

It's always nice when you come across something that is really singing, but as fortuitous as that may be, it's a risk to expect such a performance consistently from the lesser wine.

[tony h]

I had dinner there are few months ago - pre starters were extensive as were the starters - 4 each if memory servers plus about 6 amuses. And then some. In fact - by the time main arrived I could barely eat more than half. I don't have any notes but I do recall a mouse of foie gras with raspberry coulis on top - quite divine. Sadly I couldnt even contemplate a single dessert (7 on offer as part of the "grand dessert"). I didn't have any wine as I couldn't affort it (18 pounds for a glass!). Service was exceptional & friendly although the carpet is a bit off putting. Toilets were great - like peeing into a waterfall!

Can't wait to go back (when my credit card is healither - although now I think of it - that may be never). Wish I'd known about the excelent sounding lunch.

[VivreManger]

This is not a report about the food at Sketch, but rather a report on how Sketch appears.

Last week in London I walked through what I could of the place, planning for a return visit that never took place, so what I offer here reflects the observation of seeing, not the experience of eating.

Late one afternoon I wandered up into the gents and observed the pissoir waterfalls, all amusing and provocative, but cramped and dimly lit as well. I imagined the experience of peeing into a waterfalls has the merits of bring one with nature, but I didn't try it. The steps leading up to the toilet are covered with rubberized crud that reminded me of preserved vomit, after a particularly raunchy evening of drunked debacle at Animal House, the visual equivalent of a whoopie cushion. Perhaps there are those who relish such a sight.

I then tried the patisserie cafe. It was the smokiest den in London. Much cloudier with smoke than any pub I visited recently. The tables were packed together. The setting certainly did not justify the prices of the pastry. Informed by lxt's memorable notes, I surveyed what was on offer. First, the photos looked better than the original. To be sure this was toward the end of the day, around 4:30-5:00, but everything looked fly-bitten and left-over, rather dry around the edges and distinctly unappetizing. Each pastry was about 3/4 the normal size and about 50p to a quid greater than the normal price. Furthermore the best things from what I remember were missing and what was left had undergone a recipe change for the worst.

Pierre Herme looks much better.

Still I thought I might return the next day when the choices were greater and fresher, but somehow it did not seem worth the effort and Patisserie Valerie and Maison Blanc got my custom instead.

Somehow I doubt the place will be there next time I visit.

[Matthew Grant]

But Matthew, are you able to say anything about my two first questions, or are you not able to compare Sketch with PaT or Gagnaire?

I'm going to PDT next Saturday, I can't comment on Gagnaire in Paris.

[paulbrussel]

Paul,

I am very familiar with both wines (and most wines from this estate produced over the last half century), and it sounds like you were very fortunate with your 1988.  I have always found it underripe and slightly herbal, with a hard tannic structure.

It's always nice when you come across something that is really singing, but as fortuitous as that may be, it's a risk to expect such a performance consistently from the lesser wine.

I also must admit that I liked it the best the first time I had the Comtesse 1988; the other times, I was less impressed.

To make it even more interesting: this year I wanted to taste the Baron, of 1993 - I found it all right, but far less impressive as the Comtesse.

And how very nice you are so familiar with these wines of the last 50 years! It makes me envy you .

[paulbrussel]

I'm going to PDT next Saturday, I can't comment on Gagnaire in Paris.

Then I would very much appreciate your comparison between the two restaurants next week!

(Since I have been to Gagnaire several times, and I count it with El Bulli and Le Carré des Feuillants among my favourite restaurants, I do think that Sketch does have similarities with his restaurant.)

[tony h]

... the pissoir waterfalls, all amusing and provocative ....  the visual equivalent of a whoopie cushion.  Perhaps there are those who relish such a sight.

I do - lighten up. Its only a restaurant after all

[lxt]

Vivre,

I can’t agree with you more on your perception of the décor at Sketch. However, I am thoroughly sad to hear about the patisserie. Our impression was of glamour rather then of a run-down establishment. Fortunately during our visit there were no smokers in the room. What comes to mind is Verbena’s comment stating that he/she didn’t think it was a “great place to work.” I can only speculate, of course, but perhaps lack of organization contributed to its decline. Very sad.

Did you make it to Gordon Ramsay?

[lxt]

Paimpol white bean veloute with tomato concasse, sweet onions, fresh coconut and scallop moussline - fantastic

Matthew, did you have any interesting amuses? Can you describe how this particular starter was presented?

Roasted endive with watercress and braised radish - dull. The watercress wasn't at all peppery and the dish was under seasoned.

