TDG: Desperate Measures: Thai Omelet

[Fat Guy]

Too many chickens, not enough cows.

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[Marlene]

Mamster's Thai Omlete Search for all the TDG recipes in the archive by entering "the daily gullet"

[snowangel]

Thanks, Mamster.

I make this often for our family, sometimes adding other things.

One of my fondest memories was trips to Hua Hin and the wonderful hole-in-the-wall restaurant we discovered. On a corner, open on two sides. Dogs and chickens welcome, as were customers. They had basically two dishes -- omelet with crab and crab fried rice. Crabs fresh (sometimes you had to stop a little ahead of time and someone would go out and get the crabs). The crab "bits" were at least thumb sized. The Singha beer was always cold.

One other omelet preparation (can't remember the Thai name) is the stuffed omelet. Basically and egg crepe (no flour), into the center of which one would put a stir fried pork/scallion mixture and fold the thing over. I don't recall this, however, as being street food.

And, I enjoyed your description of pad thai. One of the things that has often puzzled me is the farang description of "authentic" pad thai. As far as I know, there is no "authentic" pad thai. It varied by cook. No two places in Thailand make it the same way, and I would not presume not to call any of these variations "pad thai." Sort of like chili, I guess.

[Suzanne F]

One of the things that has often puzzled me is the farang description of "authentic" pad thai.  As far as I know, there is no "authentic" pad thai.  It varied by cook.  No two places in Thailand make it the same way, and I would not presume not to call any of these variations "pad thai."

Someone, please post this as a sticky on all the cooking threads. (I HATE the word "authentic" when applied to food. ) Thank you, snowangel.

[Fat Guy]

Dogs and chickens welcome, as were customers.

Did the dogs and the chickens coexist peacefully?

[mamster]

snowangel, you scared me there for a minute into thinking that I had used the phrase "authentic phad thai," which would definitely be worth a flogging with a soaked rice noodle.

Today I had lunch at a pretty good Thai place in Seattle that offers two different phad thais on the menu, one made with ketchup and one with tamarind paste. I'm not using the A-word, but I know which one I like.

Hey, wait, we were talking about omelets.

[snowangel]

Dogs and chickens welcome, as were customers.

Did the dogs and the chickens coexist peacefully?

Yes, they existed peacefully. The chickens, however, did not particularly like co-existing with farangs, as many a human ankle would attest to. I don't recall the chickens having the same fondness for the cook's ankles as mine.

[snowangel]

snowangel, you scared me there for a minute into thinking that I had used the phrase "authentic phad thai," which would definitely be worth a flogging with a soaked rice noodle.

Today I had lunch at a pretty good Thai place in Seattle that offers two different phad thais on the menu, one made with ketchup and one with tamarind paste.  I'm not using the A-word, but I know which one I like.

Hey, wait, we were talking about omelets.

No, you did not use the "A" word, but plenty of other people do. I happen to really like eggy pad thai, and it is not common in the U. S. so I usually make it myself.

As to the history of ketchup in pad thai (and other thai foods). I believe it goes back to the mid-60's when anything sold at the PX (post exchange; American food available only to those in the military/diplomacy; we, not in any way associated with the U. S. gov't, used to refer to the U. S. as the "land of the great PX") was assumed to be superior and worthy of inclusion in all areas of life. When I was living there, I couldn't find anyone who had even heard of ketchup until the military presence became so prevalent. This would have also been the beginning of the love affair in Thailand with the plastic bag.

As a point of reference, I moved to THailand in 1964 and left in 1975 upon graduating from high school. I have been back twice, and am planning a trip with Diana for late 2003/early 2004.

[torakris]

One other omelet preparation (can't remember the Thai name) is the stuffed omelet.  Basically and egg crepe (no flour), into the center of which one would put a stir fried pork/scallion mixture and fold the thing over.  I don't recall this, however, as being street food.

There is a Vietnamese omelette that is similar, except I guess it can't really be called an omelete because there are no eggs. It is sort of like a crispy crepe (made with flour and coconut milk) folded around a sauteed .meat/seafood/vgetable mixture, called something like bainseo (sorry I am translating the name from Japanese).

[Bux]

Meanwhile, other aspects of egg cookery went unexamined. One is the idea that you  should always cook your eggs in butter. Butter and eggs are natural mates, it's true,  but if you haven't had your eggs Thai-style, cooked in peanut oil, you're missing out  on another way to enjoy your daily egg.

There's no doubt I have associated eggs and butter as inseparable pan companions. This was reinforced in Japan when we were served cold eggs that had been fried in oil earlier. Nevertheless, one good tortilla Español should convince anyone that olive oil and eggs are a natural and it doesn't matter if the tortilla is served hot or cold for the olive oil to taste right.

