Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Nn, M.D.'s Top-Secret Ice Cream Formula (+ variations)


Recommended Posts

This is a recipe that I came up with when I was making choux au craquelin and wanted to fill them with a pastry cream.  I had made the pastry cream using the egg yolks but didn’t want to let the egg whites go to waste.  I decided to make the egg whites into an Italian meringue, which I thought would be fairly stable. But rather than folding it in to preserve that stability, I was impatient and whipped the pastry cream into the meringue.  The result was this loose, soupy mixture that I couldn’t get to stay in a cream puff if I tried. So I gave up and, rather than throw it away, stuck it in the freezer to save it for another recipe.  One day I got curious and decided to give it a taste.  That was the single best bowl of ice cream I had ever had.  I knew I had stumbled onto something, so I’ve tried it with many other flavors and it works almost every time.  The texture is kind of somewhere between a gelato and a semifreddo, and for some reason it takes forever to melt. Just remember to abide by this formula and you will always have success:

Pastry cream:

-      8 oz (1 cup) whole milk (or you can use 6 oz milk + 2 oz heavy cream, 6 oz half/half + 2 oz milk...anything but skim)

-      3 extra large egg yolks

-      2 tbsp cornstarch

-      2-4 tbsp butter, sliced

1.    Place butter slices in bowl and set a wire strainer over top.  Set aside

2.    In a medium saucepan, place your milk (+/- cream) and bring to just below a simmer

3.    Meanwhile, in a heatproof bowl set over a towel, whisk egg yolks and cornstarch together until smooth

4.    When milk has heated, temper into egg mixture, whisking constantly

5.    On medium-low heat, add the custard to the pan and whisk constantly for 3-4 minutes. Custard will go from loose -> shiny and thick -> matte and set.  Do not stop whisking as long as mixture is on the heat

6.    Once custard is set, scrape out of pan into bowl with strainer.  Push mixture through and scrape remaining custard off the bottom of the strainer.  Stir the custard into the butter constantly until butter disappears.  Set aside.

 

Meringue (apologies in advance for switching from standard to metric):

-      300 granulated sugar

-      75g water

-      100-115g egg whites (from 3 extra large/jumbo eggs)

1.    Place egg whites in bowl of a clean stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Set aside.

2.    Over medium-high heat, place water and sugar in saucepan and bring to a rolling boil.

3.    Turn heat down to medium-low. When mixture hits 115˚C, turn on mixer to medium-high to make egg whites frothy.

4.    When syrup reaches 118˚C, remove from the heat and pour into egg whites between the edge of the bowl and the whisk.  Do so in a steady stream to avoid splashing.

5.    Once syrup has been added, turn mixer to high and whisk until you reach stiff peaks, about 6 minutes

 

Bringing it together:

1.    Once meringue is stiff, pour in custard over the top. Turn on the mixer with the whisk attachment to high speed and whisk for 1-2 minutes

2.    You’ll know you’ve finished when you pull the whisk out of the mixture and a string of the cream follows it.  If you still see peaks when you pull of the whisk, keep beating until flattened and loose.

3.    Pour mixture into a bowl and place in a freezer to set up for at least 6 hours.  Then, enjoy!

 

As you can see, it’s a straightforward process that is egg-neutral and has a lot of area for customization.  My only recommendation is that whatever add-ins you choose, make them 6 oz.  That’s just how I did it the first time and every time and the proportion always works. Here's a few variations on the theme that I've done, as well as stupid names I came up for each of them:

-      Salted Chocolate: add 6 oz of bittersweet chocolate to the butter and mix into custard base.  Also add ½ tsp of salt

-      White Winter: Add 2 tsp vanilla extra/paste to milk and bring to just below simmer.  Add 6 oz good-quality white chocolate and 1 tsp white pepper to butter and stir into custard base

-      Glacé Guac: Add 6 oz mashed avocado and zest of a lime to the butter and mix into custard base. Substitute fresh-squeezed lime juice for water in meringue

-      Raspberry Romance: Add 1 oz pulverized freeze-dried raspberry and 5 oz homemade raspberry jam1to the butter and mix into custard base.  Add 1 tbsp rosewater to meringue 3 minutes into whipping

-      Lemon Leisure: Grind 1 tbsp lavender buds with spice grinder/mortar and pestle and steep in milk while bringing to just below a simmer.  Add 6 oz homemade lemon curd2to the butter and mix into custard base

-      Citrus Sunrise: Grind 2 tsp fresh cardamom in mortar and pestle and steep in milk while bringing to just below a simmer.  Substitute fresh squeezed grapefruit juice for water in meringue. Once custard and meringue are mixed, fold in 6 oz candied grapefruit peel3, chopped

