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Provincetown, the "Outer Cape," and Wellfleet Too


weinoo
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13 hours ago, liamsaunt said:

Last post for this trip.  I am back home now.  My nephew skipped going out to dinner last night because he had an online D+D session scheduled with his friends.  The rest of us went back to Mac's Shack.    Oysters

 

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Since my nephew was not present, my husband and I ordered a shrimp toast to share. It was tasty.  My brother in law ended up eating most of it though as we were saving room for our entrees.  

 

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My niece was not feeling 100% so just opted for a tuna poke bowl.  No picture.  My brother in law got roasted cod wrapped in prosciutto with crispy kale and creamy grits.  He liked this.

 

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My husband got the Ritz cracker crusted bluefish with mashed potatoes and creamed spinach.  He said it was fine but not as good as some versions of it that he has had in past years.

 

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And my sister and I both got a special of roasted striped bass with ramen noodles and pickled vegetables.  The striped bass was perfectly cooked and the vegetables were nice, but the ramen was quite bland.  Luckily I had some sriracha in my purse 😉

 

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So that's it for this visit.  We are coming back in three weeks to spend a week in Orleans, which is a town two towns away from Wellfleet.  We'll probably be going to all new restaurants to avoid traveling very far from the house.  Cape Cod traffic in July is really brutal.  We got home in under two hours today, but it will probably take us double that in July.  And, we spotted an Alaska license plate on the way out.  Nine states to go!

 

Here are a couple of sunset pictures from other trips to show why it is worth the drive

 

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where the oyster "eastern oysters (Crassostrea virginica)? They look like, and never try them...

cheers

Fer

PS, I assume you are based in the states, thats the reason of asking about the oysters

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15 hours ago, liamsaunt said:

We are coming back in three weeks to spend a week in Orleans,

 

I really like this seafood store in Orleans...http://www.nausetfishandlobsterpool.com/. Gotten some excellent stuff there. They also have the mishpucha with the lobster rolls and the fish and chips, but can't comment on those, since we haven't indulged.

 

And this place is a favorite with the hipster crowd (obviously, I'm thinking pre pandemic)...https://www.sunbirdprovisions.com/. Looks like they may end back as their old selves.

 

Far be it for me to answer for @liamsaunt, but I'm going to guess they are Wellfleet oysters. Which are quite excellent.

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4 hours ago, farcego said:

where the oyster "eastern oysters (Crassostrea virginica)? They look like, and never try them...

cheers

Fer

PS, I assume you are based in the states, thats the reason of asking about the oysters

 

@weinoo is right, they are Wellfleet Massachusetts oysters from the east coast of the United States, grown in the harbour right down the street from the restaurant.  They are excellent! 

 

2 hours ago, weinoo said:

 

I really like this seafood store in Orleans...http://www.nausetfishandlobsterpool.com/. Gotten some excellent stuff there. They also have the mishpucha with the lobster rolls and the fish and chips, but can't comment on those, since we haven't indulged.

 

And this place is a favorite with the hipster crowd (obviously, I'm thinking pre pandemic)...https://www.sunbirdprovisions.com/. Looks like they may end back as their old selves.

 

Far be it for me to answer for @liamsaunt, but I'm going to guess they are Wellfleet oysters. Which are quite excellent.

 

 

Haha!  We stopped at Nauset Lobster Pool on our way home yesterday because Mac's market was not open yet when we drove by.  The people in front of us bought all of the lobster meat they had (7 pounds!!!) which squashed my original plan to make lobster rolls.  See alternative results on the dinner thread 🙂 I agree that they have high quality product.

 

Did you know that Sunbird was a food truck in Wellfleet before it moved to Orleans and became a brick and mortar restaurant?  It was parked kind of near PJ's on 6 if I am remembering right.    We went to it a couple of times when it was a truck.  I tried stopping by the Orleans restaurant a few years ago when I was at Chatham Bars Inn for work but it was way too crowded.  

