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weinoo

A Small NYC Kitchen Reno 2017

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4 hours ago, dcarch said:

Very beautiful board. Weights a ton. Have your wood shop make a smaller one with matching wood for heavy chopping.

 

Beautiful project. Worth all the aggravations and $$$.

 

dcarch

 

I actually will not cut/chop much, if at all, on the butcher block - I have a beautiful, end grain, thick cutting board for that, from the Boardsmith in Pennsylvania.

 

And for real chopping, such as hacking up a chicken, I pull out an old wood or plastic board and a heavy Chinese cleaver, and go to town!

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13 hours ago, weinoo said:

 

I think my copper pipes touched each other inappropriately.

 

 

This sucks, and so sorry to hear. From everything I've ever read, sell the house as-is.  Some minor cosmetic freshen-up might not be a terrible idea, but most people, when they buy a house or apartment, want to do it in their own inimitable style.

 

 

In almost every market, you will not get your money out of doing repairs or upgrades.  In some market conditions, a few small changes (paint is the most common, easy one) will make a house sell faster, but probably not for more money. 

If there is something like a leaking roof, though, fixing that will prevent damage, and is a selling point. 

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The first home we owned was a flat roofed one that leaked all too often.  Can't tell you how many tubes of Black Jack we squeezed

on that thing!  When we listed the house I asked the realtor about how to respond if asked if the roof leaked.  She told us that if it

wasn't leaking when the question was asked, I should just say "no".  I have always been grateful that no one asked the question.

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On 12/8/2017 at 7:00 AM, weinoo said:

This arrived, and is being given some extra tlc before I let it get installed.

 

5a2a8c7e6fa0d_2017_12_0704288.thumb.JPG.4db426099c2a317fccf3191e82bb0990.JPG

 

It's from a woodworking company in Massachusetts, called Sprague Woodworking. Maple, beautiful job they did. Got it when they said I would, just 2 weeks from the date of order until delivery. Quite reasonable.

 

What does everyone think  - can you over-oil a board?

 

I don't think you can over-oil a board, especially if you live in a dry climate. We brought a 3 x 5 Boos countertop for an island counter in our kitchen when we moved down here, and I find I have to oil it frequently during the dry season. Of course I use it as a big cutting board and prep area which beats it up a little bit, so I keep a bottle of mineral oil around for touch ups. And when we go away for a day or 2 we oil it heavily before we leave. I think you'll find that you'll need to oil it periodically to keep it looking as beautiful as it does now. It is a gorgeous hunk of wood, isn't it?

 

And my sympathies for your remodeling woes. There's nothing quite so disheartening as looking at the mess of tools and materials lying around your kitchen. You're fortunate to have access to another apartment while yours is in ruins. Fingers crossed that you'll be finished enough by the end of the year to move back in.

 

Nancy in Pátzcuaro

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On 12/8/2017 at 9:02 PM, IowaDee said:

The first home we owned was a flat roofed one that leaked all too often.  Can't tell you how many tubes of Black Jack we squeezed

on that thing!  When we listed the house I asked the realtor about how to respond if asked if the roof leaked.  She told us that if it

wasn't leaking when the question was asked, I should just say "no".  I have always been grateful that no one asked the question.

 

A roofer who was working on the roof of the shop I used to work in said "They are two kinds of flat roofs.  The ones that leak today, and the ones that leak tomorrow."

 

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34 minutes ago, dscheidt said:

A roofer who was working on the roof of the shop I used to work in said "They are two kinds of flat roofs.  The ones that leak today, and the ones that leak tomorrow."

 

There are three kinds of flat roofers. The one who gives you flat roof that leak today, and the other gives you flat  roof that leak tomorrow.

However if done by a qualified roofer who knows how to build, flat roofs should not leak.

But back to kitchen /home renovations. Plan carefully. Due to major hurricanes and fires, significant labor and material shortage is here and will be much worst in the coming months (may be years).

 

dcarch

 

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The "still-to-do" list is long, with things like finishing the kitchen tile/grout, fixing the smallish hole in our bedroom wall, which I hadn't noticed until yesterday (it came from the installation of the shower door - the walls in our building suck) and restoring the electricity that somehow got cut-off where it feeds to my desk/office area, but we are finally able to move back into our apartment over the next few days (as it was promised to me by Christmas).  So while we won't be totally finished by year-end, which was my goal, we'll be damn close.  The punch list (one or two cabinet panels, touch up paint, floor molding, final finish on the kitchen floor, mounting hanging rails, etc.) is what I'd normally expect a punch list to be. By the way, if I ever do this again, shoot me. You'd think one would learn after doing this once with our full-gut reno of an apartment in DC, but it's amazing what contractors can come up with to give you agita (like how do you lose the Franke stopper for the Franke drain for the Franke sink? Morons.)

