Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

MikeTMD

Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment (Part 6)

Recommended Posts

I'm going to try chicken breasts cooked at 57.5C first. If I like them, then I will try chicken breasts at 55C. To give you an idea, I like my steak very rare :)

I bagged them with some sea salt, black pepper, garlic powder, thyme, lemon juice, butter, and olive oil. They measure approximately 35mm in thickness, however I will cook to pasteurisation as if they were 40mm, which is 3hr18min, just as a margin of safety, and in case the bath goes slightly below 57.5C. I'm also sure that they were above 4C when I put them in the bath, so they would take less time to come up to temperature anyway.

Will report later this afternoon when I've had them for lunch!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had boneless skinless chicken few times, last night I brined for 2 hours in 10% it did not lost a single drop of juice in the bag. In fact the meat was sticking to the plastic - I had nothing in the bag except the chicken breast - no fat no spices. I topped them later with a rub and some kumquats and stuck them under the broiler based on a recipe from JG Vongerichten.

Thing is, the texture reminds me too much of Boars head lunch meat. I now sort of have the feeling that they meat glue chicken breast together, then SV it for hours.

I have tried few times to incorporate SVed chicken into normal recipes but always come back to the lunch meat like texture. I find if I pan sear it afterwards, the browned part gets too hard and stringy in contrast to the rest of the meat.

I think I will try 2 things next: gently brown the skinless breast in a pan before SVing as well as take one with bone and skin and finish it off under the broiler.

Question I have is, after browning the breast do I need to chill if I stick it into the water bath right away? In the Polyscience youtube video for tenderloin he is doing that but then he is using a true vacuum machine which lowers the boiling point which I do not have. I use ziploc.


Edited by jk1002 (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to try chicken breasts cooked at 57.5C first. If I like them, then I will try chicken breasts at 55C. To give you an idea, I like my steak very rare :)

I bagged them with some sea salt, black pepper, garlic powder, thyme, lemon juice, butter, and olive oil. They measure approximately 35mm in thickness, however I will cook to pasteurisation as if they were 40mm, which is 3hr18min, just as a margin of safety, and in case the bath goes slightly below 57.5C. I'm also sure that they were above 4C when I put them in the bath, so they would take less time to come up to temperature anyway.

Will report later this afternoon when I've had them for lunch!

I just ate the chicken. In total the chicken was in the bath for around 3:40 as I was making some soup as well, so it was definitely past pasteurisation.

The chicken was delicious! I really loved the texture. It wasn't at all soggy or flimsy or sponge-like. Perfect structural integrity, nice soft texture, wonderfully moist. It wasn't even that pink at all.

The skin was very soft, but not unpleasantly so. My girlfriend is quite fussy when it comes to food, but she loved this chicken and said it is the best so far, having also tried chicken at 63.5C and 60C. She wasn't a fan of the soft skin though. I was thinking perhaps I could place it skin side down in an extremely hot pan, but I wouldn't want to cook the meat any further. Perhaps I will try with my blowtorch next time. I thickened the cooking juices with some cornflour (probably could have found a better thickening agent in my TexturePro kit, but I'm lame at molecular gastronomy/cooking), and drizzled some over :) It made a delicious sauce!

Having tried this temperature, I'm not sure if I would prefer it at a lower temperature. I will, however, try it at 55C for experiment's sake.

Furthermore, I have also been rather retarded with my brining, and been doing 1% instead of 10%! Haha, no wonder I wasn't noticing much difference!

I had wonderful results with these chicken breasts, and they are just standard supermarket chicken breasts. I am sure they would be even nicer if I bought some of the organic or free range chicken breasts :)

Again, terrible photography with my iPhone 3G, and horrible presentation skills, but in case you are interested:

26017_337943640558_500890558_3627287_783020_n.jpg

26017_337943870558_500890558_3627289_2695320_n.jpg

Happy with this afternoon's results, I'm going to make a sous vide version of Chinese drunken chicken.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thickened the cooking juices with some cornflour (probably could have found a better thickening agent in my TexturePro kit, but I'm lame at molecular gastronomy/cooking), and drizzled some over :) It made a delicious sauce!

