Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

adey73

Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment (Part 3)

Recommended Posts

Nathan, I am curious - what kind of equipment do use in your SV set-up?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, my waterbath arrived last week, and I just got a consumer-level vacuum sealer, so I'm finally ready to go. :smile:

I'm looking for advice re: prawns and scallops. I've looked upthread, and noted that Nathan cooks prawns to 45C / 113F -- I'm assuming the same would work for scallops? And, how long should they cook for after reaching core temp? I know with temps this low, it shouldn't be more than "a few hours" but that still leaves a lot of lee-way.

Has anyone tried cooking shrimp or scallops at a higher temp for longer?

Thanks! Any input would be valued.

jk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

JK,

I have not given scallops a try yet, but as far as shrimp/lobster I would suggest 46-47C/115-117F for a 15-20 minutes. 45C was a bit rare, and I had to finish it in a stove. "Few hours" for shellfish is a certain overkill - there is simply not enough connective tissue to justify that kind of cooking time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
["Few hours" for shellfish is a certain overkill - there is simply not enough connective tissue to justify that kind of cooking time.

When cooking below 130F, you basically need to keep the cooking time as short as is necessary to get the food up to temp. It can be held a little bit longer (as long as you keep it within the safe limits for food in the hot zone) but you don't want long cook times. (All items that cook for a long time are done so at temps that are outside of the danger zone).

A few hours at under 120F is dangerous rather than overkill. At 113F to 130 F (especially under 120F), your bath is an incubator -- the pathogens will multiply much faster at these temps than at room temp.

So, take a look at Nathan M's tables up-thread and base your cooking times on the time to get the food up to temp.

Also, find Nathan's posts where he discusses the safe time that food can be in the 'hot zone'. He lays out valuable little understood information very well. [Maybe a FAQ or thread that contains just that information could be started? Everyone should really have that info on hand.]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My own experience cooking shrimp to 113F was less than great. I ended up tossing them into a hot skillet with butter to give them a quick sear and firm up the texture. Others with more sophisticated tastes no doubt disagree.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks -- I was mostly interested in whether anything interesting would happen re: texture, etc., with cooking times longer than necessary to get to core-temp with shellfish (I have Nathan's excellent tables printed out and next to my waterbath for easy reference -- thanks for all the hard work, Nathan!). I'm hearing that the answer is a) no, not really, and b) it wouldn't be worth the risk, even if it was.

I searched for but couldn't find Nathan's posts re: safe time limits for the so-called danger-zone. My "a couple of hours" comment was based on Nathan's up-thread comments that cooking times of greater than a few hours for fish and shellfish at 113 or so would be best avoided, because of the greater risk of bacterial growth / spoilage more generally. But if nothing interesting is going to happen to most shellfish after the product gets to core temp, then there isn't any need to push it at all, I think.

After I get everything set up and checked, I'll post reports of my experiments... I've got some frozen "truffle juice" that I'm excited about using...

Thanks again to everyone for their hard work and willingness to share!

jk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I was looking for the "tables" and found some about #180. Except they were not formatted properly so I could not make heads or tails of them...I looked at them a few months ago and they were easy to read, but I unfortunatly did not print them out..any ideas would be appreciated....

Bud

The forum isn't rendering the HTML, probably because of security concerns with script injection or something similar. The easiest option is to copy the HTML text and use "paste special" in Microsoft Excel (other spreadsheet programs probably have similar features). If you don't have such a program, just save it to a file with an HTML extension (via notepad or similar) and open it with your favorite web browser.

I'll try to post the meat table here in a monospaced font, but I'm not confident it will render perfectly:

Bath C  Bath F  mm      inch    Cook time       Rest time       Core C  Core F  Early -1C       Late +1C 
55      131     5       0.2     0:01:41         0:00:02         54.4    129.9   0:00:23         ∞
56      132.8   5       0.2     0:01:19         0:00:03         54.3    129.7   0:00:11         0:00:20
60      140     5       0.2     0:00:53         0:00:03         53.8    128.9   0:00:03         0:00:04
65      149     5       0.2     0:00:41         0:00:03         53.1    127.7   0:00:02         0:00:01
55      131     10      0.39    0:06:39         0:00:09         54.4    129.9   0:01:25         ∞
56      132.8   10      0.39    0:05:16         0:00:10         54.3    129.7   0:00:41         0:01:24
60      140     10      0.39    0:03:32         0:00:13         53.9    129     0:00:15         0:00:16
65      149     10      0.39    0:02:43         0:00:14         53.1    127.7   0:00:08         0:00:08
55      131     15      0.59    0:14:58         0:00:21         54.4    129.9   0:03:11         ∞
56      132.8   15      0.59    0:11:50         0:00:23         54.3    129.7   0:01:33         0:03:10
60      140     15      0.59    0:07:58         0:00:28         53.9    129     0:00:33         0:00:38
65      149     15      0.59    0:06:06         0:00:31         53.1    127.7   0:00:18         0:00:19
55      131     20      0.79    0:26:57         0:00:38         54.4    129.9   0:06:00         ∞
56      132.8   20      0.79    0:21:02         0:00:38         54.3    129.7   0:02:45         0:06:00
60      140     20      0.79    0:14:10         0:00:50         53.9    129     0:00:58         0:01:09
65      149     20      0.79    0:10:51         0:00:57         53.1    127.7   0:00:32         0:00:34
55      131     25      0.98    0:41:29         0:00:56         54.4    129.9   0:08:48         ∞
56      132.8   25      0.98    0:32:52         0:01:02         54.3    129.7   0:04:17         0:08:46
60      140     25      0.98    0:22:08         0:01:18         53.9    129     0:01:31         0:01:48
65      149     25      0.98    0:16:57         0:01:27         53.1    127.7   0:00:50         0:00:54
55      131     30      1.18    1:00:51         1:00:50         54.4    130     0:12:48         ∞
56      132.8   30      1.18    0:48:17         0:48:16         54.4    130     0:07:13         0:12:38
60      140     30      1.18    0:31:40         0:01:50         53.8    128.9   0:02:00         0:02:45
65      149     30      1.18    0:24:25         0:02:09         53.1    127.7   0:01:11         0:01:17
55      131     35      1.38    1:19:33         0:01:54         54.4    129.9   0:15:15         ∞
56      132.8   35      1.38    1:04:20         0:02:03         54.4    129.9   0:07:34         0:15:30
60      140     35      1.38    0:42:57         0:02:32         53.8    128.8   0:02:54         0:05:15
65      149     35      1.38    0:33:11         0:02:51         53.1    127.7   0:01:36         0:01:45
55      131     40      1.57    1:41:38         0:02:26         54.4    129.9   0:20:31         ∞
56      132.8   40      1.57    1:21:30         0:02:46         54.3    129.7   0:10:06         0:20:17
60      140     40      1.57    0:57:59         0:57:58         54.4    130     0:03:36         0:04:16
65      149     40      1.57    0:45:46         0:45:45         54.4    130     0:04:41         0:02:11
55      131     45      1.77    2:05:05         0:03:14         54.4    129.9   0:24:54         ∞
56      132.8   45      1.77    1:40:39         0:03:34         54.3    129.7   0:12:14         0:26:28
60      140     45      1.77    1:09:12         0:04:13         53.8    128.8   0:04:28         0:05:18
65      149     45      1.77    0:57:18         0:57:17         54.4    130     0:02:28         0:02:40
55      131     50      1.97    2:31:22         0:04:03         54.4    129.9   0:31:20         ∞
56      132.8   50      1.97    2:00:35         0:04:23         54.3    129.7   0:14:26         0:31:18