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Thank you both, @weinooand @liamsaunt. I have check and it is the same species, but with different name, and surely flavors. Likely like it happen in France-Spain, where oysters of the same species farmed in different areas have different flavors etc.... tasting as completely different stuff, and named differently

 

I really miss oysters with this looking... here in Tasmania, with with quality oysters locally farmed, I cannot get this style.. Here they are super creamy, too much, and as a friend says, they are oysters designed to be enjoyed by non oyster lovers... or as an introduction path to oysters... they are very good, I cannot complain, but they are not the style I had in Europe, and surely, as I see, not in USA.

 

i attach a bad picture of a plate of oysters, but you may be able to see in the ones not brutalized that they have a long, pale yellow area, which I presume has to be with spawning, that made then too creamy and too sweet for an oyster.

 The ones you had is what I would be looking for in  oysters....

 

 

 

 

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29 minutes ago, liamsaunt said:

Did you know that Sunbird was a food truck in Wellfleet before it moved to Orleans and became a brick and mortar restaurant?  I

 

Yes - and it's an awesome story.  There's another little place we went to just to pick up sandwiches on our way to hike some dunes.

 

I'll see if I can get the name from the kids, since I don't remember.  But it was like a fancier "convenience store," with really nice wines and very good sandwiches! Totally off the beaten path, I guess except to townies!

 

The other fish they had at that shop where you got beaten to the lobster was very high quality too.

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  • 3 weeks later...

We are back on Cape Cod this week.  This time we are renting a house in Orleans.  There is currently a spike in Covid cases in Provincetown, so we won't be heading up there this time.  Actually, the spike there and rising numbers in general has thrown a curveball into our plans for the week.  I did not bring any cooking equipment, but now some of the places we were planning to eat at are not going to work because they are indoor dining only.  We are all vaccinated, but are back to masking everywhere and only dining outside.  We need to go for testing to be cleared to fly when we get back home so are being a little cautious.  

 

Yesterday we drove up to Wellfleet and ate at Mac's in their outdoor area but I did not take any pictures because you have seen it all before.  Tonight we tried an Italian place in Orleans called La Bella Vita.  They have an allergy friendly menu and lots of outdoor tables so it worked for us.   Most folks got drinks to start (I am still only drinking water, it is becoming a habit).  This is a guava margarita and a watermelon margarita

 

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My nephew wanted to order the cheesy garlic bread.  

 

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My niece chose the mozzarella fritters 

 

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My husband, sister and I shared the fried calamari.  My husband's brother tried a little of everything.

 

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My sister and my husband's brother each chose the linguini with clams. 

 

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My husband had the lobster risotto

 

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My nephew wanted the bolognese

 

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I had the baked cod with mushroom and asparagus risotto

 

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My niece had a chilled avocado soup

 

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and a big bowl of pork belly

 

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No dessert--too full!  

 

Hunting in a used bookstore in town yielded this for my reading pleasure

 

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And we picked up some local chocolate for snacking

 

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The one on the right commemorates the man who got swallowed by a whale a month or so ago.

 

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Flowers in town

 

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Edited by liamsaunt (log)
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8 hours ago, liamsaunt said:

There is currently a spike in Covid cases in Provincetown, so we won't be heading up there this time.

 

This sucks - I saw an IG post from our niece that they weren't opening yesterday. One of their employees (all of whom are vaxxed) tested positive in a breakthrough case, so they're all gonna get tested for a few days before they reopen for takeout again, perhaps on Wednesday.

 

One or more of the "bears" might have been an idiot, I guess.

Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

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3 hours ago, weinoo said:

 

This sucks - I saw an IG post from our niece that they weren't opening yesterday. One of their employees (all of whom are vaxxed) tested positive in a breakthrough case, so they're all gonna get tested for a few days before they reopen for takeout again, perhaps on Wednesday.

 

One or more of the "bears" might have been an idiot, I guess.

