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Cooking with Rick Bayless's "More Mexican Everyday"


Chris Hennes

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Finally, a day this week I am actually home for dinner! I made something quick and easy from the Rice Cooker chapter (a section devoted to recipes developed for the rice cooker) in a part of the book called "Daily inspirations for busy cooks." Tonight, that's definitely me. This is a simple dish of rice cooked in a cilantro/poblano/chicken stock sauce and served with shredded chicken and peas. Assuming you like cilantro, it is delicious. I made it on the stovetop since I don't have a rice cooker and it worked fine, though of course requires more attention to getting the rice cooked properly.

 

Do get yourself a rice cooker...advised by a very amateur cook (me).  You'll never look back.  :smile:   I finally got one last year.  And now I can get DH to eat brown rice at last.

Darienne

 

learn, learn, learn...

 

We live in hope. 

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I like the idea of a section devoted to a Rice Cooker chapter, even though I don't have a rice cooker. It sounds like some thought went into the organization of this book.

Nice photo, and the rice sounds wonderful.

Good idea, Smithy, although the whole thing is so new to me that I cannot see myself starting the thread.  Put off buying a rice cooker for years...DH did NOT want one, seeing as he normally cooked the rice, his way!!...but wouldn't eat brown rice.  Gave in, bought one...for peanuts I might add...and the rest as they say....

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Darienne

 

learn, learn, learn...

 

We live in hope. 

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I haven't used a rice cooker for, oh, 30-40 years.  I think I used my sister's the last time I did, when I was staying with her, back in the UK when I was much, much younger.  I cook a lot of rice.  On the stove top.  Various kinds, various formulations.  Sure, I've burnt some batches, usually when I simply forget that I *do* have a pot of rice on the stove.  Discard, start over.  And no, I have no strong urge to get an electric rice cooker.

Edited by huiray (log)
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Roasted Tomatillo Sauce Base (p. 69)

Salsa de Tomate Verde Asado

 

Roasted Tomatillo Enchiladas (p. 73)

Enchiladas Verdes

 

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Posting this here seems a bit like cheating. It's still from that chapter he calls "Go-To Meals to Know By Heart" and this is definitely one that I know by heart. But it's delicious, so why not? The only difference I can see in this recipe from his previous ones is that the cilantro is added a bit earlier in the process, and is optionally replaced by epazote. Well, my epazote hasn't even germinated yet, and the cilantro is taking over the universe, so I stuck with the cilantro I've always used. The book also explicitly lists a half dozen filling variations, including some vegetarian options, which is nice if you aren't used to thinking of this recipe as being so flexible. I was boring and stuck with the chicken since I had a breast leftover from making stock last week.

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Chris Hennes
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chennes@egullet.org

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Four Secret Weapons

 

Green Chile Adobo (p. 33)

Adobo de Chile Verde

 

Roasted Garlic Mojo (p. 39)

Mojo de Ajo Asado

 

Sweet-Sour Dark Chipotle Seasoning (p. 40)

Salsa Negra

 

Quick Red Chile Adobo (p. 37)

Adobo Rápido de Chiles Secos

 

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Tonight's project was to make Bayless's four "secret weapons", which he then adapts into many other recipes. In addition to formal recipes he also provides a half-dozen or so general ideas for using each. Most of these are pretty standard, though he does try to provide a more approachable red chile adobe by calling for powdered ancho chiles instead of whole ones. Fortunately he does also provide instructions for whole chiles, since that's all I've got.

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Chris Hennes
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In case you thought I was just imagining things, and that this was a straight-up traditional Mexican cookbook, I give you...

 

Peanut Butter-Banana-Salsa Negra Sandwich (p. 43)

 

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OK, so he doesn't actually include a recipe for this, per se, he does list it as a "Simples Use for Sweet-Sour Dark Chipotle Seasoning". Since I love peanut butter-banana sandwiches, I couldn't resist giving it a shot. I have to admit, it took my brain a few bites to process what was going on. And it was HOT. This sauce has serious kick. But all told it actually does work remarkably well. I'm not saying this is going to replace a regular PB&B in my life, but every now and again when I'm looking for some adventure, why not?

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Chris Hennes
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chennes@egullet.org

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Salsa-Braised Fish (p. 64)

Pescado Horneado con Salsa de Molcajete

 

Chorizo Rice with Lentils (p. 256)

Arroz con Chorizo y Lentejas

 

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The Salsa-Braised fish is from the stuff-you-should-memorize chapter (it's the same variety of salsa as the previous evening). The rice is from the rice-cooker chapter, though again I used the stovetop. Just about any protein would be good braised in the salsa, so it's hard to go wrong there. I used halibut steaks, but my wife suggests that chicken might actually be better here. The rice is good, with the predominant flavor being chorizo, so make sure you use a chorizo you like the flavor of. I wound up with the lentils being a bit underdone, but actually like it that way since they added a nice texture to the dish. All told the meal took about 45 minutes to prepare, which wasn't too bad for a weeknight dinner. There were no pre-made components, everything was done in one shot.