[mamster]

There is a Vietnamese omelette that is similar, except I guess it can't really be called an omelete because there are no eggs. It is sort of like a crispy crepe (made with flour and coconut milk) folded around a sauteed .meat/seafood/vgetable mixture, called something like bainseo (sorry I am translating the name from Japanese).

I'm working on a column about these! The Vietnamese word (without any accents, of which there are probably many) is banh xeo. They are so good, and easy to make at home, although there's a place not far from my house that'll make you a great one, with pork and shrimp, onions and bean sprouts, with nuoc cham for dipping, for like $6.

[Jinmyo]

Nice article, mamster.

I like doing an "omelet" (though I don't think of it as such, really) with ngoc mam, ginger, and coriander; grilled and chopped seafood like scallops and shrimp and whole bay scallops thrown in; folded, wrapped in rice paper, deep-fried for a few seconds. Served wrapped with Boston lettuce and a chile dipping sauce. (Actually gojuchang with ngoc mam and slivered scallions works well.)

[Monica Bhide]

Mamster, when I used to visit India for summer breaks (as a child), one of my fondest memories is of this really old man, who would come around 11:30 at night with a broken down old cart. The cart had a "tava" or a hot griddle and tons of eggs. He would make omelets on his broken down cart for about 10 cents and serve them with "double roti" or bread and some stuff that looked like tomato ketchup! Best stuff I have ever had. He mixed in minced onions, cilantro and green chiles with the eggs.

[tissue]

One other omelet preparation (can't remember the Thai name) is the stuffed omelet.  Basically and egg crepe (no flour), into the center of which one would put a stir fried pork/scallion mixture and fold the thing over.  I don't recall this, however, as being street food.

I had a similar omelette in Chiang Mai last year. It was delicious. I asked for extra ground peanuts, it was so good with the pork and the scallions. The egg was so thin, you could hardly taste it but it had a great crispy texture. They used a lot of oil though to get it so thin & crispy.

[snowangel]

Aren't eggs just wonderful? I recall a few years ago saying to Paul that "the larder is bare." When he commented that it looked like we had plenty of food, I told him "but we don't have any eggs!"

I can't think of a working mom who hasn't resorted to eggs (frittata, a Thai omelet, fried eggs on toast) for a really fast dinner.

I could give up many, many foods (I would miss them, tho), but I don't think I could live without eggs.

[JosephB]

Enjoyable article. Thanks. I haven't tried your recipe yet, but it would seem to me that raw eggs would not be happy with the introduction of an acid (lime).

[KNorthrup]

Eggs eggs eggs. Lunch and dinner. Wonderful things. Not least my father's sublime fried egg sandwich with ketchup and cheddar. I frequently do them up with Indian and Mexican type flavours but hadn't thought about Thai. But actually my favourite part of the article was the peanut oil recommendation. That's what I usually use (for the most traditional of reasons -- it's what my mother always used) but the grocery stores never seem to carry it now. But we do have an Uwajimaya. Mmmm. Pineapple sausages.

[mamster]

Enjoyable article.  Thanks.  I haven't tried your recipe yet, but it would seem to me that raw eggs would not be happy with the introduction of an acid (lime).

You're right, but you're only adding a little bit, right before you cook them. It's okay.

[Marlene]

Aren't eggs just wonderful? 

I can't think of a working mom who hasn't resorted to eggs (frittata, a Thai omelet, fried eggs on toast) for a really fast dinner.

I could give up many, many foods (I would miss them, tho), but I don't think I could live without eggs.

Um that would be me. I have never gotten past the "eggs are for breakfast thing". Nor have I ever cooked Thai. However, mamster's article is inspiring me to give it a try. Is this a good way for a novice to begin?

[mamster]

Sure, if you have easy access to fish sauce. For a first-timer, a nice pork and scallion filling would be good, I think.

[Marlene]

I can get fish sauce. You know, this will be a first for me. I"m not a huge fish fan, so fish sauce is a huge quantum leap for me

[torakris]

I can get fish sauce.  You know, this will be a first for me.  I"m not a huge fish fan, so fish sauce is a huge quantum leap for me

Fish sauce is wonderful (where did that thread go?)

Eggs are wonderful! I can eat them in anyway at any time of day.

[Jinmyo]

I have never gotten past the "eggs are for breakfast thing".

Grilled fish and a raw egg are for breakfast.

[mamster]

Fish and fish sauce are very different. Just don't reject the fish sauce on the basis of smell.

[Marlene]

I have never gotten past the "eggs are for breakfast thing".

Grilled fish and a raw egg are for breakfast.

Oh gag. (sorry, automatic relfex )