 

 

There is a whole cluster of vaccinated positives in Provincetown right now.  I read it is the delta variant.  The state is tracking it.  At least three restaurants are closed, maybe four. I heard Mews and Fanzinni's, not sure what the others are.  AND Wellfleet is inundated by a historic deluge of millions of mosquitoes right now!  The hotspot is right by the house we rented for a month last fall, and the beach we usually go to for sunset.  Apparently it is so bad that you cannot go outside without being swarmed.  We did see a bunch of mosquitoes while waiting to be seated at Mac's but had doused ourselves in Deep Woods Off in anticipation.  

 

I was kind of sad that we ended up in Orleans this trip initially, but I am pretty content to be here now.  We went to Nauset Orleans beach yesterday for the first time ever, and it is beautiful.  I only took ones with my family in them yesterday, but will try and get some more scenic pictures of the beach later. 🙂

 

 

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Provincetown has moved to an indoor mask advisory even for vaccinated folks.  There are 132 new cases this week, most in vaccinated people.  Really unsettling.  

 

Yesterday was a bit of a flummox for dinner.  Most places are closed on Mondays and those that were open only had indoor dining.  We ended up driving up one town to Eastham, and having dinner at a newish place called Caroline's, which is mostly outside.  Most of us ended up pleasantly surprised by our meals.  We ordered baked oysters and fried calamari to share

 

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The calamari was really good--very tender and the sauce was a zippy lemon aioli which was a nice change from tartar sauce.

 

My sister, niece, and nephew all ordered the fish and chips.  It was HUGE

 

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My niece didn't like it, but she really only likes homemade fish and chips, so that was not surprising.  My sister and nephew said it was good.  Nephew was just happy he could have something from the fryer for a change.

 

My husband's brother ordered a sesame tuna noodle bowl with bok choy, mushrooms, and a lobster broth.  He said it was very tasty and way more food than it looks like.  (Side note, the lady at the table next to us sent this dish back to the kitchen because the "fish was not cooked."  I am not sure what she thought she was getting...)

 

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My husband had a warm lobster roll.  He said the lobster was very fresh and the roll was loaded.

 

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I had a grilled swordfish with baby vegetables and lemon beurre blanc.  This was good.  The fish was fresh and I liked that the portion was not massive, though I would have eaten more vegetables if they were there.  No dessert, too full!

 

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My husband has to work remotely today (boo!) so before heading to the house's pool for the day, my sister and I took the teens to the Fairway for breakfast and waited for a table on the outside patio.  The food was good but it was SLOOOOOW.  The restaurant is probably short staffed, as so many places are.

 

Nephew got his usual pancakes

 

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Niece got french toast.  They used to have cannoli stuffed french toast here, and she was sad that it's no longer on the menu, but she enjoyed the plain kind.

 

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My sister ordered a vegetable omelet focaccia sandwich.  She liked it.

 

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I ordered fried green tomatoes benedict with spinach and avocado.  True confession: I had never had fried green tomatoes before today!  I liked them a lot.

 

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@liamsaunt, having grown up in the northeast and then living in NM and CA I never tasted a fried green tomato until I began making  trips to the south to see my daughter. I like them especially when they have a modest delicate coating, not a heavy breading.  A tempura like batter might be good. The best way I ate them was in a fried green tomato BLT. A BLFGT? Say that without spitting out your last bite. As far as I can tell the only way to get a green unripe tomato here in the Bay Area is to grow your own, which I don't.

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@liamsaunt, you are making me regret every single choice I've made for our dinners and lunches for the week! That food looks wonderful...inspiring....delicious. I'll have to consult this topic before making my next set of plans. 

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Last night we decided to try a new restaurant, Casa del Cabo.  This went into the space that used to be Karoo, the North African restaurant we used to like. I am not sure why it closed as it was always busy.  Casa del Cabo has been open for about a month and has good reviews, plus it is sort of Mexican, which is my nephew's fave, so it seemed like a good choice.  I called and reserved a table on the outside deck.  Most people got margaritas to start: either a standard or what I think was a jalapeño watermelon flavored one

 

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My niece wanted the burrata over toast with anchovy aioli and salad to start.  I know, this is not even remotely Mexican!  I had a bite and it was tasty.

