Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Guy MovingOn

Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment (Part 7)

Recommended Posts

As Pedro says, the key is insulation. Most water baths have very low wattage - 1000 to 1800 - which is about like a toaster. A typical home oven is 3500 to 7500 watts. So a water bath is quite weak.

Depending on the insulation of the pot/water container there will be some watts lost. This could be large or small, depends on the level of insulation. The more insulation, the more water you can put in your bath.

THe more water there is, the lower the temperature drop when you put food in which is good. Unless you put proportionately more food in! If the ratio of water to cold food you plunk in the bath is too extreme (i.e. too little water for the food) then you get a big temperature drop and it will take a while (perhaps too long) for the temperature to recover.

I find that 7 liters is about the smallest bath that makes sense, and frankly 20 liters is much better. But no matter what the size, don't jam it too full.

Heat loss and steady state energy consumption of sous vide cookers

Steady state heat consumption of a water bath can be approximated by

Steady state power [Watt] = cooling slope [°C/min] * water volume [liter ≈ kg] * 60 [min/h] * 1.163 [Wh/kg/°C]

1.163 Wh/kg/°C is the specific heat of water, i.e. the energy necessary to heat 1kg water by 1°C.

Another approximation is steady state power = Hs/(Hs+Cs) * Wn, where Hs = heating slope and Cs = cooling slope and Wn = nominal wattage.

Although these approximations do not account for the thermal capacity of the body of the cooker or water-bath, the calculated values reflect effective measured values quite well.

I collected the basic data of the same cooker with various insulations and of different cookers. Data of the Tiger have been contributed by blackp. Basic data of cookers were collected by pseudo-open-loop-tuning with the SVM 1500D PID-controller: when the proportional band is set to P=0, then instead of Integral and Derivative one can set hysteresis (I set HY=5°C) which is the range between switching power off and on (bang-bang-control). This allows automatic logging of heating slope and cooling slope.

To verify the calculated steady state powers, I tried to measure the power consumption directly with an energy cost monitor, but this did not work with the short energy pulses output by the SVM. So I plugged the FMM-heater to a Variac instead of the SVM, allowing to set the voltage to achieve stable temperature, and I measured voltage and power with two multimeters connected parallel and serial.

Here are a few examples from my experience:

gallery_65177_6868_26002.jpg

Cooling slopes were determined at 55°C water temperature and 22°C ambient temperature.

Measurements of steady state power confirmed the calculated values.

As Nathan says, insulation is the key.

Part of the heat loss is caused by water evaporation; with the uncovered FMM, evaporation was about 110ml/h which accounts for a loss of 70W (evaporation enthalpy of water is 0.627 kWh/kg). So covering the bath saves 70W by avoiding evaporation and another 30W by an insulating layer of air.

Insulating and covering the polycarbonate container of the FMM may reduce heat loss by a factor of 4 and approximate the insulation of a rice cooker. Using a well insulated beverage cooler instead of the polycarbonate container has the same effect.

Just for fun: cooking a suckling pig sous vide in a bath tub is quite energy consuming!

Who will contribute the data from a SVS and other SV-rigs?

Here is an example of pseudo-open-loop-tuning:

gallery_65177_6868_76293.jpg

Below is the FMM in the same configuration as above, run with continuous power 69V / 2.85A to yield 197W, which maintained 55°C very well.

gallery_65177_6868_90219.jpg

I thank blackp for contributing his data for the Tiger rice cooker and Douglas Baldwin for his suggestion to verify the calculated power values by direct power measurements.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Re: Rick Bayless's SV carnitas:

[H]ere's a brief rundown from the show.

  • Generously season a pork shoulder
  • Bag with a healthy amount of fresh rendered lard
  • Cook sous vide for 50 hours at 143f
  • Remove from bag, shred into pan
  • Cover with plastic wrap, layer another tray on top
  • Add weights, transfer to refrigerator
  • Once cooled/pressed, slice into cubes and brown
  • Serve with oaxacan black beans, roasted tomato sauce, guac, lime, pickled red onions, microarugula

After two days at 62C, I've just shredded and packed this into two loaf pans, which are bound with elastic bands and in the fridge. One note: there was a cup of liquid in the bag, which I strained and poured over the shredded meat in the pan before compressing it. More later with results.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Buy a propane torch, but use MAPP gas.