-      Country Cornbread: Use 4 tbsp butter for custard base and add ½ tsp of salt.  For meringue sugar syrup use: 154g honey, 125g sugar, 34g water. Once custard and meringue are mixed, fold in 6 oz gluten free cornbread4, cubed

-      The Diplomat: add 6 oz dulce de leche and 1 tbsp of soy sauce to custard base, substitute 3-4 tbsp of brown butter

-      Waterme-ricana: Add 1 tbsp liquid smoke and ½ tsp cinnamon to custard base. Use watermelon juice for meringue liquid and add 6 oz chopped grilled watermelon after combining custard and meringue

-      Chocolate Chunk: Substitute 30g cocoa butter for the butter in the custard base and add vanilla bean paste to steep.  Use 6 oz coarse chopped bittersweet chocolate

-      Cocoa-Sesame Swirl (pictured below) is the most complex flavor to date.  I take the ice cream base and split it in half, one half being sesame-strong, the other half being chocolate-dominant:

fullsizeoutput_b5b.thumb.jpeg.7bc2869cd7cef069884e7a4491068524.jpeg

  • To make the sesame half, add 2.85 oz of tahini and 0.15 oz untoasted sesame oil to the custard base, and substitute 35g cocoa butter instead of regular butter. A few grinds of fresh sea salt is optional. Heat the mixture in a double boiler to melt the cocoa butter.  You will add one half of your pastry cream base to this.
  • To make the chocolate half, make a black sesame praliné with 1.50 oz of black sesame seeds and 1.50 oz of sugar (praliné refers to the process of taking a caramel-nut bark, praline, and grinding it until a paste forms). You should get about 2.50 oz of paste, to which you will add an additional 0.50 oz of cocoa powder and 35g cocoa butter as well as a few grinds of sea salt, not option. Heat the mixture in a double boiler to melt the cocoa butter.  Add the remaining half of the custard base to this mixture.
  • Make two separate meringues (this is more accurate and time consuming than making 1 meringue and dividing it in half. But I have 2 stand mixers so :P) and and mix in your custards to each batch in the usual way.  I added a little black gel food coloring to the black sesame half.  Add dollops to a bowl and swirl with 2-3 figure-8's.

fullsizeoutput_b5c.thumb.jpeg.5c19ba55d308d8045d464db45d974a89.jpeg

 

fullsizeoutput_b61.thumb.jpeg.9263cae86db824abd8549e34b4413bfd.jpeg

 

1.    Raspberry jam: Take 12 oz frozen raspberries, 2 ½ cups sugar, juice of ½ lemon, and 2 tbsp cinnamon and place in medium saucepan with high walls.  Bring to boil on medium-high and then reduce heat to keep mixture at steady boil, around medium heat.  Using instant-read thermometer, heat mixture to 215˚F , which should take about 15 minutes. Check gelling by dropping some jam onto chilled plate and look for jam to set up rather than run.  Optional: sieve jam to remove seeds.

2.    Foolproof lemon curd recipe can be found here

3.    Candied grapefruit peel: This recipe is not exact at all.  Take grapefruit peels and clean all grapefruit flesh and membranes away from pith. Chop into strips and place into medium saucepan. Cover with water, bring to a roiling boil and boil for 10 minutes. Empty water and repeat 2 additional times.  After 3rdboil, measure water needed to cover peels and add the same amount of sugar (to create a simple syrup). Bring mix to boil over medium-high heat, then back head down to keep consistent boil for 45 minutes. Peels should be opaque and look like gems.  Drain syrup and lay peel down on wire rack.  Sprinkle granulated sugar on both sides and allow to air-dry overnight, best at 24 hours.  Store in an airtight container.

4.    Gluten-free corn-cake-bread: Based on a genoise sponge: grind coarse cornmeal in food processor and pass through fine mesh sieve to get 125g of fine cornmeal.  Preheat oven to 350˚F.  Whip 4 room temperature extra large/jumbo eggs (~230-250g) with 125g granulated sugar and 10g honey on high speed until you reach the ribbon stage.  Fold in fine cornmeal and 1tsp salt, then 15g melted and cooled butter.  Make sure not to be too aggressive so as not to lose volume. Pour batter into 9-inch cake tin lined on the bottom with parchment.  Bake for 25 minutes at center rack, remove from oven and let cool for 5 minutes.  Run palette knife around cake edge, invert, and allow to cool completely.

5.    Easy dulce de leche: put can of sweetened condensed milk in slow cooker and cover with water; place on high for 8-10 hours

Edited by Nn, M.D. (log)
  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...