Try potato starch; lots of professionals use it in preference to cornflour.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I need some help, fast please. I had the opportunity to buy a beef tongue from my farmer (pasture raised, all natural, happy cows, etc.). It is sitting in my fridge and I want to cook it in my Sous Vide Supreme. I have been searching and searching and searching but I can't find any suggestions for how to do this. Can anyone tell me what temperature and how long to cook this thing for? Thanks for your help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check out this link and the discussion following it.

Basically the two methods discussed are the Thomas Keller 70 degrees celsius for 24 hours or NathanM's 56 degrees celsius for 48-72 hours. A number of people suggest brining to get a corned-beef flavour but you can do it without; depends on what you want to do with your tongue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to try marinading the gammon for 24 hours in some kind of apple cider, honey, mustard, clove mix (haven't really decided what), and then try 60C for <24 hours. Then go over the skin with a blowtorch. Not really sure what I will serve it with, but the other day I had pork neck in a modern japanese restaurant which was served with "apple confit", so I will try experimenting with that. To be honest, it wasn't that spectacular, in fact, the apple still tasted raw, it just had apple juice on it, or something.

Tonight I'm having the shanghai drunken chicken thighs. I went out for a friend's party last night, and wasn't able to get back at the time I planned, so the thighs had a lot longer at 57.5C than I had anticipated, but perhaps they will be even softer now :)

Will post photos later :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tonight I'm having the shanghai drunken chicken thighs. I went out for a friend's party last night, and wasn't able to get back at the time I planned, so the thighs had a lot longer at 57.5C than I had anticipated, but perhaps they will be even softer now :)

Will post photos later :)

I boiled 500ml water with 50g salt, 50g sugar, and some chopped up ginger and spring onion. After a few minutes I added 500ml cold water to cool it down. When it was very cold I added the chicken thighs and brined for 3 hours.

Then I boiled some shaoxing rice wine with some more ginger ans spring onion, rinsed the chicken thighs, bagged the thihgs, added the wine, ginger, spring onion, sesame oil, salt and pepper. Cooked at 57.5C. I went out to a friend's party, and would have let them cook for just over 4 hours, but it ended up being 6 hours. However, the texture was SUBLIME!

I cooled them with ice water, then added some chicken stock I had made from the bones of the thigh to the bag, and poured in more rice wine. Marinaded for a whole day. Then sliced thinly.

Boiled some shanghai noodles with the juice from one bag of thighs, the left over chicken stock, and topped up with some boiling water. Then drained. Then served in a bowl with the juice from the other bag and some more hot water, it made a delicious soup!

Drunken chicken placed on top, and garnished :)

This is the waterbath with the lid off:

26017_342572415558_500890558_3643235_7111847_n.jpg

DSC00712.JPG

26017_342576510558_500890558_3643258_1972569_n.jpg


Edited by Guy MovingOn (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just did burgers for the first time. I had 93% lean beef patties from wholefoods.

I had em in at 60.5c for an hour. They lost very little juice, but were not even close to what shake shack dishes out.

I had them them in ziplock vacuum bags, after tossing them into the tank both the patty in both bags did release some more air so i had to take em out and improve the vac. Does this happen normally, or is it an issue with the ziplock system that the vacuum is not strong enough?

Good but not very good burger which I guess has to do with the meat. Is a very convenient way to cook them though, especially in my open kitchen as I have only very little smell from the pan searing.

JK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you put anything in the burgers to bind them? How thick were they? At 60C they must have been rather well done? Any seasoning? Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just did burgers for the first time. I had 93% lean beef patties from wholefoods.

I had em in at 60.5c for an hour. They lost very little juice, but were not even close to what shake shack dishes out.

I had them them in ziplock vacuum bags, after tossing them into the tank both the patty in both bags did release some more air so i had to take em out and improve the vac. Does this happen normally, or is it an issue with the ziplock system that the vacuum is not strong enough?

Good but not very good burger which I guess has to do with the meat. Is a very convenient way to cook them though, especially in my open kitchen as I have only very little smell from the pan searing.

JK

The quality of the meat is everything. Don't skimp on the quality. I recommend 133F (56C) cooked long enough to pasteurize. Then sear in a super-hot pan for not more than 45 seconds per side (or use a torch).

