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Food Photos from Chile and Argentina

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One of the on our meals...one evening in Bariloche. Just something small...was this delicious bowl of Sorrentinos. I did not know what they were but they were stuffed with cheese and ham so how could that be bad. They were delicious and DH especially liked the sauce.


He was only going to have "a little bowl of soup" which turned out to be a huge bowl of fresh style onion soup. Tasty, but did not photograph well. The pizza in this place looked fabulous and those who had it said it was. Sorry, can't eat everything.

We now leave the countryside (Bariloche is a city, but you don't have to go far to be in the mountains and grasslands) and head for the BIG city. We are lucky as the airport has re-opened (that volcano thing again) so we skip the all day bus ride to another city which was then followed by a flight. Now we can just fly a couple of hours to Buenos Aires...our last stop.

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Our time in Buenos Aires is divided into 3 parts/locations.

First we finish up our tour at the beautiful Hotel NHLancaster...in "Downtown" It's near Ave Florida with lots of shopping and a huge mall. We're busy and there is not much time for sightseeing.

Part 2 is 3 nights in San Telmo neighborhood, the "Bohemian" up and coming area. Of the 3 neighborhoods this was most convenient for finding places to eat. We were just getting started on exploring when we moved on to...

Part 3 "near" Palermo Soho...it was a hike (almost a mile) each way to dinner. Lots of options once you got to town. We were here 8 nights, divided into two stays as we went to Iguazu Falls for two nights.

SO...on our night out on our own...we walk ....to a recommended Italian place. Wood fired oven...right in sight. We ordered a pie with sliced tomatoes. It came Instantly. Either it cooked in 2 minutes, or they have them ready. No matter. It was hot, tasty and very filling with all that melted cheese. With a fridge in our room it became lunch the next day.


A nice feature of Grand Circle is the "Home Hosted " meal. We walked with our host to his nearby apartment for dinner. The plan for all the groups (we divided into several groups of +/-6) was to make empanadas. The hostess had the meat mixture ready and we used "discos" of packaged empanada dough since she said everybody used them. We had a starter:


Then hot from oven empanadas eaten out of hand wrapped in a napkin.


I have to admit I bought the wrappers here and tried them with kids and they were easy to use, and as good as my yeast dough, and my baking powder versions. Still searching for the right wrapper recipe.

Dessert was a lovely flan. Lots of wine was served. It was one of "smaller" meals we've had in a home....someone said it was the only meal in S. America where they didn't overeat.

A surprise in the apartment...a sign of home...a Wegmans bag brought by a previous guest.


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That pizza almost looks like a layer of cheese with tomatoes on top - and no bread! And whilst pizza experts may disagree, I mean that in a good way :)

There was crust, a rim around the outside but you're right, very thin in middle. Of the several we had, all were good, all were thin, but this one had the (dried?) herbs and the tomatoes and the taste was just right to us. Even good cold.

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This is one fine trip you have managed. Good for you! and many thanks for sharing.


Glad you are enjoying it. Stay tuned for a VERY old bar in San Telmo, some steak (with purple sauce) a bit of fast food and a BIG ending with meat and cheese enough for a group.

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Everything is just beautiful - what you saw, what you ate! Thank you so much for this report. I treasure the trip stories that folks are kind enough to post here!

I am with Kim. This is just about the most enjoyable series on eGullet I have been party to.



learn, learn, learn...


We live in hope. 

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Thank you for your kind words. It has been work, and fun to do this but now I have a nice record of the food part of the trip. Doing the blog has taken longer (from home) than the 4 week trip I think.

Today: Random Shots that don't fit any special day. All taken in Buenos Aires.

Grilling meat outside, in La Boca:


Ready to grill meat inside in a Palermo Steakhouse:


A different kind of pizza, downtown BA, one of the few cheap, grab and go foods we saw.


Lots of fruit on the breakfast buffet at NHLancaster:


There is a small Armenian neighborhood in Palermo. We ate outside on the sidewalk and shared this one HUGE and very tasty plate of chicken and rice (following stuffed grape leaves). Couldn't even finish it.


Whenever we passed this Armenian bakery it was crowded. Finally I made it there at the proper time to have a wonderful "Armenian Pizza" . It was delicious and made a great "rolled up and eaten with hands" lunch.


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Chilean sopaipillas

I DID find some, from the same place at the fish market in Puerto Montt where I had the cheese and shrimp empanada.

Not ours, but took the picture of them when others got them. Served with pebre it looks like. That woman in that shop "knew" dough, you can just tell they are crispy and light.1-IMG_4006.JPG

Thanks for the picture! They look just like the ones my friend's mom used to make. I really loved them, so I was always disappointed when I ordered them in restaurants. Restaurant sopaipillas were always so heavy compared to hers.

re: empanadas--I have a great empanada dough recipe that I love. It uses lard. If you want it, I'd be happy to send it to you so you could try it out.

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re: empanadas--I have a great empanada dough recipe that I love. It uses lard. If you want it, I'd be happy to send it to you so you could try it out.

I'd love to have it, prasantrin. Please.



learn, learn, learn...


We live in hope. 

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re: empanadas--I have a great empanada dough recipe that I love. It uses lard. If you want it, I'd be happy to send it to you so you could try it out.

