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FrogPrincesse

"Death & Co: Modern Classic Cocktails"

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I'm about to make orgeat from the D&Co book, which uses ingredients I haven't seen in other recipes, namely cognac, amaretto, and rose water (but no orange flower water).  I've never made orgeat before, I read the "orgeat" forum on here, yet none mention a recipe with those particular additional ingredients.  Any advice here?  If someone's made it, I'd love to hear comparison stories! 

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Remember the Maine a la Death & Co with Rittenhouse 100 rye, Cocchi vermouth di Torino, Luxardo cherry liqueur (subbed for cherry heering), Etter 1998 kirsch (subbed for Massenez), St. George absinthe (subbed for Vieux Pontarlier).

 

The inclusion of kirsch (which replaces part of the cherry liqueur that you see in most recipes) is interesting. It's a great version of this classic!

 

Remember the Maine a la Death & Co with Rittenhouse 100 rye, Cocchi vermouth di Torino, Luxardo cherry liqueur, Etter 1998 kirsch, St. George absinthe #cocktails #cocktail #craftcocktails #deathandco #whiskey #rye #absinthe #eaudevie #kirsch

 

 

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The Conference (Brian Miller) made with top-notch ingredients is a top-notch cocktail! :) Better than my previous attempt.

 

Here it is with Rittenhouse 100 rye whiskey, High West American Prairie bourbon whiskey (subbed for Buffalo Trace), Daron XO calvados, Pierre Ferrand 1840 cognac (subbed for Hine H), Angostura bitters, xocolatl mole bitters.

 

Conference (Brian Miller) with Rittenhouse 100 rye whiskey, High West American Prairie bourbon whiskey, Daron XO calvados, Pierre Ferrand 1840 cognac, Angostura bitters, xocolatl mole bitters #cocktails #cocktail #craftcocktails #oldfashioned #deathandco

 

 

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Susie Q (Joaquin Simo) with Daron XO calvados, lemon juice, cinnamon bark syrup, ginger syrup, vanilla syrup, sparkling Crémant rosé.

 

Susie Q (Joaquin Simo) with Daron XO calvados, lemon juice, cinnamon bark syrup, ginger syrup, vanilla syrup, sparkling Crémant rosé #cocktail #cocktails #craftcocktails #deathandco #calvados

 

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North by Northwest (Brian Miller) with Sipsmith London dry gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, St. George absinthe, Crémant de Bourgogne rosé sparkling wine. This is an elevated French 75, the absinthe making all the difference. I had liked it with Old Harbor gin and it's also great with the Sipsmith.

 

North by Northwest (Brian Miller) with Sipsmith London dry gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, St. George absinthe, Crémant de Bourgogne rosé sparkling wine #cocktail #cocktails #craftcocktails #absinthe #gin #deathandco

 

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Yes, the Martica's a good one.  I also like the Chocolate Martica - increase the vermouth to a full ounce (from .75) and sub two dashes of mole bitters for the Angostura.

 

I also went D&C for tonight's cocktail  - Cynaro de Bergerac. I can't say why, but I didn't enjoy it as much as I'm sure I have before.  Nothing wrong with it, though.

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Le Gigot Flip

80f8a8c9b6fccd324bf785c5f215d2d1c83ac9e3.jpg

 

I didn't put enough sugar so it was quite dry and also considering the Santa Teresa rum which is not the sweetest one.

It was pleasant but I found the cherry notes to be rather discreet.
The texture was interesting, it was my first flip

 

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On 2/3/2016 at 9:21 AM, FrogPrincesse said:

Smoked Julep (Phil Ward) with Laphroaig 10 (subbed for the 12), Daron XO Calvados (instead of Laird's apple brandy), maple syrup. Like a very smoky apple. Similar to the Shruff's End in Julep form, and with less flourish.

 

24158410283_79617c1692_c.jpg

 

 

 

I been enjoying following your posts.  Thank you for sharing them and the information.  I did find this one interesting and will be giving it a try.  

 

 

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This was a touch sweet, but I liked the tiki-esque vibe of this Old Fashioned cocktail a lot, especially on a cold and gray evening.

