Xi'an is the capital of Shaanxi Province (陕西 - shǎn xī), not to be confused with neighbouring Shanxi Province (山西 - shān xī) and much of its cuisine comes from the surrounding countryside. Another popular winter warmer comes from Qishan County (岐山县 - qí shān xiàn) to the west of the capital.
臊子面 (sāo zi miàn), minced pork noodles, for obvious reasons, is not part of Xi'an's Muslim cultural heritage so don't go looking for it in the Muslim Quarter. The dish consists of fatty pork belly which is minced (or chopped) and cooked in a strongly flavoured stock with vinegar and chilli. Other ingredients can include carrots, tofu, green beans, day lily, eggs, wood-ear fungus, etc.
Beware of bad translations on menus. The first character in the name 臊 (sāo) has more than one meaning. It can mean 'shy' or 'bashful', but the alternative meaning to watch for is 'urine scented'. So, if you see 'urine smell noodles' on the menu, go ahead and order it! The dish does not smell of urine at all. In the local dialect, with the 子 (zi) added, 臊子 (sāo zi) simply means minced or diced meat (as part of a dish).
It is sour, spicy and fragrant.