Any air that was in the bag will expand. So there were probably some air bubbles you didn't notice. There could be air trapped in the patties. If that is the issue, then you can get the air out. Wait a little while before pumping some more air out. The hotter the water is, the more the air will expane.

Did you put anything in the burgers to bind them? How thick were they? At 60C they must have been rather well done? Any seasoning? Thanks.

I personally prefer hamburgers that are just ground beef with no binder. With really good beef cooked to a nice medium rare, the burgers can be great. (Just be sure to cook long enough to pasteurize).

Sometimes I like to add a tablespoon or so of 5 to 8% brine and 1/4 cap liquid smoke.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would you expect an adverse effect to marinading pork gammon (smoked ham joint) in a marinade containing apple cider (6%abv) for 24 hours?

If I sear before bagging then the small amount of alcohol on the surface should have been cooked off?

I'm then thinking to cook at 60C for 24 hours.

Im thinking of a mixture containing apple juice, butter, honey, mustard, and cloves to go in the bag, based on the kind of original English roast gammon style.

Any suggestions??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also tried cooking Tetsuya's Confit of Ocean Trout sous vide last night.

Followed the traditional recipe, except I cooked the fish at 45C for 25 minutes.

I have to say, the texture was superb! I think I actually preferred the kind of soft, melt in your mouth feeling that this provided, rather than the still somewhat firm texture of salmon mi-cuit. I absolutely love everything raw, I can eat 2 tuna steaks raw for lunch... but I think the delicate texture of cooking at 45C for 25 mins was something I haven't experienced before. I can't imagine any other cooking method being able to consistently reproduce fish of that texture, where the texture and degree of doneness is the exact same throughout!

My presentation skills are appalling, my lame excuse is I'm a starving student!

26018_349549420558_500890558_3660346_3560029_n.jpg


Edited by Guy MovingOn (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just ate the chicken. In total the chicken was in the bath for around 3:40 as I was making some soup as well, so it was definitely past pasteurisation.

The chicken was delicious! I really loved the texture. It wasn't at all soggy or flimsy or sponge-like. Perfect structural integrity, nice soft texture, wonderfully moist. It wasn't even that pink at all.

The skin was very soft, but not unpleasantly so. My girlfriend is quite fussy when it comes to food, but she loved this chicken and said it is the best so far, having also tried chicken at 63.5C and 60C. She wasn't a fan of the soft skin though. I was thinking perhaps I could place it skin side down in an extremely hot pan, but I wouldn't want to cook the meat any further.

Why don't you try removing the skin and cooking it separately just before serving? Set it aside in the fridge before you put the chicken in the bath. Spread it out well on a piece of parchment on a sheet pan, dry it well, brush with oil (or bacon grease), season and then place another parchment on top. Put a brick or other weight on top (I use a bacon press) and then cook on high heat in your oven - should take about 15-20 minutes to get nice crispy roasted skin which will make a beautiful garnish for your naked chicken breast. I have also read about people cutting the skin in strips and frying like bacon but I have not tried this. You can cook the skin ahead and hold it warm until serving.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had no binders, just plain sirloin ground. Alls they do is form it into patties for you. I seasoned heavily with seasalt and pepper and then stuffed it into the bag.

They didn't loose much juice while in the bag, yet weren't that juicy compared to shake shack. I had slowly caramelized onions (40 minutes in the pan) on top which was awesome. I had pan seared them for maybe a minute on each side.

The thing with lower temperature for me is, it often takes too much time to pasteurize. I was home from work and gym around 8, I ate at 9.30. No way I throw something in for 2 or 3 hours at that hour. Will try the 56c next week though and report back.

In general I would recommend sticking the bag with the patty into the water for 2 minutes and then seal to get the trapped air out. Not sure if the stronger vacuum of a foodsaver will get all the air out but I somehow doubt that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the meat was not juicy and there wasn't liquid in the bag then the meat may not have been juicy to start out with. If the burgers you are comparing them to were cooked medium rare rather than medium that would also account for the difference.

The texture at 140F is distinctly different from the texture at 133F. But if the meat isn't juicy to begin with then the degree of doneness might not be the issue.

