Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Riverhill Restaurant, Oxton, Wirral


Recommended Posts

Previous trips to Oxton have been to eat at Fraiche, so it was perhaps surprising (not least, to us) that we made the drive to eat at somewhere that hasn’t yet had that sort of acclaim. Or really, any sort of acclaim. But it was the chef, you see, that was the reason. Claire Lara won “Masterchef – the Professionals” a couple of years back – as fellow north westerners we were wishing her success as the programme developed so, really, we just had to go and eat her food.

I think it must be difficult for a chef to set out their cuisine when their gaff is the restaurant in a mid-range hotel like the Riverhill. You’re catering for hotel guests and visiting diners and the two groups may well have different expectations. There’s a well priced set menu that will appeal to hotel guests, perhaps constrained by their company’s expenses budget and a better looking carte that touches base with the requirements of the “modern Brit” menu. And it was from the latter that we ordered.

There was, almost inevitably, a scallop and black pudding starter. Three plump scallops, perhaps slightly overdone, sitting on their own spoonfuls of pea puree. Alongside, three discs of black pud, topped with a little chopped apple. Nothing to shout from the rooftops about but a good dish just for eating and enjoying.

The other starter featured pigeon breast – cooked rare. A little shredded cabbage; a little potato puree; and a light jus. This was spot on and, for me, it doesnt really get more autumnal.

It’s a long time since I’ve seen a dish prepared “en papillote” and it must be time for a come-back. Here, a fillet of sea bream, together with juliennes of pepper, carrot leek and fennel, was a lovely light dish. The fish was studded with a couple of pieces of lemon grass and the citrus flavour was enhanced by a good squeeze of lemon which formed the steaming juice.

It’s often the case that I order the more girly dish while herself goes for a more butch offering. And tonight was no exception. A decent fillet steak, sautéed wild mushrooms and steamed spinach and, alongside, a “sandwich” of pressed potato and very long-cooked oxtail and a red wine sauce.

And, to finish, there’s a proper old-fashioned dessert trolley. Unfortunately, desserts are not the restaurant’s strong point. Trifle was a decent effort with a good sponge but, if you’re going to advertise it as “sherry trifle”, you should be able to taste sherry – and you couldn’t. A chocolate/orange tart was chocolately and orangey but the biscuit base was tasteless and soggy.

John Hartley

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...