 

The vanity/washbasin nightmare that exists in our bathroom (vanity arrived damaged from Germany, after waiting for it for 10 weeks) has been temporarily solved, as we got a floor model loaner from the plumbing supply store (and it actually looks ok).

 

The last few days have been crazy; the cabinet/drawer fronts and panels arrived Tuesday, and were installed by Wednesday evening, since no one plans to be here today or during the week between Christmas and New Year's Day (though the electrician may come by on Friday).  We still owe a fair chunk of change to our contractors (over 30% of the cost) and "project managers," which won't get paid till the job is done to my satisfaction, so at least I have that going for me - they'll all come back.

 

And I think it will have been worth the wait. Or at least I hope it will have...

 

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The perspective of the sink in the top picture is interesting, as the sink is actually quite a bit larger than our old one. And all the LED overhead lights have not yet been installed, nor have they been adjusted to the right locations.

 

That's my trusty 15-year old Miele vacuum, which I think will see a lot of use this weekend. That custom-made 9' wooden shelf in the second picture is gorgeous; it has dimmable LED lighting in a channel underneath, and it will get a hanging rail on the wall underneath it as well. I'm using the Rösle open kitchen rail system, mostly just with hooks.

 

Oh - two things:

 

1. If I never see a contractor again (at least not once the job is finished), I won't be upset. 2. Wouldn't it be nice if ceilings, floors and walls in NYC buildings were actually square and level? They're not.

 

Merry Christmas!


Edited by weinoo (log)
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In spite of all that aggravation, things are looking good. It looks like a well crafted and well thought out space.

HC

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Fantastic @weinoo! Dramatic lighting and beautiful finished work. Completely agree about never doing it again. It was a year ago we did ours and the bad memories  linger.

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53 minutes ago, HungryChris said:

In spite of all that aggravation, things are looking good. It looks like a well crafted and well thought out space.

HC

 

18 minutes ago, gfweb said:

Fantastic @weinoo! Dramatic lighting and beautiful finished work. Completely agree about never doing it again. It was a year ago we did ours and the bad memories  linger.

 

Thanks.  I think I did a halfway decent job on the design of the kitchen, especially for its utility.

 

The designers certainly worked their magic with the lighting.

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Oh it's so beautiful!!!

 

Yeah, just the mention of "contractor" sends me screaming and running as fast as I can to get away.

 

I'm with you on the square/level thing, too.  Our 100 year old farmhouse has some serious issues with that stuff lol.

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2 hours ago, weinoo said:

1. If I never see a contractor again (at least not once the job is finished), I won't be upset. 2. Wouldn't it be nice if ceilings, floors and walls in NYC buildings were actually square and level? They're not.

 

1. Do not pay final payment to the GC. Ask your expeditor what the GC needs to supply him with to close out the project with the DOB. Or else it will take you years of phone calls.

2. Buildings were not square and level because they were built before laser tools.

3. Get a smoke bomb and turn on your exhaust and see how it pulls air out from your kitchen.

 

Looking very good for Christmas, which is a few hours away.

dcarch


Edited by dcarch (log)

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@weinoo

 

what an outstanding looking kitchen !

 

congratulations !

 

I can see many meals happily made there.

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@weinoo, it looks spectacular! You did a wonderful job on design. I really like how light and bright it looks, important to me in a kitchen. I'm not sure about your actual square footage, but that kitchen looks very spacious! Love the white cabinets AND ALL THOSE DRAWERS! I have never had enough drawers. How long is that kitchen? Wonderful to have two big pantry storage cabinets in there. 

 

I know it's been a hassle and slower than you hoped, but it really does look good. And the not-quite-square-and-level surprises happened to us at times even in newer homes. 

 

Can I get you to redesign my kitchen? xD

 

And can we get final pics when the last bits are complete? Any chance of a final pic of the bathroom? 

 

Happy Holiday cooking in your new kitchen! 

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1 hour ago, FauxPas said:

@weinoo, it looks spectacular! You did a wonderful job on design. I really like how light and bright it looks, important to me in a kitchen. I'm not sure about your actual square footage, but that kitchen looks very spacious! Love the white cabinets AND ALL THOSE DRAWERS! I have never had enough drawers. How long is that kitchen? Wonderful to have two big pantry storage cabinets in there. 

