Herbal infusions and more

[vengroff]

Dear Mr. DeGroff,

Thank you for taking the time to join us on eGullet.

Today, we find a new generation of bartenders who are experimenting with a variety of homemade herbal infusions, interesting fruits, vegetables, and their juices. I'm thinking, for example, of Eben Klemm at Pico in Tribeca. His ingredients include rosemary, hibiscus, ginger, kumquat and cucumber.

One might be tempted to argue that we in America just rediscovering the age-old European art of flavoring spirits, from the aquavits of the north to the grappas of the south. However, I think we are seeing something a little different, as many of the infusions are not intended to be consumed alone, but instead are the fonds for specific mixed drinks.

What is your opinion of this approach to the art of the cocktail? Do you enjoy this sort of drink? Is it revolutionary? Is it here to stay, or just the flavor of the month?

[Kingcocktail]

I am delighted with Eben’s drinks and have enjoyed them on many occasions. I love to see that kind of creativity in the profession, but my ambition is inspire a widespread return to fresh fruit and fresh ingredient cocktails, then I will turn to the exotics. I am pleased to see an operation return to fresh lemon and lime juice and sorry that so few have, especially some of our first class hotels and hotel chains that prior to prohibition were the home of the classic American Iced cocktail. The fact that I cannot get a fresh sour drink in the King Cole Bar of the St Regis or the beautiful bar at the Marriott Marquis is shocking.

Lets get the basics back before we get too ambitious, and I don’t mean to imply that young creative bartenders shouldn’t pursue these kinds of drinks they absolutely should.

Dale