 

Four in Hand (Scott Teague) with High West American Prairie bourbon, Boulard VSOP calvados, Smith & Cross Jamaican rum, green Chartreuse, BJ Reynolds vanilla & homemade cinnamon syrups.

 

Four in Hand (Scott Teague) with High West American Prairie bourbon, Boulard VSOP calvados, Smith & Cross Jamaican rum, green Chartreuse, vanilla & cinnamon syrups #deathandco

 

 

 

 

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On 10/28/2016 at 5:08 AM, ananth said:

Le Gigot Flip

 

I didn't put enough sugar so it was quite dry and also considering the Santa Teresa rum which is not the sweetest one.

It was pleasant but I found the cherry notes to be rather discreet.
The texture was interesting, it was my first flip

 

Along those lines the Dickens Flip (with 1/2 an ounce of Angostura bitters) is nice, too. The bitters reinforce the cherry flavor to my palate. 

Beta Cocktails' Heering Flip is also similar, that one with a fat 1/2 ounce of Xocolatl Mole bitters! I haven't gotten to that one yet.

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I've really got to try those kind of recipes which ask for 1/2 or 1 oz of angostura bitters

the Trinidad sour seems to be really interesting

however, I'd find difficult to use 1/2 an ounce of Xocolatl Mole bitters :D

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9 hours ago, ananth said:

I've really got to try those kind of recipes which ask for 1/2 or 1 oz of angostura bitters

the Trinidad sour seems to be really interesting

however, I'd find difficult to use 1/2 an ounce of Xocolatl Mole bitters :D

It's not difficult and it's quite good. It's actually a great drink when the weather is colder - think hot chocolate.

 

For more bitters-heavy drinks, check out this thread too.

 

 

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Brian Miller's Bumboo again, this time with Flor de Cana 12 (and demerara syrup, vanilla syrup, Peychaud's bitters, Abbott's bitters, Jerry Thomas' bitters, grated nutmeg). This rum strikes a good balance between sweetness and spice. It should work great in tiki drinks (and was recommended in Smuggler's Cove cocktail book).

 

Bumboo (Brian Miller) with Flor de Cana 12, Demerara syrup, vanilla syrup, Peychaud's bitters, Abbott's bitters, Jerry Thomas' bitters, grated nutmeg #cocktail #cocktails #craftcocktails #rum

 

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Howl on the Hill (Jessica Gonzalez) with El Dorado 8 year demerara rum (substituted for the 15 year), Flor de Cana 12 (substituted for Santa Teresa 1796), Margerum amaro (instead of Carpano Antica - they are very different but I still loved the result), Fernet-Branca, yellow Chartreuse, St. George absinthe (instead of Vieux Pontarlier). This is a bit like a rum cousin of a cocktail I love, the Hanky Panky (gin + sweet vermouth + fernet-branca).

 

Howl on the Hill (Jessica Gonzalez) with El Dorado 8 year demerara rum, Flor de Cana 12, Margerum amaro, Fernet-Branca, yellow Chartreuse, St. George absinthe #cocktail #cocktails #craftcocktails #rum #deathandco #chartreuse #absinthe #fernetbranca

 

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Here is a previous and equally delicious of the Howl on the Hill with with El Dorado 12 & Havana Club 7 rums, Dolin sweet vermouth (+ Fernet-Branca, yellow Chartreuse, St. George absinthe).

 

Howl on the Hill (Jessica Gonzalez) with El Dorado 12 & Havana Club 7 rums, Dolin sweet vermouth, Fernet Branca, yellow Chartreuse, St George absinthe

 

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I've had this book on my kindle for a while now and love it.  Obviously it is unrealistic to think that a home bar could replicate the recipes in this book, it would cost you *thousands* in booze to do so.  However, using their recipes as a guideline has been a lot of fun.  Their infusions are spectacular...especially the jalapeno infused tequila.

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1 hour ago, edgarallanpoe said:

I've had this book on my kindle for a while now and love it.  Obviously it is unrealistic to think that a home bar could replicate the recipes in this book, it would cost you *thousands* in booze to do so.  However, using their recipes as a guideline has been a lot of fun.  Their infusions are spectacular...especially the jalapeno infused tequila.