 

I know it's been a hassle and slower than you hoped, but it really does look good. And the not-quite-square-and-level surprises happened to us at times even in newer homes. 

 

Can I get you to redesign my kitchen? xD

 

And can we get final pics when the last bits are complete? Any chance of a final pic of the bathroom? 

 

Happy Holiday cooking in your new kitchen! 

Thank you!

 

I think the thing about designing a kitchen is that it's very personal, certainly based on the way one cooks. I tend to cook alone, so this works nicely for me. The kitchen is almost 14' long by about 7'6"...we picked up a little space by moving the doorway to the middle, and also when we knocked down the wet wall it was rebuilt adding about 2" width.

 

The cabinets are actually a light grey, and the counter top is Caesarstone's raw concrete, a nice matte.

 

I'll take some bathroom pictures this afternoon; I'm attempting to at least clean enough for us to be able to move back in, though I'm sure the place will get messy when the contractors come back to finish working. At which point I'll really take some pix! 

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Oh, keep an eye on the Ceasarstone - on another forum people have been reporting problems like stains from water rings, not even from spills. :(

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“2. Buildings were not square and level because they were built before laser tools.”

 

Buildings are not plumb, level, and square because the ‘craftsmen’ now rely on cheap gadgets. 

 

The plumb bob, water level, and the teachings of Pythagoras seem lost. 

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1 hour ago, Spork said:

“2. Buildings were not square and level because they were built before laser tools.”

 

Buildings are not plumb, level, and square because the ‘craftsmen’ now rely on cheap gadgets. 

 

The plumb bob, water level, and the teachings of Pythagoras seem lost. 

I’m neither a builder nor a scientist but I do know that over time even the squarest building will settle and there goes your square. 

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3 minutes ago, Anna N said:

I’m neither a builder nor a scientist but I do know that over time even the squarest building will settle and there goes your square. 

 

Settling has its consequences. But, if foundation issues show in cabinet work we need to reasess the integrity of the entire structure.  

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5 hours ago, weinoo said:

Thank you!

 

I think the thing about designing a kitchen is that it's very personal, certainly based on the way one cooks. I tend to cook alone, so this works nicely for me. The kitchen is almost 14' long by about 7'6"...we picked up a little space by moving the doorway to the middle, and also when we knocked down the wet wall it was rebuilt adding about 2" width.

 

The cabinets are actually a light grey, and the counter top is Caesarstone's raw concrete, a nice matte.

 

I'll take some bathroom pictures this afternoon; I'm attempting to at least clean enough for us to be able to move back in, though I'm sure the place will get messy when the contractors come back to finish working. At which point I'll really take some pix! 

Significant Eater does not cook?  I am the cook in the family which suits me just fine most of the time but occasionally I fantasize about an eGullet imaginary friend cooking with me ;)

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7 hours ago, quiet1 said:

Oh, keep an eye on the Ceasarstone - on another forum people have been reporting problems like stains from water rings, not even from spills. :(

Thanks - please show us that forum.

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7 hours ago, Spork said:

“2. Buildings were not square and level because they were built before laser tools.”

 

Buildings are not plumb, level, and square because the ‘craftsmen’ now rely on cheap gadgets. 

 

The plumb bob, water level, and the teachings of Pythagoras seem lost. 

 

There are advanced tools for any kind of uneven, un-square, un-level walls.

 

dcarch


Edited by dcarch (log)

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Some more pix.

 

5a3d0032d153e_2017_12_2104983.thumb.JPG.e5caa3f7c1855aacfa3d823961fd765c.JPG

LED track lights.

 

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My pegboard (stainless steel) corner.  Designer kept trying to talk me out of pegboard. I found this company online, ordered it, and guess what - he actually likes it (like I care if he likes something or not).

 

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Walk in shower. Temporary vanity, only standing on legs, not attached to wall.

 

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Dimmable lights; here my designer did a good job by finding these. Custom floating wood shelves.

 

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All kitchen stuff, packed into our bedroom (which we are moving back into tonight).

 

Obligatory range shot.

 

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Shelf to be added as soon as I can get all that damn protective covering off the riser.