How done are the burgers that you are comparing them, too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just ate the chicken. In total the chicken was in the bath for around 3:40 as I was making some soup as well, so it was definitely past pasteurisation.

The chicken was delicious! I really loved the texture. It wasn't at all soggy or flimsy or sponge-like. Perfect structural integrity, nice soft texture, wonderfully moist. It wasn't even that pink at all.

The skin was very soft, but not unpleasantly so. My girlfriend is quite fussy when it comes to food, but she loved this chicken and said it is the best so far, having also tried chicken at 63.5C and 60C. She wasn't a fan of the soft skin though. I was thinking perhaps I could place it skin side down in an extremely hot pan, but I wouldn't want to cook the meat any further.

Why don't you try removing the skin and cooking it separately just before serving? Set it aside in the fridge before you put the chicken in the bath. Spread it out well on a piece of parchment on a sheet pan, dry it well, brush with oil (or bacon grease), season and then place another parchment on top. Put a brick or other weight on top (I use a bacon press) and then cook on high heat in your oven - should take about 15-20 minutes to get nice crispy roasted skin which will make a beautiful garnish for your naked chicken breast. I have also read about people cutting the skin in strips and frying like bacon but I have not tried this. You can cook the skin ahead and hold it warm until serving.

Thank you for the suggestion :) I have tried this with duck breast, by placing the skin between 2 sheets of foil and two pans with some seasoning, with some crockery on top to weigh it down. Then for the final 5-10mins left it uncovered. Was wonderful.

When I've cooked salmon/trout, I just fried the skin in a frying pan with some olive oil or butter, and they come out wonderfully crisp and hold their shape really well.

I wanted to try the soft skin as it was an experiment of temperature to test for the shanghai drunken chicken.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I need some help, fast please. I had the opportunity to buy a beef tongue from my farmer (pasture raised, all natural, happy cows, etc.). It is sitting in my fridge and I want to cook it in my Sous Vide Supreme. I have been searching and searching and searching but I can't find any suggestions for how to do this. Can anyone tell me what temperature and how long to cook this thing for? Thanks for your help!

Check out this link and the discussion following it.

Basically the two methods discussed are the Thomas Keller 70 degrees celsius for 24 hours or NathanM's 56 degrees celsius for 48-72 hours. A number of people suggest brining to get a corned-beef flavour but you can do it without; depends on what you want to do with your tongue.

Thanks so much for your help. Here is what I ended up doing. I soaked the tongue overnight to purge it and then bagged it with half an onion, a carrot, a 3 inch piece of celery, 2 tbs of sea salt, peppercorns, a sprig of thyme and three ice cubes of beef stock. I cooked it at 64C for 24 hours - a compromise in temp between NathanM and Keller and another Chef I know personally. I served it with 100 ml of a very neutral veal demi seasoned with a little bit of wasabi and further enriched with some apple juice which I reduced from about 250 ml to 60 ml.

It tasted delicious but next time I will do it for at least 48 hours. It was not quite soft enough and I could not get the skin to peel off - I had to remove it with a knife. This was a real pain in the butt.

I will also have more patience and brine it as it did not have enough of the corned tongue flavor I was wanting. NathanM's 56C made me nervous as I do not find medium rare tongue an appealing thought. But next time, I think if I have brined it, that I may follow NathanM. I would love to hear his comments because I could find nothing in the way of follow-up on how that worked out for people.


Edited by Merridith (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I compare them to shake shack which to me is the NYC gold standard. People wait 90 minutes and more in line to get them, is an outdoor pick up place in madison square park. They cook theirs through I believe, no pink inside, very juicy though and very flavorful. Even now in winter, late 3 o clock I waited more then half hour until I had mine in my hand. I actually believe the longer you wait the better it tastes, a psychological thing .....

In regards to binding agents, I dont think you need them Merridith since the bag will help to keep the patty in shape.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any ideas for sous vide guinea fowl?

and whole quail? They look so cute, I really want to sous vide them and present them in a mini casserole dish :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I compare them to shake shack which to me is the NYC gold standard. People wait 90 minutes and more in line to get them, is an outdoor pick up place in madison square park. They cook theirs through I believe, no pink inside, very juicy though and very flavorful. Even now in winter, late 3 o clock I waited more then half hour until I had mine in my hand. I actually believe the longer you wait the better it tastes, a psychological thing .....