Me Too, Please. It was amazing the look, texture and "feel" of the different doughs. But I'm not happy with mine.


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ONCE IN A WHILE...when you're hot and tired and thirsty...and need a bathroom...there is a beacon to welcome you. Many places in the world.


Calling to you:


This McDonalds in BA did not disappoint. It was cool, it had rest rooms, relaxed type seating, a McCafe with all kinds of coffee drinks, and a dessert cafe with great looking goodies. Lots of business from locals...lingering as we were.

DH had this:


and I had a McFish.

But the highlight of a visit to McDonalds on a hot day in BA is this beauty:


A McFlurry as done only in South America. The "bits" are pieces of milk and white chocolate or remarkably good quality. The final touch is a big blob of Dulce de Leche (it really is in everything). After being a tourist for several hours we cannot scoff at that cold, sweet and yummy cup of goodness. It was about $4.50 and it was enough to share...but just barely.

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Now, for a bit of miscellaneous food, and drink shopping. With large provided breakfasts in our B&Bs we really had no need for snacks. But despite being told we could drink the water we stuck to bottled water to keep the tummies content. Plus DH likes a cold beer at the end of the day and we both enjoyed a glass of Marbec on the patio. Besides, what's more interesting than a foreign supermarket.

One sort of interesting thing is that all the city Supermercadoes seem to be run by Chinese people. Each market, has the same layout and organization with some variation in fresh things.


A couple kinds of liquid refreshment:



There is also an old traditional market in San Telmo. Not busy when we were there.1-IMG_4628.JPG

On Saturdays there was a neighborhood market on Armenia Square. Interesting in that you waited in line for a clerk and then that clerk helped you choose all the things you wanted from the fruit and veggie part. 1-IMG_4803.JPG

Nothing like an ice cold Iguana at the end of a hot day.


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Nothing like a homemade ice cream on a hot day in Buenos Aires. We were lucky in San Telmo to have found "Nonna's Helado".

There were LOTS of choices:1-IMG_4772.JPG


Then sit on the rickety old bench out in front and enjoy.

Read about BA Ice Cream...Dulce de Leche appears again:

BA ice cream.pdf

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OK, I promised Beef with purple sauce...but first an example of a different beef place...this time in San Telmo.


And in case you don't know the cuts, a chart is provided at another place.


At Lo de Jesus in Palermo we ate outside and shared a Steak with Malbec Sauce, roasted potatoes and a salad with lettuce and tomatoes. A nice meal, not fabulous but it made for a pleasant dining experience. The purple sauce was a bit odd looking, but we liked it.


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One of the great things about BA is the Cafe Notables...which are a group of protected cafes which are not allowed to change. We visited Bar Federal which was one of my very favorite meals of the trip. I would have liked to had several more visits to it. There were lots of choices I would have liked to try.

Opened in 1864 it is not only fascinating to sit in, but the food was delicious. Just a very interesting way to spend time.



DH had a Chicken Supreme which was just a pounded, breaded and fried chicken breast. But I liked how they left the little wing on...maybe to show you it was a real breast. That came with toasty hot (homemade?) waffle potato chips.


I had the most "eat every bite and lick the plate" tasty Sorrentions. Excellent pasta, lovely ham and cheese filling, wonderful sauce.


What we needed was more places like this to eat.

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I think it is just like our "Landmark" status in the U.S. The look of the building must stay the same; I can't be sure of the menu itself but now that they are special why would they want to change it. They are local favorites AND some are listed in guidebooks. Once we started looking for them we found several.

A nice article in NYTimes:


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OK....this if the big ending of 32 days in South America. A very good trip with wonderful sights, especially Bariloche and Iguazu Falls.

Good food all along the way, never a meal we didn't enjoy.

The whole trip I had heard about "Tablas" and we'd seen these great looking plates of meats and cheeses. So, next to the last night we went to the (sort of ) nearby square, picked out a sidewalk table and enjoyed outdoor Friday night in BA. Had the special drink of the night and ordered the Tabla (or Picada) for 2. Now service tends to be a bit slow, but I think the waiter took a vacation after he took our order. Finally a waitress took pity on us , took our order again and eventually it came.

To say we were overwhelmed is an understatement. Two Huge wooden cutting boards arrived...one with all kinds of meat, the other with cheeses. There were caramelized onions, and giant green olives. A basket of rolls came with it. SO much meat and cheese at one time. WOW.



Everything was of great quality and was delicious but we could hardly make a dent in it. Afraid that our now re-appeared waiter did not understand that we wanted to take the leftovers, I followed him to the counter where with translation from the chef boxes appeared and all was saved.

There was so much left over that we had meat and cheese with our breakfast the next two mornings, a sandwich to eat while wandering, and dinner in the B&B living room with our bottle of Malbec. I had set aside the hard cheeses and they went to the airport with us for snacking.

I have not talked about prices for food, we did not find "bargains" unless it was decent wine from the supermarket. Most meals started around $10-12., it was hard to get a small meal or snack. Not expensive but after day after day of big meals you sometimes would like just a little something. For this feast it was around $40. with 2 drinks, a bargain considering the quality.

I end with two "cutest" empanadas....in Puerto Iguazu. One time when I actually did only order a little thing.

Thanks to those of you who have followed along , it's been fun.


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