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Kerry Beal

Report: eG Chocolate and Confectionery Workshop 2014

135 posts in this topic

Yes, the alcohol totally evaporated. 

As much as I learned at the workshop, the thing I missed most was seeing what Kerry has found to use in confectionary. It is always the highlight to see what she has found.


Ruth Kendrick

Chocolot
Artisan Chocolates and Toffees
www.chocolot.com

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you bet

 

its  " rubbing alcohol "

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I have been very interested in the report on this year's workshop.  I don't know how accurate it is, but one of the impressions I have gotten from the posts is that there was quite a bit of overturning the tried-and-true chocolate rules.  Some examples:  Jean-Marie's method of mixing ganache which involved deliberately causing it to break, the washing of molds with soap in a dishwasher, the cleaning of molds with isopropyl, melting butter into a ganache rather than waiting to add it later, and using (as Kerry put it so cleverly--given the effect of this additive) "a shit load of sorbitol."  I'm just wondering if those at the workshop got this same impression or if I just happened to notice these examples.

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I think that's a fair description JIm.  The difference being that this is a teaching chocolate maker who has all the bells and whistles at his disposal, which would include knowledge.  His shop has a wall of "sponsors" who give him equipment and supplies knowing that they will share with their students.  So if Valhrona wants you doing the gradual emulsion, then they'll make sure JMA knows it and is teaching it. 


Chef, Curious Kumquat, Silver City, NM

A recent write-up in Dorado magazine

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I would say the 'washing of molds in the dishwasher with soap' is simply a time vs effort thing. It's much easier in a commercial setting to wash them in a dishwasher - I know they do this at the school I attend as well.

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....let's not forget the perfectly tempered cocoa butter sitting in a one of a kind machine at (was it 32?)

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Thanks so much for the report and pics - I am very envious of the whole event. It looks like you had a fantastic time and a brilliant arrangement committee.

 

If the god of exams and finance will, I will attempt coming next year


Edited by Mette (log)
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It has been a beautiful and exciting series of reports. Thank you all for sharing the fun with the rest of us!


Nancy Smith, aka "Smithy"
HosteG Forumsnsmith@egstaff.org

"Every day should be filled with something delicious, because life is too short not to spoil yourself. " -- Ling (with permission)

"There comes a time in every project when you have to shoot the engineer and start production." -- author unknown

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Thanks for the update on the spraying secret Ruth.  Darn hey?!

Gfron, what a great and simple idea - 2 heated guns!  

Kerry, thanks for the list of the pearls of knowledge.  I've jotted a few down and will use them.

 

I recall that Recchiuti also washes his molds in the dishwasher but I think it's without soap.  Don't remember for certain though...

I wonder why they use isopropyl to clean and buff the molds?  Maybe to eliminate all of the fat?

 

Thanks again for sharing everyone!

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Finally getting a chance to sit down with my notes - some of these may have value, others may not:

 

-If ganache breaks, add hot water, breaks are caused by lack of water.  If still breaks, heat gun.

-Felchin has some nice pastry bag holders that they should have donated to all of us ;)

-Emulsions can't be below 35º; ganache should finish at 35º

-Glucose makes ganache "chewy"

-Invertaese when used in a ganache with yolk prevents curdling

-Pectin NH (reversable) is used in the piped PDF

-To dampen sweetness in white chocolate add a bit of citric acid

-Always add 5% milk powder to gianduja to absorb moisture that will seep into chocolate

-Koerner carries the Sosa products in the US

-Bought giandujas - Callebaut has the cheapest good stuff but they prefer Felchin

-Caramel finish temps (242º candy bars, 245º wrapped caramel)

-Spray gun psi: 80 is too much, 60 is perfect for detail work

-Spray: 60/40 dulcey or milk to cocoa butter

-Spray: Glass effect - 60/40 dulcey very lightly sprayed, then 60/40 white chocolate with splash of white cocoa butter

-Spray: Always spray dark first then light

-They hang their silicon mats and molds on a coat hanger with clip hangers

-Jean Mark Scribaute book L'envers des Matteres is a great book for ingredient data

-Target AW .062-.065


Chef, Curious Kumquat, Silver City, NM

A recent write-up in Dorado magazine

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You're way over my head on this, but didn't I see numbers earlier for the target aW to be around 0.65? I don't think I've seen any numbers as low as what you posted above.