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by weinoo (log)
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      The temperature function was a lot closer to true when simply preheating an empty pan. With a setting of 350F, all the shiny stainless pans heated to just a few degrees higher (about 353-357F) and held there. This is useful for judging the Leidenfrost Point (which is the heat at which you can oil your SS and have it cook relatively nonstick) and potentially for “seasoning” carbon steel, SS and aluminum, but not much else, since it doesn’t translate to actual food temperature. There’s also the issue of the temperature settings *starting* at 285F, so holding a lower temperature for, e.g., tempering chocolate or a sous vide bath, or even a simmer would be by-guess-by-golly just like any other hob—your only resort is lots of experience with lower *power* settings.
       
      With heat-tarnished copper, a 350F setting resulted in a wide swinging between 353F and 365F, which I attribute to the copper shedding heat far faster than the other constructions, once the circuit stops the power at temperature. Then, when the circuit cycles the power back on, the copper is so responsive that it quickly overshoots the setting. Aluminum, on the other hand, *undershot*, the 350F setting, registering a cycle of 332-340F.

      I conclude that the IR sensor is set for some particular emissivity, probably for that of stainless steel. If true, the Panasonic, even though it automatically switches frequencies, does not compensate for the different emissivities of copper and aluminum. And even if Panasonic added dedicated aluminum and copper IR sensors, there is enough difference between dirty and polished that the added cost would be wasted. Bottom line here: the temperature setting mode is of extremely low utility, and should not be trusted.
       
      B. Power Mode – Pan Material Comparisons
       
      Given the differences in power setting granularity and maximum power between the two frequencies, it is difficult to assess what X watts into the pot means in, say, a copper-versus-clad or –disk showdown. What is clear, however, is that Setting X under disk and clad seems “hotter” than the same setting under copper and aluminum.

      I will need to precisely calibrate the Panasonic for wattage anyway for the hyperconductivity project, so I will obtain a higher-powered watt meter to determine the wattage of every power setting for both frequencies. Until then, however, the only way I can fairly handicap a race is to apply a reduction figure to the ferromagnetic setting (2400W being 69% of 3500W). Given that we know the wattage at the maximum settings, we can infer that Setting 14 (actually 13.8) on the 20-step ferromagnetic range iis approximately the same heat output as the maximum setting (18) for copper/aluminum.

      The boil times for 4 liters of 50F water in 10” diameter pots shocked me. The 10” x 3mm tinned copper pot’s water reached 211F in 36:41. Not an especially fast time at 2400 watts. The 10” disk-based pressure cooker bottom? Well, it didn’t make it—it took an hour to get to 208F and then hung there. So that left me wondering if the Panasonic engineers simply decided that 2400 watts was enough for copper and aluminum. I have a theory why the copper pot boiled and the SS one didn’t under the same power, but getting into that’s for another time.

      C. Evenness Comparisons
       
      The wires which generate the induction field are wound in a circular pattern; when energized, they create a torus-shaped magnetic field. The wound coil is constructed with an empty hole at its center. As matters of physics, the magnetic field’s intensity drops off extremely fast as a function of the distance from the coil; a few millimeters above the Ceran, the field is so weak no meaningful heat will be generated. This means that most induction cooktops heat *only* the very bottom of pans, and in a distinct 2-dimensional “doughnut” shape.

      All of the above can result in a pan having a cooler central spot, a hotter ring directly over the coil, and a cooler periphery outside the coil. It is left to the cookware to try to even out these thermal discontinuities when cooking. Some materials and pan constructions are better at this than others: the successful constructions utilize more highly-conductive metals such as aluminum and copper, but unless the material is very thick, there can be a ring-shaped hotspot that can scorch food.
      Until the Panasonic arrived to market, hotspot comparisons between ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper pans depended largely on comparing induction’s flat, more discrete heat ring with gas’s more diffuse, 3-dimensional one. Dodgeball-style debate ensued, with few clear conclusions. But now, for the first time, equally-powered flat heat rings in two different frequencies allow us to directly compare evenness in ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper cookware.

      The simplest and easiest way to assess cookware evenness is the “scorchprint”, which does not require infrared or other advanced thermal imaging equipment. I’ve posted on how to conduct scorchprinting elsewhere, but basically a pan is evenly dusted with flour; heat is applied to the pan bottom. As the flour is toasted, any hotspots visually emerge, giving the viewer a useful general idea of evenness.
       