MAPP is similar to propane but it burns hotter, and has less of an issue with flavor transfer.

I prefer "self-lighting" or "trigger start" propane torches. They are about $50 - available at Amazon, or Home Depot.

Even better, in my view, are torches that give you a hose between the tank and the torch - they are much less tiring to hold. here is an example.

The non-self lighting torches are cheaper - less than $20.

Very late in getting back to this thread. Thanks, Nathan for these recommendations. :smile:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Without knowing what cuts of steak you are cooking and the time/temperature, it is very hard to offer any advice as to how to improve your results. If the interior seems 'flat', I can think of two possibilities: 1) poor quality meat or 2) inappropriate time/temperature for the cut being cooked.

Thanks and yes I was being vague although I have no recent specifics other than some recent drab but tender chicken breasts.

As a point of experimentation, can you give me a suggestion for a newly purchased skirt steak? A chewy childhood favorite,I would think this could be really delicious SV. Any suggestion for time/temp and marinade would be appreciated. :smile:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...

Heat loss and steady state energy consumption of sous vide cookers

...

... suggestion to verify the calculated power values by direct power measurements.

My N2006P PID has an undocumented feature.

Thinking that it looked VERY like the Auber SYL-2362A2, I downloaded its manual and compared.

The Auber has a 'manual' mode whereby you can 'dial in' a chosen output duty cycle. (Press 'SET' for 5 seconds.)

I tried this on my N2006P, and it did something slightly different. (I think the two units have different firmware, the passwords are different, even if the hardware, and much else does seem awfully similar.) The Auber is generally more feature-rich and thus versatile, potentially justifying its higher price.

What mine gave me on pressing and holding 'Set' was nevertheless very interesting. And not in its own manual.

Instead of showing measured and target temps, it then displays measured temp and the continually varying (auto-controlled) output duty cycle as %. It shows the PID output!

One facet of this is that it shows how steady (or not) the bath is. You can see how the controller is working -- and that was a massive help to me when trying to improve on the autotuned settings.

Anyway, at an indicated (Pt100) steady 56C (ambient about 22C) the PID tells me that it is on for 8% of the time (±0.2%).

This was controlling a nominally 1800 watt heating element.

So I was running about 144 watts. Add a very few for the controller itself and some inevitable losses in the SSR, and I'd confidently say that I was using about 150 watts for cooking.

This was a "27 litre" (think 27 US quarts) water bath (filled to the 'max' line), uninsulated except for a brilliantly well-fitting lid. Incidentally its a Lidl "Jam Maker - Fruit Preserver" -- basically a 'canning' waterbath or tea urn - an enamelled steel vertical cylinder with a 'concealed element' under the waterbath floor, and with a convenient drain tap and even a nice grid to keep bags and things off the heated floor.

Massively lower cost than a big rice cooker ...

The Lidl 'Jam Maker' may not be much use for making jam, but its a bargain sv heated waterbath!

Incidentally, my home digital Energy Monitor is comprehensively fooled by the 2 second cycle of the PID (the monitor gives a reading every 6 seconds and is clearly not expecting a rapidly varying demand!) So don't expect to get a 'direct measurement' from such devices ...

I'm going to have a go sometime with some insulation. I was thinking of repurposing a foam (camping) 'sleeping mat'.

However, since I'm relying on pure convection to stir the bath, I shall only insulate the lower 2/3 of the water depth.

That way, I should expect to still get cooling at the sides of the surface, giving a downdraught.

Certainly, if the insulation is effective, I'd expect to have to retune the PID. One reason for my procrastination!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went to a really good butcher and bought a whole lot of meat, including some brisket which was not expensive compared to the other cuts I bought. The brisket was visibly a fine piece of meat from which I trimmed all the excess fat.

Bottom line was when I cooked it (72 hours at 57C), the product was far superior to other briskets I have done sous vide.

