Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Darienne

Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
On 4/15/2020 at 3:42 AM, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

Typically I pull my ice cream after no more than 15 minutes in the ICE-100.  

 

 

Why do you pull your ice cream after only 15 minutes?  I let mine go until the machine tells me it's ready (it is a Breville and plays a rune, currently the theme from The Sting).

 

Another question:  yesterday I was rooting around in my baking supplies and found a bag labeled Dextrose (corn sugar).  It had been opened and some of it used but I don't remember what for.  If I were to replace sugar with dextrose in ice cream, two questions come to mind:

 

Is it an equal substitution?

Why do you substitute?

 

I re-read the above chit-chat but it isn't clear to me.

 

Edited to add:  1 kg. Of dextrose is $3.89 Cdn. at my home brew place.


Edited by ElsieD (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, ElsieD said:

 

 

Why do you pull your ice cream after only 15 minutes?  I let mine go until the machine tells me it's ready (it is a Breville and plays a rune, currently the theme from The Sting).

 

Another question:  yesterday I was rooting around in my baking supplies and found a bag labeled Dextrose (corn sugar).  It had been opened and some of it used but I don't remember what for.  If I were to replace sugar with dextrose in ice cream, two questions come to mind:

 

Is it an equal substitution?

Why do you substitute?

 

I re-read the above chit-chat but it isn't clear to me.

 

Edited to add:  1 kg. Of dextrose is $3.89 Cdn. at my home brew place.

 

 

I have found, at least with my current Cuisinart ICE-100, that the most important factor in controlling iciness is the time in the machine.  With this type of unit, time in the machine also affects overrun.  Of course one has to use judgment.  If the mixture looks like soup after 15 minutes, clearly something is not right.

 

Dextrose is lower molecular weight than sucrose.  It is also not as sweet..  @paulraphael has a nice writeup on his blog:

https://under-belly.org/sugars-in-ice-cream/

 

There is also a difference in flavor.  Somewhere in this thread I posted a study that showed tasters preferred ice cream with all sucrose when the ice cream was low fat.  At higher butterfat tasters preferred ice cream with some of the sucrose replaced by dextrose.

 

I use dextrose (and sometimes trehalose) to balance sweetness with freezing point depression.  Using all sucrose results in ice cream that is either too hard or too sweet.  Your choice.  But then I don't care for my ice cream as sweet as some might prefer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Results of this batch were excellent.  Maybe the solids were a little high due to the reduction properties of the new Falk pan.  But I wouldn't tell unless you asked.  I could easily consume the batch in one sitting.

 

After blast freezing the churned mix to -30C I warmed the Vesta freezer to -18C.  Scoopability was perfect.  Now on my second bowl.

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you tried using skim milk powder instead of reduction? If you get a good brand, it will be low-temperature spray-dried, so basically it will come pre-reduced, but done in a controlled process. You can then choose your cooking time and temperature based just on getting the level of protein denaturing you want. I suspect you'll find the denaturization makes a very small difference—especially in a high-fat, high-solids, high-egg formula. 

 

I'm curious to know what benefits you're seeing from the polysorbate when you've got 4 egg yolks in there. 

 

FWIW, I don't pay any attention to the different flavor profiles of the dominant sugars (sucrose, fructose, dextrose—besides relative sweetness). It's detectable, but I'd really be surprised if anyone would volunteer that they like the taste of 100% sucrose more than, say, 60/40 sucrose+dextrose, if sweetness levels are well balanced. In a food science study, people are probably being fed unflavored, very sweet ice cream, and then being told to choose. The differences are subtle, especially with something cold. Add flavors, and the differences go away.

 

The ratios of sucrose / dextrose / fructose are all over the place when you compare one kind of fruit to another. I think this is a very minor part of why the fruits taste different. When it comes to choosing sugars, I'm interested in getting the sweetness right (which I think should be lower than just about anyone else who publishes recipes) and getting the hardness right (which varies with preference and your chosen serving temperature). 


Notes from the underbelly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, paulraphael said:

Have you tried using skim milk powder instead of reduction? If you get a good brand, it will be low-temperature spray-dried, so basically it will come pre-reduced, but done in a controlled process. You can then choose your cooking time and temperature based just on getting the level of protein denaturing you want. I suspect you'll find the denaturization makes a very small difference—especially in a high-fat, high-solids, high-egg formula. 

 

I'm curious to know what benefits you're seeing from the polysorbate when you've got 4 egg yolks in there. 

 

FWIW, I don't pay any attention to the different flavor profiles of the dominant sugars (sucrose, fructose, dextrose—besides relative sweetness). It's detectable, but I'd really be surprised if anyone would volunteer that they like the taste of 100% sucrose more than, say, 60/40 sucrose+dextrose, if sweetness levels are well balanced. In a food science study, people are probably being fed unflavored, very sweet ice cream, and then being told to choose. The differences are subtle, especially with something cold. Add flavors, and the differences go away.

