Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create an account.

Sign in to follow this  
Bombdog

Curing and Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 4)

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to say hello as this is my first post.  To get the introduction out of the way, I am Jamie and live in Chicago, IL.  Found the site after searching for more info on sausage making to help hone some skills (whatever skills I actually have) and discovered this thread.  I had heard mention of the cookbook in the past but after reading this thread I couldn’t get it fast enough.

Welcome Jamie, those are some gorgeous cured meat pictures. Can't wait to see what you make next!

I'll second your meat pics! They are great! Your pastrami looks really good and I am sure tasted even better than it looked :biggrin:

We've attempted pastrami twice now and have a brisket on it's way to us from Neiman Farms in yet another attempt to keep pastrami on hand at all times (LOL). I'll be you never buy bacon from the store again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

Does anyone here have a Bologna recipe. As I recall, Charcuterie doesn't have one, and I'm sure someone here has something they use and like.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For those "too wayward to actually subscribe" to Gourmet Magazine, Ruhlman has posted "On Hot Dogs" on his blog.

Arguably the best traditional hot dog in the U.S. is made by Vienna Beef, in Chicago, which dates the hot dog’s arrival from Vienna to the 1893 World’s Fair in Chicago. Having grown up on Vienna Beef’s emulsified miracles, I decided to visit the source to see the company’s inner workings.

Interesting that Vienna Beef was so forthcoming about their methods and ingredients.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I'm making bacon for the first time and have a question. I read in the recipe that it is supposed to release a lot of liquid. My bacon has released some, but I wouldn't call it a lot. I wonder if I might not have used enough dry cure. Could someone give me an idea about how the meat should look right after the dry cure is applied (i.e. should it be extremely caked or only mildly coated) and about how much liquid I should be seeing.

Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi all,

I'm making bacon for the first time and have a question.  I read in the recipe that it is supposed to release a lot of liquid.  My bacon has released some, but I wouldn't call it a lot.  I wonder if I might not have used enough dry cure.  Could someone give me an idea about how the meat should look right after the dry cure is applied (i.e. should it be extremely caked or only mildly coated) and about how much liquid I should be seeing. 

Thanks in advance.

My experience is that dry-curing produces less (or apparently less) liquid than wet curing. I think moisture which releases into a dry cure is somewhat absorbed by it. With a liquid cure, there is nowhere for the released liquid to go, so it builds up a bit more. My guess is that your bacon will be fine. How many days has it been curing?

When I dry cure, I dredge, so the coverage isn't exactly extreme but it does create a fairly even coating around the entire belly . . . no clumps but no bare spots either. Hope that helps.

=R=

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's only been 2 days so far. I dredged it too, and it was evenly coated, but I could still see some meat through the cure, though not a lot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just when I thought I was out of it, I got sucked back into it. I'm once again doing the Have Knife-Will Travel gig again; this time in Madison, Wi at a Tex-Mex joint in a groovy neighborhood. Hey, the pay's good, the hours are flexible, the waitstaff's gorgeous, and we got a smoker on the premises.

With empty rack space.

Anybody got ideas about what I could throw in there that'd benefit from smoking over hickory for 12-13 hours at 225*F? Is that too long or too hot for bacon?

BTW, we're revamping the menu. We're gonna be doing some duck. All hail anyone who gives me a juxtaposition of duck and smoke.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[Anybody got ideas about what I could throw in there that'd benefit from smoking over hickory for 12-13 hours at 225*F? Is that too long or too hot for bacon?

Boston butt/ pulled pork....

Prob to hot and long for bacon...

Bud

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
just when I thought I was out of it, I got sucked back into it.  I'm once again doing the Have Knife-Will Travel gig again; this time in Madison, Wi at a Tex-Mex joint in a groovy neighborhood.  Hey, the pay's good, the hours are flexible, the waitstaff's gorgeous, and we got a smoker on the premises. 

With empty rack space.

Anybody got ideas about what I could throw in there that'd benefit from smoking over hickory for 12-13 hours at 225*F?  Is that too long or too hot for bacon?

BTW, we're revamping the menu.  We're gonna be doing some duck.  All hail anyone who gives me a juxtaposition of duck and smoke.

Duck confit, cold smoke, grill.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm in the middle of the spice rub for Bresaola and in need of some advice. In Ruhlman's book, the instructions called for making spice rub and divide in half. Rub half the spice in, place in zip lock and store for week and then repeat process with other half - then air dry.

I failed to follow the directions (I chalk it up to my excitement over a successful duck proscuitto and anctipation of cured beef) SO after the first rub and first week, I washed off that rub, padded dry and then applied second - which is now back in zip lock. Question - by washing the first rub off did I hurt the curing process for Bresaola or how can I tell if its ok to air dry?

thanks,

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you'll be fine since you reapplied the 2nd 1/2 of the rub...go along with teh instructions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm in the middle of the spice rub for Bresaola and in need of some advice. In Ruhlman's book, the instructions called for making spice rub and divide in half. Rub half the spice in, place in zip lock and store for week and then repeat process with other half - then air dry.