I know I've been banging on about it a bit but the quality of the meat matters. Go for the cheaper cuts by all means, they are the most tasty, but make sure it comes from a quality animal. Otherwise we get the failures that have been reported in this forum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Without knowing what cuts of steak you are cooking and the time/temperature, it is very hard to offer any advice as to how to improve your results. If the interior seems 'flat', I can think of two possibilities: 1) poor quality meat or 2) inappropriate time/temperature for the cut being cooked.

Thanks and yes I was being vague although I have no recent specifics other than some recent drab but tender chicken breasts.

As a point of experimentation, can you give me a suggestion for a newly purchased skirt steak? A chewy childhood favorite,I would think this could be really delicious SV. Any suggestion for time/temp and marinade would be appreciated. :smile:

Enter 'skirt' in the Search Topic field near the bottom of the page. You will find specific skirt steak recommendations.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick question: do you find any need for resting sous vided steaks after resting? I did a trial today with a hanger steak (3 hours at 56C, glucose wash, hot skillet). It came out gloriously, although it lost quite a bit of juice when I sliced it. Not sure if a quick rest would help or be pointless.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shouldn't need to rest -- that is, allow the heat to distribute more evenly through the meat -- after you're done with SV, but if you blast the meat in a pan during browning and bring the exterior temp way above the interior temp....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that short ribs are the cheap cut that undergoes the most luscious transformation. They are juicy and beefy and are great if you have decent quality short ribs.

Well, e_monster, I'm putting this to the test! ;-)

I have about six pounds of pretty nice looking boneless beef short ribs in the bath at 132F, going to give them 48 hours, then chill and reheat for an hour to bring up to temp for torching and serving. That will free up the circulator to do a Keller dessert recipe from his PolyScience book.

As I understand it, I'll be long past the point of pasteurization at this point, so cook-chill-hold is totally ok, and it will really simplify my prep when guests are there.

I'm hoping to be posting my own "I just tried SV short ribs and was blown away" story next week!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...

As I understand it, I'll be long past the point of pasteurization at this point, so cook-chill-hold is totally ok, and it will really simplify my prep when guests are there.

...

Yes.

However, there is a "but".

Its wrong thinking to take 'pasteurisation' as being absolute.

Its an acceptable (massive) reduction of the nasties.

Not their elimination.

Hence i think its important to chill fast (ice and a minimum of water to contact the bags).

Then you could hold (at properly-cold-fridge-temp) for at least a couple of weeks ...

Reheating to your serving temperature ought also to be as quick as you can. So, from fridge straight into a preheated bath. And then you should have plenty latitude in service-holding time, once you are back up to temperature.

The initial wide 'business' interest in SV seems to have been exactly this simplification of service/assembly with reheating chilled pre-prepared portions -- hence the pejorative "boil-in-the-bag" associations.

Yes, I know the very beginning was with Foie Gras, but here I'm referring to the wider (trade rather than profession, if you will) take-up of the technique.


Edited by dougal (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wanted to report back on the final steps of Bayless's SV carnitas (recipe here). Here are the loaf pans:



The pork removed from the pan:



At this point, I got concerned that the pork wasn't sufficiently firm to survive being sautéed. Forging on, I sliced it into ~3/4" slabs:



Into a non-stick pan with plenty of very hot lard:



Carefully, carefully tried to turn them, but... uhh...:



OK, so it's not going to be featured in Modernist Cuisine:



However, it was absolutely fantastic. The meat was infused with the spices and the texture was perfect, with tender and crispy bits in good ratio. It was insanely rich. It's a good thing I sautéed only a few slices or else I'd have eaten the entire thing.



Of course, the big question here is: why did the pork fall apart in the pan? One culprit could be the liquid, but I'll sacrifice form for flavor without concern. I'm quite sure it's not a sautéing issue: they started to break down almost immediately, so even a very fast high heat sear wouldn't have worked.

I'm thinking it was lack of collagen. Here are Derek's images of Bayless's pork:

On 23 August 2010 - 11:42 PM, derekslager said:


Pressed:





That looks like a lot firmer bind than I had, and even if I had left out the liquid, there was no way that pork was going to gel like that. Next time, I'll try it with skin-on pork and see what happens.