Nancy Smith, aka "Smithy"
HosteG Forumsnsmith@egstaff.org

"Every day should be filled with something delicious, because life is too short not to spoil yourself. " -- Ling (with permission)

"There comes a time in every project when you have to shoot the engineer and start production." -- author unknown

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Finally getting a chance to sit down with my notes - some of these may have value, others may not:

 

-If ganache breaks, add hot water, breaks are caused by lack of water.  If still breaks, heat gun.

-Felchin has some nice pastry bag holders that they should have donated to all of us ;)

-Emulsions can't be below 35º; ganache should finish at 35º

-Glucose makes ganache "chewy"

-Invertaese when used in a ganache with yolk prevents curdling

-Pectin NH (reversable) is used in the piped PDF

-To dampen sweetness in white chocolate add a bit of citric acid

-Always add 5% milk powder to gianduja to absorb moisture that will seep into chocolate

-Koerner carries the Sosa products in the US

-Bought giandujas - Callebaut has the cheapest good stuff but they prefer Felchin

-Caramel finish temps (242º candy bars, 245º wrapped caramel)

-Spray gun psi: 80 is too much, 60 is perfect for detail work

-Spray: 60/40 dulcey or milk to cocoa butter

-Spray: Glass effect - 60/40 dulcey very lightly sprayed, then 60/40 white chocolate with splash of white cocoa butter

-Spray: Always spray dark first then light

-They hang their silicon mats and molds on a coat hanger with clip hangers

-Jean Mark Scribaute book L'envers des Matteres is a great book for ingredient data

-Target AW .062-.065

A question Rob..You said Invertase. Did you mean Invert sugar? i think I missed that one.


Ruth Kendrick

Chocolot
Artisan Chocolates and Toffees
www.chocolot.com

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You're way over my head on this, but didn't I see numbers earlier for the target aW to be around 0.65? I don't think I've seen any numbers as low as what you posted above.

My notes say that Jean Marie expects 90 day (60 day guarantee) shelf life @ 0.62 aW and that 0.72 - 0.75 aW = maybe 5 weeks life.  What was that one ganache Melissa made, 0.96, I think?, and he said "Eat it within one day".


The Big Cheese

BlackMesaRanch.com

My Blog: "The Kitchen Chronicles"

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"The Flavor of the White Mountains"

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Ruth, surely my notes are wrong.  It must be invert sugar.

Notes updated. Yep, I grabbed your list of notes and saved them along with Kerry's in a file on my computer. I've done the (or a) pectin NH version of pipeable pate de fruits but the thinning with fruit puree to get a pipeable result thing is a new one for me. I'll have to play with that.

 


It's kinda like wrestling a gorilla... you don't stop when you're tired, you stop when the gorilla is tired.

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The thinning is done with a regular PDF not necessary for the pectin NH version.

Yep, got that. It's the thinning of a regular PDF with fruit puree to make it pipeable that caught my attention. I like the idea that, if you're going to thin it for piping, might as well add some additional flavor and freshness by using fruit puree.

 


It's kinda like wrestling a gorilla... you don't stop when you're tired, you stop when the gorilla is tired.

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My notes say that Jean Marie expects 90 day (60 day guarantee) shelf life @ 0.62 aW and that 0.72 - 0.75 aW = maybe 5 weeks life.  What was that one ganache Melissa made, 0.96, I think?, and he said "Eat it within one day".

 

In the class I took recently in Chicago with Chef Mattieu Barriqualt, a table was included which indicated the expected shelf life of a ganache or other center within a range of Aw.  I've reproduced the table below for reference.  Chef Barriqualt has been consulting with a company for quite a while in crafting products with a shelf life of nearly a year.  During the class, he related some of the things they were doing to achieve an Aw < 0.65 and while it was technically interesting, I'm not sure that any of us would or possibly even could achieve this mark.

 

         Aw                  Shelf Life Expected

===============================

       > 0.90                     < 3 weeks

0.85 < Aw < 0.90         3 – 6 weeks

0.75 < Aw < 0.85      6 – 12 weeks (3 months)

0.65 < Aw < 0.75      3 – 6 months

        < 0.65                  > 6 months

 

As I was reworking one of my own very simple ganaches (2:1 74% chocolate), I was able to get it under to 0.84 from a previous 0.87 with small substituions of sugars (replacing some glucose with invert & sorbitol) and reducing the amount of chocolate by a few grams.

 

Happy formulating!


Edited by lebowits (log)
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Steve Lebowitz

Doer of All Things

Steven Howard Confections

Slicing a warm slab of bacon is a lot like giving a ferret a shave. No matter how careful you are, somebody's going to get hurt - Alton Brown, "Good Eats"

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In the class I took recently in Chicago with Chef Mattieu Barriqualt, a table was included which indicated the expected shelf life of a ganache or other center within a range of Aw.  I've reproduced the table below for reference. 

