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King of the Ducks


sjemac

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The Canvasback was long considered to be the supreme being in the waterfowling world. In the market gunning days of the early 1900's a pair of Canvasbacks would fetch $7.00 at the butcher shop (roughly $200 today). The birds were nearly hunted to extinction at the time but have rebounded to become relatively common throughout North America and particularly common in Alberta.

Prime male Canvasback

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Young of the year Canvasback (far left perfect for eating -- colorful plumage does not develop until second year).

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I don't get very many of these every year so I made a point of using this one to it's maximum potential. I skinned it and removed the breasts and legs as well as reserving the heart, liver and gizzard. Pictured are the breast fillets, the liver (bottom right), and the heart (top right). The breast on the bottom left had a bit more damage fromt the bird shot than I was happy with so I thought to use it differently.

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The gizzard I confitted in olive oil with garlic, juniper berries, peppercorns etc. I made a small pate from the liver and put together a puttanesca style tartare with the heart. The legs were seared and braised in soy, mirin and duck stock made from the carcass.

The shot-up breast, I carefully trimmed and then hand chopped with some pork fat to make a slider topped with a bit of blue cheese and red onions. Whith the intact breast I prepared it veryl simply by salting it and searing it in a super hot pan for a minute a side before resting and slicing.

Clockwise from top left: Canvasback slider, Confit Canvasback gizzard on Canvasback liver pate, Canvasback heart tartare, seared Canvasback breast , soy and mirin braised Canvasback legs. A lot of work and prep but so worth it.

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Lovely uses of the duck. I have never had the opportunity to taste canvasback - how would you describe the flavor? It is so intensely red. I like the slider direction with the damaged breast .

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