Having said that, this is a great addition to my growing SV repertoire and a terrific way to prepare carnitas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On 04 September 2010 - 07:17 AM, Chris Amirault said:


Wanted to report back on the final steps of Bayless's SV carnitas (recipe here). Here are the loaf pans:

Carefully, carefully tried to turn them, but... uhh...:



OK, so it's not going to be featured in Modernist Cuisine:



However, it was absolutely fantastic. The meat was infused with the spices and the texture was perfect, with tender and crispy bits in good ratio. It was insanely rich. It's a good thing I sautéed only a few slices or else I'd have eaten the entire thing.

Of course, the big question here is: why did the pork fall apart in the pan? One culprit could be the liquid, but I'll sacrifice form for flavor without concern. I'm quite sure it's not a sautéing issue: they started to break down almost immediately, so even a very fast high heat sear wouldn't have worked.

I'm thinking it was lack of collagen. Here are Derek's images of Bayless's pork:

On 23 August 2010 - 11:42 PM, derekslager said:


Pressed:





That looks like a lot firmer bind than I had, and even if I had left out the liquid, there was no way that pork was going to gel like that. Next time, I'll try it with skin-on pork and see what happens.

Having said that, this is a great addition to my growing SV repertoire and a terrific way to prepare carnitas.




I think it is definitly lacking some more gelatin. Your idea of keeping the skin on next time is a good one. Also it looks like the shreds are too big. Try smaller shreds of pork. I hope to try this soon as well. The only similar meat I cooked and sliced dlike that was a shoulder of deer. It worked very well, so I guess deer shoulder had more than enough gelating on it's own.

Venison-Pommes Maxim-Berries2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are.those seared strawberries in your dish? What a clever accompaniment to game.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are.those seared strawberries in your dish? What a clever accompaniment to game.

I wish I could take all the credit for the charred strawberries with game idea. I actually got it from the Alinea Mosaic forum here. In the Alinea dish they serve them as a component in a squab dish. If you want to know more about my venison dish, I blogged about it here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try this again...anybody?

Hey guys,

When you cooked the duck skin on between silpats do you use any weight on top?

Whats the ratio for this glucose solution you speak of?

Thanks in advance!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry I don't know why I can't edit my post above but somehow I missed you guys answering the glucose question, thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rib eye cooked at 140 for 75 minutes then finished on the grill. Pork loin at 140 for 45 mintes. Both were awesome, pork was spot on.

4965757540_07208d8f49_m.jpg

4966661038_07f1ca1427_m.jpg

4966145401_96576f07d5_z.jpg

4966145319_5815765a0b_z.jpg


Edited by ScottyBoy (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Printing note for US residents: for proper printing of Pedro's "caliper chart," be sure to set the paper source as A4 and turn off page scaling. If you lack A4 paper, legal will do the trick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sous vide rigs may fail, so there should be an alarm when temperature deviates from the set-point.

Lately it happened to me that the FreshMealsMagic triggered the GFCI (ground fault circuit intterrupter) and bath temperature dropped from 49°C to about 48°C during 2h20' cooking. This did not cause me any problem, but if it happens during a 48h-cooking without being noticed, you have to discard your food. It may also happen that a sensor fails or shifts and bath temperature rises or drops.

As my SV-rig resides downstairs in the air-raid-shelter, I looked for a way to baby-sit my SV-rig without going downstairs every hour, and when ordering Nathan's book at Amazon, I also ordered a two-channel remote smoker thermometer Maverick ET-73 which arrived yesterday. It has a channel for the food temperature with a high-alarm and a channel for the oven temperature with high- and low-alarm; the latter can be used to sound an alarm whenever the bath temperature goes outside your set limits.