Hey, just made your recipe and it is great! It is outstanding for a home ice cream, beats most of the ice cream i can easily get in my city. Maybe a little too sweet for me but i ll adjust it next time. If you made any more advancements since your last edit i would like to hear it :) . Oh, and the sesame chocolate combination is simply genius.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hey, thanks for trying it out! I'm glad you liked it! I actually just made a huge batch of the salted chocolate flavor this past weekend and I have some thoughts:

  • Regarding the sweetness, I have tried to lower the sugar content in the meringue to around 200g, but have found that the meringue did not have the same pillowy set at the lower sugar level.  The original meringue recipe called for 300g, so I felt like 250g was a good compromise. But if you want to try a lower sugar level, be my guest. I might suggest if you were going to use less sugar that you go with a Swiss meringue instead of an Italian meringue.  Without the additional water from a sugar syrup, the Swiss meringue may be a way to preserve the pillowy meringue and use less sugar.
  • One minor edit I would like to make to the original recipe is that I now exclusively use half-and-half, and no longer add butter at the end to the custard. I have found that H/H gives me the best balance between richness and smoothness, where all milk would be smooth but not rich, and majority cream would be rich but not smooth.  H/H has enough fat in it that I have found adding butter is not necessary.
  • Also a technical change, I no longer aggressively add the meringue to the custard as I did in the written recipe.  I have realized that I like the minimal amount of lift I get from having the meringue folded in in about 2-3 additions, so I have been more gentle with bringing the mixture together. If you like that denser gelato-esque texture, then continue to combine the custard and meringue as before. If you want something a little lighter, try folding in the meringue!
Edited by Nn, M.D. (log)
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Similar Content

    • By Anna N
      Manager's note: This and the subsequent posts were split from https://forums.egullet.org/topic/162768-making-savory-tarts-with-vegetables/.
       
      I am wondering why you think that I might  confuse these preparations with desserts. 
    • By cteavin
      (Recipe Follows)
      I don't have a name for these particular dishes -- I've been making them since university -- and I'd love to hear your ideas on what to call them.

      In short, they are raw or roasted vegetables folded into a Béchamel. You can add (what I call mix-ins) to enrich the flavors, but they are not needed. They simple but elegant and are an excellent way to improve any meal.
      Here is a link to the video detailing all of the steps.
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixqB1HfK_bw
       
      Base
      1 prebaked tart shell or pastry
      2 cups of milk
      40 grams of white flour (approx. 4tbs)
      56 grams of butter (approx. 3 tbs)
      1-2 cups of minced vegetable (broccoli, cauliflower, carrots are good options) OR
      1 -2 cups roasted vegetables, chopped (such as kabocha, turnips, parsnips)Salt to taste.
      Optional Mix-Ins
      1/2 - 1 cup cheese (parmesan or Swiss cheeses are especially good)
      1 teaspoon fresh herbs
      1 egg yolk
      1/8 teaspoon of nutmeg
      Minced bacon or ham
      Make the White Sauce
      In a saucepan melt the butter.
      Add all the flour at once and cook for about 3 minutes.
      With a whisk in hand, add all of the milk at once and stir quickly and constantly until the flour mixture is dissolved. (The milk MUST be cold. If the milk is warm, you will create lumps in the sauce.)
      With a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, continue to stir the mixture until it thickens. This should take 2 - 4 minutes over medium heat.
      Add all of your minced vegetable and stir to incorporate.
      Add in any mix-ins you would like to incorporate.
      If you plan to bake, remove from heat and pour into a prepared tart shell and bake for 40 minutes at 180°C/350°F.
      If you plan to serve without baking, continue to cook on the stove top for 5-10 minutes stirring constantly to "cook" the vegetable to your liking.
      However you prepare it, it will thicken as it cools to room temperature.
      Serve at room temperature or cold.
      Note: As a failsafe, you can prepare a mixture of tablespoon corn/potato starch dissolved in 3 tablespoons water. If your sauce is too liquid by the end of cooking (at the end of step 6) begin to add this solution to the mixture and stir vigorously to quickly thicken the sauce
    • By Umar Abraham
      Ingredients
      4 Strawberry  1 Whole Kiwi  4 tsp Sugar 1  Cup of MilK  3 Mint leaves (Optional) Equipment
      Blender Measuring Cup Instruction
      Peel the Kiwi skins of exposing the green part Combine the strawberry, kiwi, sugar and milk in the measuring cup Blend it together in the blender  Ontop put 3 Mint leaves as garnishing Enjoy 
    • By cteavin
      I've been making these for a decade, my preferred alternative to french fries. They're sliced potatoes layered either with an infused cream or flavorful stock. You can cook them in a flat dish and then fry them, but I've always liked the way the layers look when I bake it in a deep bread pan. I posted a photo last week and people seemed to like it, so I made a video of it (link at the bottom). Either way, here's the cream/milk version of the recipe -- and if this has a proper name, let me know.  
       
