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Michelin Guide, Great Britain & Ireland 2013


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Less than two weeks before this eagerly awaited guide is released. Chefs and restaurateurs have their fingers crossed hoping to gain recognition, as this really is the guide the industry respects above all others.

OK, who's getting their first star? Who's getting there second or third? Who will lose theirs?

For what its worth.

This is to start the ball rolling.

I have eaten quite a lot of Simon Rogan's food this year along with a very good selection of other one and two star chefs.

He is easily on par with all of the two star chefs and if he does not get his second star this year there is some kind of conspiricy going on.

Of the new stars Medlar is head and shoulders up there for recognition.

More to follow.

"So many places, so little time"

http://londoncalling...blogspot.co.uk/

@d_goodfellow1

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Yes. Agree on Alyn Williams had a very good meal there about three weeks ago.

Not tried Paul food yet but will do on Weds at Nutters in Rochdale at the Dingly Dell Pork extravaganza.

Cambridge is due another star is it not?

"So many places, so little time"

http://londoncalling...blogspot.co.uk/

@d_goodfellow1

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When Aumbry opened, it was touted as the place that was finally going to bring a star to Greater Manchester (yes, I know we'd all heard that before - several times).

Ii's taken a couple of years but I think it may now be ready.

John Hartley

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I was just thinking in the old days this would have been 12 pages long by now, and whether the results might even not be mentioned until publication!

Michelin appears to favour evolution over revolution. If they think the same way as the many starred chefs that have graced its dining room Hedone should be nailed on.

However as we have seen with many new individual restuarants over the years such as Anthony's, Fraiche, and L'Enclume, Michelin are in no rush to award stars to newly formed businesses with little in the way of history with the guide, hence many 'new' stars historically go to former star holders in new places, and 'new' places can wait a long time to become recognised, and a good clutch of stars will go places completely un-mentioned on food boards or blogs!

Sat Bains waited a long time for his second, and with Roganic and other expansion in Cartmel wouldn't be surprised if L'Enclume wasn't upgraded this year either, regardless of what's currently on the plate.

I hope the Star at Harome gets theirs back, and The Pheasant is an outside chance, I thought the Star was going to be the first 2* pub easily, which just goes to prove how little I know. (If that were in doubt.....)

Edited by Gary Marshall (log)

you don't win friends with salad

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I've said this before and I'll say it again: I think Michelin have a real element of a petulant child about them. The problem a number of UK chefs had in recent years is GFG and AA recognised their talent long before Michelin and my theory is they don't like being beaten to the punch. Wareing and Sat are two prime cases in point who shot up the ranks of 'other' guides and then waited longer than they should for their second stars. There are a number of current chefs who now face the same probem (although the best example is perhaps to be found overseas at Noma), so it will be interesting to see what happens this year.

My money on major activity for this year is going to Scotland and Edinburgh. I wouldn't be surprised if Wishart and / or Kitchin get elevated and, as a total left field prediction, a possible third for Fairlie. Having eaten his food this year I think his style and execution is slap bang center of the target in terms of what Michelin favour. They threw a wild card at us last year in the form of the Hand & Flowers and I wouldn't put them past awarding the first three star north of the border as this years talking point. Not to mention the fact he's flown under the radar relative to his peers so could be, for want of a better word, their 'discovery'.

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this really is the guide the industry respects above all others.

Really?

I think most people are utterly bored. Industry and more importantly, customers.

I don't. in fact I don't think there is any comparison.

Michelin is the gold standard that translates across language and country. you can argue whether it should be (and probably make a decent case), but not whether it is.

Edited by Scott (log)

A meal without wine is... well, erm, what is that like?

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Doesn't look like any new ***s (wouldn't have expected any, but David Everitt-M must be getting bored of his ** by now!)

Looks like Greenhouse, Petersham Nurseries have kept their * despite changes of chef. Ditto North Road (although I think that change may have been late for this guide). No star for Anima - Mazzei must be getting a bit fed up by now!

Overall apart from maybe Sketch going to **s I don't feel there's any big surprises. Maybe I'd have thought they'd have waiting a year to macaron Dabbous and Alyn Williams, given they waited for Hedone and Medlar?

Amused by michelins unending ability to cock-up the release of the mich star release. Reminds me of our 4x100m relay team!

J

Edited by Jon Tseng (log)
More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!
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Fantastic news for Mark Poynton at Alimentum I thought it was about time he got one.