      I will later post the photos of scorchprints I made of 4 different pans run using the Panasonic KY-MK3500: (1) a Demeyere 28cm Proline 5* clad frypan; (2) a Fissler Original Profi disk-base 28cm frypan; a 6mm aluminum omelet pan; and (4) a 32cm x 3.2mm Dehillerin sauté. To make it a fair race, I heated all the pans at 2400W until they reached 450F, and then backed off the power setting to maintain 450F. I did this in order not to compromise my saute’s tin lining. As you will see, both the clad Demeyere and the disk-based Fissler did print the typical brown doughnut, with a cooler center and periphery. By far the most even was the thick, all-aluminum pan, which actually was even over its entirety—even including the walls. The copper sauté was also quite even, although its larger size and mass really dissipated heat; once 450F was dialed in, no more browning happened, even after 30 minutes.
       
      I conclude that the straightgauge pans were far more effective at shunting heat to their peripheries and walls (and also to some extent into the air) than the clad and disk-based pans. The latter accumulated their heat with most of it staying in the center of the pans. Eventually, even the “doughnut hole” blended into the scorch ring because the walls were not bleeding sufficient heat away from the floor. This was especially pronounced in the Fissler, the high wall and rim areas of which never exceeded 125F. The aluminum pan, in contrast varied less than 30F everywhere on the pan.

      D. Other Considerations

      The Panasonic’s fan noise at the cook’s position was noticeable at 63 dBA, higher than with the VMP’s 57 dBA. These levels are characterized as “normal conversation” and “quiet street”, respectively. Interestingly, I found two other, potentially more important differences. First, the Panasonic’s fan stays on, even after the unit is powered off, whereas the VMP’s fan shuts off immediately when the hob is turned off. Second, the Panasonic’s fan steps down from the louder speed to a much quieter (47 dBA, characterized as “quiet home”) level until the Ceran is cool to sustained touch, at which point it shuts off completely. I think the Panasonic’s ability to continue to vent and cool itself is a great feature, especially since a cook could leave a large, full, hot pan on the glass.

      The glowing circle is useless for gauging heat setting or intensity. And while it works to indicate a hot surface, it remains lit long after you can hold your hand in place dead center.
       
      VI. Summary and Lessons
       
      The Panasonic KY-MK3500 is a solid unit, well-conceived and rugged. It is extremely easy to use. It works well with both the common 24kHz frequency used with ferromagnetic cookware, and the 90kHz frequency chosen here for copper and aluminum. It effectively and automatically switches between the two.

      In my opinion, it points the way to expanding the worldwide induction appliance market to include dual frequencies. It also obviates the need to: (a) junk otherwise excellent cookware merely to have induction; and (b) retrofit designs to bond on ferromagnetic outer layers. In fact, in my opinion, my tests indicate that, in a dual-frequency world, adding ferromagnetic bottoms may well be a drag on pans’ performance.
       
      I also consider the Panasonic Met-All to be ground-breaking in what it can tell us about *pans*, because all metallic pans are now commensurable on induction. Clearly (to me anyway), watt-for-watt, the copper and aluminum pans performed better than did the clad and disk-based pans on this unit. Boil times were faster, there was less propensity to scorch, and the conductive-sidewall pans definitely added more heat to the pans’ contents. We may ultimately find that 90kHz fields save energy compared to 24kHz fields, much as copper and aluminum require less heat on gas and electric coil.
      In terms of heat transfer, the copper and aluminum pans came close to emulating the same pans on gas. And at 2400W/3500W it has the power of a full size appliance in a relatively small tabletop package.
       
      The Panasonic is far from perfect, however. It can’t really be considered portable. There are far too few temperature settings, and what few it has are not accurate or consistent in terms of judging pan contents and attaining the same temperature in different pans (and even the same pan unless clean). The luminous ring could easily have been made a useful indicator of intensity, but wasn’t. And it lacks things that should be obvious, including a through-the-glass “button” contact thermocouple, more power granularity, an analog-style control knob, and capacity to accept an external thermocouple probe for PID control.
       
      Most importantly for me, the Panasonic KY-MK3500 portends more good things to come. Retail price remains $1,700-$2,400, but I jumped on it at $611, and I’ve seen it elsewhere for as low as $1,200.
       
      The manual can be found here: ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/commercialfoo...
       
      Photo Credit:  Panasonic Corporation

    • By haresfur
      We have started into fixing the kitchen after starting planning several years ago - almost as long as the dishwasher has been dead and the oven barely functional. And don't get me started on the non-exhaust fan.
       
      Before the destruction but after removing all the crap:
       

       
       
       

       
      The fridge was replaced not too long ago and is staying where it is. We had to have its alcove expanded. Perhaps not the best ergonomic location but it fits. We aren't moving the other appliances or sink very far so are hoping the plumbing and electric are no big deal.
       
