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Wine Tasting Notes 2003


dlc

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I say that the too ripe rap could be overstated. There are, to be sure, Baroli for which that will be true. On the other hand, you have wines like Giacosa's new Le Rocche that are looking mighty good. And let us not necessarily tar Barbaresco with the same brush. Gaja, for instance, made his best wines ever in 1997. I have had the 1997 Sori Tildin (obviously, at someone else's expense!), and it is a stunning wine. It was served with a 1974 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva and a 1989 Aldo Conterno Gran Bussia (one of my all-time favorite Baroli), and most guests thought that the Tildin blew both away. That is unheard of for a Gaja single vineyard with only 5 years on it. The wine showed incredible balance, big, ripe fruit masking fine tannins, but clearly the structure to age. Having also had a number of lesser (aren't they all?) Barbarescos from the 1997 vintage, I am a believer. On the other hand, Sandrone made a thin, weak 1997 Cannubi, and some of the other 1997 Baroli have not shown me much. I bought only a couple of Baroli from that vintage. Based upon my sampling, I am not convinced that overripeness is the only problem to be found in the 1997 Baroli, but am convinced that at least some great ones were made.

Bill Klapp

bklapp@egullet.com

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Jim, in the interest of full and fair disclosure, I drank my last bottle two years ago, and thus, the comment!  You're with me on the rustic, though, aren't you? 

Jim, I find it most interesting that the tannins seemingly just went away like that.  I never would have expected that in the wine's youth.

Bill,

Definitely rustic.

But the tannins did not disappear; sorry if that was implied. Rather they morphed into some of the finest and sweetest tannins I have come across. And, at the very end, they did dry the mouth (as pure cocoa powder would dry the mouth-and, come to think of it, they tasted like cocoa, too). But all that said, the wine was exquisite with the steak and a joy to drink.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

Misc. red wines including most Italians:

NV Chinato Cappellano, Barolo Vino Aromatizzato – novel and good

70 Monsanto, CCR Il Poggio – very tired

73 L. Martini, Merlot – DOA

79 Tommasi, Amarone – very good

85 Sandrone, Barolo Cannubi Boschis – very good but just past prime

85 Rampolla, Sammarco - excellent

89 Patin, Barbaresco - adequate

89 Benziger, Petite Verdot - ugly

89 Cortese, Barbaresco Rabaia – adequate but well past prime

90 Zenato, Amarone Res. – very good

90 Banfi, Brunello - adequate

90 Montevetrine, Pergole Torte (mag.) - excellent

90 Avignonesi, Merlot – adequate but unbalanced

90 Antichi, Ghemme Collis Brellemae – way young

94 Taylor-Fladgate, Port – way, way young but good

94 Fontodi, Flaccianello - good

95 Querciabella, Camartina - good

95 Struzziero, Taurasi - good

95 Palazzola, Rubino - good

95 Tua Rita, Giusto di Notri – very good but too young

95 Ravenswood, Old Hill Zin. - good

95 Caprai, Sagrantino 25 Anni – good with food, too tannic without

96 Martinelli, Jack Ass Hill Zin. - adequate

96 Rampolla, Vigna d’Aleceo – too young

96 Pierre-Bize, Anjou Gamay Sur Spilite - good

96 Foradori, Vigneto Sgarzon - good

96 Serafini & Vidotto, Rosse d’Abazia - good

96 Ravenswood, Old Hill Zin. - good

96 Bussola, TB Amarone - fabulous

97 Foradori, Granato - good

97 Frescobaldi, Lamaione - adeqaute

97 Pahlmeyer, Merlot - tired

97 Ricasoli, Casalafero - good

97 Paloma, Merlot - good

97 Felsina, Fontalloro - good

97 Montevetrano – very good

98 Corzano & Peterno, Il Corzano - adeqaute

98 Veneti, Amarone – good but a bit hollow

98 Turley, Charbono – a quaffer, nothing more

98 Clos Rougeard, Samur-Champigny – very good

98 Vietti, Barbera Scarrone VV - good

99 Piedra Negra, Malbec - good

99 Altare, La Villa - good

99 Clos Rougeard, Samur-Champigny – excellent but young

99 Michaud, Brouilly Non-Filtre – good with food

00 Pecchenino, Dolcetto Siri d’Jermu – very good

00 Agostino, Rosso di Montalcino - good

00 Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Prestige – very good

00 Gulfi, Neroibleo - adequate

00 Lapierre, Beaujolais Cambon – very good

00 Belliviere, Coteaux de Loir Hommage a Lous Derre - good

01 Turley, Old Vines Zin. - good

01 Carlisle, Estate Zin. - good

01 Owen Roe, Hillside Zin. - adequate

01 Angeli, Anjou La Lune - good

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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85 Sandrone, Barolo Cannubi Boschis – very good but just past prime

90 Montevetrine, Pergole Torte (mag.) - excellent

90 Antichi, Ghemme Collis Brellemae – way young

96 Serafini & Vidotto, Rosse d’Abazia - good

Questions:

The 85 Sandrone is already shot?

I have no question about the 90 Le Pergole Torte :wub:

The 90 Ghemme was too young? How so?

I remember discussing the 96 Rosso d'Abazia - it just keeps getting better!

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[Questions:

The 85 Sandrone is already shot?

The 90 Ghemme was too young? How so?

Craig,

The Sandrone was completely resolved, a touch thin and slightly dull. Whether this was a function of storage or time or both I don't know but the consensus among about 25 teasters was, "just over the hill."

The Ghemme was immensely tannic and much more about its structure than its fruit. Now, I am not a "gimme fruit" guy but this was either completely closed or showing too young to make any judgment about the wine as a whole. Again, storage unknown.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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Ann Arbor Taster's Guild Wine and Food Pairing Dinner

Went to this dinner last night at Cousin's Heritage Inn in Dexter. 5 courses, with 3 wines for each course and much discussion and wine geeking throughout. I'm pretty new to this whole wine thing, and while I've done a couple of walk around tastings, this was my first more structured event, with lots of opportunities to compare and contrast. To my great surprise, I actually managed to take pretty good notes, so I thought I'd share them here!

First Course: Salmon Mousse Pate, Wild Mushroom and Pecan Pate, Venison Pate

Cremant D'Alsace, J-C Ruhlmann Plenty of bubbles while it was being poured, but nearly still in the glass, with just a few bubbles here and there. Not a lot of nose to speak of, but good acidity, and matched well with the pates, especially the salmon.

Cremant De Jura, H Maire This was my favorite in terms of pairing with the food, but I didn't get very good notes on it.

Cremant De Loire, Chateau Pierre-Bise This was the best of the three by itself, and the worst with the food. Nose was apples and yeast, and it had fuller body than either of the others.

Second Course: Fried Oysters with Pesto Cream Sauce

2000 Chablis, G Picq Pear nose. Good acidity, light body, but not a lot going on. Should have been a good pair with the food (oysters and Chablis, acidity to counter the cream sauce), but it just didn't work that well. Kind of stayed along the side instead of harmonizing.

2001 Cotes De Forez, G Duboeuf A red Loire made from Gamay grapes. Distint banana bubblegum nose that I've picked up in Duboeuf Beaujolais as well. Served slightly chilled, it was a very light wine, with a completely absent finish - swallow and it's gone. Simplistic and kind of grapey. It did better with the oysters, but that's not saying a lot...

2001 Niersteiner Riesling Kabinett, J&H Strubb Waxy nose. Pretty dry for a Riesling, with just a bit of residual sugar. None of the spritz and citrus found in some of the 2001 Rieslings that I've really liked, this was pretty simple and straightforward, but was the best of the three in this flight. We named it best with the food as well, and while it went well, I think it mostly won by default.

Third Course: Asparagus Salad with Celery Leaves, Quail Eggs and Tarragon Vinaigrette

Wine matching nightmare, you'd think, but actually all three wines went pretty well, with no bad clashes.