 

I don't think any of these books are written under the assumption that all the recipes can be replicated at any given time by any one person, but certainly there are plenty of drinks in this book that can be replicated for far less than thousands of dollars in booze.

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On 2/7/2017 at 9:24 AM, sbumgarner said:

 

I don't think any of these books are written under the assumption that all the recipes can be replicated at any given time by any one person, but certainly there are plenty of drinks in this book that can be replicated for far less than thousands of dollars in booze.

 

That is exactly my point...some might think that this book is a recipe book.  I suppose in some respects it is exactly that.  But IMHO it is *much* more useful as a guide with which to experiment and create your own concoctions.  That isn't to say that the recipes aren't fantastic, they are and I use them often.  But I have had a lot more fun reading their explanations on *why* they do the things they do and *why* they use the ingredients they do.

 

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I tried the Benjamin Barker Daiquiri

Rum (I used a mix of Myers Dark and El Dorado 8), lime, Demerara syrup, Campari, and absinthe.

 

My first sips were too licoricey, and I regretted being carelessly generous with estimating 1/8 oz in my jigger. But after a few sips that receded a bit, or better, started integrating in fascinating ways with the sour lime and bitter Campari. In the end I really liked this. I have found some daiquiris lacking dimension, and this drink remedies that in an effective way.

benjaminbarker 1.png

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18 hours ago, Craig E said:

I tried the Benjamin Barker Daiquiri

Rum (I used a mix of Myers Dark and El Dorado 8), lime, Demerara syrup, Campari, and absinthe.

 

My first sips were too licoricey, and I regretted being carelessly generous with estimating 1/8 oz in my jigger. But after a few sips that receded a bit, or better, started integrating in fascinating ways with the sour lime and bitter Campari. In the end I really liked this. I have found some daiquiris lacking dimension, and this drink remedies that in an effective way.

benjaminbarker 1.png

 

Oh I've made that one too (and reported in the Daiquiri thread). I got it from the Absinthe Cocktails book, before Death & Co came out. I enjoyed it as well!

 

On ‎7‎/‎2‎/‎2014 at 1:31 PM, FrogPrincesse said:

A bloody Daiquiri, why not. Benjamin Barker Daiquiri by Brian Miller with aged rum (El Dorado 8), lime juice, Campari, demerara syrup, absinthe (St. George). Pretty well done because the Campari blends harmoniously and does not become obvious until the end. A good option for an aged rum Daiquiri with a slightly bitter finish.

 

14538783055_231dd77313_z.jpg
 

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19 minutes ago, Craig E said:

The Death & Co. take on the Southside

  • lemon -> lime
  • simple -> cane syrup
  • + Angostura

—was enough to raise it two stars, in my book. Yummy!

dcsouthside 1.png

Pretty! I think a lot of people made their Southsides with lime well before Death & Co though! ;)

 

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    • By boilsover
      I. Introduction
       
      This article reviews the 3500W all-metal commercial induction single-hob hotplate by Panasonic, which I believe is the first “all-metal” unit to hit the U.S. market. Where appropriate, it is also compared with another commercial single-hob, the 1800W Vollrath Mirage Pro Model 59500P.
       
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      A. Temperature Settings
       
      Unfortunately, with every pan I tried, the temperature settings were wildly inaccurate for measuring the temperature of the food. I heated 2 liters of peanut oil in a variety of pots, disk-base, enameled cast iron enameled steel, and copper. I thought it might be useful to see how close to 350F and 375F the settings were for deep frying. The oil in a Le Creuset 5.5Q Dutch oven set to 350F never made it past 285F, and it took 40:00 to get there. I kept bumping up the setting until I found that the setting for 420F will hold the oil at 346F. A disk-based pot didn’t hit 365F until the temperature setting was boosted to 400F. The only pan which came remotely close to being true to the settings was a 2mm silvered copper oven, which heated its oil to 327F when the Panasonic was set for 350F, and 380F when set for 410F.
       
      The temperature function was a lot closer to true when simply preheating an empty pan. With a setting of 350F, all the shiny stainless pans heated to just a few degrees higher (about 353-357F) and held there. This is useful for judging the Leidenfrost Point (which is the heat at which you can oil your SS and have it cook relatively nonstick) and potentially for “seasoning” carbon steel, SS and aluminum, but not much else, since it doesn’t translate to actual food temperature. There’s also the issue of the temperature settings *starting* at 285F, so holding a lower temperature for, e.g., tempering chocolate or a sous vide bath, or even a simmer would be by-guess-by-golly just like any other hob—your only resort is lots of experience with lower *power* settings.
       
