No salt Iron Chef: What would the winner's secrets be?

[Syzygies]

I periodically find myself cooking for elderly family members who must severely restrict their salt intake. (Having been the driver to the ER several times after sequences of restaurant meals, and seeing a radical improvement after following a low salt protocol, yes I'm willing to stipulate for purposes of this discussion that in some cases this is necessary.)

When one has thoroughly enjoyed good restaurant and home cooking in better days, it is hard to find joy in drab food meant for the elderly. Looking forward to eating is looking forward to life itself. If our skills as cooks mean anything to us, they should come to the fore at times like this.

What would an Iron Chef do, cooking with no salt?

I phrase my question this way, because previous threads have hung up on the need to reduce salt, or the politics of restricting salt for the rest of us, or on finding complete recipes for average cooks to support such a diet. An Iron Chef may be able to recite 10,000 recipes, but generally cooks without a recipe and knows what to do. Moreover, when cooking in a very limited kitchen, after shopping in a strange town, even to execute a recipe as written involves a lot problem-solving. To leave out salt, and yet end up with something that tastes surprisingly good to the person that matters, is a fascinating problem to solve. I want to know techniques (divorced from the question of complete recipes) that the winner would apply to enhance flavor, if an episode of Iron Chef left out the salt.

Standard advice is to add lemon, and increase the herbs. I interpret this as to be very thoughtful about acid balance, and to use fresh herbs which taste more alive and are less likely to be overbearing. But this advice alone would quickly wear thin.

A bit of something in the madeira, sherry, even armagnac category, with the alcohol boiled off, introduces a new note of depth and roundness. This can be applied in dishes where such a note might be unexpected if one were using salt.

Umami - Coming from an Irish-American background, I'm of the conclusion that umami was simply off the radar in my childhood cuisine, and in many similar American traditions. Even the Brits have their funky dark sauce concoctions, perhaps hard to find without salt, that introduce an umami component. If one is going to leave out salt, one has to master umami, to compensate.

Dried porcini mushrooms (less challenging than many wild mushrooms, and widely available), kelp (yes from the sea, but not salty?).

It would be good to have a list of options to consider, as one tastes and tweaks any recipe, without prejudice as to what flavors belong in the dish.

[rotuts]

although dangerous unless you completely understand their medications, especially diuretics of a certain class, KCl might be an option for 'table salt'.

Ive voluntarily dropped my Na intake. very little prepared foods, use no to very little Na in my own cooking and use KCl for table salt.

initially it has a harsh taste but you get used to it.

again with certain diuretics that spare KCl, (which is usually excreted in the urine if ingested in excess to the daily requirement) supplemental KCl can be fatal.

remember: this is just me. severe caution to anyone that wants to try this.

[Shel_B]

I've drastically cut my salt intake and, now, after a few months, find that I don't miss it at all. However, I've moved more to a vegetarian diet, and rediscovered the taste of truly fresh, good quality, vegetables. IMO, they don't "need" much, if any, salt.

We have been treated to excessive salt in the prepared and restaurant foods we buy and have become used to, perhaps almost dependent, on addicted to, salt for flavor. I was talking about cooking with Toots last week - she's old school European when it comes to much of her cooking and eating preferences, and she mentioned that her old family recipes call for far less salt than similar US and contemporary recipes.

My first suggestion is to try working with good, fresh vegetables.

Edited June 5, 2013 by Shel_B (log)

[rotuts]

roasting those veg. adds a further layer of flavor. lemon juice (fresh) , a little sugar on certain veg and herbs also help.

[Keith_W]

Beat me to it, rotuts. Most "low salt" diets recommend replacing the Na+ with K+. K+ is regulated within the body to a tight window, between 3.7 - 5.0 mmol/L. In a healthy person, excess K+ is excreted by the kidneys. In someone with kidney failure, or as you say, some medications - K+ might accumulate in the body. Typical medications include: potassium sparing diuretics (e.g. Spironolactone), ACE-inhibitors (i.e. any drug ending in -pril, e.g. Ramipril, Captopril, Perindopril, etc), ARB's (any drug ending in -sartan e.g. Candesartan, Telmisartan, Irbesartan), etc.

