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Kerry Beal

Report: eG Chocolate and Confectionery Workshop 2014

135 posts in this topic

A few of us left the last stop on the tour (Patisserie Manon) and headed out to Red Rocks Canyon for some sightseeing

 

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Friday morning we convened at Jean-Marie's and spent the day with Melissa Coppel, The Chocolatier of the Year.  She walked us through the piece she won with "Nombre Receta"IMG_2444_resize.JPGIMG_2432_resize.JPGIMG_2434_resize.JPGIMG_2438_resize.JPGIMG_2439_resize.JPGIMG_2441_resize.JPG

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That tool is a Marzipan Roller Board

http://www.pastrychef.com/MARZIPAN-ROLLERBOARD_p_1073.html

I think gfron1 is referring to another sugar tool that Jean-Marie had custom made... I'll post a photo of that item today or tomorrow if someone else doesn't get to it before me.

The white cutting board material "cigar roller" that he used to cut the hard candies is what I'm referring to.  I noted it in my blog 5 years ago because just like his new toys, he was going on and on about it being his new toy then.


Chef, Curious Kumquat, Silver City, NM

A recent write-up in Dorado magazine

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The finished bon bon.  (I like how she said Bon Bon...but I digress momentarily)

This had a fruit compote (reversible PDF) and a yogurt ganache - the shelf life was not very long at all.  I believe when we measured the aW it was somewhere around 0.63

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We then moved onto a "Lion Bar"....a formula that Jean-Marie developed to remind him of a bar back in France that he ate as a child.

You start with Rice Krispie Treats...and for RKT's, use large, store-bought marshmallows, because they work the best.  Don't use your own marshmallows.IMG_2473_resize.JPGIMG_2470_resize.JPGIMG_2472_resize.JPG

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We made Lemon Ganache Marzipan which was delicious -

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Then, we all got a bad case of Spray Booth envy - cabinets to warm 4 or 5 spray guns, cabinets to keep your coco butter warmed to the perfect temp, a booth like no other - they use more colored cocoa butter just to clean out their gun than I use in an entire production run....

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If having a bad case of paint booth envy wasn't enough - then we shown the enrobing room(s).  The cooling tunnel is so large that they keep it in two rooms.  This also facilitates different temperatures in the enrobing room and the tunnel room.

Melissa also shared some decorating ideas...

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There was also a discussion about putting a foot on our slabbed ganache (Melissa calls this a Chablon - pardon my spelling)

We all fell in love with Melissa's guitar -

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Saturday brought Jean-Marie.  Hard filled candies; Gummies, with a marshmallow backing (not store bought)...and some wonderful off the cuff discussions about business in general.  That alone was worth the price of admission. 

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Hard filled candies - sugar work - an awesome demo with some ideas for "home" work...

Jean-Marie had an antique sugar work machine in his lobby and I asked him if he used it, he smiled and told Lionel to go get "it" and Lionel brought  back a new machine.  Hand cranked, with different dies that can be switched out to make different shaped sugar work...now that would be fun to have

 

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Lionel and his wife of 4 months....

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Edited by RobertM (log)

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We were going to hold our reception by the hotel's pool, underneath the clear skies of Vegas with the bright neon lights shining off the delicate bon-bons, but Vegas was having a heat wave (yes, even in Vegas) and we didn't think that everyone's chocolates would make it very long under 95 degrees.  So, we switched up the plans and moved the party to a room, which eventually spilled out into the hallway. 

Door Prizes (donated by our very generous sponsor's) were given out - I wasn't quick enough with the camera to get everyone's picture with their booty - IMG_2552_resize.JPGIMG_2553_resize.JPGIMG_2554_resize.JPGIMG_2555_resize.JPGIMG_2556_resize.JPGIMG_2563_resize.JPG

I think we shut it down about 3:00 a.m.  and got up the next morning to do it all again....

