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NYC for 1st time: Chef on the loose

gfron1

By gfron1
in New York: Dining

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gfron1

gfron1

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I"m heading to NYC for the ICC Starchefs gathering in October and want to pack my nights with amazing meals. I've been teasing this out on Facebook and think I have a better idea of what I want, so I'm presenting my draft short list here for feedback. When I eat out, its business, meaning, I want to eat places that will either inspire me or show me something new or demonstrate such incredible passion by the chef that I'll be carried away. In my place I do modernist, foraged tasting dinners every night so many of the big boys don't necessarily impress me. No restrictions on price or genre or ethnicity. I am more likely to be blown away by a small hole in the wall doing amazing things than a monster operation. Does that define things fairly well? 5 nights to fill.

 

So, here's my draft short list for feedback (with days open and reservations notes):

 

Tørst in Greenpoint 7 days 60 day

 

Atera – 6 weeks in advance tues-sat

Mission Chinese Food – Tues – Sun, no reservations

Empellon Cocina chefs table Tue-Sat 60 day?

Semilla Tue-Sat 30 day
The original Shake Shack in Madison Square Park

Contra tue-Sat 60 days

Prune Brunch Sat and Sun; Dinner 7 nights

Dim Sum Go Go – modern

Nom-Wah – old school

Take Root – Brooklyn, Thu-Sat 30 days at midnight

Late additions to my list:

Booker and dax

Dead rabbit

Chef, Bulrush & Squatters in St. Louis, MO

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patrickamory

patrickamory

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Eh, having read your previous food travel diaries and knowing the restaurant, you don't need to go to Dim Sum Go Go. Long past its prime, and its prime was just pretty good.

 

I think generally what I like is fairly far removed from what you're into so I'll let others comment on the rest of the list.

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weinoo

weinoo

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I'd certainly be more than willing to meet you at Mission Chinese. Fung-Tu might be another interesting choice.

 

Booker & Dax is great, as is Dead Rabbit. By the time you get here, Kenta Goto's Goto should be open on Eldridge St., and that will be a good place, I'm predicting. There are so many serious cocktail places, that it's hard to pick one or two. From Pouring Ribbons, to mace, to my old favorite Pegu, you really can't go wrong.

 

Semilla is taking a fair amount of flak from some knowledgeable food people.

 

Dim Sum - Nom Wah, if you must in Manhattan. DS Go Go is as patrick said above.

 

Contra's people have opened a new, a la carte place right next door...WildAir. Dined there Saturday night, and liked a lot of the food. Great wines.

 

What about some classics, like Gramercy Tavern - the Tavern Room is awesome, with great cocktails? Or the NoMad Bar or EMP?

 

Rebelle is one of my favorite openings of the year. Others say it's Chevalier. And Gabriel Kreuther's opened a new place, while his last place, The Modern, still gets lots of happy people.

 

They're not new, but still good are Ssam Bar and Noodle Bar, and Ko, at a different level, is excellent.

 

Roberta's (and Blanca) are great.

 

Can you bring me some Hatch chiles?

 

 

 

Eataly is a fun stop, early in the day.

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Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

Tasty Travails - My Blog

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KennethT

KennethT

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While I think the original shake shack is a great place for locals (especially when the weather is nice), I don't know if I'd travel a few thousand miles for it... it's a good burger, but not a travel-worth one, IMO... that being said, when the weather is nice, I'll go there a couple times a month.

I would consider adding Momofuku Ssam bar to the list...

I would also consider removing Nom Wah... although they've received quite a bit of press lately, other than the nostalgia factor, I thought the dim sum offerings were sub-par to other places in Chinatown, and downright disappointing when compared to any average dim sum you could get in a place like Hong Kong.

If you really want dim sum, I'd go to The Bao on St. Marks in the east village before going back to Nom Wah... it's a bit more upscale but I think the quality is a level above Nom Wah.. they specialize in Xiao Long Bao which are excellent, even compared to HK standards. Their scallion pancake is excellent as well - much better than average. Also, I always get a plate of stir fried water spinach. With that being said, I don't think any dim sum in Manhattan is really that great... I've heard that there is better in the outer boroughs (breakfast/lunch only) but I haven't been personally so I can't comment.

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gfron1

gfron1

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Gawd I love when eGers take over a conversation like this! Let's cut through the bull and get to what really matters! Thank you!

 

Some great additions, and I am very much hoping some of you will want to join me - I'd love to meet you all in person. And Mitch, the chiles will be a bit out of season but they'll still be accessible - you thinking fresh or frozen?

 

Not that I want this to limit things but I'll be staying with the writer who put me on the map and her house is in Astoria. The event is in Brooklyn.