In any case, tolerating a low salt diet is a matter of conditioning. This is much like people who don't like skim milk but get used to the taste after a while. I switched from full cream milk to soy milk for my breakfast cereals. Initially I hated it but now I find full cream milk too heavy. Salt is the same - once you start reducing your salt intake, you will get used to it. If you have a medical condition that requires a low salt intake, I would suggest you simply start reducing the amount of salt you add to your food. You will get used to it.

(edit) looks like Shel_B beat me to it too

Edited June 5, 2013 by Keith_W (log)

[Syzygies]

In this particular case, kidney failure is on the horizon, so any chemical alternative to salt is out. Yes, fresh vegetables, any food that tastes alive, my tomato pasta was a hit as much as anything because I started from scratch with some good, ripe tomatoes.

But what tweaks in place of salt would win Iron Chef? (All chemicals are banned.) I've got the rough idea what to cook, but I want the food to taste better.

Very alive, fresh foods, and master umami, but what else?

[rotuts]

spice, ie fresh hot chili in moderation?

[HungryC]

I'm thinking of dried mushroom powder, dried powdered shallots, and similar substances used in cooked dishes, and a mixed herb/spice blend as a "sprinkle". Some of the sensory pleasure of salting food is the flavor contrast produced between salted exterior and less salted interior. Using an herb or spice blend as a table condiment might increase the enjoyment factor and return some feeling of control to the diner....he/she can't have a saltshaker, but can shake a non-salt spice blend w/abandon.

[Shel_B]

I'm thinking of dried mushroom powder, dried powdered shallots, and similar substances [...] Using an herb or spice blend as a table condiment might increase the enjoyment factor and return some feeling of control to the diner

Good idea ... and let's not forget that there are many "salt alternative" blends that are commercially available, such as the variety of Mrs. Dash and Trader Joe's 21 Seasoning Salute. There are enough options on the market that one can have a variety of different blends on hand for different dishes. Plus, it's not too difficult to make your own blend. Recently I came across a couple of recipes for home made lemon pepper. Let your imagination be your guide.

Back around 1991 or so, Jim Tarantino published a great book called Marinades ... etc in which he offered up a myriad of recipes and ideas for marinades and spice blends. A great book. http://www.eatyourbooks.com/authors/1080/jim-tarantino

[BeeZee]

I think about intensifying the flavors of the ingredient...for example, oven dried tomatoes can be a flavor burst, different than a fresh tomato. Roasted garlic tastes different than sauteed, etc.

[judiu]

Pensezy 's spices has a large array of salt free seasoning blends, some of which even make eggs taste good with no salt! HTH!

[Ttogull]

I think this is covered above, but maybe I have a slightly different approach. Having recently become interested in the vegan lifestyle, I find it somewhat interesting that some want to replicate the omnivore diet using vegan ingredients. Why (IMO), when purely vegan dishes without omnivore counterpart are so outstanding?

Something similar here. Why try to replicate the sense of or give the illusion of salt? There are so many incredible salt-free dishes that one does not need to replicate. Salt-free fries? Please! They will always taste like cr*p. But give me the choice between salt-free collard greens roasted in the oven for 1 hour or ANY version of salted fries, and I will pick the greens every time. It's hard to explain, but I don't think there is a global solution. No version of fake salt will suffice in every dish. Instead, smart substitutes, perhaps dependent on the individual and the dish, will be preferred.

[rlibkind]

Why try to replicate the sense of or give the illusion of salt?

Salt does more than contribute "saltiness" to food: it's a flavor enhancer. Finding no-or low-sodium mechanisms to enhance flavor surely is a worthwhile pursuit for all, but especially those who elect to restrict or limit sodium intake for health reasons.

[Ttogull]

Why try to replicate the sense of or give the illusion of salt?

Salt does more than contribute "saltiness" to food: it's a flavor enhancer. Finding no-or low-sodium mechanisms to enhance flavor surely is a worthwhile pursuit for all, but especially those who elect to restrict or limit sodium intake for health reasons.

Yes, my question was rhetorical.

That said, the WSJ weekend section has a blurb that states acids can be more effective than salt. For meats, it suggests red wine or sherry vinegar. Lemon juice for everything else. I could see variations. Malt vinegar with fries, for instance, would cover for no salt.

Somebody - Thomas Keller? - says vinegar is the most underused condiment in the kitchen.

[Pan]

On 6/6/2013 at 9:05 PM, Ttogull said:

I think this is covered above, but maybe I have a slightly different approach. Having recently become interested in the vegan lifestyle, I find it somewhat interesting that some want to replicate the omnivore diet using vegan ingredients. Why (IMO), when purely vegan dishes without omnivore counterpart are so outstanding?

