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Cookbooks 2014


teonzo

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I suppose it's time to start looking for what the next year will give us.

February will see the release of a new book by William Curley:

Patisserie: A Masterclass in Classic and Contemporary Patisserie

This seems to be based on modern pastries where chocolate is not the main ingredient. I really loved "Couture Chocolate", so I hope this new one will be on par.

October will see the release of a book by Dominique Ansel:

Dominique Ansel: The Secret Recipes

I'm curious to see what he will include.

I've also heard rumours that Massimo Bottura is preparing a book for Phaidon, but it's just an unconfirmed rumour.

Teo

Teo

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I wonder if there'll be a Cronut recipe in Ansel's book?

If he's smart enough he should put it. It's clear to everyone that he invented them, plus he has the copyright for the name. Giving away the recipe won't do any harm, since there already are a lot of clones. Clones are a great way to promote the original and spread the word about it without spending money in advertising. Just look at the macarons and Pierre Hermé: he gave away all his recipes, now you find macarons and Ispahan clones everywhere. This did not create Hermé any harm, he's more famous than ever and still expanding.

Teo

Teo

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Some more stuff:

 

David Kaplan, Nick Fauchald, Alex Day - "Death & Co: Modern Classic Cocktails"

This seems a must buy in cocktail books.

 

Christopher Kostow - "Beyond the Vineyard: In Search of a Napa Valley Cuisine"

I'm curious to see how much pages will deal with the restaurant and how much with the Valley.

 

Gunnar Karl Gíslason, Jody Eddy - "North: The New Nordic Cuisine of Iceland"

Same here, I'm curious to see how much will be dedicated to the restaurant and how much to Iceland.

 

Per-Anders Jorgensen - "Eating with the Chefs"

I'm not interested about the contents, but I'm sure it will include tons of great photos and good writing.

 

Christian F. Puglisi - "Relæ: A Book of Ideas"

This is a must buy for me, I really liked everything I've seen by Puglisi.

 

Charles Phan - "The Slanted Door: Modern Vietnamese Food"

I'll wait for some reviews before deciding.

 

 

 

Teo

Teo

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I'm really picky about buying them, but I've started to expand my collection again.

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The Vegetable Literacy pic is technically from September 2013.

Other books that I've bought recently are "One Good Dish" and "Heart of an Artichoke", both by David Tanis, and "The Art of Simple Food II" by Alice Waters.

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A new edition of "La Cocina al Vacío" from Joan Roca and Salvador Brugués has just been published. It is announced as a "reviewed" and "expanded" edition of a masterpiece.

 

So I preordered it and received one of the first copies. It is a bilingual edition that alternates pages in Spanish and English.

 

I am extremelly disappointed. It turns out that the only "expanded" content is about new 30 time/temperature profiles for foods that were not included in the previous editions (vegetables and seafood, mainly), and some new comments about using brines before vacuum-bag. Maybe some minor changes too, but most of the original content remains untouched. There are no new recipes. The original text, which left us readers with as many questions as answers, is mostly unchanged.

 

The two most serious problems are, IMHO, that 1) there's no acknowledgement of all the publications and research that has taken place in the 11 years since it was first published. The bibliography has not been touched whatsoever, the newest reference corresponds to 2002. Nothing about Baldwin or Modernist Cusine contributions. And 2) the technical/scientific errors in the original piece remain. They claim that the reduced pressure in the bag allows cooking at reduced temperatures because water vapour is produced at a lower temperature (big error, the bag, once sealed, is subject to atmospheric pressure). They also claim that the cooking time may depend upon variables such as the volume or weight in "unprecise" ways that must be determined by trial and error (we now know that they depend mainly on type of food, shape and thickness, and that they can be quite precisely computed). Many aspects of the technique are not discussed, and some key foods like eggs are not even mentioned.

 

I published a more detailed review (in Spanish) here.

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Chapter One: An Irish Food Story is my favorite this year (published 12/31/13).  Really, surprisingly good.  Traditional yet modern.  Beautifully photographed.  http://www.amazon.com/Chapter-One-Irish-Food-Story/dp/0717157873/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401055749&sr=8-1&keywords=Chapter+One%3A+An+Irish+Food+Story

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Other releases coming out in the next months:

 

Martin Benn - "Sepia"
I'm really curious about this top restaurant in Australia, I hope this book will be on par with the one by Ben Shewry.

Alexandre Gauthier - "Alexandre Gauthier: Chef, La Grenouillère"
This is in the bottom of my want list of all the restaurant books coming out this fall.

Nicolaus Balla, Cortney Burns - "Bar Tartine: Techniques and Recipes"
The previous Tartine books were winners, hopefully this one will be on the same level.

Vincent Lemains - "Ladurée Chocolate"
Don't know what to expect, the previous Laduree books left me a bit cold.

Johnny Iuzzini - "Sugar Rush: Master Tips, Techniques, and Recipes for Sweet Baking"
This seems about basics so I'm not that much interested, but Iuzzini is always top class.

Jean-Pierre Wybauw - "Fine Chocolates 4: Creating and Discovering Flavours"
A must buy for me.

Brooks Headley - "Brooks Headley's Fancy Desserts: The Recipes of Del Posto’s James Beard Award–Winning Pastry Chef"
Must buy too.

Antonio Bachour - "Bachour Simply Beautiful"
And another must buy.

Ecole Grand Chocolat Valrhona - "Chocolate Master Class: Essential Recipes and Techniques"
I'm not a fan of books aimed both to professionals and amateurs (as were the previous Flammarion/Valrhona books), so I'll wait to find this for cheap.

Dave Arnold - "Liquid Intelligence: The Art and Science of the Perfect Cocktail"
This seems to be a must for cocktail lovers.

 

 

 

Teo

Teo

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My copy of Relae shows up tomorrow. Anyone else planning on getting it?

I am. I had a fantastic meal at Relae a few years ago, and am very intrigued to learn more about chef Christian Puglisi's creative process and techniques.
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Surprised that no one has mentioned Jennifer McLagan's Bitter that was released within the last few weeks.

Anna Nielsen aka "Anna N"

...I just let people know about something I made for supper that they might enjoy, too. That's all it is. (Nigel Slater)

"Cooking is about doing the best with what you have . . . and succeeding." John Thorne

Our 2012 (Kerry Beal and me) Blog

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