• Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create an account.

  • product-image-quickten.png.a40203b506711f7664fc62024e54a584.pngDid you know that these all-volunteer forums are operated by the 501(c)3 not-for-profit Society for Culinary Arts & Letters? This holiday season, consider a tax-deductible Quick Ten Bucks to support the eG Forums and help us remain completely advertising-free. Thanks to all those who have donated so far!

Tim Chambers

Looking for books on modern Mexican cuisine

24 posts in this topic

I work in Seattle and recently got hired on as a lead line cook at an upscale Mexican restaurant. I was hoping to get some pointers on either books to read or places to do research about modern Mexican cuisine.

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, if you want "modern," I would go to Bobby Flay's books: Mesa Cookbook and Bold American. They are excellent. Bayless is OK, but I prefer Diana Kennedy for the real deal. There are some other "modern" books, like Dos Caminos (restaurant) street food book and Santibanez, also updated street food. Check out Mark Miller too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Southwestern isn't Mexican. Flay and Miler are Southwestern cooks, even though Flay is a NYC guy.

I think Southwestern is more adaptable to "upscale" than traditional Mexican. Not looking for a fight here, just my opinion.

Kennedy/Bayless is indeed the real deal for Mexican.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're serious, you should get Enrique Olvera's huge blue book. Larouuse has a dinky one that's fun but if you're really high end, you need to know what he is doing.

(P.s. I just got back from Mexico last night and bought a book on Modern food in the centro historico and I'll try and remember to post the name tomorrow.)


Edited by rancho_gordo (log)

Visit beautiful Rancho Gordo!

Twitter @RanchoGordo

"How do you say 'Yum-o' in Swedish? Or is it Swiss? What do they speak in Switzerland?"- Rachel Ray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And please, tell me what that object in the center of the soup can be. :huh:


Darienne

learn, learn, learn...

Cheers & Chocolates

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Southwestern isn't Mexican. Flay and Miler are Southwestern cooks, even though Flay is a NYC guy.

I think Southwestern is more adaptable to "upscale" than traditional Mexican. Not looking for a fight here, just my opinion.

Kennedy/Bayless is indeed the real deal for Mexican.

Well, as someone who LIVES in the Southwest (50 mi from Mexico), is from NY, and very knowledgeable about Mexican food: Flay's food is way more Mexican than "southwest"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! Thanks to everyone for the great responses!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, I forgot Richard Sandoval. His Modern Mexican Flavors is a little dated with lots of stacked food and squirts of sauce from squeezy bottles but the idea of taking apart and then reconstructing classics seems like what might inspire.

Un-requested advice: Modern or traditional,(here's my broken record), the foundation of Mexican food is chiles, corn and beans. You need to know these three ingredients inside and out before you start exploring modern, regional or whatever. You need to play with nixtamal and see how it cooks, fries, heats. etc. You need a firm command of the chiles; frsh and dried and you need cook good beans from scratch. You should have tried working with a metate (to master it you'd have needed to start years ago) but you should be able to make a green salsa in a molcajete. If you combine all of this with your traditional European skills, you should be set to go.


Visit beautiful Rancho Gordo!

Twitter @RanchoGordo

"How do you say 'Yum-o' in Swedish? Or is it Swiss? What do they speak in Switzerland?"- Rachel Ray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think Southwestern is more adaptable to "upscale" than traditional Mexican. Not looking for a fight here, just my opinion.

Also not looking for a fight, but it's my impression that it's really the other way around. To me, Southwestern food is, in large measure anyway, comfort food. Not much room or need or desire there for upscale or modern. Insofar as "authentic Mexican cuisine" goes however, there are quite a few Mexican cooks/chefs that are doing utterly amazing things. I remember some meals in Mexico City that were crazy inventive; in particular, at Patricia Quintana's Izote. Authentic Mexican is a much larger genre - limitless in scope, actually. Southwestern cuisine seems far narrower.

As for "upscale Mexican" in the US, two names that are often mentioned alongside Frontera Grill are La Fonda San Miguel in Austin, and Hugo's in Houston. Best would be to visit, of course, but, if that's not practical, the proprietors of both restaurants have published cookbooks and I'd suggest a quick leaf-through of each for some ideas, menus, recipes, photographs, etc., as to how successfully "upscale Mexican" can be done.

.