Michael Wignall at Pennyhill Park as well. Much much deserved, top chef indeed.

Simon Rogan just had to get his second. Long overdue but finally.

Hooray Michelin

"So many places, so little time"

http://londoncalling...blogspot.co.uk/

@d_goodfellow1

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Great celebrations in Dublin, Locks Brasserie won a Michelin star, it’s been confirmed their end. So thrilled for them, a brilliant team, wonderful room, food, and service. Interesting move on Michelin’s part. Locks is more Wild Honey than stuffy formal dining, so great to see this type of restaurant get an award in Ireland.

The Greenhouse must be disappointed. On my two visits there, I was hugely impressed with Mickael Viljanen’s cooking. Maybe it’s too soon… or maybe Michelin is getting a little bit less Michelin and looking for a more relaxed vibe at one star level.

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I think in the case of the Greenhouse it really was just too soon. They only opened in, what, April? Can't imagine they were actually expecting one. If they're not in next year, that will be a surprise/disappointment I think.

I'm surprised at Lock's, I have to say. I liked the restaurant certainly on my one or two visits, but it was never on my Michelin radar. Must go back.

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    • By boilsover
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      A. Display
       
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      The numerical display is large and bright. The numerical display area is divided between time (XX:XX) to the user’s left and power/temp to the user’s right. If the timer or program features are activated, the numerical display shows both the set time and the power/temperature. There is also a small “Hot Surface” LED icon on the panel.
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      B. Safety Features
       
      As one would expect, there are a variety of safety features built into this appliance. In most cases, these features are controlled by detection circuits, some fixed, some defeatable/variable. This being a commercial unit, Panasonic has set the unit’s defaults with commercial users’ convenience in mind. If consumers want the full spectrum of safety settings, they need to vary these defaults. For instance, if a home cook wants to make sure the unit powers off if the pan is removed and not replaced within 3 minutes, they have to manually vary a default. Likewise if the operator wants the power to automatically shut off after 2 hours of no changes. But others, like the basic “Is there a pan there?” detection and overheat shutoff, are there no matter what and cannot be defeated.
      C. Settings & Programming

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      The timer operation is fast and intuitive. Once the power or temperature is set and operating, the operator merely keys the timer’s dedicated up/down buttons, and the timer display area activates. Timer settings are in any 30-second interval between 30 seconds and 9 ½ hours, and the display will show remaining time. The beeps at the end of cooking are loud.
       
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      D. Maintenance
       
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      IV. Acceptable Cookware
       
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      V. Evaluation in Use

      I can say that not only does the Panasonic KY-MK3500 “work” with copper and aluminum pans, but that it works very well with them. Thermally, thick gauge conductive material pans perform in close emulation of the same pans on gas, even though there are no combustion gasses flowing up and around the pan. I found this startling.
       
      Nevertheless, a searching comparison between copper and ferromagnetic pans on this unit isn’t as straightforward as one might expect. The Panasonic is capable of dumping a full 3500 watts into ferromagnetic pans, but is limited to 2400 watts for aluminum and copper. Despite copper’s and aluminum’s superiorities in conductivity, that extra 1100 watts is going to win every speed-boil race.
       
      I initially thought I could handicap such a race simply by using the temperature setting and comparing the times required to achieve a “preheat” in a pans of cold water. Alas, no—the Panasonic’s IR function signified the copper pan was preheated to 350F before the water even reached 70F! Obviously, the entire thermal system of cold food in a cold pan needs to come to equilibrium before the Panasonic’s temperature readout becomes meaningful.

      A. Temperature Settings
       
      Unfortunately, with every pan I tried, the temperature settings were wildly inaccurate for measuring the temperature of the food. I heated 2 liters of peanut oil in a variety of pots, disk-base, enameled cast iron enameled steel, and copper. I thought it might be useful to see how close to 350F and 375F the settings were for deep frying. The oil in a Le Creuset 5.5Q Dutch oven set to 350F never made it past 285F, and it took 40:00 to get there. I kept bumping up the setting until I found that the setting for 420F will hold the oil at 346F. A disk-based pot didn’t hit 365F until the temperature setting was boosted to 400F. The only pan which came remotely close to being true to the settings was a 2mm silvered copper oven, which heated its oil to 327F when the Panasonic was set for 350F, and 380F when set for 410F.
       