Something similar here. Why try to replicate the sense of or give the illusion of salt? There are so many incredible salt-free dishes that one does not need to replicate. Salt-free fries? Please! They will always taste like cr*p. But give me the choice between salt-free collard greens roasted in the oven for 1 hour or ANY version of salted fries, and I will pick the greens every time. It's hard to explain, but I don't think there is a global solution. No version of fake salt will suffice in every dish. Instead, smart substitutes, perhaps dependent on the individual and the dish, will be preferred.

I'm replying over 3 1/2 years later, but I never liked salt on my fries. I always like the taste of the fried potatoes without salt. I also never liked salted nuts. Now, however, I'm also on a genuinely low-salt diet, which means that I'm cooking a lot for the first time since grad school (I never add salt when I cook, though I sometimes used to add hot sauces or masalas that included salt) and mostly can't go out to restaurants anymore. I'm wondering if RecipeGullet has a category for low-salt dishes, and will try to find out. Meanwhile, in case anyone is still reading this thread, what I've found over the years (because I also used to cook for my parents when they were on low-salt diets) is that Indian food is great without salt, because it uses so many aromatic spices! A great favorite of mine and (when they were alive) my parents is Madhur Jaffrey's Chettinad Fried Chicken, except that we love the nutty taste of urad dal and always use at least 4x as much as her recipe calls for. We also cut down on the oil and ghee. I've found that my stomach is usually upset after I eat out at even really good Indian restaurants in New York like Awadh, because though their food may be delicious, they really overuse oil and ghee. I may have more to say if anyone is reading. :-)

[Pan]

To follow up on my own post, I found zippo of low-salt recipes on RecipeGullet, though I'm not positive I searched right (I searched that forum only for "low salt"). A lot of people have the idea (illusion, I'd say) that salt is essential for taste. It decidedly is not. However, so many recipes use salty ingredients that are tasty. I love cheese, to take one example, but right now, I can't eat more than tiny amounts of it. Anyway, that's enough for one night. I'll check back in a day or two and see if there's been any traffic in this thread.

[gfweb]

Interesting topic. For me, everything needs at least a little salt..even cookie dough.

 

[Anna N]

 Have to agree with you, gfweb. I spent almost a month in September/October of last year forced to endure a low salt/no salt diet. The food would likely have been inedible even with salt. Nevertheless I would not like to repeat the experience anytime soon.  I am not heavy-handed with the salt but it has to be there.  Mrs. Dash did not do the trick for me.  My sympathies for those who must endure it  and kudos for those who think they can make food taste good without it. 

[gfweb]

No salt food tastes er...hollow, to me. The standard tricks of adding acid or glutamates (which usually bring a little sodium) helps it, but it still isn't the same.

 

And I'm not one to pour salt on food. I don't use very much when cooking.

Edited January 21, 2016 by gfweb (log)

[huiray]

Just thinking out loud here, not saying I've tried every thought I murmur here...

For starters...nasi ulam. Leave the udang kering in, leave out extra salt.

ETA: Or even a basic nasi kerabu, leaving out the salty stuff and/or reducing the salt in the already-low-salt accompaniments...(one recipe). P.s. you can get bunga telang from Amazon even.

Take a trip to Chinatown, get some really fresh shrimp (like, swimming in the tanks) and really fresh fish (again, like swimming in the tanks). Then do it Cantonese-style, simple steaming w/ ginger & scallions, maybe a splash of good (saltless) Shaohsing wine – the freshness and innate taste of the fish or shrimp may be all you need...  Or pan-fry the shrimp (in shell) w/ ginger & scallions & ground pepper, very hot pan...again, the freshness and clarity and the mild seasoning should speak for itself. Or fry the fish - crispy-like --- its flavor would have its own punch. Or ikan bakar/ikan goreng w/ more turmeric & spices, skip or reduce any NaCl...

Use dashi - made with good kombu/konbu - in Japanese-style cooking, using fresh ingredients; again the innate taste of the ingredients may be satisfactory without any extra NaCl.  

Look for Nyonya dishes where you can scale back or eliminate the NaCl but retain the punch of the seasonings with or without coconut milk.

