learning to cook in Mexico

[cew]

I'm thinking about doing intensive Spanish in Mexico for the month of August. I'd like to learn how to cook authentic & delicious Mexican food while I'm there, too. Do you have any ideas about the best place in Mexico to do this? Obviously, Oaxaca comes to mind ... some great language schools and the food is wonderful. Anywhere else?

[Jaymes]

How truly fabulous!

I attended a class here in Austin taught by Susana Trilling who owns and operates Seasons of My Heart Cooking School in Oaxaca. In fact, I recommended it to Joy (Abbylovi) who then did some research on the school and actually did attend a class.

Susana's classes include trips to the market in addition to cooking and eating and chats about the culture.

She has several cookbooks out, including Seasons of My Heart, which I have and use and enjoy. You can access information about her at seasonsofmyheart.com. I highly recommend her and her classes to everyone. Joy(Abbylovi) was not familiar with Susana's classes until I mentioned them to her here on eGullet (in the Diana Kennedy cookbook thread), but she was very well pleased and, I believe, hopes to attend again sometime in the future.

The May issue of Bon Appetit lists these cooking schools as well as Susana's:

Mazatlan - Cooking with Cuata - genio.net/cuata

Tlaxcala - Mexican Home Cooking with Estela Salas Silva mexicanhomecooking.com

Cuernavaca - Chef Ana Garcia, owner of Reposado Restaurant - lavillabonita.com

Flavors of Mexico Culinary Adventures - marilyntausend.com - the blurb in Bon Appetit does not mention exactly where these classes are held, but it does say, "Learn the nuances of regional Mexican cooking from Marilyn Tausend and other all-stars, including cookbook author Diana Kennedy and chef Rick Bayless."

San Miguel de Allende - several acclaimed local chefs take turn teaching classes, as well as leading excursions to nearby Guanajuato and Pazos - 011-52-415-152-5807

I am familiar with several language schools in Mexico. San Miguel de Allende, of course, is famous for its schools of language, cooking, and art. You can contact the Instituto Allende at 001-52-465-20-190.

Cuernavaca, Mazatlan, Oaxaca and more also have well-known language schools as well as cooking classes. Puebla has a renowned culinary tradition and I believe a language school, too. Although not right in Puebla, Tlaxcala (mentioned above) is the ajacent state and if you'll look on a map, you'll see the town of Tlaxcala is very close to Puebla. I am sure that the cooking school focuses on the famous foods of Puebla.

AmeriSpan Unlimited in Philadelphia 800-879-6640 arranges for language schools, home stays, etc., and may know something about cooking classes, although I'm not sure about that. Language Link does the same thing: 800-552-2051.

Here are some websites to look over: National Registration Center for Study Abroad: inquire@nrcsa.com

And Council on International Education Exchange: info@ciee.org

Don't know where you are, but that last one is in New York at 205 E 42nd Street - 888-268-6245

Edit: Forgot to mention probably the best resource. Institute of International Education in Mexico City publishes a profile of between 40-50 Spanish language schools in Mexico - called Spanish Study in Mexico, and an International Student's Guide to Mexican Universities. 011-52-5211-0042.

I should add that this information was all good a few years back when I was doing some research on behalf of my daughter (who teaches Spanish), but I really don't know for sure that it is still current.

But these should be some good places to begin your quest, anyway.

Don't forget to check back and let us know how your inquiries go. I am planning on spending considerable time in Mexico again myself during this coming year and will be following your exploits closely and eagerly.

Edited May 17, 2003 by Jaymes (log)

[chefsteban]

I would highly recommend Chef Ana Garcias school in Cuernavaca.....The curriculum is outstanding and , all things considered, reasonably priced. Besides Cuernavaca is a beautiful city, rich in culture and outstandinf cusine. Go to the schools web site for all information and prices. I do know that they are offering a 15% reduction in tuition if you book now.

[Jaymes]

And isn't their restaurant, Reposado, one of the finest in Mexico? I haven't been, but seems to me I've been told so.