 

The ratios of sucrose / dextrose / fructose are all over the place when you compare one kind of fruit to another. I think this is a very minor part of why the fruits taste different. When it comes to choosing sugars, I'm interested in getting the sweetness right (which I think should be lower than just about anyone else who publishes recipes) and getting the hardness right (which varies with preference and your chosen serving temperature). 

 

Yes, last month:

https://forums.egullet.org/topic/152508-home-made-ice-cream-2015–/?do=findComment&comment=2242010

 

I have a lifetime supply of polysorbate 80.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

Yes, last month:

https://forums.egullet.org/topic/152508-home-made-ice-cream-2015–/?do=findComment&comment=2242010

 

I have a lifetime supply of polysorbate 80.

 

 

 

If I read that right, you used skim milk powder plus reduction. They're both ways of increasing the solids. I'm suggesting you could make life easier and have quite a bit more control of all the variables if you you used milk solids and skipped the reduction entirely.


Notes from the underbelly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, paulraphael said:

 

If I read that right, you used skim milk powder plus reduction. They're both ways of increasing the solids. I'm suggesting you could make life easier and have quite a bit more control of all the variables if you you used milk solids and skipped the reduction entirely.

 

Yes, skim milk powder plus reduction.  But not as much reduction.  Further back in the thread Ruben says he switched to adding skim milk powder to the recipe not because the result was better, which he says it is not, but because skim milk powder made the ice cream easier to make at home.

 

With regard to polysorbate 80, it could be my imagination but I think I like the ice cream melting characteristics better.  With this style ice cream I have not found other additives that I have in house beneficial.  (Unlike when making Philadelphia ice cream, which is a different story.)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

 

I'm a new member and have enjoyed reading this topic from the beginning.  I love trying new and improved ways to make ice cream and my ultimate goal is to make a home made version of Baskin Robbins chocolate peanut butter ice cream (chocolate ice cream with peanut butter ribbon).  I've nailed vanilla and still tinker with my recipe here and there. So now I've turned to chocolate peanut butter, but in many efforts haven't been able to produce anything I love yet.   If anyone's willing, I'd appreciate any suggestions for a recipe.  Here's what I have in my ice cream making arsenal right now from memory;  Whole milk 3.5%, heavy cream 18%,  eggs of course, valrhona chocolate disks in varying sweetness, valrhona cocoa powder, inulin, lecithin powser, sucrose, dextrose powder, invert sugar, xanthan, guar gum, maltodextrin powder, gelatin. I'm sure there are a few things I'm forgetting but I'm hoping I can come up with a solid recipe with them.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

    • By Nn, M.D.
      I'm very excited to share with you all a recipe that I developed for a double crust apple pie.  I had been inspired a few weeks ago to come up with a series of 3-ingredient recipes that would focus on technique and flavor but still be simple enough for the unseasoned chef.  I decided to make an apple pie as a challenge to myself--never having made one before--and as a way to show those who might find pastry intimidating how easy and adaptable it can be.
       
      Basic Shortcrust Pastry
      Ingredients:
      - 300g flour
      - 227g salted butter, cold
      - 2 lemons, zested with juice reserved
       
      1. Cut butter into small chunks.  Beat butter, zest of the 2 lemons, and flour together with an electric mixer OR combine with pastry blender OR rub together with fingers OR blitz in a food processor until it resembles sand.
      2. Add just enough water to bring the mix together into a dough (about 20g for me).  You'll know your pastry is ready when you can press it together and it stays in one piece.
      3. Divide dough in two and wrap tightly with plastic.  Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
      4. When ready to use, roll out each portion to 13 inches in diameter. (I do this between two sheets of parchment paper.  Don't worry too much if the parchment sticks to the pastry. I periodically placed mine in the freezer to help keep everything cold, and the butter will separate from the parchment when frozen.)
      5. Take 1 portion of rolled dough and place it in a 9-inch tart tin with a removable bottom.  Gently press into the sides to ensure even coverage.  Place in the freezer for 30 minutes.  Freeze the other portion of dough in-between the parchment pieces.
       
      Apple Filling (and Assembly)
      - 1 kg apples (I used about 7 apples for this recipe.)
      - 220g dark brown sugar, divided
      - 1 egg, separated
       
      Making the apple butter: 
      1. Cut and core 500g of your apples, but do not peel.  Add cut apples, juice of the one lemon, about 100g or so of water, and 170g of sugar to a large saucepan.
      2. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer and cover.  Let the apples cook for 20-30 minutes or until tender.
      3. Remove from heat and blend until smooth.
      4. Return puree to saucepan and simmer uncovered over low heat, stirring occasionally, for an hour.  Color should deepen and the mixture should thicken slightly, but do not allow it to scorch.
      5. Remove from heat and refrigerate until cool.
       
