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johnnyd

Rancho Gordo in the NYT... again!!

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Who doesn't love it when your passion is recognized by the Old Grey Lady?

 

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/28/dining/black-bean-soup-recipe-video.html?ref=dining

 

“I believe you have to show the beans who’s boss,” he said. “Then they will obey you, and your recipe.”

- Steve Sando

 

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"I took the habit of asking Pierre to bring me whatever looks good today and he would bring out the most wonderful things," - bleudauvergne

foodblogs: Dining Downeast I - Dining Downeast II

Portland Food Map.com

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Indeed, I saw this yesterday, and my project for tomorrow is RG black bean soup.  But unless Steve comes on here and disputes otherwise I think delaying salt is horrible advice.

 

Even if Steve comes on here and disputes otherwise I think delaying salt is horrible advice.

 

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Depends on what you're after. I find the later you delay deploying salt, the more the beans remain front and center.

 

I make feijoada every six or so weeks which get a couple smoked ham hocks for three hours, so I'll get this nice emulsion. Salt isn't necessary but the beans rule the dish. Feijoada also calls for salted beef - when I've used it, the beans brake down too much, but in Brazil, that's the traditional way to serve it. Toasted cassava is served as a side to mix with your black bean 'sauce' to bring back body. 

 

So in this way, black beans are used more as a medium instead of a star player. I'd rather there were beans on the plate after a three, four hour simmer, so no more salted beef, the hocks seem to do what I want instead.

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"I took the habit of asking Pierre to bring me whatever looks good today and he would bring out the most wonderful things," - bleudauvergne

foodblogs: Dining Downeast I - Dining Downeast II

Portland Food Map.com

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Posted (edited)

Steve also has a full page ad in Culture magazine.  This is the magazine devoted to all things cheese so I was surprised to see his very beautiful ad in there.  He sure has come along way since he first appeared on eG.  Even though I'm not a bean eater I am always pulling for Rancho Gordo.  


Edited by Anna N (log)
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Anna Nielsen aka "Anna N"

...I just let people know about something I made for supper that they might enjoy, too. That's all it is. (Nigel Slater)

"Never call a stomach a tummy without good reason.” William Strunk Jr., The Elements of Style

Our 2012 (Kerry Beal and me) Blog

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His ad was the first thing I saw when our copy of Culture came.  My husband calls it "bean porn."

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You've all made me very happy! 
The NYTimes was amazing. I got a call from the very talented Julia Moskin. I play a little game where I get the newsletter and see what they're covering and I try and guess who wrote the article/recipe based on the title. I'm normally pretty right! There's a Bittman-type recipe, a Florence Fabricant old school NY type recipe, etc. The Tanis ones are very easy to spot. You get your kicks where you can! 
So anyway, it was fun talking to her and she asked about this or that  and I thought I'd have a line in an article about Black Bean Soup. I couldn't believe how nice she was and how much ink she gave me! 
The recipe seems solid but it's not mine and everyone seems to think it is. I hope she doesn't mind. 

I don't! 

 

re salt, I salt when the pot starts smelling like beans. They aren't done in any sense but you know there's no turning back. I think you can salt earlier but I'm so cheap I don't want this to be the one time when it doesn't work. I like to salt as early as possible though  because I don't like salty broth and bland beans and it takes awhile to season the beans. 

 

The comments section is a little depressing. They go on and on about the necessity of "degassing" the beans by soaking them for an hour in hot water and then pouring off the soaking water. Not one, but many people think this. I think all it does is give you purple beans as you strip away any color. 

 

The funny thing is, after 15 years, I'm starting to think, "This thing is working!" 
I still can't relax but I'm letting the staff buy bulk supplies these days as we're in it for the long run, 
 

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Visit beautiful Rancho Gordo!

Twitter @RanchoGordo

"How do you say 'Yum-o' in Swedish? Or is it Swiss? What do they speak in Switzerland?"- Rachel Ray

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10 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

As promised:  dinner of NY Times RG black bean soup.

 

Need to stress, this is Julia Moskin's recipe, not ours.
Hopefully the beans are ours!


Visit beautiful Rancho Gordo!

Twitter @RanchoGordo

"How do you say 'Yum-o' in Swedish? Or is it Swiss? What do they speak in Switzerland?"- Rachel Ray

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8 hours ago, rancho_gordo said:

 

Need to stress, this is Julia Moskin's recipe, not ours.
Hopefully the beans are ours!

 

Yes the beans are yours...well, they're mine now.

 

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Two weeks ago I was doing a private home cooking class teaching folks how to make meatballs and marinara sauce.  The host went into her pantry and come out with this bag of beans.  She asked me if I had ever heard of Rancho Gordo.  What a wonderful moment.  She had no clue I was a volunteer staff member at eGullet and didn't know the background of Rancho Gordo.  I told her the story and then she asked me if I had ever made cassoulet.  Then she asked me to do another private home cooking class on Cassoulet.  How lucky can I be?  She's ordering more of the cassoulet beans for our class and it will be wonderful to share the story with the other students.  I'm getting started on the duck confit for the cassoulet. 

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That's so sweet! 
 

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Visit beautiful Rancho Gordo!

Twitter @RanchoGordo

"How do you say 'Yum-o' in Swedish? Or is it Swiss? What do they speak in Switzerland?"- Rachel Ray

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