Chef, Bulrush & Squatters in St. Louis, MO

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Smithsonian magazine story

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KennethT

KennethT

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I'd also second Mitch's suggestion of Roberta's and especially Blanca, if you can get a reservation - the chef and team are extremely passionate and inspiring. Also, if you email/ask in advance, they might be able to provide a tour of their rooftop gardens where they grow much of the produce used in the restaurant.

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gfweb

gfweb

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Re Shake Shack...it's a well-marketed burger. Even if New Yorkers line up for it it's still a burger. How good can it be?

Why not have a definitive ny pizza instead? Or go do Eataly. Or something more about NY. Do a study of meatballs. Or dumplings.

Anything but a lump of ground beef between a roll and stood an hour in line for.

Having said this, I like burgers but...

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weinoo

weinoo

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 And Mitch, the chiles will be a bit out of season but they'll still be accessible - you thinking fresh or frozen?

 

Not that I want this to limit things but I'll be staying with the writer who put me on the map and her house is in Astoria. The event is in Brooklyn.

I'm always thinking fresh, but I realize how much of a pain in the ass they will be to transport. And actually, I can now get good quality frozen Hatch chiles - they sell 'em (Young Guns Produce) at Kalustyan's - which might not be a bad place to check out - they carry a dizzying array of spices, herbs, barks, roots, etc.

 

Since you'll be staying in Astoria, and the event is in Brooklyn, you're going to be doing a fair amount of schlepping. 

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Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

Tasty Travails - My Blog

My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs

Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?

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gfron1

gfron1

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If you are in Astoria, check out restaurants in  Flushing, Queens.

 

Much better Dim Sum there.

 

dcarch

Now that I've mapped out my apartment, the event and some of the restaurants, I see your point. Is there anything specific that you're thinking of?

Chef, Bulrush & Squatters in St. Louis, MO

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Smithsonian magazine story

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gfron1

gfron1

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Its getting close to when I can start booking finally (most are 60 days advance). With all the research it seems the two I am most excited about is Empellon Cocina and Take Root. I'm still going to all the others but these are the two that most excite me.  And yes, I'm still trying to figure out how to get a bushel of green chiles on the plane with me (dress them up and say its my smelly baby)

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Chef, Bulrush & Squatters in St. Louis, MO

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IowaDee

IowaDee

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Maybe you can string them together and call them New Mexico leis?  Maybe you could disguise them as Kachina dolls? Or the native version of Ken and Barbie?

Hey, I've been on flights with babies that smelled lot worse then green chilies.  And I have yet to hear a chili cry for a solid hour. 

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dcarch

dcarch

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Now that I've mapped out my apartment, the event and some of the restaurants, I see your point. Is there anything specific that you're thinking of?

 

Take a tour of New World Mall, (Main Street/Roosevelt Ave) and go to the restaurant on the top floor. After, take a quick tour of the food court in the basement. 

 

dcarch

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Steve R.

Steve R.

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I think that Aquavit's tasting menu should be on the list.  Or Juni (although I liked Aquavit more food wise).

 

Mitch: a question -- is Battersby still a worthwhile consideration here (possibly with drinks at Clover Club)?  I'm not sure, since a lot of their attention is on Dover.

 

Let me know if a get together is planned.

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gfron1

gfron1

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I haven't posted anything new because I"m just waiting for reservations to open up. The 60 day mark is coming very soon. I think Torst is off my list and Cosme, Estelle or Semilla may be on it. So I'm still very open to ideas. My spouse is saying, "But what about shows, museums, blah, blah, blah" (I tune out quickly at the thought of not getting to one of my restaurants) So I may need to free up a night for a show but if I can make it a matinee...then its a win win.

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Chef, Bulrush & Squatters in St. Louis, MO

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Smithsonian magazine story

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KennethT

KennethT

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I thought Cosme was great the last time I was there (in the early spring?) and would have highly recommended it, but lately, the reviews have been less than stellar. Notably, they discuss spotty prep quality and service - although, when I was there, my server was great - we had a 15 minute discussion about Mezcal... needless to say, he was very knowledgable...

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gfron1

gfron1

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Alright, my 60 day advance is coming up this next which means I can start booking finally. Here's my list unless someone slaps me and says I'm nuts:

 

I only get 6 dinners. Ranked in order of my interest:

Empellon chefs table

Take Root

Cosme

Atera 

Semilla

Contra

Kang Ho Don Baekjeug

Mimi Chang

Prune Brunch Sat and Sun

 

Killed based on comments: Tørst, Estele

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gfron1

gfron1

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All of my reservations are made. Couldn't get Take Root because they are still renovating.

Monday, October 26th

              Cosme

Tuesday, October 27th

              Empellon chef's table

Thursday, October 29th

              Contra

Friday, October 30th

              Blanca

Saturday, October 31st

              Prune for brunch

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Chef, Bulrush & Squatters in St. Louis, MO

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