Aimo e Nadia

[Adam Balic]

Absolutely the thing I dislike the most about Italy is the little tomato plants growing on the rail tracks at various stations. Sure they lime the tracks for hygiene reasons but those little are tough and seem to survive specicifically as a reminder of the lack of modern toilets aboad Italian local trains. Those tomato plants are revolting.

[marcus]

I would like to say a few words in support of Italy. With regard to strikes, going back 10+ years, the situation in Italy was really a major problem, but it has moderated significantly, and today the strike situation overall is worse in France. I actually find that logistics in Italy work quite well and there is a lot of flexibility and helpfullness, althought there are exceptions. The trains run much better than in the UK. Germany may be efficient, but it is an unpleasant place overall. I spent 2 years in the Army there in ancient times, and have been back a number of times since. In addition you need to know the rules which are non-trivial. The mealtimes are short and trying to find food outside of these hours can be a real problem, particularly in the countryside. You often can't get lunch after 1:30 or dinner after 8-8:30. I have had this extremely frustrating problem on numerous occasions.

[Steve Plotnicki]

As someone who because of my background had a strong aversion to ever going to Germany, and didn't go until the early 90's, I found it a very pleasant place with beautiful countryside. And the people were very nice and helpful. The food isn't very good though. Except in the springtime when fresh asparagus is in season. They have beauties there that they serve simply steamed and which are served with a butter sauce, steamed potatoes, and raw or cured schenken (ham.) It's a terrific dish.

[Robert Schonfeld]

They have beauties there [asparagus] that they serve simply steamed and which are served with a butter sauce, steamed potatoes, and raw or cured schenken (ham.) It's a terrific dish.

An example of the simple/good box on the matrix

[Steve Plotnicki]

An example of the simple/good box on the matrix

But isn't this really just semantics? The asparagus by itself is not simple tasting at all. It is already complex after a simple boiling or steaming process(sorry to use that word.) And no matter how simple you think it is, pairing it with the starch of the potatoes, and the salty ham, and it isn't really that simple anymore. It's almost like saying a good Aioli is simple. Well it is if you look at it one way, say compared to a bouillabaisse. But it isn't really simple if you look at how complex the flavors are because of the pairings.

[Jaymes]

Absolutely the thing I dislike the most about Italy is the little tomato plants growing on the rail tracks at various stations. Sure they lime the tracks for hygiene reasons but those little are tough and seem to survive specicifically as a reminder of the lack of modern toilets aboad Italian local trains. Those tomato plants are revolting.

Yuck.

I've had Ensalata Caprese many times aboard those trains. I sure hope that wasn't where they got the tomatoes.

[balex]

An example of the simple/good box on the matrix

But isn't this really just semantics? The asparagus by itself is not simple tasting at all. It is already complex after a simple boiling or steaming process(sorry to use that word.) And no matter how simple you think it is, pairing it with the starch of the potatoes, and the salty ham, and it isn't really that simple anymore. It's almost like saying a good Aioli is simple. Well it is if you look at it one way, say compared to a bouillabaisse. But it isn't really simple if you look at how complex the flavors are because of the pairings.

Let me get this straight. You want to argue that plain steamed asparagus is not simple, because otherwise you feel this would undermine your basic complex = good equation. You even used the word 'simply' in your description.

I'm impressed by your dedication to your argument.

[Joe H]

White German asparagus is one of the great vegetables of the world. I've been to restaurants which featured asparagus "festivals" where it might be prepared 15 or 20 different ways. Almost everyone was excellent in the several times I've done this.

About Italy: I just returned from Genoa and Florence with superb meals at Baldin in Genoa and La Fournace di Barbiblu which is a 2100 year old "converted" furnace which helped supply some of the stone for Rome's Coliseum. Now it is a Michelin starred restaurant that is the most unique, original restaurant I have ever eaten in. Also the most difficult to find. I refuse to believe that El Bulli can even be AS difficult no matter what the dirt road is like that leads there! Omero in Florence was a major disappointment as was the ridiculously overpriced Garga which was featured in Savuer's December issue. I should mention that Garga's pasta dish that they are famous for IS as good as it's reputation. Unfortunately this is a one dish restaurant. Great ambience, a lot of fun, just nothing really that special for what they are charging. Il Pizzailulo (sp?) was very good but I have yet to find a pizza in Italy that can compare to Pepe's or Sally's in New Haven. I have also yet to find a coal oven in Italy, Naples included. Parione was a good value with reliable food and Badiani is the best gelato I have yet had in Italy.