Edited by Jaymes (log)

I don't understand why rappers have to hunch over while they stomp around the stage hollering.  It hurts my back to watch them. On the other hand, I've been thinking that perhaps I should start a rap group here at the Old Folks' Home.  Most of us already walk like that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As for "upscale Mexican" in the US, two names that are often mentioned alongside Frontera Grill are La Fonda San Miguel in Austin, and Hugo's in Houston. Best would be to visit, of course, but, if that's not practical, the proprietors of both restaurants have published cookbooks and I'd suggest a quick leaf-through of each for some ideas, menus, recipes, photographs, etc., as to how successfully "upscale Mexican" can be done.

.

There might be some difference between upscale Mexican setting and upscale Mexican food, and my impression is the OP is interested in the latter. I grew up eating Mexican food in TX and make it quite regularly at home. I have eaten many times at Frontera Grill and Hugo's. I would describe both as upscale Mexican setting with traditional homestyle food. Great food, done very well with top quality ingredients - but everything at both I could make at home. To obtain similar high-quality food when I lived in TX, one typically needed to find the dumpiest restaurants verging on being shut down by the health department. That's where the really good stuff was, not at the places with clean plates and stuff! So Frontera and Hugo's seem upscale in comparison, but the food is very similar. Ditto for Bayless's books and his restaurant Xoco.

I would consider Bayless's restaurant, Topolobampo, to be both upscale Mexican setting and upscale (modern?) Mexican food. The plating and presentation are closer to what you'd get in a typical high-end restaurant, but with Mexican ingredients. It's good, but prefer Frontera Grill. Actually I prefer Hugo's to both, but they are kinda far apart!

I also enjoy watching Bayless's "Mexico: One Plate at a Time" on PBS. Past episodes have featured Topolobampo - I remember some kind of foam they were using for a modern quesadilla or something. Also, season 8 was set in Baja and was oriented more towards upscale (modern?) Mexican food than previous seasons. Some really cool stuff. I have them recorded, but they are often repeated.

Another cookbook I will add to the mix is the salpicon cookbook:

http://www.amazon.com/The-%C2%A1Salpic%C3%B3n-Cookbook-Contemporary-Mexican/dp/0811860469/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372684018&sr=8-1&keywords=salpicon+cookbook

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pati Jinich's book "Pati's Mexican Table" is geared to home cooking. She also has a TV show of the same name on Nat'l Public TV. The former political analyst is now a full-time homemaker. It's a lovely book, very readable, with charming stories about her upbringing in Mexico City before coming to the U.S. as an adult. Her focus is "real" Mexican everyday home cooking, the kind she grew up with and now feeds her husband and three boys. I'm thinking it's probably not what a professional chef is looking for. Just MHO. :-)


EILEEN

A wonderful bird is the pelican.

His beak can hold more than his bellican!

He can hold in his beak/enough food for a week

And I don't know how the hellican!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pati Jinich's book "Pati's Mexican Table" is geared to home cooking. She also has a TV show of the same name on Nat'l Public TV. The former political analyst is now a full-time homemaker. It's a lovely book, very readable, with charming stories about her upbringing in Mexico City before coming to the U.S. as an adult. Her focus is "real" Mexican everyday home cooking, the kind she grew up with and now feeds her husband and three boys. I'm thinking it's probably not what a professional chef is looking for. Just MHO. :-)

HHMM,, Her sister is a chef, her Father owned restaurants in Mexico and SHE is a Chef

Host of the public television series Pati's Mexican Table, which premiered nationwide in April 2011, cooking teacher, food writer and official Chef of the Mexican Cultural Institute in Washington

I think shes quilified


Wawa Sizzli FTW!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I work in Seattle and recently got hired on as a lead line cook at an upscale Mexican restaurant. I was hoping to get some pointers on either books to read or places to do research about modern Mexican cuisine.

Thanks!

Hi Tim:

As you see by the discussion above, mexican cookery (cuisine) is many things. However, could you elaborate on the mexican restaurant where you will be working (cost range, regular or high-end service). What kind/types of food do they currently offer? Your customer type? They may be used to something current and your direction should follow in the direction where you will still be selling your new dishes. I get excited over simple traditional dishes and new "modern" dishes, which really do not resemble anything I've eaten before.

Regarding what is more mexican, southwestern or yes, tex mex either are hardly Mexican. I'm from Texas and the closest I find in real Mexican food are moles, good enchiladas and a few other chile based dishes. Everything else falls under the Taco Bell column. :)

btw, I would follow ranchogordo's suggestions very closely.


