The Bordeaux Dilemma

[Craig Camp]

Bordeaux has arrived in the world of brands kicking and screaming. With a greater volume output than Chile, the region certainly has the resources to unleash some major labels, but does it have the infrastructure and the unity of purpose? Bordeaux’s key figures talk to Roger Voss about the unique hurdles to be overcome

[inventolux]

We should play with our history, our knowledge and our traditions,’ says Ginestet’s Delpeuch. - the last line of the article.

I buy bordeaux and a majority of my french purchases because I am looking for some terroir, ageability, and delicacy. A bottle of 82 Brane Cantenac recently cost me 65 bucks. A screaming deal. You would be hard pressed to find anything like it from an american company with similar character for that price.

Sure, the french charge more for their wines, but its a matter of preference. I dont care a lot of the fat over oaked trash that comes out of California. Im not saying its all bad, a lot of producers are changing their styles to involve more soiling character and rely less on profitable yeilds. But if I go for something high end, Im going french.

[Mark Sommelier]

I believe there are some errors in this article. I think this fellow has confused cases and bottles. The Gallo Wine Company produces way more than 300 million bottles of wine a year.

[Craig Camp]

Very true! However, the issue is why is there no Bordeaux "Yellow Tail"?

[Mark Sommelier]

However, the issue is why is there no Bordeaux "Yellow Tail"?

Both sides of the Rothschild family have expanded their offerings far beyond Mouton and Lafite, with wines from the Pays d'Oc, Chile and Bordeaux. Mouton Cadet is the most familiar "brand" from Bordeaux, even though it no longer costs $4.99. Phillipe de Rothschild's website states that they sell 28.5 million bottles of wine a year. Yvon Mau and Domaines Barons de Rothschild must move similar numbers or more. What are they looking for?

[Craig Camp]

But why do you never see giant case stackings of Mouton Cadet like you do of Yellowtail?

My feeling is that part of the reason is payola. The French have never felt they have to 'buy' their business. The Australians hit the market with the spirit of pure capitalism in their hearts.