I failed to follow the directions (I chalk it up to my excitement over a successful duck proscuitto and anctipation of cured beef) SO after the first rub and first week, I washed off that rub, padded dry and then applied second - which is now back in zip lock. Question - by washing the first rub off did I hurt the curing process for Bresaola or how can I tell if its ok to air dry?

thanks,

Mike

Could you talk a little bit about ur experience making the duck prosciutto and any changes you may have made to your recipe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm in the middle of the spice rub for Bresaola and in need of some advice. In Ruhlman's book, the instructions called for making spice rub and divide in half. Rub half the spice in, place in zip lock and store for week and then repeat process with other half - then air dry.

I failed to follow the directions (I chalk it up to my excitement over a successful duck proscuitto and anctipation of cured beef) SO after the first rub and first week, I washed off that rub, padded dry and then applied second - which is now back in zip lock. Question - by washing the first rub off did I hurt the curing process for Bresaola or how can I tell if its ok to air dry?

thanks,

Mike

Could you talk a little bit about ur experience making the duck prosciutto and any changes you may have made to your recipe

Jeremy, I played the duck proscuitto pretty much by the book. Used the salt cure then white pepper - next time will add some garlic and maybe junipers. I was mostly concerned with the drying environment since my first time I relied on my basement (first level in sf) and ruined pancetta. Upon someones recommendation on this site, I bought a tall dorm fridge, small fan and water pan. Duck was the first thing in the chamber and both temperature and humidity were nearly perfect. Did leave in the duck for 9 days because it still felt slightly soft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It's only been 2 days so far.  I dredged it too, and it was evenly coated, but I could still see some meat through the cure, though not a lot.

How's it looking now?

=R=

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It's only been 2 days so far.  I dredged it too, and it was evenly coated, but I could still see some meat through the cure, though not a lot.

How's it looking now?

=R=

Well, today it looks even drier than it did before. In fact, the liquid seems to all but have disappeared. I'm smoking it Thursday morning. That will make about 7.5 days. I'm sure it will be fine, but I just don't know if it will have that cured bacon flavor than I am expecting. Either way, no loss. I'll update when I find out how it tastes.


Edited by A Patric (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An update:

The bacon turned out perfectly after all. It certainly was cured, and actually was the best bacon I've ever had.

At the same time I also made the chicken and garlic sausages and smoked those. They are definitely the best chicken sausages that I've ever eaten My brother couldn't even tell that they were chicken sausages.

I'm looking forward to the next two things on the list which will both be for Christmas:

The American-style glazed ham, and the sopressata (sp?)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A Patric, that's a great idea to make sopressata for Christmas. I've been away from the thread for a bit - have you started yours already? I've never made it before, - got the beef middles a while ago so I could, then got distracted by summer. If you haven't already made yours, let's do it together. Cyber-together, that is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Abra,

Sounds great. The only problem, though, is that I need to freeze my fat for about another 9 days. At that point, I'd be ready to get moving, but I am going to be out of town for a week from Dec 3rd to the 10th, and I won't have anyone who I can trust to know when to pull the sausage at the right moment. Since the recipe calls for 2-3 weeks of drying, that could cause some problems. So, I'll probably wait to make it until right before I leave as I can at least count on someone to wipe it with brine if any odd mold begins to show. That will be on the 30th or the 1st (somewhere in there). If you are willing to wait, great; if not, completely understood.

Best,

AP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well you guys were right, this stuff is acctictive. I got the book over the summer, but since all I ever saw of the summer was the restaurant and bed, I couldn't start some projects until now. I started with the Duck Procuitto, and after that decided to start on sausages. Even without making a single sausage I still felt compelled to buy the Grizzly stuffer. It's like a weird compulsion

I just finished making some of the breakfast sausage for my Mom's B&B, and was almost reluctant to let her guests eat them since they came out so well, and I just wanted to keep them all for myself.

The first thing I wanted to do after making the first batch was to make another one. I wanted to make the Chicken and basil one's but my buther didn't have any back fat, so he had to order it. Instead I think I'm going to try the garlic sausage. Has anyone tried that one yet?

I'm a little nervous to start working with the casings, as I can see that going horribly wrong, but I'm still excited to try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well you guys were right, this stuff is acctictive. I got the book over the summer, but since all I ever saw of the summer was the restaurant and bed, I couldn't start some projects until now. I started with the Duck Procuitto, and after that decided to start on sausages. Even without making a single sausage I still felt compelled to buy the Grizzly stuffer. It's like a weird compulsion

Welcome to the club! :biggrin:

I just finished making some of the breakfast sausage for my Mom's B&B, and was almost reluctant to let her guests eat them since they came out so well, and I just wanted to keep them all for myself.

LOL! I know the feeling. Happily, the fact that most of these items are perishable keeps me from hoarding them.

The first thing I wanted to do after making the first batch was to make another one.

That's exactly how I felt and still feel. It's absolutely the best way to learn and improve your skills.

I'm a little nervous to start working with the casings, as I can see that going horribly wrong, but I'm still excited to try.

Every once in a while, casings misbehave. But again, the more you work with them, the more familiar you'll become with the variables. I've probably made 75 batches of sausage since I started with this work and even now, the outcomes sometimes surprise. I often compare it to bread-baking. Both it and charcuterie are such rewarding types of cooking.