A known issue with the ET-73 is poor range, especially through walls. I had to place the receiver on the kitchen floor as near to the transmitter as possible to get a signal. So I hacked the receiver and did the Maverick ET-73 Range Modification From LilSmoker with a small modification shown in the pictures below, soldering the antenna wire to the rear side instead of the front side of the small PCB with the horseshoe shaped circuit board antenna, so the antenna wire does not have to be bent to exit the case. Now the range is sufficient to place the receiver anywhere in the kitchen and have a good signal. It's far from the 100 feet that Maverick claims, but an air-raid-shelter is a bit of a Faraday cage, so I am satisfied with the result. It is possible to make a similar modification on the transmitter, see http://www.instructables.com/id/Increasing-the-Range-of-a-Wireless-BBQ-Thermometer/, but in my case this was not necessary.

gallery_65177_6866_10351.jpg

0.7mm SS antenna wire soldered to the rear side of the small printed circuit board

gallery_65177_6866_102531.jpg

Small PCB replaced after soldering the antenna wire to its rear side

gallery_65177_6866_22617.jpg

Length of the antenna wire measured from the soldering point has to be exactly 6.5" / 16.5cm which is the quarter wavelength of 433MHz

gallery_65177_6866_12353.jpg

Small notch in case to accommodate antenna wire

gallery_65177_6866_15704.jpg

The end result.

As I was still not quite satisfied with the range, I did the antenna hack also on the transmitter:

gallery_65177_6866_49479.jpg

Preparing: remove insulation on antenna arc

gallery_65177_6866_43085.jpg

Bend wire (16.5cm length from soldering point) so it can be threaded around the antenna arc to improve mechanical stability

gallery_65177_6866_39730.jpg

Soldering wire to the antenna arc

gallery_65177_6866_21299.jpg

Receiver and transmitter hacked.

Range was a bit better, but after extending the antenna on the transmitter from 16.5cm (quarter-wave) to 66cm (full-wave, on recommendation of Robert Jueneman), it was even better, now connection seems to be stable across a ceiling of reinforced concrete.

Although the ET-73 has some drawbacks, it is a (the only?) way to baby-sit a SV-rig and sounding an alarm, should the temperature deviate too much.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had excellent results precooking chicken for frying SV

Cook thighs and drumsticks for 1 hour plus at 60 degrees C.

Dip in buttermilk and dredge in seasoned flour.

Deep fat fry at 177 degrees C. until golden brown.

Chicken is very moist and crispy. I have had excellent reviews each time I have served it.

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had excellent results precooking chicken for frying SV

Cook thighs and drumsticks for 1 hour plus at 60 degrees C.

Dip in buttermilk and dredge in seasoned flour.

Deep fat fry at 177 degrees C. until golden brown.

Chicken is very moist and crispy. I have had excellent reviews each time I have served it.

Phil

Has anyone tried this with Keller's Ad Hoc recipe? I like the idea of SVing the chicken first but it seems like with a recipe as precise as his that could lead to over cooking. Or do you bring the chicken to room temp or something beforehand?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your gauge is brilliant, Peter - thanks very much.

A laminated one would be nice - maybe I'll try sticking one in a vacuum bag. What cooking time would you suggest ... ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Prepared a rack of St. Louis ribs as follows:

Rubbed with this rub.

Cold smoked (80-90F?) for two hours with a combination of apple and hickory in the Bradley.

Bagged and cooked SV at 67C for 26 hours.

Removed from bag and doused with =Mark's outstanding SC barbecue sauce, a house staple.

Grilled over blistering coals for about 2 min per side.

Best. Ribs. Ever.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

  • Similar Content

    • By lindaj1
      Is there any recipe from the modernist universe or any other galaxy to make ketogenic (low carb) puff pastry and strudel type doughs?  Unusual ingredients OK.  There must be a way...
    • By haresfur
      I got to thinking after the disgusting job of separating globs of fat from sous vide short ribs and debating never doing them that way again. If the fat renders out in a braise, but not in the sous vide, what temperature would you need to turn the fat liquid to get rid of it? Is it below well-done or do you really have to cook the shit out of it? Is it just temperature or a time&temperature thing?
       
      Along those lines, what happens with marbled, tender cuts? where is the sweet spot between solid fat and something more palatable?
    • By Daily Gullet Staff
      By John Sconzo

      The Daily Gullet is proud to present this, the first in a multi-part, front-row report on the recent "Spain and the World Table" conference. Watch for subsequent installments in this topic.

      In his introduction of Ferran Adria, Thomas Keller -- perhaps the most celebrated American chef ever -- described four elements that go into making a great chef. The chef must be aware. Once aware of one’s culinary and other surroundings that chef can then be inspired, which leads to the ability to interpret those surroundings. But a great chef does not stop there. Instead, the great chef continues to evolve. Ferran Adria, perhaps more than any other chef who has ever lived, is the embodiment of those four elements.