At out lunch, our second starter, asparagus royale, provoked an identical feeling of being a little bland, where the purpose seemed to lie in demonstrating the pure taste of the main ingredient unobscured by seasoning. I can see how when the quality of the raw vegetable fails, the dish can be a complete fiasco. I also wonder whether the second starter was supposed to serve as a palate cleanser.

Baby Aubergine and roasted figs was served in a sweet shortcrust pastry, very simple but a good combination that worked surprisingly well.

What did you find surprising in this dish? I think the idea of matching aubergine with a sweet counterpart like raisins in caponata, for instance, is not new. Using figs instead of raisins could come from Greek cuisine or Middle East.

Vinegar infused sweet and sour jelly with beetroot sorbet was outstanding. I would have happily eaten a bowl of the vinegary jelly.

Out of curiosity, was the sorbet sweet enough to stand as a separate dessert? Would you find it appealing on its own?

I agree that the overall Sketch experience is not only engaging but inspires one to return as soon as possible.

[Matthew Grant]

Paimpol white bean veloute with tomato concasse, sweet onions, fresh coconut and scallop moussline - fantastic

Matthew, did you have any interesting amuses? Can you describe how this particular starter was presented?

I have to confess that I can't remember the Amuse - not particularly interesting obviously

The first course was served with apol of the veloute on top of which was a sqaure of the tomato concasse, sweet onions still surrounded by the mould which was removed at the table. The Mousseline sat atop the concasse shaped like a scallop. I was surprised to find the this dish was served warm and one of the presentations collapsed a few seconds after the mould was removed.

Baby Aubergine and roasted figs was served in a sweet shortcrust pastry, very simple but a good combination that worked surprisingly well.

What did you find surprising in this dish? I think the idea of matching aubergine with a sweet counterpart like raisins in caponata, for instance, is not new. Using figs instead of raisins could come from Greek cuisine or Middle East.

The surprising element was the sweet pastry, it was very delicate and would have easily been used as a dessert pastry.

Vinegar infused sweet and sour jelly with beetroot sorbet was outstanding. I would have happily eaten a bowl of the vinegary jelly.

Out of curiosity, was the sorbet sweet enough to stand as a separate dessert? Would you find it appealing on its own?

The sorbet was not overly sweet, I would have been surprise to find it as a dessert. It was very light indeed.

[VivreManger]

Vivre,

Did you make it to Gordon Ramsay?

I did for the tasting menu at lunch. Too busy to write up my report, but it should follow.

In brief, I thought it was uneven. Some of the dishes were oversalted. I thought that Pied a terre showed more imagination than did GR RHR.

[Scott]

  I thought that Pied a terre showed more imagination than did GR RHR.

[Matthew Grant]

I forgot to mention, there were only 8 people for lunch, 2 just had a solitary glass of wine. 2 drank water and 2 drank orange juice. Incidentally the 2 with the Orange juice looked like they were possibly tourists and had just wandered in by accident : Nothing better than being dressed down in a restaurant when everybody around you is dressed up

Anyway my point was that you shouldn't feel obliged to order wine. If you really want to eat here but the prices scare you, go along and order the set lunch with a bottle of water, service was no different for any of the couples.

[lxt]

Matthew, thank you for the details. During our visit, only several tables were busy as well, which seemed strange considering the good value of the prix-fixe menu and the quality of lunch. I hope Sketch does better business at dinner. Perhaps a general perception of the restaurant being extremely expensive doesn’t lure many even to explore other possibilities like special deals at lunch.

I also wonder whether the concept of having such diverse establishments (a serious restaurant with several bars that turn into museums during daytime) under the same roof is not appealing to more serious diners. I wonder whether the restaurant wouldn’t have done much better had it stood on its own.

[lxt]

Vivre,

Did you make it to Gordon Ramsay?

I did for the tasting menu at lunch. Too busy to write up my report, but it should follow.

In brief, I thought it was uneven. Some of the dishes were oversalted. I thought that Pied a terre showed more imagination than did GR RHR.

I am surprised to hear your dishes were oversalted. If I had to make a general comment on RHR, I’d lean toward characterizing the restaurant as one that mastered balance and if anything mildness in seasoning. This is in contrary to its offspring, Petrus, which literally shocked us with the amount of salt utilized in almost all savory dishes, which overshadowed anything positive that could’ve come out of our experience at the restaurant.

I am looking forward to your report.

[paulbrussel]

Lunch at Sketch yesterday was very enjoyable and could almost tempt me back for the carte in the evening.

A few weeks later, I had exactly the same menu, and I took by the way the two mains.

I did like it very much, although for me it had not the same high and perfect standards as it has at Pierre Gagnaire in Paris.