Please keep us updated on your projects.

=R=

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, it's been 8 months since I started my first curing project, the salt cured ham.

I prepared it just like the book instructed; covered in lard and cracked peppercorns, wrapped in cheese cloth, and then left it to hang in the back of my chamber through many, many other projects. I pulled it at 6 months to check the wt. Then again at 8. Last week it finally seemed to have the right combination of wt loss and firmness.

gallery_16509_1680_252965.jpg

Here it is after unwrapping and wiping off the majority of the lard. I was a bit concerned, as it just didn't look very appetizing.

gallery_16509_1680_100088.jpg

But then I began to slice of some thin pieces from the large end. MMMMMM, yummy!

Very pleased with the results. Of course, now I need to be starting another if I want more by next August!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Looks very nice. How is the flavor? Prosciutto like? or different entirely

Well, I guess it's proscuitto like, in a general way. It doesn't have the depth of flavor you would get in a good proscuitto. Then again, it's not from any kind of special pork.

I've discovered a local producer of free range heirloom pork. Hopefully next week I'll have a new supply of shoulder, etc for the next batch of products. My intention is to do the next ham with one from these folks.

I'll let you know late next summer what kind of difference there is :biggrin:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By boilsover
      Solid intermediate cook, here.  Not especially intimidated by elaborate preps.  But I'm new to SV, and would like a recommendation for a cookbook for guidance and exploration.
       
      I was thinking of Tom Keller's Under Pressure, but I'm wondering if the preps he includes may not be the most generally useful.  What do you all like, and why?
       
      Thanks!
    • By Chris Hennes
      On Nov. 7, 2017, Modernist Bread will finally arrive on my doorstep. Having preordered it literally the first day it was available, to say I'm excited about this book is a bit of an understatement. The team at The Cooking Lab have been gracious enough to give @Dave the Cook and me early electronic access to the book and so I've spent the last week pouring over it. I'm just going to start with a few initial comments here (it's 2600 pages long, so a full review is going to take some time, and require a bunch of baking!). Dave and I would also be happy to answer any questions you've got.
       
      One of the main things I've noticed about this book is a change in tone from the original Modernist Cuisine. It comes across as less "everything you know is wrong" and more "eighty bazillion other bakers have contributed to this knowledge and here's our synthesis of it." I don't think it's an exaggeration to say that Myhrvold and company are now the most experienced bread-bakers in the world. Not necessarily in terms of the number of identical loaves they've produced, but in the shear number of different recipes and techniques they've tried and the care with which they've analyzed the results. These volumes are a distillation of 100,000 years of human breadmaking experience, topped off with a dose of the Modernist ethos of taking what we know to the next level.
       
      The recipes include weight, volume, and baker's percentages, and almost all of them can be made by both a home baker and someone baking in a commercial facility. The home baker might need to compromise on shape (e.g. you can't fit a full-length baguette in most home ovens) but the book provides clear instructions for both the amateur and professional. The recipes are almost entirely concentrated in volumes 4 and 5, with very few in the other volumes (in contrast to Modernist Cuisine, where there were many recipes scattered throughout). I can't wait for the physical volumes to arrive so that I can have multiple volumes open at once, the recipes cross-reference techniques taught earlier quite frequently.
    • By Chris Hennes
      I just got a copy of Grace Young's "Stir-Frying to the Sky's Edge"—I enjoyed cooking from "Breath of a Wok" and wanted to continue on that path. Does anyone else have this book? Have you cooked anything from it?

      Here was dinner tonight:

      Spicy Dry-Fried Beef (p. 70)

      I undercooked the beef just a bit due to a waning propane supply (I use an outdoor propane-powered wok burner), but there's nothing to complain about here. It's a relatively mild dish that lets the flavors of the ingredients (and the wok) speak. Overall I liked it, at will probably make it again (hopefully with a full tank of gas).


    • By CanadianSportsman
      Greetings,

      I've cooked several recipes from Keller's "Bouchon" the last couple of weeks, and have loved them all! At the moment (as in right this minute) I'm making the boeuf Bourguignon, and am a little confused about the red wine reduction. After reducing the wine, herbs, and veg for nearly an hour now, I'm nowhere near the consistancy of a glaze that Keller specifies. In fact, it looks mostly like the veg is on the receiving end of most of it. Is this how the recipe is meant to be? Can anybody tell me what kind of yield is expected? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, kindly. 
    • By Paul Fink
      This unfortunately titled book changed my life. I always enjoyed cooking and idealized Julia Child &
      Jacque Pepin. But I was a typical home cook. I would see a recipe and try to duplicate it little understanding about what I was doing.
       
      Cooking the Nouvelle Cuisine in America talked about a philosophy of cooking. It showed me that there is more depth to cooking. A history. A philosophy.
      The recipes are very approachable and you can make them on a budget from grocery store ingredients. I read it as a grad student in Oregon, in the late 80's I had access to lots of fresh ingredients. And some very nice wines, cheap! I was suppose to be studying physics but I end up learning more about wine & cooking.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×