60      140     50      1.97    1:23:29         0:05:22         53.8    128.8   0:05:41         0:06:15
65      149     50      1.97    1:05:16         0:06:11         53      127.3   0:00:58         0:03:14
55      131     55      2.17    2:56:40         0:05:05         54.4    129.9   0:36:18         ∞
56      132.8   55      2.17    2:21:01         0:05:25         54.3    129.7   0:18:05         0:36:17
60      140     55      2.17    1:37:39         0:06:35         53.7    128.6   0:06:02         0:07:09
65      149     55      2.17    1:16:48         0:07:35         52.8    127.1   0:03:24         0:03:42
55      131     60      2.36    3:22:16         0:06:17         54.4    129.9   0:41:21         ∞
56      132.8   60      2.36    2:41:38         0:06:47         54.3    129.7   0:20:33         0:41:21
60      140     60      2.36    1:52:26         0:08:07         53.7    128.6   0:06:50         0:08:06
65      149     60      2.36    1:28:24         0:09:27         52.7    126.8   0:03:49         0:04:37
55      131     65      2.56    3:48:32         0:07:39         54.4    129.9   0:47:04         ∞
56      132.8   65      2.56    3:02:15         0:08:09         54.3    129.7   0:23:02         0:46:26
60      140     65      2.56    2:06:32         0:09:49         53.6    128.4   0:07:34         0:09:42
65      149     65      2.56    1:40:10         0:11:18         52.6    126.7   0:04:28         0:04:53
55      131     70      2.76    4:14:54         0:09:11         54.4    130     0:53:04         ∞
56      132.8   70      2.76    3:22:44         0:09:41         54.3    129.7   0:25:31         0:53:03
60      140     70      2.76    2:21:04         0:11:41         53.6    128.5   0:09:00         0:10:43
65      149     70      2.76    1:51:14         0:13:40         52.4    126.4   0:04:37         0:05:35
55      131     75      2.95    4:41:42         4:41:41         54.4    130     0:59:53         ∞
56      132.8   75      2.95    3:42:51         0:11:33         54.3    129.7   0:27:57         0:59:28
60      140     75      2.95    2:34:35         0:13:53         53.5    128.3   0:09:03         0:11:37
65      149     75      2.95    2:02:14         0:16:18         52.3    126.1   0:05:00         0:06:04
55      131     80      3.15    5:06:33         5:06:32         54.4    130     1:05:06         ∞
56      132.8   80      3.15    4:02:31         0:13:35         54.3    129.7   0:30:22         1:05:02
60      140     80      3.15    2:48:27         0:16:25         53.5    128.3   0:10:34         0:11:41
65      149     80      3.15    2:12:51         0:19:18         52.2    125.9   0:05:56         0:06:31
55      131     90      3.54    5:53:50         5:53:49         54.4    130     1:11:56         ∞
56      132.8   90      3.54    4:43:10         0:18:29         54.4    129.9   0:38:03         1:11:54
60      140     90      3.54    3:13:59         0:22:08         53.4    128.2   0:12:05         0:14:19
65      149     90      3.54    2:32:05         0:26:09         51.8    125.3   0:06:39         0:07:18
55      131     100     3.94    6:37:46         6:37:45         54.4    130     1:19:06         ∞
56      132.8   100     3.94    5:20:05         0:24:13         54.4    129.9   0:41:31         1:19:03
60      140     100     3.94    3:36:12         0:28:50         53.2    127.8   0:13:19         0:17:02
65      149     100     3.94    2:50:01         0:33:10         51.6    124.8   0:08:03         0:08:03
55      131     150     5.91    9:23:30         9:23:29         54.4    130     1:49:35         ∞
56      132.8   150     5.91    7:35:58         7:35:57         54.4    130     1:01:10         1:48:09
60      140     150     5.91    5:02:25         0:52:34         53      127.4   0:19:42         0:25:11
65      149     150     5.91    3:53:28         0:58:03         50.5    122.9   0:10:43         0:12:58