2001 Kremstal Gruner Veltliner, E Berger Initial nose was pear, but after a couple of minutes in the glass it showed a really distinct burnt smell. Not like burning wood, more like an electrical burning smell. Not at all unpleasant, just very distinctive. Really long, slightly peppery finish, which some people at the table found unpleasant. Overall the worst match, but really worked with the celery.

Menetou Salon Morogues, H Pelle An upper Loire Sauvignon Blanc. Tart granny smith apple in the nose and on the palate. None of the stone and mineral and cat piss that I usually associate (and like) in Loire SBs like Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre. But tasty and perfectly serviceable with the salad, it would probably shine with a better food match.

2001 Alsace Muscat, M Schaetzel Passionfruit on the nose and palate, very fruity. Juicy, with a long, long finish. Seemed a little sweet, but that might have just been all that fruit. My favorite of the flight, and surprisingly, it worked with the salad, too.

Fourth Couse: Buffalo Prime Rib with Orange Balsamic Glaze

The glaze was very understated and the the buffalo was out of this world. Yum. This is what beef wants to be.

1998 Bourgogne Perrieres, S Bize Garnet in the glass. Nose had some currants. Light bodied, pinot flavors, and a healthy amount of tannins.

2000 Sablet Cotes Du Rhone Des Anges, Dom Cabasse Crimson. Black cherry nose. First sip was thin and tannic, but just a few minutes in the glass opened it up, with lots of berry flavors and a pretty full body. It was only okay on its own, but it absolutely transformed with the food - now I know what people mean when they say that Cotes De Rhones are food wines. My favorite of the night, if only because of how magical it was with the buffalo.

1997 Rust En Vrede Stellensbosch Cabernet Sauvignon I've had this one before (have some in the cellar, actually) so I knew what the expect. Dark in the glass, with a purple rim. Nose is really strong wood and leather and tobacco, but they don't overwhelm the taste, which has cherries and black currants and some herbaceous green qualities. A nice wine for sipping on its own, it didn't change with the food at all, and while not a bad combination didn't have the beautiful harmony of the Cotes Du Rhone. (For those who care, this is a Parker 90, but the wholesaler is clearing out their stock and selling at 1/4 of regular price - at $7.99 a bottle, it's got excellent QPR.)

Fifth Course: Black Bottom Caramel Pudding

Shenandoah Vineyards Amador Black Muscat (California) Dull brick red. The least sweet of the three dessert wines, with good acidity and fruit, and even some tannins. My favorite of the dessert wines, and a surprisingly good match with the pudding.

Benjamin Mildara Tawny Port (Australia) Light brown, not a hint of red to be seen. Nose of brown sugar, and about that level of sweetness, with a pretty long fruity finish. The brown sugar echoed the caramel in the pudding, but this was better on its own than with the pudding.

Barbadillo Extra Rich Pedro Ximenez Sherry First Sherry I've ever had, so don't know if it was characteristic or not. Too sweet for me. Achingly familiar nose that I just couldn't place - maybe some anise or licorice overtones.

We got the price list at the end of the meal, and the most expensive bottle was $16.00 (the Black Muscat). So some good finds in the low-mid price range. And a really fun time. I can't wait until next time!

Tammy's Tastings

Creating unique food and drink experiences

eGullet Foodblogs #1 and #2
Dinner for 40

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Barbadillo Extra Rich Pedro Ximenez Sherry First Sherry I've ever had, so don't know if it was characteristic or not.  Too sweet for me.  Achingly familiar nose that I just couldn't place - maybe some anise or licorice overtones.

Pedro Ximinez (PX for short) is made from the Pedro Ximinez grape is not characteristic of Sherry in general. Sherry is made from the Palomino grape and starts off its life being bone dry. There is a discussion of specifics for various types of Sherry on another thread about how well Sherry keeps. What happens after that is that some sherries are sweetened to varying degrees by blending with PX which is made separately. On its own, PX is very sweet indeed but does go well with some desserts or poured onto ice cream... mmmmmm.......

Really enjoyed the post btw!

Edited by StephenT (log)
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