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Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment, 2011


Qwerty
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Sous Vide Venison Loin

I will be preparing pan seared venison loin for 25 people and will have three 5-1/2 pound whole loins to work with. I am planning on prepping them sous vide and would appreciate any thoughts. Should I sous vide them whole or slice them first? I have seen slices at 55C for 20 minutes but that would take a lot of bags to keep them in a single layer. I expect them to be about 2-1/2"-3" thick which would take 3-4 hours.

Any suggestions? It will be served with an aquavit-juniper berry demi glace. Thanks.

Paul Eggermann

Vice President, Secretary and webmaster

Les Marmitons of New Jersey

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I think Modernist Cuisine says something about venison to the effect that enzymes present in the meat tend to make it mushy with the longer timeframes of equilibrium cooking, and therefore for venison it's better to cook it for a shorter period of time in a water bath that is hotter than your desired core temp. This means you have to really keep your eye on the clock. I don't have my copy of MC in front of me so I can't be more specific.

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I believe it is 5.0 degrees C as the initial core temp. ,not the final temp.

Yes, that is correct. The little circle moves along the graph to show you an estimate of the core temperature over time.

Vengroff, is that app approved in teh app store?

Yes, it is in the app store as of last week. I have also submitted an update that fixes some bugs on iOS 5 and adds the ability to choose temperature display in F or C and dimensions in inches or mm by going to the Settings app. Should be out in a few days.

[Edited to add:] More details and a FAQ.

Edited by vengroff (log)

Chief Scientist / Amateur Cook

MadVal, Seattle, WA

Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code

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I think Modernist Cuisine says something about venison to the effect that enzymes present in the meat tend to make it mushy with the longer timeframes of equilibrium cooking, and therefore for venison it's better to cook it for a shorter period of time in a water bath that is hotter than your desired core temp. This means you have to really keep your eye on the clock. I don't have my copy of MC in front of me so I can't be more specific.

You're right. On page 3-96 there is a note about cooking in a higher than core temperature bath to prevent mushiness in tender game and on 3-98 there is a recipe for venison loin that has you cook a four bone section in a 65C bath to a core temperature of 56C in about 25 minutes. The photo looks extremely rare to me.

Paul Eggermann

Vice President, Secretary and webmaster

Les Marmitons of New Jersey

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The new and very interesting modernist cuisine cookbook, "Volt, Ink." by Michael and Bryan Voltaggio (two contenders on a very successful season of Top Chef) has two recipes for venison loin. Michael cooks a 2 pound loin for 1 hours at 56C, while Bryan cooks a 3 pound venison strip loin for 55 minutes at 58.5C.

The loins are cooked whole, and then sliced crosswise, and served two to a plate.

You can always cook it longer, but you can't reverse it if it gets too mushy or overdone!

Edited by Robert Jueneman (log)
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Yes, it is in the app store as of last week. I have also submitted an update that fixes some bugs on iOS 5 and adds the ability to choose temperature display in F or C and dimensions in inches or mm by going to the Settings app. Should be out in a few days.

That is a very, very cool app.

Looks good. Any plans for an Android version? The Android market currently has two SV apps, neither of which looks greatly inspiring ...

Leslie Craven, aka "lesliec"
Host, eG Forumslcraven@egstaff.org

After a good dinner one can forgive anybody, even one's own relatives ~ Oscar Wilde

My eG Foodblog

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I believe it is 5.0 degrees C as the initial core temp. ,not the final temp.

Yes, that is correct. The little circle moves along the graph to show you an estimate of the core temperature over time.

Vengroff, is that app approved in teh app store?

Yes, it is in the app store as of last week. I have also submitted an update that fixes some bugs on iOS 5 and adds the ability to choose temperature display in F or C and dimensions in inches or mm by going to the Settings app. Should be out in a few days.

[Edited to add:] More details and a FAQ.

Just bought the app - very nice. One suggestion would be to add suggested cooking times, not just the time to come to temperature, of course based on what it is you are cooking. Like tender vs tough meat.

Mark

My eG Food Blog

www.markiscooking.com

My T shirt site: Guy Bling

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Tonight we had chuck roast, cooked as per Douglas Baldwin's suggestions in his Sous Vide for the Home Cook. I started with a nice piece of boneless, Angus, chuck roast. Seared it for 2 minutes per side on the BBQ, bagged and vacuum sealed with a light sprinkle of 21 Seasoning Salute (a Trader Joes spice blend) and a touch of fresh ground pepper. In the bath for about 28 hours at 130F. I took it out of the bath, dried with paper towel and back onto the hot BBQ for another two minutes per side.

OMG! One of the most flavorful and tender pieces of meat ever!

I had never done the "sear before" technique but I liked the results. I think I recall reading somewhere that someone did a test of sear before and and after vs just sear after and couldn't tell enough of a difference for the effort. I am going to try my own test though.

I made a jus from the bag juices by heating them in a small sauce pan with a little more 21 Seasoning Salute, pepper and salt. Didn't bother to strain it so it was a bit cloudy, but yummy! I got the juices out by first snipping a small corner off the bag and tipping them out into a pan. Made it a lot easier to manage the juice and the meat afterwards. Maybe that's obvious to everyone?

The picture was taken mid-meal as everyone was so hungry that I forgot to take a picture until we were half-way through! And I didn't put any jus on before the picture was snapped.

chuck.jpg

Edited by mgaretz (log)

Mark

My eG Food Blog

www.markiscooking.com

My T shirt site: Guy Bling

My NEW Ribs site: BlasphemyRibs.com

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Latest thing to come out of my sous vide, based on a recipe on Seattle Food Geek:

Lamb flatbread with feta and roasted tomato.