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Chris Hennes
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Creamy Zucchini, Corn, and Roasted Poblanos (p. 52)

Calabacitas y Elote con Rajas y Crema

 

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This simple taco filling is just sauteed zucchini and corn mixed into rajas with crema and cilantro. I've never met a rajas-based dish I didn't like, and this was no exception. It has a great rich flavor, and I loved it topped with crumbled cotija. Once again I used cilantro instead of epazote. I should have started the seeds earlier!

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Chris Hennes
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I give you a dinner in two parts (pre-storm and post-storm)...

 

Poblano Cream Soup

 

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Chilaquiles

 

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The soup uses rajas as the base, to which you add either corn or potatoes (I used potatoes) and then puree. Then you add any of a number of other components: I chose corn, crema, cotija, and tortillas. It was delicious, but we only made it halfway through before we had to cower in our storm shelter for a while. When we emerged, we had no power, so I used the wok burner on the back patio to make the chilaquiles. I added some Rancho Gordo black beans I had cooked the previous evening, but otherwise the chilaquiles are just tortilla chips cooked for a few minutes in the roasted tomatillo salsa I made the other night.

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Chris Hennes
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I wouldn't go so far as to say "no damage," but a man's got to eat! I returned from a brief trip to find the power back on at the house, so I am back to cooking inside...

 

Creamy Rice and Beans in Three Classic Flavors: Herby Green Chile Rice (p. 251)

 

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This is another recipe intended for the rice cooker, and is basically a Mexican risotto. In this case beans are added at the end as well. The recipe calls for canned white beans, but I made Rancho Gordo pintos instead, and I used one of those little Sargento Asiago cheese blocks as the cheese. This uses the Green Chile Adobo I made the other day and was keeping in the fridge, or optionally a few handfuls of fresh herbs. I'm glad I used the Adobo, it's got a great kick to it, with enough heat that you notice it without it being overwhelming. Overall the dish was really delicious, though I did manage to overcook the rice to my tastes (again I used a pan on the stove instead of the rice cooker he calls for).

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Chris Hennes
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chennes@egullet.org

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I am also a Bayless fan and was prepared to hate Mexican Everyday but it's so full of great tricks, it's hard to be a snob, as much I try. Haven't spent much time with the new one but I am not in love with all the chile powder references. Whole dried chiles are my preference and I would consider them an "everyday" food. The rice cooker bits look very interesting and like the previous book, the crockpot recipes will be very handy. 

I think after this, the party book and the cocktail book, I would like to see him tackle a very serious book. The beginners have been addressed. Now it's our turn!

Visit beautiful Rancho Gordo!

Twitter @RanchoGordo

"How do you say 'Yum-o' in Swedish? Or is it Swiss? What do they speak in Switzerland?"- Rachel Ray

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I've only noticed one recipe calling for "ancho chile powder" and it included instructions for making your own if you wanted to. I'd have thought you'd have more objections to all the recipes calling for canned beans!

 

That's good re chiles. I guess my glance was too quick. 

re beans, what are "canned beans". I've never heard of such a thing. They sound horrid. 

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Visit beautiful Rancho Gordo!

Twitter @RanchoGordo

"How do you say 'Yum-o' in Swedish? Or is it Swiss? What do they speak in Switzerland?"- Rachel Ray

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Hi Norm,

 

No expert here, but an aficionado.  You probably know that the 'seeds' are annatto and the paste made from them is the achiote.  Just in case you do run across the seeds somewhere.  At last we are beginning to have such things available in our nearby small Ontario city.

 

I'm not sure this is correct. 

The paste in my experience is called a recado in Mexico. The seeds are achiote. In English, (and I would assume in the Caribbean) the seeds are called annatto.

Visit beautiful Rancho Gordo!

Twitter @RanchoGordo

"How do you say 'Yum-o' in Swedish? Or is it Swiss? What do they speak in Switzerland?"- Rachel Ray

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I'm not sure this is correct. 

The paste in my experience is called a recado in Mexico. The seeds are achiote. In English, (and I would assume in the Caribbean) the seeds are called annatto.

Well, if anyone IS an expert in this case, it is you, good sir.  I said only what I had read on Wikipedia. 

 

Recado rojo or achiote paste is a popular blend of spices, originally used by the Maya peoples. It is now strongly associated with the Mexican and Belizean cuisine, especially of Yucatán and Oaxaca. The spice mixture usually includes annatto, Mexican oregano, cumin, clove, cinnamon, black pepper, allspice, garlic, and salt.[1][2] The annatto seeds dye the mixture red, and impart a distinctive red-orange color to the food.

 

I know see that some of the names are used hither and yon by different folks...a lot like everything else in life. 

Still I am glad of the reason to look it all up again. 

 

However, I can tell you about canned beans and what they are, being pretty much of an expert in that area.  Alas.  (And said to the Bean Man...)

Darienne

 

learn, learn, learn...

 

We live in hope. 