      With heat-tarnished copper, a 350F setting resulted in a wide swinging between 353F and 365F, which I attribute to the copper shedding heat far faster than the other constructions, once the circuit stops the power at temperature. Then, when the circuit cycles the power back on, the copper is so responsive that it quickly overshoots the setting. Aluminum, on the other hand, *undershot*, the 350F setting, registering a cycle of 332-340F.

      I conclude that the IR sensor is set for some particular emissivity, probably for that of stainless steel. If true, the Panasonic, even though it automatically switches frequencies, does not compensate for the different emissivities of copper and aluminum. And even if Panasonic added dedicated aluminum and copper IR sensors, there is enough difference between dirty and polished that the added cost would be wasted. Bottom line here: the temperature setting mode is of extremely low utility, and should not be trusted.
       
      B. Power Mode – Pan Material Comparisons
       
      Given the differences in power setting granularity and maximum power between the two frequencies, it is difficult to assess what X watts into the pot means in, say, a copper-versus-clad or –disk showdown. What is clear, however, is that Setting X under disk and clad seems “hotter” than the same setting under copper and aluminum.

      I will need to precisely calibrate the Panasonic for wattage anyway for the hyperconductivity project, so I will obtain a higher-powered watt meter to determine the wattage of every power setting for both frequencies. Until then, however, the only way I can fairly handicap a race is to apply a reduction figure to the ferromagnetic setting (2400W being 69% of 3500W). Given that we know the wattage at the maximum settings, we can infer that Setting 14 (actually 13.8) on the 20-step ferromagnetic range iis approximately the same heat output as the maximum setting (18) for copper/aluminum.

      The boil times for 4 liters of 50F water in 10” diameter pots shocked me. The 10” x 3mm tinned copper pot’s water reached 211F in 36:41. Not an especially fast time at 2400 watts. The 10” disk-based pressure cooker bottom? Well, it didn’t make it—it took an hour to get to 208F and then hung there. So that left me wondering if the Panasonic engineers simply decided that 2400 watts was enough for copper and aluminum. I have a theory why the copper pot boiled and the SS one didn’t under the same power, but getting into that’s for another time.

      C. Evenness Comparisons
       
      The wires which generate the induction field are wound in a circular pattern; when energized, they create a torus-shaped magnetic field. The wound coil is constructed with an empty hole at its center. As matters of physics, the magnetic field’s intensity drops off extremely fast as a function of the distance from the coil; a few millimeters above the Ceran, the field is so weak no meaningful heat will be generated. This means that most induction cooktops heat *only* the very bottom of pans, and in a distinct 2-dimensional “doughnut” shape.

      All of the above can result in a pan having a cooler central spot, a hotter ring directly over the coil, and a cooler periphery outside the coil. It is left to the cookware to try to even out these thermal discontinuities when cooking. Some materials and pan constructions are better at this than others: the successful constructions utilize more highly-conductive metals such as aluminum and copper, but unless the material is very thick, there can be a ring-shaped hotspot that can scorch food.
      Until the Panasonic arrived to market, hotspot comparisons between ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper pans depended largely on comparing induction’s flat, more discrete heat ring with gas’s more diffuse, 3-dimensional one. Dodgeball-style debate ensued, with few clear conclusions. But now, for the first time, equally-powered flat heat rings in two different frequencies allow us to directly compare evenness in ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper cookware.

      The simplest and easiest way to assess cookware evenness is the “scorchprint”, which does not require infrared or other advanced thermal imaging equipment. I’ve posted on how to conduct scorchprinting elsewhere, but basically a pan is evenly dusted with flour; heat is applied to the pan bottom. As the flour is toasted, any hotspots visually emerge, giving the viewer a useful general idea of evenness.
       
