edible by Tracey Ryder and CaroleTopalian is a 2010 release. https://www.amazon.com/Edible-Celebration-Local-Carole-Topalian/dp/0470371080 It comes from Edible Communities Publications which celebrates and promotes local farmers. I was thumbing through my copy and stumbled upon an essay on page 125 titled "A Portrait of the Farmer as a Young Man". The piece richly describes that special world of getting produce to market/restaurant in the wee hours. I had a flashback eGullet moment and sure enough his wife did a great blog here in 2005
The book takes you across the country looking at some of the different tacks farmers and food producers are taking to survive and sometimes even thrive.