Also, Morelia, Mexico's famous "Candy Town" has an excellent language school, and a culinary tradition (at least as far as sweets go) that is so well known in Mexico, that if you say "Morelia" to Mexicans, it's like saying "Hershey" in the States.

[cew]

Thank you for your suggestions. I wish I had just a little more money, but unfortunately it looks like every school in Cuernavaca is too expensive for me.

I have been thinking about attending this school in Oaxaca, largely because it seems like such an incredible deal: http://www.instculturaloax.com.mx/workshops.html

One of the things I like about it is that one of the afternoon workshops is a regional cooking class--I think I could attend every Monday through Thursday! Do you know/have you heard anything about this program?

[Jaymes]

Do you know/have you heard anything about this program?

I haven't heard anything specific about this particular school, but am going to check it out.

It looks good from the website - I have some contacts I'm going to query about it.

And actually, I think I might be interested in it myself.

Thanks, and I'll be getting right back to you!!

[Jaymes]

CEW -

Just an update. I have contacted a friend that teaches Spanish and arranges for people to take these sorts of classes in Spain and Mexico, as well as taking various courses herself.

She is going to check it out with her sources.

And in addition, I have queried Mexican friends that live in Queretaro to see if they are familiar with it, or know of any other affordable schools that might fit the bill for you.

Will get back to you here as soon as I get any responses.

[Jaymes]

Have now checked with several people regarding Instituto Cultural Oaxaca. Seems to be a very good place, indeed. My one friend teaches Spanish in high school and she organizes groups of students to attend school in Mexico each summer. She has visited ICO, and says it's an excellent choice. She said that she has worked out a better deal pricewise for her students with Amigo del Sol in Oaxaca, and so has taken her groups there for the last few years, so you might want to check that out as well.

But it sounds to me like ICO is a fine school. They've been in business for nearly 20 years and have a great reputation. I don't think you could go wrong there.

Plus the Oaxacan food, of course.

Perhaps I'll see you there!!

[joler]

I took Susanna Trillings Cooking Tour of Tuxtepec last summer, great cultural experience, but not much real cooking experience and I was very disappointed in the fact that she did not really encourage a lot of "food conversation". By that I mean, I'd hoped that during dinner we would order a lot of things to share and discuss the different dishes but we did not do that at all - it was more just "order what you want and that's that". I think maybe you get a little more for your $ taking the classes instead of the tours.

I know Las Bugambillias hotel offers cooking classes in Oaxaca - the kitchen there is excellent.

If you are looking for nice, friendly, inexpensive accomodations (but not exceptional food) try Casa Colonial. The owners are American, the rooms are clean and the atmosphere is charming.

Feel free to PM me if you have more questions.

[Jaymes]

Do you recall how much Casa Colonial cost? And where was it, in relation to the Oaxaca city center?

[caroline]

If you are interested in San Miguel, you might consider María Ricaud. I've lived in a nearby town for several years and sent a variety of people to her ranging from complete amateurs to professionals.

Her family is from Oaxaca on one side, Michoacán on the other, so you get two great Mexican traditions. She specializes in homestyle cooking and draws on family manuscript cookbooks going back two hundred years. She's been teaching for a decade, is personable and very knowledgeable, and would tailor classes to your interests. More information from cocimari@hotmail.com

[Jaymes]

I'm interested in San Miguel de Allende. I have good friends in Queretaro. What town is it that you live in?

[cew]

Jaymes, thank you very much for checking into ICO. I've almost settled on going there because it seems that the cooking classes are really an integral part of the language program there, which sounds perfect for me. But in the interests of making fully informed decisions, Caroline, do you know how much it costs to take cooking lessons from Maria Ricaud? Thank you, everyone, for your suggestions. And keep them coming!

[caroline]

The going rate for a three hour class in San Miguel runs between 30 and 40 dollars (there are a number of people who teach there). This would normally either cover a topic (salsas, for example with half a dozen different kinds) or the preparation of a complete meal. I'm sure there are discounts if you want to take a course.