 

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The adults shared a seveche made with salmon.  It was very fresh but improved with just a pinch of salt

 

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There was also calamari with a spicy dip. I was not in the mood so did not sample.  My nephew ate my share.  He has discovered on this vacation that he likes calamari.  Too bad for him that he is moving to Montana at the end of next week!  I doubt calamari will be a dinner option for him out there given the food budget he has to stick to.  Luckily rice and beans is his favorite food so he will be fine 🙂 

 

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My sister and my husband's brother both ordered the grilled swordfish with mixed greens salad and chimichurri sauce.  I was regretting having swordfish for dinner the prior night as this sounded really good.  They both enjoyed it.

 

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My niece and nephew ordered pork tacos with salsa verde and queso fresco.  They were devoured in short order.

 

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I couldn't decide what to get so went with the fundido chicken tacos.  They were HUGE.  I could only eat one, but my brother in law was standing by to chomp the other one 🙂

 

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They were really tasty, but my favorite part was the salad.  I don't know what they used for dressing but it was delicious.

 

My husband seated himself at the furthest point from my nephew and got the grilled lobster (his lobster allergy number is actually zero but given his shrimp number we did not want to take a chance).   He said it was perfectly tender and he worked to extract every bit of meat with great success.

 

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Niece and nephew shared a slice of tres leches cake for dessert.  The adults skipped.

 

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But dessert was not done!  We stopped at an ice cream stand to sample the wares.  I am on a mission to find ice cream I like this trip.  This was the second place we have tried so far.  We tried Smitty's in Orleans earlier this week, which was pretty good but not worth eating more than a few bites of.  

 

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My husband went crazy and ordered jelly donut ice cream (????)  I took a picture but was laughing so hard it came out blurry.  As you can expect, that flavor of ice cream was horrible.  I did not like my flavor either--salted caramel--the ice cream was creamy but it was too sweet--so he trashed his and ate mine.  My niece ordered cookies and cream soft serve.  She said it was OK but "cookies and cream is better as hard ice cream, and vanilla is the best soft serve flavor anyway."

 

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Ice cream hunt continues...

 

My sister had to leave early this morning to head back to work so we are down to five people for the remainder of this visit.

 

I also wanted to show a picture of last night's "sunset."  The haze in the sky is from the wildfires happening all the way across the country on the west coast!  

 

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Edited by liamsaunt (log)
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Yes the extent of the fires affecting weather across North America is incredible. 

I was particularly drawn to the chimichurri/swordfish, and lobster is top of my list though I prefer spiny. Oh and those thick tortilla chips are a favorite especially to scoop up beans.

I think your nephew may be pleasantly surprised on the calamari front. The squid itself is dirt cheap and fried calamari is ubiquitous in every little take-out fish shop and restaurant here and I've had it in Idaho - cheap. I understand he has to worry about cross-contamination but imagine he has experience in asking the important questions.

On ice cream - younger me could plow through a quart of Jamocha almond fudge. Now I am satisfied after the mini taste cup at gelato places. I think I have just come to enjoy variety of taste and texture more than lots of one. 

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7 hours ago, liamsaunt said:

Ice cream hunt continues...

 

That's a tough one out there. Might have to just buy some good quality ice cream in the store and keep it in your freezer!

 

I am impressed your niece eats all the good stuff, by which I mean meat.

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Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

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On 7/21/2021 at 10:53 AM, heidih said:

I think your nephew may be pleasantly surprised on the calamari front. The squid itself is dirt cheap and fried calamari is ubiquitous in every little take-out fish shop and restaurant here and I've had it in Idaho - cheap. I understand he has to worry about cross-contamination but imagine he has experience in asking the important questions.

 

I think his food budget is $100/month, so I'm not sure that even cheap calamari will make it as a line item.  It does not sound like a realistic food budget to me, but I guess it has worked for the other people who have volunteered for the program over the years.  I will be interested to hear his reports.  

 

 

On 7/21/2021 at 4:58 PM, weinoo said:

 

That's a tough one out there. Might have to just buy some good quality ice cream in the store and keep it in your freezer!

 

I am impressed your niece eats all the good stuff, by which I mean meat.

