Cipollini Onions

[vengroff]

Last night I drizzled some cipollini onions with EVOO, S&P and put them in to roast alongside a small chicken. When the chicken was ready, the onions were soft, but they didn't have the carmelized crust one associates with roasted foods. The taste was mild and uninspiring.

What should I do with these onions next time to get a better result? Just plain roast them longer? Other preparations entirely?

[Sandra Levine]

I've braised them in beef stock along with chestnuts. This is a good Thanksgiving dish.

[SobaAddict70]

They're great, pickled in a sweet and sour marinade and served as an antipasto.

SA

[Jinmyo]

I blanch them, remove the skins, and sear in EVOO. Then do with them as I will in terms of roasting or braising or whatever.

[johnjohn]

I prepared them a few months back from a recipe in one of the Union Square cookbooks. I don't remember the specifics, but you brown them in a pan and cover with red wine. Simmer uncovered until tender and the wine reduces to a syrup. There might have been some herb/spices added - I don't remember. They were a big hit a long with a roast tenderloin.

johnjohn

[vengroff]

Thanks, all.

There will be blanching, searing, and braising in the future.

Soba, do you have a recipe for the sweet and sour marinade? I'd like to give that a try too.

[SobaAddict70]

Sure -- I'll post it when I get home tonight. (at work right now)

SA

[Matt Seeber]

didn't have the carmelized crust one associates with roasted foods.  What should I do with these onions next time?

in order to caramelize the onions, the sugars must brown. if the onions were stewing in a large amount of chicken fat you won't get that result.

you didn't say if you had peeled the onions first - i would suggest it.

roast them separate from the chicken and at a slightly higher temperature. you may need to finish them over a flame to acquire the color. at the last minute add a nut of butter, some fresh thyme and a tiny amount of the chicken fat.

[vengroff]

Matt, thanks for the tips.

I think I got it partially right, but not close enough. I peeled the onions and placed them on a rack next to the chicken so that they would not sit directly in the chicken's pan juices.

I like your idea for finishing them over flame. I guess I tend to think of roasting as a final main cooking step, followed only by making a pan gravy while the roasted meat rests.

What do you think of Jinmyo's suggestion to pre-sear the onions? That also seems a very promising approach to me.

[SobaAddict70]

Sorry about the delay in getting back to you, vengroff.

Anyway, here's the recipe as promised:

Cipollini onions

EVOO

Garlic cloves, peeled and crushed lightly

Cloves (about 5 to 6, less if you prefer)

White wine vinegar

Sugar

Kosher salt (a smallish pinch)

Peperoncino or black peppercorns (either 1 pepper or about 10 peppercorns)

1. Peel onions. Cook them in boiling water for 3 minutes, then blanch in cold water.

2. Saute onions and garlic in EVOO; do not allow the vegetables to color.

3. Combine 3 or 4 T. water and the rest of the ingredients to the garlic and onions. You can vary the proportions of the marinade ingredients to your taste, but I prefer a ratio of sugar to vinegar on a 1:4 (tablespoons) basis.

4. Partially cover pot, and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

5. Cool thoroughly. This is best if you let the onions sit for at least 1 day prior to serving. They'll also keep for up to two weeks, stored in the refrigerator, and their flavor will improve by leaps and bounds the longer they're refrigerated.

Try serving these with prosciutto or gamy birds such as duck, goose, or turkey.

SA

[scamhi]

What should I do with these onions next time to get a better result?  Just plain roast them longer?  Other preparations entirely?

I start out by peeling them using a hot 400 degree oven and roast with EVOO and kosher salt. Depending on size after 30-40 minutes add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of balsamic vinegar, bring roating pan up to the burner and reduce balsamic vinegar to a syrup. Great at room temp.

[mixmaster b]

I think I got it partially right, but not close enough.  I peeled the onions and placed them on a rack next to the chicken so that they would not sit directly in the chicken's pan juices.  

in order to caramelize the onions, the sugars must brown.  if the onions were stewing in a large amount of chicken fat you won't get that result.  

I am confused.

My guess is that the onions were too dry, sitting on the rack, and actually needed to be sitting on the floor of the pan, in the chicken fat, in order to have caramelized. (Also, I would guess that contact with the pan would help caramelization, while sitting on the rack may have prevented it.)

Matt, maybe if there was way too much fat, would it prevent caramelization? I understand that juice, stock, or other water-based liquids would hinder the process and cause stewing, but I thought fat was key for getting things nice and brown.

[Matt Seeber]

maybe if there was way too much fat, would it prevent caramelization

exactly - then it's boiled in fat, not roasted

[jogoode]

I blanch them, remove the skins, and sear in EVOO. Then do with them as I will in terms of roasting or braising or whatever.

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I had a lot of trouble removing the skin from the tiny onions; it didn't peel off as easily as that of the big ol' onions I'm used to cooking with. Does blanching with the skins on help make it easier to remove the skin?

[appreciator]

I blanch them, remove the skins, and sear in EVOO. Then do with them as I will in terms of roasting or braising or whatever.

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I had a lot of trouble removing the skin from the tiny onions; it didn't peel off as easily as that of the big ol' onions I'm used to cooking with. Does blanching with the skins on help make it easier to remove the skin?

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I don't know for sure about cipollini onions but with pearl onions, they are much easier to peel if you blanch them for a couple of minutes first. I do think this would work with cipollinis though as I've seen pearl onions as subsititute for cipollinis in various recipes.

[jogoode]

I blanch them, remove the skins, and sear in EVOO. Then do with them as I will in terms of roasting or braising or whatever.

←

I had a lot of trouble removing the skin from the tiny onions; it didn't peel off as easily as that of the big ol' onions I'm used to cooking with. Does blanching with the skins on help make it easier to remove the skin?

←

I don't know for sure about cipollini onions but with pearl onions, they are much easier to peel if you blanch them for a couple of minutes first. I do think this would work with cipollinis though as I've seen pearl onions as subsititute for cipollinis in various recipes.

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Excellent. Thanks!

[Tess]

When I can get them any more, I use them instead of pearl onions in braised dishes. Or I oven-roast them alone, as you do with shallots.

It's harder and harder to find them around here, though. Where I used to get them in bulk, they now come in those funny little packages by Mel!ssa*. She does that to shallots, too, but at least you can sometimes find shallots elsewhere. Last time I saw bulk cipollinis, they were big honking red ones for $6/lb at Whole Foods. I bought one and it was OK, but not a substitute for the little ones.

*Public Enemy No. 1 where produce is concerned, in my view.