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That seemed to work well enough, here are the fish tables in the same format.

Bath C  Bath F  mm      inch    Cook time       Rest time       Core C  Core F  Early -1C       Late +1C 
46      114.8   5       0.2     0:01:23         0:00:03         44.9    112.8   0:00:15         ∞
47      116.6   5       0.2     0:01:08         0:00:03         44.8    112.6   0:00:09         0:00:15
50      122     5       0.2     0:00:50         0:00:03         44.5    112     0:00:04         0:00:04
46      114.8   10      0.39    0:05:31         0:00:10         44.9    112.8   0:00:58         ∞
47      116.6   10      0.39    0:04:36         0:00:11         44.8    112.7   0:00:36         0:00:57
50      122     10      0.39    0:03:21         0:00:13         44.5    112     0:00:17         0:00:19
46      114.8   15      0.59    0:12:25         0:00:24         44.9    112.8   0:02:09         ∞
47      116.6   15      0.59    0:10:20         0:00:26         44.8    112.7   0:01:22         0:02:08
50      122     15      0.59    0:07:32         0:00:29         44.5    112     0:00:38         0:00:45
46      114.8   20      0.79    0:22:04         0:00:43         44.9    112.8   0:03:50         ∞
47      116.6   20      0.79    0:18:22         0:00:43         44.8    112.7   0:02:26         0:03:49
50      122     20      0.79    0:13:23         0:00:51         44.5    112     0:01:07         0:01:21
46      114.8   25      0.98    0:34:27         0:01:04         44.9    112.8   0:05:58         ∞
47      116.6   25      0.98    0:28:42         0:01:10         44.8    112.7   0:03:47         0:05:57
50      122     25      0.98    0:20:54         0:01:23         44.5    112     0:01:44         0:02:00
46      114.8   30      1.18    0:50:37         0:50:36         45      113     0:09:42         ∞
47      116.6   30      1.18    0:41:13         0:01:37         44.8    112.7   0:05:24         0:09:41
50      122     30      1.18    0:30:05         0:02:04         44.5    112     0:02:30         0:03:02
46      114.8   35      1.38    1:06:30         0:02:07         44.9    112.8   0:09:55         ∞
47      116.6   35      1.38    0:56:59         0:56:58         45      113     0:06:51         0:09:41
50      122     35      1.38    0:40:50         0:02:45         44.5    112     0:03:22         0:05:34
46      114.8   40      1.57    1:25:15         0:02:48         44.9    112.8   0:14:05         ∞
47      116.6   40      1.57    1:11:40         0:02:58         44.8    112.7   0:07:22         0:14:03
50      122     40      1.57    0:55:09         0:55:08         45      113     0:03:59         0:04:50
46      114.8   45      1.77    1:45:11         0:03:36         44.9    112.8   0:17:03         ∞
47      116.6   45      1.77    1:28:44         0:03:56         44.8    112.7   0:11:01         0:17:02
50      122     45      1.77    1:05:35         0:04:35         44.4    111.9   0:01:42         0:05:53
46      114.8   50      1.97    2:05:58         0:04:34         44.9    112.8   0:20:08         ∞
47      116.6   50      1.97    1:46:32         0:05:04         44.8    112.7   0:12:59         0:20:06
50      122     50      1.97    1:19:14         0:05:54         44.4    111.9   0:05:44         0:06:57
46      114.8   55      2.17    2:27:13         0:05:46         44.9    112.8   0:23:17         ∞
47      116.6   55      2.17    2:04:45         0:06:16         44.8    112.7   0:14:59         0:24:16
50      122     55      2.17    1:32:47         0:07:16         44.3    111.7   0:06:34         0:08:29
46      114.8   60      2.36    2:48:44         0:07:09         44.9    112.8   0:26:30         ∞
47      116.6   60      2.36    2:23:10         0:07:39         44.8    112.7   0:18:21         0:28:27
50      122     60      2.36    1:46:55         0:08:58         44.3    111.7   0:07:55         0:09:36
46      114.8   65      2.56    3:12:27         0:08:41         44.9    112.9   0:31:56         ∞
47      116.6   65      2.56    2:41:33         0:09:21         44.8    112.7   0:20:32         0:31:54
50      122     65      2.56    2:01:02         0:11:00         44.3    111.7   0:08:50         0:10:44

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Let me throw this one in the proverbial "simmering" pot:

How many people prefer the idea of cooking at the core/final temp, thus eliminating the risk of overcooking, vs. the higher SV temps, and thus shorter cooking times.

I am a big proponent of the cooking temp=core temp approach, just because of the ideal core temp results. Any input, anyone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am with you on the cooking temp=core temp approach. It's the only method that I have ever used. I have not had undesirable results yet. OK, besides vegetables. Not overcooking the protein has to be the biggest reason that I started dabbling in SV.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Same here. Cooking at target temp also avoids the need to recalibrate if starting temperature is different from that used by Nathan and the possibility of overcooking portions of cuts that are of varying thickness (e.g., chicken breasts).

SV'd some beef chuck eye steaks tonight, browned and cooked with wine, tomato paste and herbs for 7.5 hours @ 131F. Powerful good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Same here. Cooking at target temp also avoids the need to recalibrate if starting temperature is different from that used by Nathan and the possibility of overcooking portions of cuts that are of varying thickness (e.g., chicken breasts).

SV'd some beef chuck eye steaks tonight, browned and cooked with wine, tomato paste and herbs for 7.5 hours @ 131F. Powerful good.

Rob,

did you have wine in your SV bag, or did you use it just during the searing process?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would you consider sharing your smoked bacon stock recipe?

Here's mine that I think works pretty well...