Thanks for that helpful chart and the insights.  Do you have one of those meters to test Aw?

 

I understand the impact of substituting invert sugar and sorbitol for glucose, but I'm not clear why reducing the chocolate would help.  Can you explain?  Thanks.

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Thanks for that helpful chart and the insights.  Do you have one of those meters to test Aw?

 

I understand the impact of substituting invert sugar and sorbitol for glucose, but I'm not clear why reducing the chocolate would help.  Can you explain?  Thanks.In

I don't have an Aw meter.  They seem to be rather pricey.  Chef had one in the class but it needed to go back to the manufacturer for re-calibration.

 

Reducing the chocolate didn't necessarily help with the Aw.  One of the things I was trying to do was to create a slightly softer and smoother ganache.  Removing a bit of the chocolate took out a small amount of sugar, but more importantly, reduced the amount of dry matter with respect to the amount of liquid.  This in a very small way, helped give me a softer product.


Steve Lebowitz

Doer of All Things

Steven Howard Confections

Slicing a warm slab of bacon is a lot like giving a ferret a shave. No matter how careful you are, somebody's going to get hurt - Alton Brown, "Good Eats"

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      Longhorn Beef, jerusalen artichoke and spring truffle. Upon completing the dish I asked how the beef had been prepared and was told by a rather too enthusiastic waiter that the chef dusts the beef in icing sugar before searing. There was a slight sweetness that I had put down to the wonderful tender beef itself, and I was a little disappointed to be told the chef dusts it in bloody sugar first. Anyway, a pleasing start to the meal, the artichoke and slivers of truffle being very happy bedfellows to the beef.
      Hebridean Langoustine, Carpaccio of Middle White pork brawn and parsnip. This came as a thin rectangle of brawn upon which sat a single langoustine cut in half with a frothed shellfish sauce with parsnip crisps and slivers of parsnip that had been poached in butter. The sauce was extremely rich and strikingly pink, the buttered parsnips having fantastic sweet flavour.
      Spiced Rougie Fois Gras, pain d'epice and prune. A thumb-sized cycliner of fois gras parfait with some bread crisps, prune emulsion and prunes. Nice fois gras and combination of flavours. Simple dish, nicely constructed but did little to show me what they can do in the kitchen.
      Ash Cured Line Caught Haddock, slow poached Gravetye egg and granola. A fantastic dish of very strong flavours. Now, I have never had a slow-cooked egg before so am not sure if the white was in fact just egg white, or had been replaced by something. It had a wonderful texture of fluffy yoghurt. The granola gave a nice crunch and sweetness to the dish, which was required to counter the incredibly strong, salty flavours of the fish, presented again as as a cyliner. Taken together, this was a fabulous plate of food.
      Milk Fed Lamb, tomato, polenta and garlic. A waitress brought a gleaming miniature copper pan of fantastic...I'm going to call it gravy. Another great dish, the lamb came with a small twist of kidney, a rich and sticky garlic clove and a breadcrumbed cheesey-potato thing (is there a name for these?). Rich and satisfying, this was up there with the haddock for pure eating pleasure.
      Artisan cheeses in miniature, frozen grapes and walnuts. Very nicely presented on a slate with a small glass cloche, the four cheeses were tiny slivers. I could definitely have eaten more. The frozen grapes were a nice touch. despite the punctuation on the menu, the walnuts were not frozen!
      White Chocolate and Green Olives, lemon curd. A cracking desert. Another cylinder, this time of white chocolate ice cream, was held off the plate by two pyramid wafers with bits of green olive and drops of lemon curd. Another first for me, the slightly salty olives with the sweet ice cream was a great flavour combination.
      Coffee & Petit Fours. Top quality coffee. A huge box of chocolates was brought to the table with a selection of truffles, white and dark chocolates.
      Overall a very good meal in beautiful surroundings. Service was very good throughout. A bottle of £35 wine (as you can imagine very much at the cheaper end of the list) and the bill was £250 for the two of us.
      I would return. I am not sure I would opt for the tasting menu again though. This was my first tasting menu and I do like the format. My only reservations are that for £85 I am not convinced these dishes offer great value for money. There was not a great deal of luxury ingredients included nor was I wowed by the effort involved in most of these dishes. That said, it was a very enjoyable meal.
      I'm still pondering on this. I feel that I need another tasting menu or two, perhaps at the Ledbury, for comparison. Purely for educational purposes, of course.
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