      End of first day. We caught a couple of things in time. The fume hood and cupboards over the cook-top were set too low. They were going to set the sink as an over-mount when we had bought and under-mount. Apparently it could be done either way but silly us for not making it clear that the sink described as an undermount should be under the counter top. We decide the cupboard to the right of the oven should open the other way so we can get in there when cooking. Our mistake but I hope we can keep the oil, salt, pepper, etc. there rather than cluttering up the counter. The cabinet guy insisted that the cook-top couldn't be centred over the oven. I still don't understand why but not a big deal. It will be easier to get around the island when someone else is cooking but harder to squeeze past into the pantry.
       
      It seems to me that the walls should have been re-done before the cabinets went up. I think this was easier on the cabinet guy who is doing most of the coordination but probably will be a pain for the plasterer. And we have some trim issues to work out.
       

       

       

       
      Day 2 fixing things, electrical work, and measuring for the countertops. Now we wait for them to be finished before much else can happen.
       

       
      Spock is not impressed.
       
       
    • By &roid
      We’ve lived in our house for about twelve years and did a small extension not long after we moved in. With our growing family (son number two arrived this July) we wanted to get a bit more living space so started looking at options about a year ago. We have a late Victorian house with a separate dining room, as nice as this is it’s been a big waste of space - we probably used it two or three times a year. So the plan was to extend the kitchen to add a decent sized dining area and free up the dining room for something better. 
       
      The kitchen we had is under ten years old so we’ve decided to keep some parts of it, adding new worktops, a large rangetop and a breakfast cabinet with pocket doors to hide away the toaster and coffee machine. 
       
      We’re about halfway through the build at the moment so thought I’d post up some pictures of our progress. Hopefully we’ll be finished this side of Christmas... hopefully!
    • By chocoera
      Hi guys!  So...as we all know hindsight is 20/20....so i'm sure we ALLLLLLLLLLLL  have things we'd do differently if setting up our home or professional workplaces.  I'm working with a space that's approximately 850 sq ft.  If you could create your ideal space, what would you do?  The kicker is, i'm a mixed media kitchen, i dont do straight chocolate work.  I do baking so i'll have a double vertical convection oven, i'm getting rid of my 6 burner range and switching to table top induction burners. I have a dishwasher and big sink for rinsing vs 3 compartment sink (hand sink of course) and mop sink....and i have multiple 7 ft and 8 ft stainless tables. I currently have a "cooling room" set up with 4 speed racks, but thought maybe i should switch to a fridge turned up to 40 or 50F? I freeze things for bulk production, so will still have some chest freezers set higher than normal....but yeah. i'm just at a loss of how to capitalize on space, and keep things organized and storage of bon bons, turtles, barks, chocolate caramel apples (things that need to be stored for packaging by employees before they hit the retail floor)  i know jin from vegas had a fridge set at 50F for cooling molds once sprayed and shelled, then once she filled them, moved to a 40F fridge to set filling, then she sealed them...but i didn't remember where she kept bon bons for her bar (where customers pick and choose) or the ones out ready to be boxed?  i know she and jean marie were freezing for bulk orders etc...but yeah.  my mind is just overwhelmed with possibilities, and i just dont want to mess up this new kitchen layout. i think its harder because i make so many things in my kitchen, so i have pots, pans, sheet pans, springforms, cookie cutters, muffin tins, kitchen aid mixers, a floor mixer,  mol d'arts, baking liners, molds, colors, EZ temper, brushes, kitchen utensils, transfer sheets, bulk chocolate and ingredients blah blah blah.   so. if you guys could make an ideal workflow....would you do a walk-in fridge for confection storage? a few fridges set higher (but would humidity be an issue if stored for multiple days before packaging), build another cooling room (it was a room with drywall/insulation/a door/speedracks and portable AC set to keep that room cooler...), or yeah.  thoughts?  oh yeah. and  i need to fit an enrober in there too.  sooooo, ideal workspace. what's in it?  and go!  :0)
    • By ChefDavid84
      Hi, I'm David. I'm in the process of starting a new venture, and need some advice. I'm starting a catering company to cater to 4 golf courses, and hope to expand into other offsite catering after a year or so. I'm looking for a space to put a central kitchen to cook everything, and truck it out from there. We will be serving about 1200 people per weekend. Im having trouble visualizing how big of a kitchen space I'm going to need, and am having trouble finding anything online to help calculate the size of said space. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.    Thanks in advance,   Chef David
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