1 lb Applewood smoked Bacon

2 lb chicken wings or backs

3 Liters of water

1 Onion

1 Carrot

3 thyme sprigs

10 black peppercorns

2 cloves

1 clove garlic

1 star anise

1 tsp coriander

½ cinnamon stick

Brown the bacon and then sweat the vegetables and spices in the fat for a bit, then add the chicken and water. I would estimate probably 2 hours of simmering but I'm not 100% sure because I've been using Heston Blumenthal's pressure cooker method for stock lately. If you have a pressure cooker, let it go for 30 minutes, take it off and let it sit until the pressure goes down. After straining and defatting you can either use it or clarify it, depending on what you're using it for.

I add bay leaves and leeks.. But, thats pretty much my recipe.. I also use a 6 pound piece of double smoked bacon and no necks.. I then press the bacon, peel it, and then cover in a dry rub for another dish.. But that stock I then cook down and save..


Edited by Daniel (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rob, did you have wine in your SV bag, or did you use it just during the searing process?

The wine was frozen and placed in the SV bag.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was meat texture any different from what it would be without wine? I've been hesitant to put wine in SV bags becuase of some feedback form "up the thread". Sounds like you are pretty satisfied with your recent results, so I may give it a try.

Global question: does wine/alcohol belong in SV bags?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Texture was fine, like grilled rib eye--tender but not at all mushy. I'd never cooked this particular cut before, and I was very happy with the result.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did have a problem with mushy meat when I had wine in the bag. This was a couple of years ago and one of my earliest ventures into sous-vide. We thought the alcohol might have denatured the protein. Perhaps I used too much but I have not used wine in the bag since then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can always boil off the alcohol first. The you should mostly have acids and flavours left.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thomas Keller suggests as much in TFLC, specifically suggesting that raw alcohol can "cook" (in effect) the exterior of the meat, preventing flavors from being fully absorbed. This advice was specific to marination (12+ hours sans heat), but I think it would also apply here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nathan, I am curious - what kind of equipment do use in your SV set-up?

I have a lot of SV equipment! Many water baths - both immersion circulators and integral baths. I also use Rational combi-ovens to use low temperature steam for SV. I have a couple vacuum packers, but my current favorite is Henkelman (a Dutch company that is not distributed very much in the US).

I recently got one of the Auber Instruments units to test, and it seems very useful for an inexpensive approach to SV.

I also have a couple smokers and a lot of other kitchen equipment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought I'd share our current favorite way of preparing Tilapia:

- buy the individually vacuum packed frozen fillets from the local grocery or Costco

- put directly from the freezer into 118deg water for 20min (or longer, I've left it in there for up to 40min with little difference in texture)

- season with salt & pepper, dredge in flour -> egg -> Penko

- pan fry in HOT oil till the Penko "looks right"

serve with whatever works for you.

This really shows off the power of sous-vide for me, we have cooked these at least 5 times and the results are exactly the same each and every time (moist flaky fish, crisp breading). No worries about undercooked thick parts, or overcooked thin parts.

we have a large rice cooker and a PID controller (bought it before Auber released their pre-built unit)


Edited by henri (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Something I've found (and I must admit I stole the idea from Heston Blumenthal) is replacing some of the salt I use to season my meat with smoked salt before sealing. I've done this with pork shoulder that I turned into carnitas and steak. While it doesn't completely substitute for the smoke flavor real smoke imparts, it does do a pretty good job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you make the smoked salt yourself (if so, could you share your recipe/method) or purchase it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My trusty FoodSaver seems to be dying after several years of service and I will need to replace it in the not-too-distant future. I am having trouble deciding which model to getl

I have a question for anyone that has experience with both those FoodSavers with the PulseVac option vs. those with the extended seal time option. Costco has one with the PulseVac option for around $100. Tuesday Morning has an older model that has no PulseVac option but has an 'extended sealling time' button.

Any thoughts of the relative merits of these options -- especially vis-a-vis packing food for sous vide?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd personally buy the one at Costco. Best warantee you will ever find.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

  • Similar Content

    • By lindaj1
      Is there any recipe from the modernist universe or any other galaxy to make ketogenic (low carb) puff pastry and strudel type doughs?  Unusual ingredients OK.  There must be a way...
    • By haresfur
      I got to thinking after the disgusting job of separating globs of fat from sous vide short ribs and debating never doing them that way again. If the fat renders out in a braise, but not in the sous vide, what temperature would you need to turn the fat liquid to get rid of it? Is it below well-done or do you really have to cook the shit out of it? Is it just temperature or a time&temperature thing?
       