      The temperature function was a lot closer to true when simply preheating an empty pan. With a setting of 350F, all the shiny stainless pans heated to just a few degrees higher (about 353-357F) and held there. This is useful for judging the Leidenfrost Point (which is the heat at which you can oil your SS and have it cook relatively nonstick) and potentially for “seasoning” carbon steel, SS and aluminum, but not much else, since it doesn’t translate to actual food temperature. There’s also the issue of the temperature settings *starting* at 285F, so holding a lower temperature for, e.g., tempering chocolate or a sous vide bath, or even a simmer would be by-guess-by-golly just like any other hob—your only resort is lots of experience with lower *power* settings.
       
      With heat-tarnished copper, a 350F setting resulted in a wide swinging between 353F and 365F, which I attribute to the copper shedding heat far faster than the other constructions, once the circuit stops the power at temperature. Then, when the circuit cycles the power back on, the copper is so responsive that it quickly overshoots the setting. Aluminum, on the other hand, *undershot*, the 350F setting, registering a cycle of 332-340F.

      I conclude that the IR sensor is set for some particular emissivity, probably for that of stainless steel. If true, the Panasonic, even though it automatically switches frequencies, does not compensate for the different emissivities of copper and aluminum. And even if Panasonic added dedicated aluminum and copper IR sensors, there is enough difference between dirty and polished that the added cost would be wasted. Bottom line here: the temperature setting mode is of extremely low utility, and should not be trusted.
       
      B. Power Mode – Pan Material Comparisons
       
      Given the differences in power setting granularity and maximum power between the two frequencies, it is difficult to assess what X watts into the pot means in, say, a copper-versus-clad or –disk showdown. What is clear, however, is that Setting X under disk and clad seems “hotter” than the same setting under copper and aluminum.

      I will need to precisely calibrate the Panasonic for wattage anyway for the hyperconductivity project, so I will obtain a higher-powered watt meter to determine the wattage of every power setting for both frequencies. Until then, however, the only way I can fairly handicap a race is to apply a reduction figure to the ferromagnetic setting (2400W being 69% of 3500W). Given that we know the wattage at the maximum settings, we can infer that Setting 14 (actually 13.8) on the 20-step ferromagnetic range iis approximately the same heat output as the maximum setting (18) for copper/aluminum.

      The boil times for 4 liters of 50F water in 10” diameter pots shocked me. The 10” x 3mm tinned copper pot’s water reached 211F in 36:41. Not an especially fast time at 2400 watts. The 10” disk-based pressure cooker bottom? Well, it didn’t make it—it took an hour to get to 208F and then hung there. So that left me wondering if the Panasonic engineers simply decided that 2400 watts was enough for copper and aluminum. I have a theory why the copper pot boiled and the SS one didn’t under the same power, but getting into that’s for another time.

      C. Evenness Comparisons
       
      The wires which generate the induction field are wound in a circular pattern; when energized, they create a torus-shaped magnetic field. The wound coil is constructed with an empty hole at its center. As matters of physics, the magnetic field’s intensity drops off extremely fast as a function of the distance from the coil; a few millimeters above the Ceran, the field is so weak no meaningful heat will be generated. This means that most induction cooktops heat *only* the very bottom of pans, and in a distinct 2-dimensional “doughnut” shape.

      All of the above can result in a pan having a cooler central spot, a hotter ring directly over the coil, and a cooler periphery outside the coil. It is left to the cookware to try to even out these thermal discontinuities when cooking. Some materials and pan constructions are better at this than others: the successful constructions utilize more highly-conductive metals such as aluminum and copper, but unless the material is very thick, there can be a ring-shaped hotspot that can scorch food.
      Until the Panasonic arrived to market, hotspot comparisons between ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper pans depended largely on comparing induction’s flat, more discrete heat ring with gas’s more diffuse, 3-dimensional one. Dodgeball-style debate ensued, with few clear conclusions. But now, for the first time, equally-powered flat heat rings in two different frequencies allow us to directly compare evenness in ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper cookware.

      The simplest and easiest way to assess cookware evenness is the “scorchprint”, which does not require infrared or other advanced thermal imaging equipment. I’ve posted on how to conduct scorchprinting elsewhere, but basically a pan is evenly dusted with flour; heat is applied to the pan bottom. As the flour is toasted, any hotspots visually emerge, giving the viewer a useful general idea of evenness.
       
