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Provincetown, the "Outer Cape," and Wellfleet Too


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Some inventive plates here, and they look just great. I want to know what kicked that halibut/snapper ceviche into high gear. I see ribbons of pepper and tomato, but the key for me is how long to marinate? When I do scallops, they are ready in an hour in 4:1, lime:pineapple juices, minced red onion, cilantro stem and thai bird peppers (when I can get them). Beyond fresh bluefin tuna poke, I've never tried any other fish. Both halibut and snapper have a firmer, denser flesh profile. I will have to try making some...


A sandled foot or two adds character to your compositions 🙂

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On 9/5/2021 at 3:24 PM, liamsaunt said:

I got a special of blackened scallops over pea congee.  This was really nice.  The scallops were so sweet and tender.




I really like the idea of the pea congee. Fantastic color, too. Can you describe it a bit more ? 

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18 hours ago, Duvel said:

I really like the idea of the pea congee. Fantastic color, too. Can you describe it a bit more ? 


I am certainly no expert on congee, but this reminded me of the kind I make at home.  It was very simple and comforting.  If I had to guess, it was just rice cooked for a long time in lightly salted water, with freshly blanched and pureed peas and whole peas stirred in at the end.  That's just my guess though.  The menu listing was not descriptive.  

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5 minutes ago, liamsaunt said:


I am certainly no expert on congee, but this reminded me of the kind I make at home.  It was very simple and comforting.  If I had to guess, it was just rice cooked for a long time in lightly salted water, with freshly blanched and pureed peas and whole peas stirred in at the end.  That's just my guess though.  The menu listing was not descriptive.  

I would maybe even make a pea stock and cook your rice in that as well to boost the flavour profile.  Bet it would be awesome with a bit of crispy pork product at the end to top ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, who wants to read about more Cape Cod seafood?  


My husband and I were supposed to fly to Bermuda on Thursday.  Unfortunately they are in the middle of the worst covid outbreak they've had since this whole mess started. The hospital is full, ferries and busses are cancelled, and most shops and restaurants are closed.  The tourism board is saying it is just fine to come anyway, but the locals are asking tourists to please stay home, so we pushed (again) to next year.  The owner of our rental accommodation was very gracious about it, considering this is the second time we have rescheduled (we were supposed to be there this time last year too).  So, we are heading back to Wellfleet instead.  We reached out to the owner of one of our favorite houses in town, and will soon be looking out on this view and dining (outside) on the delicious local fish.  No swimming like we would have enjoyed in Bermuda, and no whale watch due to crowds, but everything else about it should be really nice. Fried clams here I come.



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7 hours ago, liamsaunt said:

So, who wants to read about more Cape Cod seafood?  


Me, me, me!  I'm also sorry that you can't be in Bermuda but I'd be happy to travel anywhere with you. Your photos are always glorious and I'm not going anywhere so I welcome the opportunity!

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6 hours ago, MetsFan5 said:

Bermuda is nice but if you ever get stuck at their tiny airport it is basically hell. all the vendors keep early hours and you’re just stuck there. 


That used to be the case but is no longer true.  They have an entirely new airport, opened December 2020.  It is a lot bigger and modern, and from what I was told, has much more stuff to do.  Not that I have experienced it yet, obviously, thanks to covid.... 

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Small update.  My husband and I arrived early last evening.  My sister is joining us later today.  My husband's brother was supposed to come too, but he had a last minute conflict.   Here is the view from the house




Looking the other way, towards another house that we rent often on this beach.  Both homes are owned by the same family.  At one point the house in this picture was the grandparents' residence, and their kids (and their kids) were in the one we are renting now.  I loved living near my grandparents as a kid so that setup sounds idyllic to me.




We missed the actual sunset because husband was working, but after he finished up we drove down the street to Mac's Shack.  It was a chilly night and we wanted warm food since we wanted to eat outside.  Warm shrimp toast to split as an appetizer




Roasted swordfish with mashed potatoes and roasted broccolini and carrots for me




Ritz cracker crusted bluefish with mashed potatoes and creamed spinach for him




And then, because we are New Englanders, ice cream for dessert back at the house.  We stopped at an ice cream store on the drive out to pick up some locally made ice cream pops.  Last night husband had a brew pop (chocolate malt ice cream made with Cape Cod red beer, dipped in chocolate and sprinkled with peanut brittle and sea salt)




I had salted caramel (caramel frozen yogurt dipped in chocolate, sprinkled with sea salt and crushed peanuts)




Not much on the agenda for today other than beach walks, and finding food at some point.  It's not Bermuda, but I will take it.  