      I will later post the photos of scorchprints I made of 4 different pans run using the Panasonic KY-MK3500: (1) a Demeyere 28cm Proline 5* clad frypan; (2) a Fissler Original Profi disk-base 28cm frypan; a 6mm aluminum omelet pan; and (4) a 32cm x 3.2mm Dehillerin sauté. To make it a fair race, I heated all the pans at 2400W until they reached 450F, and then backed off the power setting to maintain 450F. I did this in order not to compromise my saute’s tin lining. As you will see, both the clad Demeyere and the disk-based Fissler did print the typical brown doughnut, with a cooler center and periphery. By far the most even was the thick, all-aluminum pan, which actually was even over its entirety—even including the walls. The copper sauté was also quite even, although its larger size and mass really dissipated heat; once 450F was dialed in, no more browning happened, even after 30 minutes.
       
      I conclude that the straightgauge pans were far more effective at shunting heat to their peripheries and walls (and also to some extent into the air) than the clad and disk-based pans. The latter accumulated their heat with most of it staying in the center of the pans. Eventually, even the “doughnut hole” blended into the scorch ring because the walls were not bleeding sufficient heat away from the floor. This was especially pronounced in the Fissler, the high wall and rim areas of which never exceeded 125F. The aluminum pan, in contrast varied less than 30F everywhere on the pan.

      D. Other Considerations

      The Panasonic’s fan noise at the cook’s position was noticeable at 63 dBA, higher than with the VMP’s 57 dBA. These levels are characterized as “normal conversation” and “quiet street”, respectively. Interestingly, I found two other, potentially more important differences. First, the Panasonic’s fan stays on, even after the unit is powered off, whereas the VMP’s fan shuts off immediately when the hob is turned off. Second, the Panasonic’s fan steps down from the louder speed to a much quieter (47 dBA, characterized as “quiet home”) level until the Ceran is cool to sustained touch, at which point it shuts off completely. I think the Panasonic’s ability to continue to vent and cool itself is a great feature, especially since a cook could leave a large, full, hot pan on the glass.

      The glowing circle is useless for gauging heat setting or intensity. And while it works to indicate a hot surface, it remains lit long after you can hold your hand in place dead center.
       
      VI. Summary and Lessons
       
      The Panasonic KY-MK3500 is a solid unit, well-conceived and rugged. It is extremely easy to use. It works well with both the common 24kHz frequency used with ferromagnetic cookware, and the 90kHz frequency chosen here for copper and aluminum. It effectively and automatically switches between the two.

      In my opinion, it points the way to expanding the worldwide induction appliance market to include dual frequencies. It also obviates the need to: (a) junk otherwise excellent cookware merely to have induction; and (b) retrofit designs to bond on ferromagnetic outer layers. In fact, in my opinion, my tests indicate that, in a dual-frequency world, adding ferromagnetic bottoms may well be a drag on pans’ performance.
       
      I also consider the Panasonic Met-All to be ground-breaking in what it can tell us about *pans*, because all metallic pans are now commensurable on induction. Clearly (to me anyway), watt-for-watt, the copper and aluminum pans performed better than did the clad and disk-based pans on this unit. Boil times were faster, there was less propensity to scorch, and the conductive-sidewall pans definitely added more heat to the pans’ contents. We may ultimately find that 90kHz fields save energy compared to 24kHz fields, much as copper and aluminum require less heat on gas and electric coil.
      In terms of heat transfer, the copper and aluminum pans came close to emulating the same pans on gas. And at 2400W/3500W it has the power of a full size appliance in a relatively small tabletop package.
       
      The Panasonic is far from perfect, however. It can’t really be considered portable. There are far too few temperature settings, and what few it has are not accurate or consistent in terms of judging pan contents and attaining the same temperature in different pans (and even the same pan unless clean). The luminous ring could easily have been made a useful indicator of intensity, but wasn’t. And it lacks things that should be obvious, including a through-the-glass “button” contact thermocouple, more power granularity, an analog-style control knob, and capacity to accept an external thermocouple probe for PID control.
       
      Most importantly for me, the Panasonic KY-MK3500 portends more good things to come. Retail price remains $1,700-$2,400, but I jumped on it at $611, and I’ve seen it elsewhere for as low as $1,200.
       
      The manual can be found here: ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/commercialfoo...
       
      Photo Credit:  Panasonic Corporation

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