Edited by lochaven (log)

And I want a table for two and a chicken for eight o'clock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, but I wouldn't eat anything off Patti's Mexican table. IMH but very strong O. :raz:

I like the food shots on her website, but the cooking she does on the show hardly produce the same glamor shots. Have never cooked her recipes, but maybe it's time to try a couple.


Edited by lochaven (log)

And I want a table for two and a chicken for eight o'clock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, but I wouldn't eat anything off Patti's Mexican table. IMH but very strong O.

From what I've seen, she's very capable as a Mexican chef. I'd like to eat a meal prepared by her.

Her book and TV show, however, are oriented to the busy people trying to get food on the table. Rick Bayless arrived first at getting authentic home style Mexican, and there was probably no market for her. Nothing wrong, but as said earlier not suitable for pro cooking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, my mother arrived first when she moved to Texas from Mexico in the 1940's at getting authentic home style mexican food. :biggrin:


And I want a table for two and a chicken for eight o'clock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The book is Sazones y andanzas por el Centro Historico by Victor Hugo Aguilar Morales.

sazones_1.jpg

It's very pretty without being silly.

That is a great looking book! Thank you so much for bringing it to our attention. There are lots of books on regional Mexican home style food, but very little (in english) on Modern Mexican fine dining influence by modern spanish and european technique. I will add a link to a short bio on the other chef you mentioned!

http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/bio/enrique-olvera

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HHMM,, Her sister is a chef, her Father owned restaurants in Mexico and SHE is a ChefHost of the public television series Pati's Mexican Table, which premiered nationwide in April 2011, cooking teacher, food writer and official Chef of the Mexican Cultural Institute in WashingtonI think shes quilified

Whoa.... I never said she wasn't qualified. I was actually responding to Tim Chambers' request for 'upscale Mexican' cookbooks. I have her book, have read it from cover to cover, and think she would agree that the recipes in that book are hardly upscale--they aren't meant to be. The subtitle of her book is "The Secrets of Real Mexican Home Cooking", and as I said in my prior post, that is her focus in the book (as she, herself, writes). I certainly didn't mean to offend anyone. BTW, her book just came out and she writes that she now lives in Texas with her husband and kids. She travels a great deal--to DC where, as official chef of the MCI, she often hosts programs, and to Mexico, where she visits family and also travels to towns and villages collecting recipes and traditional cooking techniques. All that in addition to her TV show and teaching! Mighty busy lady.

EILEEN

A wonderful bird is the pelican.

His beak can hold more than his bellican!

He can hold in his beak/enough food for a week

And I don't know how the hellican!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AriadneArts?

No what you said was she was a STAY AT HOME MOM who pretty much wrote a book on home cooking and implied she wasnt very qualified as a chef

Right now at the Smithsonian Institute she is teaching a course on Asian-Mexican fusion cuisine


Wawa Sizzli FTW!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

GlorifiedRice: I am new here. That was only my SECOND post. Yes, I did say she was a full-time homemaker. Sorry, that wasn't totally accurate. You, on the other hand, said "woman now living in DC for the Govt" which is no longer the case. But I wasn't addressing your post at all. Maybe you should read her book. She writes that she spends MOST of her time at home with her family, and that she's happiest when doing so. I thought my third post would clarify my intentions to you, but it apparently did not. I'm sorry you feel I "implied" otherwise, but perceived implications are, at best, assumptions on the part of the perceiver. They may or may not be correct. I absolutely did NOT mean to imply that she lacked qualifications! As for me, I like to give people the benefit of the doubt. Won't you do the same for me? Thanks.

1 person likes this

EILEEN

A wonderful bird is the pelican.

His beak can hold more than his bellican!

He can hold in his beak/enough food for a week

And I don't know how the hellican!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

She's teaching Asian-Mexican Fusion???? Holy cow!! she is really branching out! :raz: lol


And I want a table for two and a chicken for eight o'clock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