 

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One of the amazing side effects of attending the conference is the ability to meet and get to know some truly amazing people.  The level of creativeness shown by the attendees never ceases to amaze me, regardless of whether they are professionals or hobbyist.   One such eG friend, Ilana, hasn't yet been able to make it to a conference, but has often sent us some things to share during the reception.  She's a great friend and this year, she sent us a T-Shirt from her business in Israel.  We took these to show her, that she was with us in spirit.  Can't wait until she is able to join us for a weekend

 

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Finished Gummies - Some people went all "GaGa" over them

 

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Sunday was dedicated to playing in the kitchen and Melissa came in to show us some additional decorating ideas -

Jean-Marie stopped in on his "hog" - we cut the nougat and caramels from Friday and Saturday as well - Lionel stopped in for a visit; the Giant Squirrel made an appearance;

 

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...and then it was over.  We said our goodbyes, see you next year, and before Ruth and Kerry went, they attempted to channel Casino Chrissy and, like her, pay for the trip at the slot machines....

 

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Many thanks for taking the time to share.  esp. the Food.

 

i know very little about making chocolate treats, but have always enjoyed these 'blog-gets'

 

now then :

 

attachicon.gifB.Potato.jpg

 

are those two baby scoops on top of the potato what I think they are ?  is there melted cheese

 

under those Mounds ?

 

:biggrin:   glad to see a bit of Green next to it.

 

a recent "Food Unwrapped " show  from GB, S3E7  'easter special'

 

looked at Flavonols and Chocolate.  this is in chocolate you can get in GB. only one from Belgium

 

had a significant amount.

 

there there is this:

 

http://www.thechocolatelife.com/forum/topics/1978963:Topic:3401

 

Ill still eat the TJ's Dark  just in case.

 

again  thanks for sharing.

 

:biggrin:

Sour cream indeed - with cheese under - and bacon!

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missed the Bacon.

 

Wow !

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The finished bon bon.  (I like how she said Bon Bon...but I digress momentarily)

This had a fruit compote (reversible PDF) and a yogurt ganache - the shelf life was not very long at all.  I believe when we measured the aW it was somewhere around 0.63

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attachicon.gifIMG_2468_resize.JPG

aW was 0.96 actually - almost water!

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So Melissa and JM had two different methods of mixing ganache.  Melissa had chocolate and liquids at 35º C before incorporating.  Also she stated that not melting the butter was just old fashioned and that ganache was fine with the butter melted in with the liquids.  

 

JM espoused the method that apparently Valrhona is using these days - add a bit of the 35º C liquid to the melted untempered chocolate at 32º C expecting all the fat to split out - then gradually introducing the remaining liquid until an emulsion is obtained.  In JM's words - "it will look like you fucked up the recipe until it comes back".  The theory being that you get better homogenization of 'all' the fats if you separate them out first.  Ganache should be 34º C when done.  

 

They used a shit load of sorbitol in their products.  They preferred sorbitol over glucose in bon bons because it doesn't change the texture (glucose making a centre more chewy).

 

When making a curd - heat to 82º C - not to 85º C - it will split at 85 but not at 82.  Apparently Morato explains why - haven't had a chance to look it up yet.

 

Centers that will be cut need at least 18% cocoa content.

 

Software to calculate aW - Prochoc or L'Envers des Matieres (available from Libraire Gourmande).

 

aW of 0.62 to 0.65 will give a shelf life of 3 months.

 

Powdered dextrose (aka powdered glucose) is used on a silpat for rolling out nougat instead of rice paper.

 

If recipe calls for silver gelatine - and you have gold - use 5% less by weight.

 

Hot water will fix a split ganache.

 

Yogurt powder will clump if you heat it.

 

Ganaches with egg yolk use invert sugar to reduce aW.

 

To make a pipeable  PDF - take 100 grams of fruit puree with 30 grams of sugar, blend with 1 kg of PDF until light and fluffy.

 

Pectin - green=slow set=jam=thermoreversible

           - yellow=amidated=apple=PDF=non thermoreversible

           -NH=thermoreversible=glacage or nappage

 

And "it's only my opinion - but it's right!"

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This gadget

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can make these shapes (and I think it can make a few more, depending on which "plate" you put in) - should be used with hard candy without a filling but for the demo we used the strawberry filled hard candy

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Kerry,

I had to laugh at the Jean-Marie/Valrhona method of mixing ganache--causing the fat to separate out deliberately.  I don't know if you remember or not, but you and I discussed difficulties I had with Valrhona's Opalys white chocolate and its tendency to split in a ganache.  So now when I encounter this supposed failure, I can just say it is the way it was meant to be!