In regards to binding agents, I dont think you need them Merridith since the bag will help to keep the patty in shape.

It sounds like you are going to have to experiment with different temperatures AND different meat. I would explore different fat content. One thing that will happen with meat that has hih fat content that is cooked at high temperatures is that you get a lot more fat rendering -- this can be interpreted as juiciness. It seems to me if something cooked well done seems juicy that it is probably the rendered fat that is doing the trick. You can also try adding a tablespoon or few of a weak (5% to 8%) brine.

I had the problem of brisket seeming dry when I first starting doing it sous-vide and realized after a lot of experimentation that the problem was the meat itself. Switching to a brisket with more marbling resulted in something that seemed juicier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I compare them to shake shack which to me is the NYC gold standard. People wait 90 minutes and more in line to get them, is an outdoor pick up place in madison square park. They cook theirs through I believe, no pink inside, very juicy though and very flavorful. Even now in winter, late 3 o clock I waited more then half hour until I had mine in my hand. I actually believe the longer you wait the better it tastes, a psychological thing .....

In regards to binding agents, I dont think you need them Merridith since the bag will help to keep the patty in shape.

Using 93% lean ground sirloin is not going to get you anything resembling the Shack Shake's burgers which are made from a blend of sirloin, chuck, and brisket. Very different flavor, and approximately 80% lean, which is worlds apart from the meat you used.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... I bagged them ... using my normal SV pressure (97%) in my chamber machine.

I cannot be sure of the exact vacuum which is pulled at that setting, but I find it is sufficient to extract enough air so that the bags easily sink. ...

Ummm.

A question.

Yes we know that bags floating horizontally is not good.

And yes, its good to get as much air out as you can. Though I'm sure that the last small bubbles aren't critical.

But isn't it a worthwhile idea (at least for those without such chamber machines) to routinely use solid glass gems/nuggets/pebbles/cubes to add a little weight to the bottom of all bags to prevent any bag ever floating horizontally?

These items are food-safe, non-tainting, cheap, re-usable, freezable, easily washable, can be blasted in the oven for as long as you like to sterilise them and then stored in a sealed sterilised jamjar.

Since they need to be found and removed before service, maybe unusual colours (like blue) are a good thing!

Its probably also worthwhile choosing those with a simple shape and a shiny-smooth surface for better sanitisation.

Examples:

Clear cubes in the UK http://www.carnmeal.com/details/1990/glass-ice-cubes-1-kilo-approx

Blue pebbles in the UK http://www.dotcomgiftshop.com/deep-blue-glass-gems-in-bag400g

Blue cubes in the USA http://www.save-on-crafts.com/bluecubes1.html

or Blue 'vase gems' http://www.save-on-crafts.com/skybluvasgem.html

But if you have a local floristry supplier, they should be cheaper than mailing ballast.

Thanks for the excellent idea!

I bagged my last series of meats with marbles which I had at hand, works perfectly to keep bags vertical, especially when suspended with a skewer.

gallery_65177_6724_71396.jpg

BTW it is very practical to label the bags with a Brother P-touch, indicating thickness and required minimal cooking time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

  • Similar Content

    • By lindaj1
      Is there any recipe from the modernist universe or any other galaxy to make ketogenic (low carb) puff pastry and strudel type doughs?  Unusual ingredients OK.  There must be a way...
    • By haresfur
      I got to thinking after the disgusting job of separating globs of fat from sous vide short ribs and debating never doing them that way again. If the fat renders out in a braise, but not in the sous vide, what temperature would you need to turn the fat liquid to get rid of it? Is it below well-done or do you really have to cook the shit out of it? Is it just temperature or a time&temperature thing?
       
      Along those lines, what happens with marbled, tender cuts? where is the sweet spot between solid fat and something more palatable?
    • By Daily Gullet Staff
      By John Sconzo

      The Daily Gullet is proud to present this, the first in a multi-part, front-row report on the recent "Spain and the World Table" conference. Watch for subsequent installments in this topic.