      Along those lines, what happens with marbled, tender cuts? where is the sweet spot between solid fat and something more palatable?
    • By Daily Gullet Staff
      By John Sconzo

      The Daily Gullet is proud to present this, the first in a multi-part, front-row report on the recent "Spain and the World Table" conference. Watch for subsequent installments in this topic.

      In his introduction of Ferran Adria, Thomas Keller -- perhaps the most celebrated American chef ever -- described four elements that go into making a great chef. The chef must be aware. Once aware of one’s culinary and other surroundings that chef can then be inspired, which leads to the ability to interpret those surroundings. But a great chef does not stop there. Instead, the great chef continues to evolve. Ferran Adria, perhaps more than any other chef who has ever lived, is the embodiment of those four elements.

      The moment that Ferran Adria strode towards Thomas Keller on the stage at the CIA/Greystone’s World of Flavors’ “Spain and the World Table” Conference was electric -- as if a giant Van de Graf generator had been turned on. The feeling didn’t subside when Adria took the stage from Keller; it only became more pronounced as the packed crowd rose to its feet, raining applause, admiration and love on the Spanish master. Adria accepted the response with aplomb, and gave it right back to the audience -- and to his fellow Spanish cocineros, who were standing off to the side. He brought each one up to join him on the stage for a rousing thank-you to the conference organizers, sponsors and participants. Once this emotional release subsided, Adria got down to what everyone had been waiting for -- his discussion and demonstration.

      Ferran Adria, with eyes sparkling like the finest cava, began speaking Spanish in a voice as gravelly as the beaches of the Costa Brava, while Conference Chairman Jose Andres translated. The crowd, hushed and straining for every word, moved forward in their seats as Adria explained El Bulli and himself, with a lesson in recent culinary history thrown in. Ferran explained that El Bulli is not a business. While offshoots of El Bulli are operated on a for-profit basis, the restaurant runs without profit as a primary motivation. For example, he said, the greatest difficulty they have is distributing reservations. Given the extraordinary demand and the severely limited supply, he explained that they could simply raise the price of a meal to the point where the supply and demand met. Indeed, the price of a meal at El Bulli is in itself quite reasonable given the stature of the restaurant and well within means of most motivated diners should they be able to get there, and this is how Adria prefers it. He stated that he was not interested in cooking solely for those with the most money. He prefers to work for people with a true interest in exploring the limits of cooking with him. To this end he showed a short film depicting “A Day in the Life . . .” of El Bulli set to the Beatles’ song of the same name. The film showed a couple’s response to the experience.

      Ferran’s voyage into creativity began with a visit to Jacques Maxima at Le Chanticleer Restaurant in Nice, France. He learned from Maxima that to be creative is not to copy. This idea changed his entire approach to cooking -- from making classic cuisine to making his own. Aware of elaborate books of French cuisine, Adria resolved to catalogue his work, the results of which are the richly detailed El Bulli books, published by period. These books, as wonderful as they are, are huge and extremely expensive. During his presentation, Adria announced -- and demonstrated -- that the individual dishes photographed and described in a chronology within each book are all now available online at elbulli.com.

      He finished the philosophical discussion by talking about the general style of haute cuisine that he and others are engaged in. While others have coined the term “molecular gastronomy” to highlight the scientific component of the creativity involved, Adria rejected it, saying that all cooking is molecular: most of his techniques are in fact rather simple and don’t employ radical new technology. Most of the technology that they do use has been around for some time; they have simply adapted it to their own purposes. Nevertheless, he applauds contributions to gastronomy from Harold McGee and other food scientists, and welcomes their collaboration in the kitchen. He has yet to find a term that describes the movement: as of now, he feels that there really is no good name for this style of cooking.

      More than any other single thing, Ferran Adria is known for the use of “foams” in cooking. While he is proud of his achievements with foams, he stressed that while appropriate in some circumstances, the real utility of foams is limited. He bemoans their ubiquity -- and wishes to not be blamed for others’ poor deployment of the concept. In the course of describing this and other techniques, Adria made a point of stating that using them should not be inferred as copying. Techniques and concepts are to be used and shared. He invited everyone to learn and harness whatever they found interesting, and to employ it in to their own pursuits.