The lamb was a shoulder chop sous vide at 56C for 24 hours with salt and pepper. I think I may have overdone the sear just a bit, but the lamb was still tender and juicy. Those store bought pitas were unfortunately pretty tasteless and cardboard-like :(

Lamb flatbread.jpg

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Here is a shot of Sous Vide Venison Loin with Sweet Potato gratin and roasted Brussels Sprouts that I did on Monday. The New Zealand venison loin was from D'Artagnan on New Jersey. It was cooked sous vide for 1 hour at 58C and then seared for 1 minute on each side, simply sliced and served with a demi glace-juniper berry sauce. The venison was absolutely great, nice and rare and almost fork tender.

venison.jpg

Paul Eggermann

Vice President, Secretary and webmaster

Les Marmitons of New Jersey

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Yes, it is in the app store as of last week. I have also submitted an update that fixes some bugs on iOS 5 and adds the ability to choose temperature display in F or C and dimensions in inches or mm by going to the Settings app. Should be out in a few days.

That is a very, very cool app.

The app is now very good as of the update last night which allow overriding the lower temps. Couple more things i would like:

1) Would love to see a "pasteurization" option step. This could be a switch that would add a pasteurization time once the core temp is reached. Time would be based on final item temperature. I realize this might be a bit complicated to add for beef, chicken and fish since the times are difference, but starting with chicken would be great, since that's the one that we all pasteurize and the one that really NEEDS to be cooked to pasteurization. without that option i'm stuck having to remember to add it to the end of the timer and look up how long pasteurization is at each temp.

2) there are some strange thickness limitations in some items. I understand the need to reach core temp within 4 hours, but a pork chip thickness is limited to 1 15/16 which cooks in about 2hrs 30 mins at 140...and it is conceivable to have thicker chops.

3) Would like the option for thickness in mm

Love the app!

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The app is now very good as of the update last night which allow overriding the lower temps. Couple more things i would like:

Thanks. I'm glad you like it.

1) Would love to see a "pasteurization" option step. This could be a switch that would add a pasteurization time once the core temp is reached. Time would be based on final item temperature. I realize this might be a bit complicated to add for beef, chicken and fish since the times are difference, but starting with chicken would be great, since that's the one that we all pasteurize and the one that really NEEDS to be cooked to pasteurization. without that option i'm stuck having to remember to add it to the end of the timer and look up how long pasteurization is at each temp.

Great suggestion. I've been thinking this through and reading up on the references in anticipation of doing this. I want to make sure I fully understand things before I add this feature. Probably in 2.0.

2) there are some strange thickness limitations in some items. I understand the need to reach core temp within 4 hours, but a pork chip thickness is limited to 1 15/16 which cooks in about 2hrs 30 mins at 140...and it is conceivable to have thicker chops.

Before the next release we'll do a complete re-review of dimension and temperature limits and make sure they are reasonable. There is at least one other case I'm aware of for fish.

3) Would like the option for thickness in mm

I have good news for you. This is already available. Got to your iPad/iPhone Settings app (the gear icon on the main screen). It has a section for apps and there is an entry there for SousVide Dash. There are two settings you can change. One for temperature measurement in F or C and the other for dimensions in or mm. For devices sold in the US, the app should default to in/F and everywhere else in the world it should default to mm/C. But you can change either one of these settings no matter where you are. So if you want C and in, or F and mm, you can do that.

Love the app!

Thanks again. I'd appreciate a review or rating in the app store.

Chief Scientist / Amateur Cook

MadVal, Seattle, WA

Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code

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SV turkey: your thoughts on the dark meat:

Im 'processing' various turkeys as they are very reasonable now.

i do have 8 wild turkeys in my yard but they are not enthusiastic about plastic bags ...

ive done a lot of chicken SV (breast) so I have that covered.

but what has been your experience with the 'dark meat' legs and thighs

I like rare and tender.

Baldwin recommends :

medium: slow 160 F 24 hours

fast: 175 F 8 - 12 hours

Mu goal for these cuts is to use them for another dish.

has any one studied dark meat turkey SV?

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3) Would like the option for thickness in mm

I have good news for you. This is already available. Got to your iPad/iPhone Settings app (the gear icon on the main screen). It has a section for apps and there is an entry there for SousVide Dash. There are two settings you can change. One for temperature measurement in F or C and the other for dimensions in or mm. For devices sold in the US, the app should default to in/F and everywhere else in the world it should default to mm/C. But you can change either one of these settings no matter where you are. So if you want C and in, or F and mm, you can do that.

Ah, thanks! I never would have looked there!

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Its not roast turkey:

SV turkey breast @ 140 for 3 hours:

Ive boned out some turkeys and put the breast in various sizes in bags and the dark meat in others.

I just tried the SV breast done 140 for 3 hours:

it was massively tender, still pink in the middle and very very moist. i made the usual mashed potatoes, peas and gravy.

this turkey was outstanding. ( good for me: I have about 12 bags now in the refrig to go to the freezer)

its more of a turkey you might get in a french restaurant than for thanksgiving. but it would do with crispy stuffing etc. it does not have 'roasted' flavors.

this is more subtle and moist

it might be good with a light creamy mushroom sauce etc with something else crunchy on the plate.

this is a fine thing to try.

please however take all the tendons out: there is a big one on the smaller muscle that you grab with a snap or pliers and scrape out. any tendonish item use your boneing knife to get rid off: this is so tender that those little bits detract from the dish.

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