 

My niece is a meatatarian.  Steak is her favorite food.  No ice cream in the freezer!  Too dangerous!  🤣

 

Wednesday we just grilled at the house.  We tried to go to the Cape Cod Baseball League game in town that night, but it was too peopley so we ended up back at the house after a walk on a mostly deserted beach.  There was a lot of haze from the wildfires, so no sunset, or light at all, really.  Nauset Beach

 

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Last night my nephew really wanted to go back to La Bella Vita.  Margaritas.  I know the yellow one is pineapple flavored and I don't know what the pink one is.

 

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My husband ordered a dirty martini.  I am not sure why as he does not like martinis.  He drank about two sips and then ordered a glass of wine.

 

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We ordered appetizers, and that was when I remembered that I left my nephew's epipen back at the house.  Luckily the house was only two minutes away, so my husband and I ran back to get it.  We were gone for less than 10 minutes, but while we were away the appetizers were delivered and my brother in law ate the entire appetizer that he was supposed to share with my husband and me.  He said he planned to order us another one, but the waitress never came back around.  Hmmm.  There is a reason why this guy is still a single dude!

 

Anyway.  Moving on to entrees, my niece just wanted a burrata salad because she had arancini for an appetizer and planned on ordering dessert.

 

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My husband ordered a clam pizza

 

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Nephew ordered chicken parmesean

 

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I had a caesar salad with salmon

 

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My brother in law got the same cod I had the other night.  For dessert, niece chose the chocolate semifreddo

 

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We went to Skaket Beach to see the somewhat sunset.  It ended up going behind clouds, but was nice while it lasted.

 

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More pretty flowers

 

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And more ice cream!  Butter pecan

 

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Red raspberry truffle chip

 

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Today is our last full day so we are just planning on relaxing at the pool at the house (there have been white sharks every day at the beach near our house so the ocean is a no go for us).  I am sure the main topic of conversation will be where to go for dinner 🙂 

 

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2 hours ago, liamsaunt said:

My husband ordered a clam pizza

 

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Thank you, enchantress … next project scheduled 

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16 hours ago, weinoo said:

Your family could possibly make some Jewish families look normal (almost).

 

I am not sure what this means, but if it means my family is weird, eccentric, or opinionated about food, then all of that is true.  It will get even weirder next vacation, when my brother joins us.  He eats no vegetables other than onions, garlic, and carrots, and one piece of lettuce on his bun if he eats a hamburger.  I have no idea how he is still alive.  

 

We are back home now, so here's the last post for this visit.  We decided to drive into Chatham because we wanted to see the "Whales in the Park" display.  It used to be "Sharks in the Park" but they changed it to whales after someone was killed by a shark at one of the Wellfleet beaches a few years ago.  Local artists paint whale forms and they get auctioned off for charity.  The display was too crowded, so we ended up not going.  It was early enough that people had not really started going to dinner yet, so we sat outside on the patio at Bistro on Main.  Scallop seveche.  I was not a huge fan of this.  It needed more seasoning.  My brother in law ate it without complaint.

 

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Fritto di misto.  This was cod, scallops, and calamari.  My nephew could not eat it because of his allergy, and my niece hates cod and calamari so my husband, brother in law and I shared it.  There were only two scallops.  My husband and I ate them without sharing as revenge for my brother in law eating all of the appetizer the prior evening.  Haha!

 

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My niece and nephew shared a prosciutto plate

 

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and a burrata salad

 

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For entrees, my brother in law got seared scallops with a risotto cake, lobster sauce, and asparagus

 

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I had tuna with an unfortunately bland jicama and cabbage slaw.  The tuna was good.

 

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My niece had a steak with mashed potatoes and asparagus.  It was supposed to have a mushroom-veal demiglace but she asked them to leave it off as she hates mushrooms.  It looked meh to me but she said the steak was perfectly cooked medium rare and very tasty.  My husband tried a piece and agreed.