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Yesterday we went to one of my favorite beaches in Truro.  It only has 6 or so parking spots, and you need a permit to go there in the summer.  





Looking in from the entrance dune




We had the beach to ourselves




The house you can see in the background belonged to artist Edward Hopper.  House





Loons enjoying the view.  That's Provincetown in the background.  We are heading there later this afternoon.





Sister wanted to eat at Mac's even though my husband and I ate there last night, and she usually gets her way 😉, so....raw oysters




Oysters Rockefeller




Fried clams




Fried oysters




Salmon noodle bowl




Lobster gnocchi




The sunset afterglow at Wellfleet harbor



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Yesterday we went to Provincetown.  It was fairly quiet, despite being leather weekend (though we were there in the afternoon, maybe it got busier after sunset).




We had gone mostly to do some beach walking, but got unexpectedly hungry, so stopped in to Pepe's Wharf to share a couple of flatbreads. Manchengo, thyme and carmelized onion




Lobster (rather skimpy on the lobster for $34, in my opinion!)




 Race Point beach




Back in town I tried a caramel gelato with dark chocolate and pecans from a little shop that will go unnamed because none of us liked it and it got chucked out after one small bite each




We had more success with caramel heath and coffee heath ice creams from Lewis' Homemade




Sunset was very good last night!







We had a later dinner at Winslow's Tavern




Drinks for my husband and sister--a negroni for him and a sparkling rose with pamplemousse for her




Broiled oysters with tabasco lime butter




Foccacia with roasted eggplant and whipped ricotta spread




Sister had the sweetcorn risotto with seared scallops that I have gotten a few times before  It is usually really good, but last night she reported that the risotto was overly salty.  The scallops were good though.  


Husband had a whole roasted fluke with sautéed artichokes and peas.  The fish was so bony! He dealt with it, but I am glad I did not order it myself.  There were tiny little bones in almost every bite.




I had a cod special with braised leeks, charred leek relish, and tortellini filled with peas and pancetta.  The slice of bacon on top was a little strange.  The cod was nicely cooked though.  




We are in disagreement about what to do for food today so will have to sort that out later, but are all agreed that lots of beach walks are on the agenda.

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Yesterday started out sunny and relatively warm, but by late afternoon it clouded over (so no sunset) and now it is raining.  The weather is not supposed to be great for the next few days so we are heading home in a couple of hours.  I might have to turn the heat on when we get there!


We went for a long walk around 2 yesterday and decided that we were hungry by the time we got to the harbor, so decided to have a late lunch/early dinner at the Pearl.  Cape Cod margaritas for husband and sister




Super fresh oysters--they were delivered by the oysterman, still dripping with water, while we were there.




Tuna tataki




Oyster po boy




Fish tacos




Shrimp tacos




Sister and husband posing with our last ice cream for this trip from Mac's on the Pier.  The server contaminated my black raspberry frozen yogurt with jimmies.  😞  I ate it anyway though haha




That's probably it for Wellfleet for 2021 (though I suppose  you never know).  We already have time booked for next summer, so we will be back.  We did get one more license plate this visit--Oklahoma--so we end the 2021 license plate search with 45 states and three Canadian provinces.  See you on the dinner thread!



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Wow, as a seafood (and ice cream) lover, you make a good argument for going to the Cape just to eat! The other scenery is nice, too😄

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13 hours ago, TicTac said:

Great photos as usual.  $34 for a pizza, lobster or no lobster....Oy!




Agreed!  I did not order it or even notice the price because I do not like lobster.  I only asked my husband how much it cost when I saw the small size of it.  I think it suffered from tourist location price inflation 😉

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8 hours ago, liamsaunt said:

I think it suffered from tourist location price inflation 😉


I've recently checked out a few of the wine lists at restaurants in town. Other than the wine lists being mostly useless, the markup in many cases is more than I see here in Manhattan. Corkage is non-existent if a restaurant has a beer/wine/liquor license. 

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