Sherry Vinegar

[paulraphael]

I've been on a bit of a bender.

 

 

After discovering Despaña here in NYC, I can't stop. It's become my acid of choice for most dishes, and also a savoriness enhancer. And in some cases a sweetener. And not a bad stocking-stuffer.

 

Left to right:

 

1) Columela Solera 30.

This isn't from Despaña. It's a brand you can get on Amazon and at a decent number of specialty grocers. The grape variety is unnamed, which almost always means it's a palomino vinegar, which is the most common and least sweet. It claims to be 30-years old, but is tastes like (and is priced like) the youngest among these here. About $14 for a 375ml bottle. This is my everyday basic vinegar. When it runs out, I'm going to try a Bodega Paez Morilla version, called "Gran Gusto." This is available from Despaña and costs $7 for the same size.

 

2) Montegrato Pedro Ximénez XVI years.

This is my favorite. Deep, dark, woody, nutty, savory, sweet, syrupy awesome. For whenever this more complex and assertive flavor profile is called for. As with Amarone wines, Pedro Ximinez sherry is made from grapes that are sun-dried, taking on the depth and savor of raisins. About $17 for a 375ml bottle.

 

3) Bodega Paez Morilla Moscatel.

I just got this and haven't had much chance to use it. Moscatel is the 3rd standard sherry vinegar type. This is sweeter than the palominos, less complex than the pedro ximenez. The sweetness has more of a pear / grape quality than the PX's raisin quality. Pretty expensive: about $15 for a 250ml bottle. Probably only worth using if a dish really features its flavor. I doubt I'll buy again. But delicious.

 

4) Montegrato Fino Reserva XVI years.

I just bought this a 2nd time ... had stumbled onto it at Whole Foods years ago and bought out of curiosity without knowing what it was. It's a palomino vinegar made with the Fino process, and aged long enough to earn the 'Reserva' designation. Tastes very different from other palomino vinegars I've had. Very light, bright, and fruity, but completely smooth. Apple-like acidity. This is the most expensive one here: $20 for 250ml. As good as it is, I doubt I'll buy again. Delicious, just not the best value for me.

 

5) Bodega Paez Morilla Reserva 25 years.

Another higher-end palomino vinegar. Definitely tastes more complex and smoother than the Columela, but once it's in a dish the difference is pretty insignificant. $11 for 250 ml. I probably won't buy again.

 

6) L'Estornell grenache vinegar.

Not really a sherry vinegar, but Spanish, and has been a staple of mine for a long time. Available from Amazon and Whole foods. Lighter and less complex than the sherry vinegars, and has a bright, raspberry-like sweetness that brings a lot of things to life, including simple vinaigrettes. $10 for 250ml. 

 

A note on the ages: Sherry vinegar uses a complex aging system called "solera," in which younger vinegars are added to older vinegars in stages. So any sherry vinegar is a mix of young, medium, and old. The age on the label is determined by some kind of average, which I'm guessing isn't rigorously standardized (you can't count on one company's 30 year-old tasting more aged than another company's 15 year-old). But in general, it explains how something with such a long bottle age can be so reasonably priced. It also probably contributes to the unique complexity of this stuff.

Edited June 7, 2017 by paulraphael (log)

[blue_dolphin]

Thank you for taking the time to share this, @paulraphael - I gotta try that PX vinegar!

That Columela is the sherry vinegar I usually use.  For a while, my local Total Wine was selling the L'Estornell grenache vinegar at a good price (6-7 bucks, I think) but sadly, they don't carry it anymore so I will have to turn to Amazon to get my fix.  It's really a lovely red wine vinegar.

[paulraphael]

I'll report back when I get a chance to try the Gran Gusto. I'm hoping it's at least as nice as the Columela.

[weinoo]

First thing I was going to say when I saw the pictures - you've discovered Despana!

 

The trick is to go around 11:45 AM!

[paulraphael]

Ok, I'll bite ... what happens at 11:45?

 

Jamón giveaway?