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muBHw8SZXwI
       
      Fried Gratinated Potatoes / Fried Scalloped Potatoes 
      Milk/Cream version
       
      Garlic, 1 or 2 cloves (optional)  Herbs: Bay leaf, Thyme, Rosemary, one or all to taste Cream and/or milk, enough to make 2 cups  Potatoes, enough to fill whatever sized dish you are using  Cheese, optional. Parmesan and Gruyere are good choices  Salt, to taste  
      1. Prepare the garlic and herbs. 
      2. Add the milk/cream to a sauce pot with the garlic and whatever herbs you will be using. 
      3. Heat the milk/cream on a low heat to bring to the simmer. Cover and turn off the heat. Leave until it is room temperature then remove the garlic and herb. 
      4. Peel and slice enough potatoes to fit whatever pan you will. be cooking them in. (You do not need to use all of the sauce. You can keep any leftover in the refrigerator for another version later.) 
      5. Dip the potato slices in the milk/cream mixture and layer the potato slices in the pan, then add a layer of the sauce and cheese (if using). You can also brush butter or fat onto the each potato layer to deepen the flavor. 
      6. Cover and bake in a 350F or 180C oven for 1 hour or until the potatoes are done. 
      7. While the dish is still hot, put a sheet of wax paper over it and set upon it something heavy to weigh it down. Doing this will remove all gaps to make clean layers. This step is optional -- unless you are frying. 
      8. When the dish reaches room temperature, you can invert and serve or slice and fry. 
      9. In a pan add whatever fat you will be using and fry slices of the gratin until golden brown. Alternatively, you can broil slices with a lot less oil, be sure to base the slice to avoid burning.
       
      Here's the video if you'd like to see. 
       
       

    • By liuzhou
      When my mother recently passed away, because we are a scattered family, one of my younger brothers had the great idea of setting up a private Facebook page for the immediate family to talk in – mainly about funeral arrangements but also just in general.
       
      One topic, which I inadvertently started, was about her cooking. It’s fair to say, and she would agree, that cooking was not her forte. She was able to feed us but it was never exciting. That’s me being respectful.
       
      So we were joking amongst ourselves about that when the subject of her two most ‘original’ recipes came up and we each tried to remember exactly what was in them. Here, to the best of our ability, is what we agreed on.
       
      Pasta Mish-Mash
       
      Ingredients:
       
      Pasta. This had to be Marshall’s macaroni, a Scottish speciality and the only pasta I ever ate until I was about 18 years-old, apart from tinned spaghetti, usually in the form of spaghetti hoops.
       

       
      Bacon. This would normally be unsmoked Ayrshire back bacon. Not American bacon!
       

       
      Onions. White onions. We didn’t know they came in other colours.
       
      Tomatoes. Scottish tomatoes are surprisingly good.
       
      Salt. Common iodised table salt. You know. Natural salt. None of your fancy sea flavoured salt nonsense!
       

       
      Pepper. Black pre-ground and stale.
       

       
      Method:
       
      Boil pasta according to pack instructions. Or a bit longer if you get distracted. Drain.
       
      Cut bacon into pieces. Chop onion approximately finely. Chop tomatoes into eighths. Fry bacon and vegetables. When ready add drained pasta and mix. Apply seasoning if you remember. Even if you remember, under season.

      Serve.
       
       
      Polish Salad
       
      During WWII, around 17,000 Polish soldiers were stationed in Scotland, first temporarily in the border areas but later in east Scotland where my mother lived. (Her elder sister married one of them). Family lore has it (from my mother) that she learned this recipe from one or more of those soldiers.

      I’m fairly certain that there was little if anything Polish about it, but suppose its possible it was those soldiers’ attempt to recreate something from home without really knowing the recipe and having to use whatever they could find in the way of ingredients.

      If anyone here is Polish, of Polish descent or just knows more about Polish food than I do knows of any Polish dish that this could even vaguely resemble, I’d love to know. It was memorably distinctive - bright purple. I'm sure it glowed in the dark.

      Ingredients:

      Tomatoes
       
      Onions
       
      Apples
       
      Hard boiled eggs

      Pickled beetroot (store bought and pickled in malt vinegar)
       

       
      Heinz Tomato Ketchup

      Brown Sauce, preferably HP Sauce.
       

       
       
      Method:
       
      Chop all the ingredients except the ketchup and brown sauce into small pieces and mix together.
       
      Mix ketchup and brown sauce in a 50:50 ratio, and fold into the other ingredients. If too dry, add a little of the beetroot pickling liquid.
       
      Serve
       
      Father's 'recipe' coming up next.
       
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...