 

Jim Dutton

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Hey Kerry, the pipeable PDF is as simple as it appears? No tricks to it that weren't needed in the notes for those who saw it being done?

 


It's kinda like wrestling a gorilla... you don't stop when you're tired, you stop when the gorilla is tired.

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      It was my birthday.
      We had the tasting menu.
      Provenance and and locality are obviously very important to the chef. The 5 or 6 main suppliers are listed on a front page of the menu and all were within a 25 mile radius of the hotel.
      Bread was a choice between sweet onion rolls, sourdough and focaccia, all homemade. I took rather a liking to the sweet onion rolls and took slight advantage of the generosity of the bread waitress who seemed to appear every few minutes offering more.

      I thought the room itself very attractive. Perhaps 10 tables, well-spaced in the main room, and a smaller room with 4 tables adjoins this.
      we ate
      Longhorn Beef, jerusalen artichoke and spring truffle. Upon completing the dish I asked how the beef had been prepared and was told by a rather too enthusiastic waiter that the chef dusts the beef in icing sugar before searing. There was a slight sweetness that I had put down to the wonderful tender beef itself, and I was a little disappointed to be told the chef dusts it in bloody sugar first. Anyway, a pleasing start to the meal, the artichoke and slivers of truffle being very happy bedfellows to the beef.
      Hebridean Langoustine, Carpaccio of Middle White pork brawn and parsnip. This came as a thin rectangle of brawn upon which sat a single langoustine cut in half with a frothed shellfish sauce with parsnip crisps and slivers of parsnip that had been poached in butter. The sauce was extremely rich and strikingly pink, the buttered parsnips having fantastic sweet flavour.
      Spiced Rougie Fois Gras, pain d'epice and prune. A thumb-sized cycliner of fois gras parfait with some bread crisps, prune emulsion and prunes. Nice fois gras and combination of flavours. Simple dish, nicely constructed but did little to show me what they can do in the kitchen.
      Ash Cured Line Caught Haddock, slow poached Gravetye egg and granola. A fantastic dish of very strong flavours. Now, I have never had a slow-cooked egg before so am not sure if the white was in fact just egg white, or had been replaced by something. It had a wonderful texture of fluffy yoghurt. The granola gave a nice crunch and sweetness to the dish, which was required to counter the incredibly strong, salty flavours of the fish, presented again as as a cyliner. Taken together, this was a fabulous plate of food.
      Milk Fed Lamb, tomato, polenta and garlic. A waitress brought a gleaming miniature copper pan of fantastic...I'm going to call it gravy. Another great dish, the lamb came with a small twist of kidney, a rich and sticky garlic clove and a breadcrumbed cheesey-potato thing (is there a name for these?). Rich and satisfying, this was up there with the haddock for pure eating pleasure.
      Artisan cheeses in miniature, frozen grapes and walnuts. Very nicely presented on a slate with a small glass cloche, the four cheeses were tiny slivers. I could definitely have eaten more. The frozen grapes were a nice touch. despite the punctuation on the menu, the walnuts were not frozen!
      White Chocolate and Green Olives, lemon curd. A cracking desert. Another cylinder, this time of white chocolate ice cream, was held off the plate by two pyramid wafers with bits of green olive and drops of lemon curd. Another first for me, the slightly salty olives with the sweet ice cream was a great flavour combination.
      Coffee & Petit Fours. Top quality coffee. A huge box of chocolates was brought to the table with a selection of truffles, white and dark chocolates.
      Overall a very good meal in beautiful surroundings. Service was very good throughout. A bottle of £35 wine (as you can imagine very much at the cheaper end of the list) and the bill was £250 for the two of us.
      I would return. I am not sure I would opt for the tasting menu again though. This was my first tasting menu and I do like the format. My only reservations are that for £85 I am not convinced these dishes offer great value for money. There was not a great deal of luxury ingredients included nor was I wowed by the effort involved in most of these dishes. That said, it was a very enjoyable meal.
      I'm still pondering on this. I feel that I need another tasting menu or two, perhaps at the Ledbury, for comparison. Purely for educational purposes, of course.
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