      In his introduction of Ferran Adria, Thomas Keller -- perhaps the most celebrated American chef ever -- described four elements that go into making a great chef. The chef must be aware. Once aware of one’s culinary and other surroundings that chef can then be inspired, which leads to the ability to interpret those surroundings. But a great chef does not stop there. Instead, the great chef continues to evolve. Ferran Adria, perhaps more than any other chef who has ever lived, is the embodiment of those four elements.

      The moment that Ferran Adria strode towards Thomas Keller on the stage at the CIA/Greystone’s World of Flavors’ “Spain and the World Table” Conference was electric -- as if a giant Van de Graf generator had been turned on. The feeling didn’t subside when Adria took the stage from Keller; it only became more pronounced as the packed crowd rose to its feet, raining applause, admiration and love on the Spanish master. Adria accepted the response with aplomb, and gave it right back to the audience -- and to his fellow Spanish cocineros, who were standing off to the side. He brought each one up to join him on the stage for a rousing thank-you to the conference organizers, sponsors and participants. Once this emotional release subsided, Adria got down to what everyone had been waiting for -- his discussion and demonstration.

      Ferran Adria, with eyes sparkling like the finest cava, began speaking Spanish in a voice as gravelly as the beaches of the Costa Brava, while Conference Chairman Jose Andres translated. The crowd, hushed and straining for every word, moved forward in their seats as Adria explained El Bulli and himself, with a lesson in recent culinary history thrown in. Ferran explained that El Bulli is not a business. While offshoots of El Bulli are operated on a for-profit basis, the restaurant runs without profit as a primary motivation. For example, he said, the greatest difficulty they have is distributing reservations. Given the extraordinary demand and the severely limited supply, he explained that they could simply raise the price of a meal to the point where the supply and demand met. Indeed, the price of a meal at El Bulli is in itself quite reasonable given the stature of the restaurant and well within means of most motivated diners should they be able to get there, and this is how Adria prefers it. He stated that he was not interested in cooking solely for those with the most money. He prefers to work for people with a true interest in exploring the limits of cooking with him. To this end he showed a short film depicting “A Day in the Life . . .” of El Bulli set to the Beatles’ song of the same name. The film showed a couple’s response to the experience.

      Ferran’s voyage into creativity began with a visit to Jacques Maxima at Le Chanticleer Restaurant in Nice, France. He learned from Maxima that to be creative is not to copy. This idea changed his entire approach to cooking -- from making classic cuisine to making his own. Aware of elaborate books of French cuisine, Adria resolved to catalogue his work, the results of which are the richly detailed El Bulli books, published by period. These books, as wonderful as they are, are huge and extremely expensive. During his presentation, Adria announced -- and demonstrated -- that the individual dishes photographed and described in a chronology within each book are all now available online at elbulli.com.

      He finished the philosophical discussion by talking about the general style of haute cuisine that he and others are engaged in. While others have coined the term “molecular gastronomy” to highlight the scientific component of the creativity involved, Adria rejected it, saying that all cooking is molecular: most of his techniques are in fact rather simple and don’t employ radical new technology. Most of the technology that they do use has been around for some time; they have simply adapted it to their own purposes. Nevertheless, he applauds contributions to gastronomy from Harold McGee and other food scientists, and welcomes their collaboration in the kitchen. He has yet to find a term that describes the movement: as of now, he feels that there really is no good name for this style of cooking.

      More than any other single thing, Ferran Adria is known for the use of “foams” in cooking. While he is proud of his achievements with foams, he stressed that while appropriate in some circumstances, the real utility of foams is limited. He bemoans their ubiquity -- and wishes to not be blamed for others’ poor deployment of the concept. In the course of describing this and other techniques, Adria made a point of stating that using them should not be inferred as copying. Techniques and concepts are to be used and shared. He invited everyone to learn and harness whatever they found interesting, and to employ it in to their own pursuits.