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Jicama-Beet Salad with Radicchio, Peanuts and Lime (p. 160)

 

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Spicy Chipotle Eggplant with Black Beans (p. 215)

 

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I have to admit that radicchio is not my favorite vegetable, the bitterness is usually more than I care for. In this case it plays a bit part in a jicama and beet salad so was less offensive than usual. I'd still be inclined to just skip it, or replace it with something less aggressive. Otherwise the salad was good. The eggplant is coated with salsa negra and then roasted, which is a delicious (if spicy!) preparation. It's served on a bed of pureed black beans that also have a little salsa negra added, and are thinned with their cooking liquid to a thick sauce-like consistency. I used Rancho Gordo beans again, and agree with Bayless's assessment that this might not be a great place to use canned beans. Stick to home-cooked dry beans for this one. I forgot all about the crema until I saw the photo in the book while I was writing this up. Don't forget it, the in-your-face spiciness could have used a little taming.

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Chris Hennes
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Spaghetti Squash Fideos with Chipotles, Chorizo, Crema and Avocado (p. 185)

 

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This interesting take on fideos was very successful. The flavors and textures were absolutely excellent. As Bayless claims, the use of spaghetti squash lightens the dish up considerably, though it's still not exactly a "light" dish. My only problem with the recipe was the claim that it would serve six. I think you'd need quite a few additional courses to turn this into a meal if you split it six ways. I made a half batch and it served two, barely, with snacks on the side.

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Chris Hennes
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Skillet Tacos (p. 93)

 

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This is not really a single recipe, but more a conceptual framework for a quick saucy taco filling. Pick a protein (though truthfully I think this would probably work with squash, or some really large, meaty beans as well), saute with onions, add green chile adobo and serve. Not counting making the tortillas it probably took something like fifteen minutes to get dinner on the table tonight. The green chile adobo is awesome, and makes creating dishes like this as simple as can be. My only criticism of the dish is that I don't think it calls for enough onions. Personally I'd be inclined to double or even triple the onion-to-meat ratio next time. Personal taste, I guess.

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Chris Hennes
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Steamed Roots with Roasted Poblano and Tomatillo (p. 147)

 

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Though Bayless deliberately widens the scope of the classic Mexican poblano-potato filling in this recipe, suggesting various other peppers and roots, what I had on hand was potatoes and poblanos, so I wound up with the original variation. One interesting change he makes is to add Greek yogurt to the tomatillo sauce, which added an excellent additional layer of acidity and creaminess that I liked a lot. 

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Chris Hennes
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Carne Asada Dinner (p. 86)

 

Grilled Skirt Steak, Roasted Tomatillo Salsa, Guacamole, and Porky Beans

 

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This recipe needed a flow chart! You start by roasting the salsa ingredients, but hey, hold half the garlic aside for the marinade. Then hold half the salsa aside for the guacamole. And part of the marinade aside to finish the steaks. Nothing terribly complicated, but once you spread it out over the six pages he devotes to it, complete with in-process photos and various asides, I found it got sort of confusing. Definitely one that you need to read all the way through to the end before you get started. Of course, it tasted great. I used Rancho Gordo pinto beans rather than canned, and I cooked the steak sous vide and only finished it on the grill, but otherwise I stuck to the recipe. 

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Chris Hennes
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chennes@egullet.org

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Mexican Chicken Soup (p. 270)

 

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I've always loved the flavors of Mexican chicken soup: the addition of lime, serrano chile, and avocado make it just about my favorite style. The main recipe is made in a slow-cooker, which I don't have, though it does include directions for making it in a pot as well. I ignored both sets of instructions, naturally  :smile: . This recipe includes a section called "Riffs on Mexican Chicken Soup", in which Bayless mentions that grilling the chicken before preparing the soup makes an excellent (if non-traditional) variation. I grilled (well, spit-roasted) the chicken and made a stock with the carcass and dark meat, shredding and reserving the breast meat. From there I followed his stovetop instructions, but only added the chicken when actually serving. While I'm sure his method works fine, making the stock first worked better with my weekend and weeknight cooking schedule. It was delicious, of course, and I really enjoyed the additional layer of flavor provided by grilling the chicken first.

Edited by Chris Hennes (log)
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Chris Hennes
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chennes@egullet.org

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Grilled Fish with Creamy Cool Cucumber Pipián (p. 322)

 

Pan-Roasted Summer Squash with Garlic Mojo and Güero Chile (p. 182)

 

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I was really looking forward to trying this "pipián" since it has an optional hoja santa component and my plant is finally healthy enough that I can take leaves from it. He does acknowledge that he's stretching the definition of pipián pretty far here, though the pumpkin seeds are pretty assertive and I get where he's coming from using the word. Whatever it gets called, it was a unique sauce for the fish (I used mahi), with the combination of cucumber, pumpkin seeds and hoja santa resulting in something quite unexpected. I really enjoyed the dish.

 

The summer squash is basically grilled squash with mojo and chiles. I actually didn't have any güero, so I roasted up some poblanos. Nothing terribly remarkable here, but it was a nice change from plain grilled squash. I love the plain squash, but it's nice to have something else in the repertoire. 

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Chris Hennes
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chennes@egullet.org

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