(Pure Malay dishes might be harder without a touch of salt; but since you don't need to entirely eliminate NaCl - just reduce it to less than 2 g per day - simply scaling back the amount of salt in these dishes, which often don't use that much to start with, may be all that is needed. I guess using belacan would be problematic as *that* is very salty - but a little bit goes a LONG way with this stuff...)

(Think about your days in M'sia...extrapolate your observations regarding "Indian" food, in this respect, towards SE Asian food?)

Yes, sure, having the salt there might make it better, but leaving it out in some kinds of dishes and looking to the innate or other flavors may be fine if not optimal for some people?

Edited January 21, 2016 by huiray
Additional comments (log)

[Deryn]

I can't use soy (soy anything but I particularly avoid soy sauce) any more but my favorite foods are at least reminiscent of Asian flavours, and even Thai foods often include soy sauce and/or fish sauce (which I can use but often forget to add when I am 'concocting' a dish in a hurry). What I like to use a fair bit of though is black vinegar. The current version that I have on hand is mild (acid-wise) but deep in flavour and I have found that when I use it I also often forget to add any salt at all. Liberal use of a roasted sesame oil, loads of ginger and hot elements like chilis, etc. also seem to help when making any Chinese dish. I usually don't miss the umami that I would get from salty soy if I get the combo right.

 

Balsamic vinegar also helps reduce the need for salt in many dishes without adding too much acidic edge. Reduce it to a glaze and throw it on a steak or chicken breast with liberal amounts of pepper and see if it still needs extra salt ... it doesn't for me.

 

The other trick I use is to not include any salt at all during cooking but when serving I add just a very few flakes of a good (flaky, not grainy) sea or maldon salt on top. Sea salt tastes 'saltier' (to me) than regular salt and just a touch of that stuff hitting your tongue every few bites is often sufficient to give the illusion that one is eating a fully salted dish with very little of the dreaded sodium content that we sometimes must seek to avoid.

 

I love salt and if these tricks can satisfy me then I hazard a guess that they will work on many of the elderly (they did on my father and many of his friends at the retirement home where I used to do 'cooking classes' for the residents). I will never use no-salt 'salt' products or Mrs. Dash - they don't cut it with me at all.

 

None of these strategies are earth-shatteringly different or new I know but they work for me and many others. In addition, since we eat with our eyes (and nose), I think the more colourful and aromatic a dish, the less we miss salt as a core ingredient. For that reason, I agree that aromatic ethnic foods like east Indian ones require much less salt in order to taste delicious.

[huiray]

57 minutes ago, Deryn said:

Balsamic vinegar also helps reduce the need for salt in many dishes without adding too much acidic edge. Reduce it to a glaze and throw it on a steak or chicken breast with liberal amounts of pepper...

I second this.

 

58 minutes ago, Deryn said:

...but when serving I add just a very few flakes of a good (flaky, not grainy) sea or maldon salt on top...

Seconded.  Or nice fleur de sel/flor de sal. 

[Pan]

For those of you who are unable to imagine anything without salt: Have you tried saltless Indian food with a lot of a variety of different spices? If you can't stand that without salt, I think it must just be habitual for you.

 

huiray, I definitely never thought of cooking nasi ulam here, where I can't get cashew leaves and the various pokok tumbuh sendiri (wild plants) I used to pick in Terengganu! Nasi kerabu also looks way more complicated to cook and normally dependent on salty ingredients like budu than I want to deal with. I actually think Southeast Asian food is very difficult to cook without salt, and yes, I am completely avoiding adding any salt to anything, because don't forget that sodium also naturally occurs in many foods. I do wonder whether I could make a good version of some dishes like rendang or some curry or asam dishes without any belacan or dried shrimps, though. That might work for me, and I also like the ikan bakar idea. The Cantonese ideas are definitely workable, too.

[huiray]

Pan, you don't need the traditional ingredients for nasi ulam. Think of it as an herbed rice in the style of nasi ulam, if that helps. Use Thai basil, mint, coriander leaves, daun kesom, rau ram, etc. I think the udang kering should be enough, really, without adding more salt - maybe splash some vinegar into it the, or limau kasturi... Try this, without the extra salt, or just a tad...

 

If you are not adding ANY further salt then that narrows the field, but as for SE Asian food REQUIRING lots of salt...eh, to each his own. :-) 

[Pan]

By the way, I love kombu, but I don't think I can work with it, as just half a piece of it apparently contains 90 mg of sodium.