Still, La Fournace is a restaurant experience that those on this board should seek out. It is worth the trip for the truly unique (and romantic) experience.

[Robert Schonfeld]

I'm impressed by your dedication to your argument.

If nothing else, Steve is dedicated to his argument.

[peterpumkino]

The food isn't very good though.

Don't ever tell the Germans that! I lived in Munich for 2 years and they constantly told me that the food in Germany was great and when I happened to tell them that the food in London was quite good they all laughed and humoured me. When I asked where they had eaten in London they said places like The Angus Steak House or 'an Italian in Leicester Square' (can you imagine? And yet there's wonderful Chinese food only a block away). Sad.

[Bu Pun Su]

As I searched my pictures for the past Euro trip, I noticed that I missed to write a review of one restaurant in Milan – Il luogo di Aimo e Nadia. The fact that I forgot, this implied that my meal was not really memorable; anyway, I’ll make the report. This family restaurant has been in operation for about 50 years or so (if not mistaken) and its location was not in the strategic/fashionable area of Milan. Perhaps because of this or the fact that it was on Monday, the restaurant was relatively calm – about a dozen people showed up. Therefore, the diners were probably the fans of aimo nadia’s food or some foodies like us who didn’t mind making an extra effort to go ‘out of the way’ a little.

 

The simple dining room with ornamental white ceiling was not big and surprisingly very modern. Additionally, there are plenty of art works (paintings and sculptures) by Paolo Ferrari adorning the walls as well as guest tables – I neither liked nor disliked them. Both the founders, Aimo and Nadia Moroni were no longer working in the kitchen; their daughter – Stefania has been in charge of the business with the help of a couple younger head chefs, only Fabio Pisani was available on that night. For the food, we decided to go for the tasting menu. The cooking was more into traditional Tuscan cuisine (the owner’s native region) instead of “alla Milanese” cooking.

 

The meal started quite good with fried porcini & eggplant with cocoa powder and mozzarella. Followed by a fresh, tender and tasty san remo shrimp with creamy pistachio mayonnaise. After that, we had ‘eturian’ soup with some seasonal vegetables (carrot, bean, wild fennel etc.); the veggie stock/broth was thick and rather heavy – alright.

The staffs brought the next dish seemed to be proud of it: “ravioli” of raw cuttlefish with its black ink. The presentation was quite unique, but it tasted too strong and not that delicious; the tomato ice cream and almond cream on sides did not help either. My favorite dish of the night was next: tortelli with veal ossobuco and white truffle. It was classic, pretty and delicious – also love the ‘cheesy & creamy’ flavors; pasta dishes in Italy were generally amazing!

 

The main course was rather disappointing. The smoked young duck (pleasing on the eye) was a bit too salty and overcooked, hence dry – it was ‘saved’ by its jus and sour cherry sauce. When we brought this up to Chef Pisani (he’s walking around the tables), he just said ok and left to the next table. We noticed that the restaurant was not too pleased when receiving non-positive feedback from customers. No big deal since I would be very unlikely to return here anyway. Both of us opted to skip cheese and as a replacement, we were given the specialty of Puglia - cream of chickpeas with wild chicory, onions and ‘biscuit’; it was fine. Then we had the easy to eat pre-dessert in fennel ice cream covered with chocolate and nuts. For the dessert itself, we had velvety chocolate mousse with red grape ‘soup’, biscuit and wine sorbet; quite pleasant.

 

I heard plenty of good things about this restaurant in particular when both Aimo and Nadia Moroni were still around, which unfortunately we did not really experience it based on this lone visit. The founders’ ideas of combining tradition and creativity were still there, but not so much on the execution and the resulting dishes. We did not have bad meal per se, but it was nothing remarkable either. The food was alright; the staffs just did enough but not so much tried to please/elevate guests’ experiences. Unless you’re a hardcore foodie, taking the extra effort to visit here would not be necessary even when you’re in Milan. I still prefer the classical Milanese menu I had at Cracco several years ago. I don’t mind giving this meal a (low) 2-star Michelin level. I wish them good luck maintaining it, somehow with the current team; I just didn’t see it would attain the 3^rd macaroon … ever.        

 

For pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/7124357@N03/sets/72157651317589512/