      The moment that Ferran Adria strode towards Thomas Keller on the stage at the CIA/Greystone’s World of Flavors’ “Spain and the World Table” Conference was electric -- as if a giant Van de Graf generator had been turned on. The feeling didn’t subside when Adria took the stage from Keller; it only became more pronounced as the packed crowd rose to its feet, raining applause, admiration and love on the Spanish master. Adria accepted the response with aplomb, and gave it right back to the audience -- and to his fellow Spanish cocineros, who were standing off to the side. He brought each one up to join him on the stage for a rousing thank-you to the conference organizers, sponsors and participants. Once this emotional release subsided, Adria got down to what everyone had been waiting for -- his discussion and demonstration.

      Ferran Adria, with eyes sparkling like the finest cava, began speaking Spanish in a voice as gravelly as the beaches of the Costa Brava, while Conference Chairman Jose Andres translated. The crowd, hushed and straining for every word, moved forward in their seats as Adria explained El Bulli and himself, with a lesson in recent culinary history thrown in. Ferran explained that El Bulli is not a business. While offshoots of El Bulli are operated on a for-profit basis, the restaurant runs without profit as a primary motivation. For example, he said, the greatest difficulty they have is distributing reservations. Given the extraordinary demand and the severely limited supply, he explained that they could simply raise the price of a meal to the point where the supply and demand met. Indeed, the price of a meal at El Bulli is in itself quite reasonable given the stature of the restaurant and well within means of most motivated diners should they be able to get there, and this is how Adria prefers it. He stated that he was not interested in cooking solely for those with the most money. He prefers to work for people with a true interest in exploring the limits of cooking with him. To this end he showed a short film depicting “A Day in the Life . . .” of El Bulli set to the Beatles’ song of the same name. The film showed a couple’s response to the experience.

      Ferran’s voyage into creativity began with a visit to Jacques Maxima at Le Chanticleer Restaurant in Nice, France. He learned from Maxima that to be creative is not to copy. This idea changed his entire approach to cooking -- from making classic cuisine to making his own. Aware of elaborate books of French cuisine, Adria resolved to catalogue his work, the results of which are the richly detailed El Bulli books, published by period. These books, as wonderful as they are, are huge and extremely expensive. During his presentation, Adria announced -- and demonstrated -- that the individual dishes photographed and described in a chronology within each book are all now available online at elbulli.com.

      He finished the philosophical discussion by talking about the general style of haute cuisine that he and others are engaged in. While others have coined the term “molecular gastronomy” to highlight the scientific component of the creativity involved, Adria rejected it, saying that all cooking is molecular: most of his techniques are in fact rather simple and don’t employ radical new technology. Most of the technology that they do use has been around for some time; they have simply adapted it to their own purposes. Nevertheless, he applauds contributions to gastronomy from Harold McGee and other food scientists, and welcomes their collaboration in the kitchen. He has yet to find a term that describes the movement: as of now, he feels that there really is no good name for this style of cooking.

      More than any other single thing, Ferran Adria is known for the use of “foams” in cooking. While he is proud of his achievements with foams, he stressed that while appropriate in some circumstances, the real utility of foams is limited. He bemoans their ubiquity -- and wishes to not be blamed for others’ poor deployment of the concept. In the course of describing this and other techniques, Adria made a point of stating that using them should not be inferred as copying. Techniques and concepts are to be used and shared. He invited everyone to learn and harness whatever they found interesting, and to employ it in to their own pursuits.

      Another set of techniques discussed and demonstrated by the master and his assistant, Rafa Morales from Hacienda Benazuza, included three types of spherification. These included the use of calcium chloride (CaCl) and sodium alginate as well as the converse, and exploration of a new agent, gluconodeltalactone. The original combinations of alginate into CaCl for “caviar” production, and CaCl into alginate for larger “spheres” have chemistry-related limits as to what can be sphericized. In private correspondence, Harold McGee explained to me that Adria described encapsulating a mussel in its own juice. While this would make the dish technically an aspic, unlike conventional aspics it remains a liquid. Adria said that though gluconodeltalactone is very new, and they are just beginning to get a handle on it, he is very excited by it. He also demonstrated a machine for spherification on a larger scale than they had originally been able to do, as well as liquid nitrogen and freeze-drying (lyophilization) techniques. At the conclusion of his demonstration -- and thus the Conference -- the audience once again awarded him a standing ovation.