    • By Franzisaurus_Rex
      FOOD BRETHREN!
      I need some advice. I have one last piece of pork belly confit in the fridge. I brined these bitches for about 5 days (brine included pink curing salt), vacuum sealed the squares of pork belly with lard and sous vide them at 158 F for 16 hours. I cooked this on 11/10/16 and its been in my refrigerator since. 
      Here is the general recipe I followed, with some modifications based on my taste: https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/...
      The last piece is still vacuum sealed and submerged (mostly) in lard. Any visible pork only has contact with the bag. 
      It's staring at me. And calling my name.
      I want to deep fry this sucker and have a little date night with the handsome devil I see in the mirror every morning, but the last thing I want is spoiled food. I can't find any conclusive information about how long pork confit lasts for. I've only seen references that duck confit or in general that the confit technique will last for months in the fridge. I have found no sources which directly addresses pork confit.
      Questions/Factors I'm Considering:
      - Does pork confit keep for as long as duck confit?
      - Does vacuum sealing have any effect on the length of preservation?
      - Does sous-vide cooking method affect the length of preservation?
      I know I am probably being a bit paranoid, but I thought I would do my due diligence before taking the plunge, so to speak. Any advice on these questions would be extremely helpful and appreciated!
      The Franzisaurus-Rex
      PS - you should totally make this if you are into sous vide, confit, food, or have any respect for the enjoyment of life. Flash-searing these things after cooking was OUT OF THIS WORLD.
    • By JoNorvelleWalker
      The NY Times has a current article in the science section "A Universe of Bubbles in Every Champagne Bottle".
       
      The article asserts that it is better to serve Champagne at warmer than refrigerator temperatures so that the bubbles are larger and convey more flavor.  Also to serve in a narrow glass.
       
      However Gerard Liger-Belair (who is referenced as an authority in the Times article) points out in his book Uncorked (forward by Herve This) that the colder the wine the more viscous and the more dissolved CO2.  Liger-Belair also prefers a goblet to a flute.  I bought Uncorked after reading about it in Liquid Intelligence from Dave Arnold.
       
      Discuss.
       
    • By weedy
      I made a Gellan based fluid gel that I think is 'too thick'.
      (One could say, I'd like more fluid and less gel!)
       
      Anyone know what the best way, if any?,there is to thin it so I can squeeze bottle it? at the moment it's spoonable but way thick.
       
      Could I add water and blender it again?
      or is there another idea?
       
      thanks in advance.
       
       
    • By Gary Burns
      Hello,
       
      This is my first post here -- apologies if I'm making any mistakes on protocol -- I have spent some time checking prior posts but this seemed the best place to jump in.
       
      I have a 13lb skin-on, loin attached pork belly I'm going to cook for Christmas dinner. Coincidentally I also have an Anova sous vide circulation heater and a new plastic tub with a lid.
       
      The recipes I've saw mostly call for seasoning, a water bath for 36 hours and then a deep or pan fry to crisp. Now I have the setup, and look at the combination of the roast and the container I realize I have some questions about what I'm doing -- I've attached a picture below of what we're starting off with. 
       
      Here are those questions:
       
      The fit seems a little tight to me -- is the container size fine? I was planning on seasoning, tying and double bagging it in large ziploc bringing bags ( water displacement, no vacuum sealer ). I've convinced myself the ziplock method is fine, but is standing the meat vertically in a space close to it's dimension for a 36 hour cook ok? After the 36 hours in water, it is Ok to refrigerate? The main recipe I've been using as a base calls for removing it, shocking it and then removing the liquids for sauce before deep frying -- would it be ok to shock, refrigerate for several hours, then bring to temperature in the bath again before proceeding with browning/bringing to temp? If this isn't a bad idea, how long would you keep in the water bath after refrigeration? Deep frying vs. a quick hot oven? I'll rub baking soda on this, and I'll fry if need be -- but does anyone have experience or thoughts on whether you'd be defeating the purpose of using sous vide in the first place if you just used a suitably hot oven to crisp the skin after cooking sous vide and drying the skin beforehand? I'd prefer not to to do an inside stove top fry for something this large right before dinner if it wasn't sacrificing too much.    
      Thanks for any help, would also be great to hear any other useful advice from anyone that's went through a similar process.
       
      Gary
       

    • By pmilas
      HI guys,
       
      I'm here for a bit of advice. We are building a house (in Croatia, Europe), and finally have a chance to build a kitchen as i want it
      We would like to get a professional combi oven, something like this new Rational (a bit pricey) or this UNOX (better price) so that we have a long term solution for our needs.
      The reason we are going for the professional oven is that, for example UNOX, is cheaper than "home combi ovens" from brands like Miele, Gaggenau, etc. and are much better than those.
       
      Does anyone have any experience with pro combis at home? i have only seen a couple of people, at least on the internet, that have them at home. I guess that setup would not be a problem, because we designed a water inlet and outlet for the oven, and the voltage is OK. is there anything we didnt think of? Will that oven have higher maintananace cost, even if its used only couple of days a week?
       
      Thanks for help
       
      P
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.