      Apple filling:
      1. Peel, quarter, and core the remaining 500g of apples. Slice on a mandolin to about 1/8th inch thickness. Place sliced apples in a large bowl of cold water while slicing remaining apples.
      2. Once apples are sliced, drain water and add the juice from the remaining lemon, as well as the remaining 50g of sugar, over the apples. Stir to coat.
       
         
       
      Assembly:
      1. Remove pie base from the freezer.  Dock with a fork and brush on egg white.  Place back in the freezer and allow to set for for about 5-10 minutes.
      2. Pour the entire recipe of apple butter into the pie base and even out with an offset spatula.
      3. Arrange apple slices over the apple butter.
      4. Remove remaining pie dough from the freezer and cut designs in while still cold. Transfer to the surface of the pie and seal overhanging edges.  Trim excess dough.
      5. Brush top pastry with egg yolk (beaten with any remaining egg white) and bake in a 365˚F oven for 60-70 minutes.  Crust should be shiny and golden brown.
      6. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely before removing from tin.
       
      Some notes:
      The reason for using salted butter is I think the flavor incorporates a little better into the mix than if I were to use unsalted butter and added salt.  That being said, you could do that instead, though your recipe would then have 7 ingredients The addition of apple butter here takes the place of the normal apple pie filling, which is usually thickened with cornstarch and is typically quite sweet.  By using the apple butter, I push the flavor of apple forward beyond what you would find in a typically apple pie.  Also, the apple butter acts as a glue of sorts so that my slices are always clean, so no need to resort to adding thickeners or extra sweeteners. I'm always looking for a way around blind baking, and using an egg white seal has worked out very well for me. The egg white creates a water-tight layer between the crust and the filling, so no matter how wet my filling is, the crust will always bake crispy and won't get soggy for as long as the pie is around. Feel free to change this up as you see fit.  Obviously you can spices to this (I recommend cinnamon, clove, and cardamom) but the beauty of this pie is that it's really not necessary.  Although at first blush it may seem one-noted, the harmony between the flaky, almost savory crust and the bright and refreshing filling is one that doesn't need any help, in my honest opinion.  

       
      So there you have it! My 6-ingredient apple pie, sure to become a go-to for me, and hopefully for you as well!
       
    • By ResearchBunny
      Posted 6 hours ago Dear EGulleters,
      ResearchBunny here. I've just found you today. I've been lolling in bed with a bad cold, lost voice, wads of tissues, pillows, bedding around me. I spent all of yesterday binge-watching Season 2 of Zumbo's Just Desserts on Netflix from beginning to grand finale. I have been a hardcore devotee of Rose Levy Beranbaum since the beginning of my baking passion -- after learning that she wrote her master's thesis comparing the textural differences in cake crumb when using bleached versus unbleached flour. I sit up and pay attention to that level of serious and precision! While Beranbaum did study for a short while at a French pastry school, she hasn't taken on the challenge of writing recipes for entremets style cakes. That is, multi-layer desserts with cake, mousse, gelatin, nougatine or dacquoise layers all embedded in one form embellished with ice cream, granita, chocolate, coulis. After watching hours of the Zumbo contest, I became curious about the experience of designing these cakes. Some of the offered desserts struck me as far too busy, others were delightful combinations. I was surprised that a few contestants were eliminated when their offerings were considered too simple or, too sophisticated. So I'd like to hear from you about your suggestions for learning more about how to make entremets. And also, what you think about the show. And/or Zumbo.
      Many thanks.
      RB
      ps. The show sparked a fantasy entremet for my cold. Consider a fluffy matzo ball exterior, with interior layers of carrot, celery, a chicken mince, and a gelatin of dilled chicken broth at its heart!
    • By TexasMBA02
      After batting about .500 with my previous approach to macarons, I came across Pierre Herme's base recipe online.  After two flawless batches of macarons, I've been re-energized to continue to work at mastering them.  Specifically, I want to try more of his recipes.  My conundrum is that he has, as far as I can tell, two macaron cookbooks and I don't know which one I should get.  I can't tell if one is just an updated version of the other or a reissue or what the differences really are.  I was hoping somebody had some insight.  I have searched online and haven't seen both books referenced in the same context or contrasted at all.
       
      This one appears to be older.

       
      And this one appears to be the newer of the two.

       
      Any insight would be helpful.
       
      Thanks,
       
    • By pastrygirl
      Anyone have a favorite recipe for chocolate cake using semisweet chocolate?  My usual chocolate cake recipe uses cocoa, but I have some samples of chocolate I want to use up for a workplace party.  Yes, I could make brownies or ganache frosting, or chocolate mousse or chocolate chunk cookies, just feeling like cake this weekend ...
    • By onemorebitedelara.com
      Has anyone used Valrhona Absolut Crystal neutral glaze particularly to thicken a coulis or to glaze a tart?  If so, how did you like it and is there another glaze you think worked as well but is less expensive or can be purchased in smaller quantities?  
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...