      While Adria’s appearance was the culmination of the conference, the energy it produced was not just because of his stature in the world of gastronomy -- it was also due to the excitement generated by the conference that preceded it. If there had previously been any doubt, Thomas Keller’s welcome of Adria was a clarion: Spanish cuisine has landed on North American shores and is finding a niche in the North American psyche. Spanish cuisine -- in its multifaceted, delicious entirety -- lives here, too.

      + + + + +

      John M. Sconzo, M.D., aka docsconz, is an anesthesiologist practicing in upstate New York. He grew up in Brooklyn in an Italian-American home, in which food was an important component of family life. It still is. His passions include good food, wine and travel. John's gastronomic interests in upstate northeastern New York involve finding top-notch local producers of ingredients and those who use them well. A dedicated amateur, John has no plans to ditch his current career for one in the food industry. Host, New York.
    • By docsconz
      About Jose Andres
       
      Throughout his career, Jose’s vision and imaginative creations have drawn the praise of the public, the press and his peers. José has received awards and recognition from Food Arts, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Saveur, the James Beard Foundation, Wine Spectator, and Wine Advocate. In addition, José has been featured in leading food magazines such as Gourmet as well as the New York Times, the Washington Post, Good Morning America, Fox Sunday Morning News with Chris Wallace, the Food Network, and USA Today.
       
      Widely acknowledged as the premiere Spanish chef cooking in America, José is a developer and Conference Chairman for the upcoming Worlds of Flavor Conference on Spain and the World Table at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, November 2 – 5, 2006.
       
      In 1993, Jose moved to Washington, DC, to head the kitchen at Jaleo. From there, Jose took on executive chef responsibilities at neighboring Café Atlantico and later Zaytinya. In July of 2003, Jose embarked on his most adventurous project to date with the opening of the minibar by jose andres at Cafe Atlantico. A six-seat restaurant within a restaurant, minibar by jose andres continues to attract international attention with its innovative tasting menu. In the fall of 2004, Jose opened a third Jaleo and Oyamel, an authentic Mexican small plates restaurant and launched the THINKfoodTANK, an institution devoted to the research and development of ideas about food, all with a view toward their practical applications in the kitchen.
       
      Every week, millions of Spaniards invite Jose into their home where he is the host and producer of “Vamos a cocinar”, a food program on Television Española (TVE), Spanish national television. The program airs in the United States and Latin America on TVE Internacional.
       
      Jose released his first cookbook this year, first published in English, Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America (published in the United States by Clarkson Potter) and shortly after in Spanish, Los fogones de José Andrés (published by Planeta). The book is an homage to Spanish cooking and to tapas, one of Spain's gifts to the world of good cooking.
       
      Jose Andres is passionate, intelligent, dedicated, witty and a fan of FC Barcelona.
       
      Jose has been a member of the eGullet Society since 2004.
       
      More on Jose Andres in the eG Forums:
      Cooking with "Tapas" by Jose Andres
      Vamos a Cocinar - cooking show with Jose Andres
      Jaleo
      José Andrés' Minibar
      Zaytinya
      Oyamel Cocina Mexicana, Crystal City
      Cafe Atlantico
       
      Jose Andres recipes from Tapas in RecipeGullet:
      Potatoes Rioja-Style with Chorizo (Patatas a la Riojana)
      Moorish-Style Chickpea and Spinach Stew
      Squid with Caramelized Onions
    • By gibbs
      With Modernist Cuisine I waited a couple of years and ended up with a copy from the 6th printing run the advantage of this was that all errors picked up in the erratta had been corrected in the print copy.  I am looking to get modernist bread soon and wondered if someone had purchased it recently to check or if someone knew of hand if they have printed any additional corrected runs 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×