 

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Nephew had a wedge salad

 

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My husband just wanted some steamed clams

 

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Niece had a chocolate mousse for dessert

 

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Nephew had key lime pie

 

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Chatham light

 

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And a shot of the final sunset of our trip.  It was kind of crowded so we hung back behind all the people.  

 

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We'll be back in Provincetown for Labor Day, assuming they get the Covid spike under control.  Until then, see you on the dinner thread.

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Sorry to see your time end for now. Every meal enticed. Regarding underseasoning - thought you were packing sriracha in your purse ;) 

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What a beautiful sunset photograph!  Thanks as always for sharing. 

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Anna Nielsen aka "Anna N"

...I just let people know about something I made for supper that they might enjoy, too. That's all it is. (Nigel Slater)

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6 hours ago, liamsaunt said:

 

 

  There were only two scallops.  My husband and I ate them without sharing as revenge for my brother in law eating all of the appetizer the prior evening.  Haha!

 

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Way to go!!!

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eGullet member #80.

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19 hours ago, heidih said:

Sorry to see your time end for now. Every meal enticed. Regarding underseasoning - thought you were packing sriracha in your purse ;) 

 

I was until I switched purses.  It was in the same purse that Liam's forgotten epipen was in.  Lesson learned: only bring one purse on vacation.

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On 7/23/2021 at 10:09 PM, weinoo said:

Your family could possibly make some Jewish families look normal (almost).

 

On 7/24/2021 at 2:57 PM, liamsaunt said:

 

I am not sure what this means, but if it means my family is weird, eccentric, or opinionated about food, then all of that is true.  It will get even weirder next vacation, when my brother joins us.  He eats no vegetables other than onions, garlic, and carrots, and one piece of lettuce on his bun if he eats a hamburger.  I have no idea how he is still alive. 

 

 

 

 

 

 


by Jove, I think you’ve nailed it  (I’d also add annoying to my family, which you, being a much nicer person than me, need not do).
 

And when your brother joins you next time, his onion, garlic and carrot eating would fit him well with my ancestral code.

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Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

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  • 1 month later...

We are back in Wellfleet.  Since my last posting, my nephew has moved to Montana to do a service year on the Crow reservation and my niece has returned to college (fingers crossed that they stay in for the whole semester, we will see), so this will be an adults only visit.  My husband and I came out yesterday and will be in Wellfleet through the weekend, after which we will move to Provincetown for a few days.  We have an accommodation overlap on Saturday, so I am not sure if we are moving to Provincetown on Saturday or Sunday.  I guess it will depend on the weather.  We are still sticking to outside dining only.  My sister and my husband's brother are joining us later this week.  My brother is out of vacation time at work, so can't come.

 

Here is where we are staying this time.  It's an old house that is walkable to town and the beach.  I like it a lot.  

 

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Last night we walked to the Pearl for dinner

 

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Husband's Cape Cod margarita (it has cranberry juice in it)

 

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We split an order of bang bang shrimp

 

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I got grilled swordfish with jerked pineapple salsa.  I was pleasantly surprised.  The fish was very fresh and perfectly cooked.  The serving was too large, so I shared.

 

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Husband had scampi with shrimp and scallops (and the swordfish I gave him from my plate).  He was very hungry so this was a good choice.  I am against cheese on fish dishes, but he voiced no complaints.

 

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We sprung for a beach sticker for the week, and headed to one of the town's beaches this morning.  As you can see, it's still awfully crowded on the Cape!

 

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We walked down a ways, and found a spot to ourselves.  This is as far in to the water as we get.

 

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For real swimming (for us, anyway), Wellfleet has a series of kettle ponds.  We visited one later in the day.

 

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Dinner was at old standby Winslow's Tavern.  We shared a tuna tartare taco appetizer.

 

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I had swordfish again, grilled and served with braised red peppers, roasted summer squash, and sauce vierge

 

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Husband wanted pasta again, so he had crab strozzapreti with ginger, scallions, and chiles.

 

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We found a new to us gelato place at the far end of town after dinner

 

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I had toasted almond and husband chose salted caramel.  They were both very good.  

 

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Award for funniest bumper sticker found at the beach today goes to this car

 

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