      Another set of techniques discussed and demonstrated by the master and his assistant, Rafa Morales from Hacienda Benazuza, included three types of spherification. These included the use of calcium chloride (CaCl) and sodium alginate as well as the converse, and exploration of a new agent, gluconodeltalactone. The original combinations of alginate into CaCl for “caviar” production, and CaCl into alginate for larger “spheres” have chemistry-related limits as to what can be sphericized. In private correspondence, Harold McGee explained to me that Adria described encapsulating a mussel in its own juice. While this would make the dish technically an aspic, unlike conventional aspics it remains a liquid. Adria said that though gluconodeltalactone is very new, and they are just beginning to get a handle on it, he is very excited by it. He also demonstrated a machine for spherification on a larger scale than they had originally been able to do, as well as liquid nitrogen and freeze-drying (lyophilization) techniques. At the conclusion of his demonstration -- and thus the Conference -- the audience once again awarded him a standing ovation.

      While Adria’s appearance was the culmination of the conference, the energy it produced was not just because of his stature in the world of gastronomy -- it was also due to the excitement generated by the conference that preceded it. If there had previously been any doubt, Thomas Keller’s welcome of Adria was a clarion: Spanish cuisine has landed on North American shores and is finding a niche in the North American psyche. Spanish cuisine -- in its multifaceted, delicious entirety -- lives here, too.

      + + + + +

      John M. Sconzo, M.D., aka docsconz, is an anesthesiologist practicing in upstate New York. He grew up in Brooklyn in an Italian-American home, in which food was an important component of family life. It still is. His passions include good food, wine and travel. John's gastronomic interests in upstate northeastern New York involve finding top-notch local producers of ingredients and those who use them well. A dedicated amateur, John has no plans to ditch his current career for one in the food industry. Host, New York.
    • By docsconz
      About Jose Andres
       
      Throughout his career, Jose’s vision and imaginative creations have drawn the praise of the public, the press and his peers. José has received awards and recognition from Food Arts, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Saveur, the James Beard Foundation, Wine Spectator, and Wine Advocate. In addition, José has been featured in leading food magazines such as Gourmet as well as the New York Times, the Washington Post, Good Morning America, Fox Sunday Morning News with Chris Wallace, the Food Network, and USA Today.
       
      Widely acknowledged as the premiere Spanish chef cooking in America, José is a developer and Conference Chairman for the upcoming Worlds of Flavor Conference on Spain and the World Table at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, November 2 – 5, 2006.
       
      In 1993, Jose moved to Washington, DC, to head the kitchen at Jaleo. From there, Jose took on executive chef responsibilities at neighboring Café Atlantico and later Zaytinya. In July of 2003, Jose embarked on his most adventurous project to date with the opening of the minibar by jose andres at Cafe Atlantico. A six-seat restaurant within a restaurant, minibar by jose andres continues to attract international attention with its innovative tasting menu. In the fall of 2004, Jose opened a third Jaleo and Oyamel, an authentic Mexican small plates restaurant and launched the THINKfoodTANK, an institution devoted to the research and development of ideas about food, all with a view toward their practical applications in the kitchen.
       
      Every week, millions of Spaniards invite Jose into their home where he is the host and producer of “Vamos a cocinar”, a food program on Television Española (TVE), Spanish national television. The program airs in the United States and Latin America on TVE Internacional.
       
      Jose released his first cookbook this year, first published in English, Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America (published in the United States by Clarkson Potter) and shortly after in Spanish, Los fogones de José Andrés (published by Planeta). The book is an homage to Spanish cooking and to tapas, one of Spain's gifts to the world of good cooking.
       
      Jose Andres is passionate, intelligent, dedicated, witty and a fan of FC Barcelona.
       
      Jose has been a member of the eGullet Society since 2004.
       
      More on Jose Andres in the eG Forums:
      Cooking with "Tapas" by Jose Andres
      Vamos a Cocinar - cooking show with Jose Andres
      Jaleo
      José Andrés' Minibar
      Zaytinya
      Oyamel Cocina Mexicana, Crystal City
      Cafe Atlantico
       
      Jose Andres recipes from Tapas in RecipeGullet:
      Potatoes Rioja-Style with Chorizo (Patatas a la Riojana)
      Moorish-Style Chickpea and Spinach Stew
      Squid with Caramelized Onions
    • By gibbs
      With Modernist Cuisine I waited a couple of years and ended up with a copy from the 6th printing run the advantage of this was that all errors picked up in the erratta had been corrected in the print copy.  I am looking to get modernist bread soon and wondered if someone had purchased it recently to check or if someone knew of hand if they have printed any additional corrected runs 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×