      Another set of techniques discussed and demonstrated by the master and his assistant, Rafa Morales from Hacienda Benazuza, included three types of spherification. These included the use of calcium chloride (CaCl) and sodium alginate as well as the converse, and exploration of a new agent, gluconodeltalactone. The original combinations of alginate into CaCl for “caviar” production, and CaCl into alginate for larger “spheres” have chemistry-related limits as to what can be sphericized. In private correspondence, Harold McGee explained to me that Adria described encapsulating a mussel in its own juice. While this would make the dish technically an aspic, unlike conventional aspics it remains a liquid. Adria said that though gluconodeltalactone is very new, and they are just beginning to get a handle on it, he is very excited by it. He also demonstrated a machine for spherification on a larger scale than they had originally been able to do, as well as liquid nitrogen and freeze-drying (lyophilization) techniques. At the conclusion of his demonstration -- and thus the Conference -- the audience once again awarded him a standing ovation.

      While Adria’s appearance was the culmination of the conference, the energy it produced was not just because of his stature in the world of gastronomy -- it was also due to the excitement generated by the conference that preceded it. If there had previously been any doubt, Thomas Keller’s welcome of Adria was a clarion: Spanish cuisine has landed on North American shores and is finding a niche in the North American psyche. Spanish cuisine -- in its multifaceted, delicious entirety -- lives here, too.

      + + + + +

      John M. Sconzo, M.D., aka docsconz, is an anesthesiologist practicing in upstate New York. He grew up in Brooklyn in an Italian-American home, in which food was an important component of family life. It still is. His passions include good food, wine and travel. John's gastronomic interests in upstate northeastern New York involve finding top-notch local producers of ingredients and those who use them well. A dedicated amateur, John has no plans to ditch his current career for one in the food industry. Host, New York.
    • By docsconz
      About Jose Andres
       
      Throughout his career, Jose’s vision and imaginative creations have drawn the praise of the public, the press and his peers. José has received awards and recognition from Food Arts, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Saveur, the James Beard Foundation, Wine Spectator, and Wine Advocate. In addition, José has been featured in leading food magazines such as Gourmet as well as the New York Times, the Washington Post, Good Morning America, Fox Sunday Morning News with Chris Wallace, the Food Network, and USA Today.
       
      Widely acknowledged as the premiere Spanish chef cooking in America, José is a developer and Conference Chairman for the upcoming Worlds of Flavor Conference on Spain and the World Table at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, November 2 – 5, 2006.
       
      In 1993, Jose moved to Washington, DC, to head the kitchen at Jaleo. From there, Jose took on executive chef responsibilities at neighboring Café Atlantico and later Zaytinya. In July of 2003, Jose embarked on his most adventurous project to date with the opening of the minibar by jose andres at Cafe Atlantico. A six-seat restaurant within a restaurant, minibar by jose andres continues to attract international attention with its innovative tasting menu. In the fall of 2004, Jose opened a third Jaleo and Oyamel, an authentic Mexican small plates restaurant and launched the THINKfoodTANK, an institution devoted to the research and development of ideas about food, all with a view toward their practical applications in the kitchen.
       
      Every week, millions of Spaniards invite Jose into their home where he is the host and producer of “Vamos a cocinar”, a food program on Television Española (TVE), Spanish national television. The program airs in the United States and Latin America on TVE Internacional.
       
      Jose released his first cookbook this year, first published in English, Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America (published in the United States by Clarkson Potter) and shortly after in Spanish, Los fogones de José Andrés (published by Planeta). The book is an homage to Spanish cooking and to tapas, one of Spain's gifts to the world of good cooking.
       
      Jose Andres is passionate, intelligent, dedicated, witty and a fan of FC Barcelona.
       
      Jose has been a member of the eGullet Society since 2004.
       
      More on Jose Andres in the eG Forums:
      Cooking with "Tapas" by Jose Andres
      Vamos a Cocinar - cooking show with Jose Andres
      Jaleo
      José Andrés' Minibar
      Zaytinya
      Oyamel Cocina Mexicana, Crystal City
      Cafe Atlantico
       
      Jose Andres recipes from Tapas in RecipeGullet:
      Potatoes Rioja-Style with Chorizo (Patatas a la Riojana)
      Moorish-Style Chickpea and Spinach Stew
      Squid with Caramelized Onions
    • By gibbs
      With Modernist Cuisine I waited a couple of years and ended up with a copy from the 6th printing run the advantage of this was that all errors picked up in the erratta had been corrected in the print copy.  I am looking to get modernist bread soon and wondered if someone had purchased it recently to check or if someone knew of hand if they have printed any additional corrected runs 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×