Still, what I liked, and which is the same in Paris: the combination of ingredients is more then only a sum of the different parts.

Service is good, and almost every one is a French speaker.

Indeed: wine can be expensive. Although I was recommended an excellent Mâcon-Bussières – Verget –2002 for 32 €.

A glass of champagne however was outrageous: the Bollinger – 1996 – Rosé champagne was very nice but the normal champagne for 25 € the glass was quite ordinary.

[Andy Lynes]

Sketch has re-structured its prices. Although still offering main courses of up to £60.00 on its a la carte menu, lunch in the Lecture Room & Library is a relative bargin at £35.00 for 3 courses, a "plat du jour" is served with a glass of Henri Giraud, Grand Cru, Francois Hemart "Reserve" NV for £22.00 and the set "Menu by Pierre Gagnaire" is £65.00 for 3 courses or £80.00 for 5.

In addition, Toptable are running a £39.00 for 3 courses offer in the Gallery at Sketch which again includes a glass of champagne.

Full menu details are available at the restaurant's website

[robyn]

Has anyone been to Sketch in the last couple of months? How was it?

I'm making reservations for our trip in May now - and am filling up my dancecard. Robyn

[Gavin Convery]

I went at Christmas and loved it - with the new price structure I would say it is not to be missed...unless you're going to Paris in which case Pierre Gagnaire is the obvious replacement.

[robyn]

I went at Christmas and loved it - with the new price structure I would say it is not to be missed...unless you're going to Paris in which case Pierre Gagnaire is the obvious replacement.

I wonder why Michelin didn't give it even one star (I haven't read anything bad about the place anywhere)? Robyn

[Gavin Convery]

I couldn't fathom that out at all. It deserves at least one...and personally I found it one of the most exciting restaurants I have been to in London. In comparison a trip to Gordon Ramsay RHR is a dull affair.

[howardlong]

I went at Christmas and loved it - with the new price structure I would say it is not to be missed...unless you're going to Paris in which case Pierre Gagnaire is the obvious replacement.

I wonder why Michelin didn't give it even one star (I haven't read anything bad about the place anywhere)? Robyn

...apparently he didn't return the questionaire Michelin provide, with things like opening times, holidays etc.

I wonder if the wine list will be similarly toned down?

Cheers, Howard

[Bruce Burger]

Can anyone offer a first-hand comparison of Sketch (the Lecture Room) and Pierre Gagnaire in Paris?

My dinner at Pierre Gagnaire 2 years ago was a thrilling adventure through creative, delicious taste combinations. Once the food started coming, I quickly gave up on trying to figure out what was in each dish, and just floated ecstatically through the courses. (Can you tell that I left happy?)

Should I expect as much from Sketch?

-Bruce (in Seattle)

[howardlong]

Can anyone offer a first-hand comparison of Sketch (the Lecture Room) and Pierre Gagnaire in Paris?

My dinner at Pierre Gagnaire 2 years ago was a thrilling adventure through creative, delicious taste combinations. Once the food started coming, I quickly gave up on trying to figure out what was in each dish, and just floated ecstatically through the courses. (Can you tell that I left happy?)

Should I expect as much from Sketch?

-Bruce (in Seattle)

Hello Bruce

Assuming that you mean the Lecture Room/Library and not the Gallery, the food at Sketch is certainly excellent and entertaining, and the number of different pre starters (eight in two tranches on my last trip) and sub-dishes with the main certainly meant that any chance of remembering everything you had was pretty much impossible.

My big downer was the wine list which I felt had nothing in the low or mid range on offer. I spent £750 for two and although I wasn't skimping, neither was I pushing the boat out.

I believe that they may have some offers on at the moment.

I think I've mentioned on here before that it was a 'Concorde experience': worth going once as a lifetime experience. And I'd certainly go again if I wasn't paying...

You can see my review here Howard's Sketch Library Room review

The Gallery is the wannabe trendy place, together with its attached bar.

As I've never been to Pierre Gagnaire in Paris, I cannot offer you a direct comparison I'm afraid.

Cheers, Howard

[Gavin Convery]

Bruce,

Sketch is currently my favourite restaurant in London, in fact I'm going there next week for dinner. It is in equal measures tasty and exciting (personally I find it more successfully experimental than the Fat Duck). I believe that some of the dishes are direct correlates of Gagnaire particularly the dessert.

Pricing has recently been restructured to make this a more feasible experience with a degustation menu for £80.

Like Howard I have not been to Gagnaire but it is top of my hit list for my next trip to Paris on the basis of my experience at Sketch.

Here's the website if you haven't been:

http://www.sketch.uk.com/