      I will later post the photos of scorchprints I made of 4 different pans run using the Panasonic KY-MK3500: (1) a Demeyere 28cm Proline 5* clad frypan; (2) a Fissler Original Profi disk-base 28cm frypan; a 6mm aluminum omelet pan; and (4) a 32cm x 3.2mm Dehillerin sauté. To make it a fair race, I heated all the pans at 2400W until they reached 450F, and then backed off the power setting to maintain 450F. I did this in order not to compromise my saute’s tin lining. As you will see, both the clad Demeyere and the disk-based Fissler did print the typical brown doughnut, with a cooler center and periphery. By far the most even was the thick, all-aluminum pan, which actually was even over its entirety—even including the walls. The copper sauté was also quite even, although its larger size and mass really dissipated heat; once 450F was dialed in, no more browning happened, even after 30 minutes.
       
      I conclude that the straightgauge pans were far more effective at shunting heat to their peripheries and walls (and also to some extent into the air) than the clad and disk-based pans. The latter accumulated their heat with most of it staying in the center of the pans. Eventually, even the “doughnut hole” blended into the scorch ring because the walls were not bleeding sufficient heat away from the floor. This was especially pronounced in the Fissler, the high wall and rim areas of which never exceeded 125F. The aluminum pan, in contrast varied less than 30F everywhere on the pan.

      D. Other Considerations

      The Panasonic’s fan noise at the cook’s position was noticeable at 63 dBA, higher than with the VMP’s 57 dBA. These levels are characterized as “normal conversation” and “quiet street”, respectively. Interestingly, I found two other, potentially more important differences. First, the Panasonic’s fan stays on, even after the unit is powered off, whereas the VMP’s fan shuts off immediately when the hob is turned off. Second, the Panasonic’s fan steps down from the louder speed to a much quieter (47 dBA, characterized as “quiet home”) level until the Ceran is cool to sustained touch, at which point it shuts off completely. I think the Panasonic’s ability to continue to vent and cool itself is a great feature, especially since a cook could leave a large, full, hot pan on the glass.

      The glowing circle is useless for gauging heat setting or intensity. And while it works to indicate a hot surface, it remains lit long after you can hold your hand in place dead center.
       
      VI. Summary and Lessons
       
      The Panasonic KY-MK3500 is a solid unit, well-conceived and rugged. It is extremely easy to use. It works well with both the common 24kHz frequency used with ferromagnetic cookware, and the 90kHz frequency chosen here for copper and aluminum. It effectively and automatically switches between the two.

      In my opinion, it points the way to expanding the worldwide induction appliance market to include dual frequencies. It also obviates the need to: (a) junk otherwise excellent cookware merely to have induction; and (b) retrofit designs to bond on ferromagnetic outer layers. In fact, in my opinion, my tests indicate that, in a dual-frequency world, adding ferromagnetic bottoms may well be a drag on pans’ performance.
       
      I also consider the Panasonic Met-All to be ground-breaking in what it can tell us about *pans*, because all metallic pans are now commensurable on induction. Clearly (to me anyway), watt-for-watt, the copper and aluminum pans performed better than did the clad and disk-based pans on this unit. Boil times were faster, there was less propensity to scorch, and the conductive-sidewall pans definitely added more heat to the pans’ contents. We may ultimately find that 90kHz fields save energy compared to 24kHz fields, much as copper and aluminum require less heat on gas and electric coil.
      In terms of heat transfer, the copper and aluminum pans came close to emulating the same pans on gas. And at 2400W/3500W it has the power of a full size appliance in a relatively small tabletop package.
       
      The Panasonic is far from perfect, however. It can’t really be considered portable. There are far too few temperature settings, and what few it has are not accurate or consistent in terms of judging pan contents and attaining the same temperature in different pans (and even the same pan unless clean). The luminous ring could easily have been made a useful indicator of intensity, but wasn’t. And it lacks things that should be obvious, including a through-the-glass “button” contact thermocouple, more power granularity, an analog-style control knob, and capacity to accept an external thermocouple probe for PID control.
       
      Most importantly for me, the Panasonic KY-MK3500 portends more good things to come. Retail price remains $1,700-$2,400, but I jumped on it at $611, and I’ve seen it elsewhere for as low as $1,200.
       
      The manual can be found here: ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/commercialfoo...
       
      Photo Credit:  Panasonic Corporation

    • By umami5
      Has anyone come across a digital version of Practical Professional Cookery (revised 3rd edition) H.L. Cracknell & R.J. Kaufmann.
      I am using this as the textbook for my culinary arts students and a digital version would come in very handy for creating notes and handouts.
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