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"The PDT Cocktail Book"


jnash85
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Another PDT cocktail with Benedictine, Johnny Iuzzini's L.E.S. Globetrotter (a twist on the Cock ‘n’ Bull Special in Ted Saucier's Bottom’s Up): rye, cognac, Benedictine, creole shrubb. Served this up, then realized it was quite strong and actually supposed to be on ice, so I quickly transferred them after I took the picture. Smooth with beautiful orange flavors.

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Edited by FrogPrincesse (log)
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I bought a few Moro blood oranges last week and was looking for a new orange-based cocktail to showcase them. I remembered that I had always wanted to try the Monkey Gland, one of these memorable cocktail names, although I had no idea what it was like. I thought that using blood oranges was appropriate! Anyway, it's gin, orange juice, pomegranate molasses, and a rinse of absinthe/pastis.

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Nice color. Regarding the taste, it's quite different. Not structured as a typical cocktail. It highlighted the botanicals in the gin and some from the pastis (but not the licorice notes surprisingly). The orange seemed to blend in the background despite the large amount. I am not sure if I liked it but it was intriguing and fresh. The problem was that it tasted a little flat without much dimension.

I was going through some old eG posts and I saw that I was not the only one scratching my head with that cocktail (see discussion on the Monkey Gland here). It might be worth trying again with a different gin, even though Beefeater is specified in the PDT recipe.

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Gorgeous color.

DrunkLab.tumblr.com

”In Demerara some of the rum producers have a unique custom of placing chunks of raw meat in the casks to assist in aging, to absorb certain impurities, and to add a certain distinctive character.” -Peter Valaer, "Foreign and Domestic Rum," 1937

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Gorgeous color.

Yes at least that is one thing this cocktail has going for it!

I know it's not traditional, but maybe a squeeze of lemon or lime would add structure and contrast? Along with the bright notes from a fat orange twist like Toby mentions in the thread you linked. It seems a shame to give up on a drink with a memorable name that looks like that.

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”In Demerara some of the rum producers have a unique custom of placing chunks of raw meat in the casks to assist in aging, to absorb certain impurities, and to add a certain distinctive character.” -Peter Valaer, "Foreign and Domestic Rum," 1937

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Gorgeous color.

Yes at least that is one thing this cocktail has going for it!

I know it's not traditional, but maybe a squeeze of lemon or lime would add structure and contrast? Along with the bright notes from a fat orange twist like Toby mentions in the thread you linked. It seems a shame to give up on a drink with a memorable name that looks like that.

I haven't given up but there are so many cocktails and so little time :-) These all sound like good ideas.

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When my husband is not home, I always gravitate towards recipes containing amari for some reason... So last night it was the Montgomery Smith from PDT: cognac, Bénédictine, Fernet-Branca, lemon twist. Between the calming presence of cognac and Bénédictine, and the modest amount of Fernet (1/4 oz), this would make an excellent Introduction to Fernet for Fernet novices! The Fernet blends with the Benedictine and does not shine until the end, adding a kick to the drink. Very cool.

8556454450_a383f0c651_z.jpg

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We've been enjoying this book. The biggest problem is what cocktail to try. Our solution has been, since we are crossword puzzle addicts, the last letter we enterin the puzzle is the cocktail for the evening (my wife insists weekends only). Montgomery Smith was a few weeks ago and we also enjoyed it.

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We've been enjoying this book. The biggest problem is what cocktail to try. Our solution has been, since we are crossword puzzle addicts, the last letter we enterin the puzzle is the cocktail for the evening (my wife insists weekends only). Montgomery Smith was a few weeks ago and we also enjoyed it.

I like your system, it sounds like fun. You should join along and post your cocktail notes as you go!

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Last night's cocktail for my husband was a Honeymoon Cocktail which is based on a recipe by Hugo Ensslin in Recipes for Mixed Drinks. In PDT they call for Laird's Bonded Apple Brandy which I used to have a bottle of, but decided in the end that I much preferred calvados. So I used calvados Pays d'Auge fine (aged for a minimum of 2 years) together with benedictine, curaçao, and lemon juice. Note that the version of the Honeymoon Cocktail in Ted Haigh's Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails calls for calvados.

8558966874_8675e0ef2f_z.jpg

It felt quite strong with a lot of aromas and a touch of acidity from the lemon juice. A contemplative drink.

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  • 1 month later...

I made the Rattlesnake from the PDT book today and struggled to love it - mainly due to the egg white I think. I ended up with a drink that had a pretty thick layer of foam on top of it (almost a soft meringuey feel!) that gave it a wierd taste. It's not the egg per se I think, as it was fresh free range. Is that how it is meant to be?

Edited by thampik (log)
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When my husband is not home, I always gravitate towards recipes containing amari for some reason... So last night it was the Montgomery Smith from PDT: cognac, Bénédictine, Fernet-Branca, lemon twist. Between the calming presence of cognac and Bénédictine, and the modest amount of Fernet (1/4 oz), this would make an excellent Introduction to Fernet for Fernet novices! The Fernet blends with the Benedictine and does not shine until the end, adding a kick to the drink. Very cool.

8556454450_a383f0c651_z.jpg

Bitter and twisted when your husband is away; I'm sure he would be happy to hear this :wink:

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Bitter and twisted when your husband is away; I'm sure he would be happy to hear this :wink:

Oops. My cover is blown!

I made the Rattlesnake from the PDT book today and struggled to love it - mainly due to the egg white I think. I ended up with a drink that had a pretty thick layer of foam on top of it (almost a soft meringuey feel!) that gave it a wierd taste. It's not the egg per se I think, as it was fresh free range. Is that how it is meant to be?

There is supposed to be thick foam on top. If you are getting a soft meringue it means that your shaking technique is good! In my experience, the egg white foam does not have much taste. Its main function is to bring all the flavors together as it softens the rye and the absinthe/pastis a bit. It creates a creamy/foamy texture that I find very pleasant. Below is a typical example (achieved by dry shaking/shaking with ice). Eggs drinks can take some getting used to but after a while they make a lot of sense.

7253125404_84b3f6f7e7_z.jpg

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Another Hemingway Daiq. Even tho' it's cold. Fuck I love this drink.

No grapefruit, so faux grapefruit:

1 1/2 oz Wray & Nephew

1/2 oz Maraschino

1/4 oz Aperol

1/4 oz Campari

1 oz lime juice

Fabulous, although I'd probably cut back the Marschino to 1/4 oz next time.

Kindred Cocktails | Craft + Collect + Concoct + Categorize + Community

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Another Hemingway Daiq. Even tho' it's cold. Fuck I love this drink.

No grapefruit, so faux grapefruit:

1 1/2 oz Wray & Nephew

1/2 oz Maraschino

1/4 oz Aperol

1/4 oz Campari

1 oz lime juice

Fabulous, although I'd probably cut back the Marschino to 1/4 oz next time.

A good idea, and it could be taken further by making a Donga Punch with Aperol + Campari subbing for the grapefruit and Becherovka for the cinnamon syrup. Might try that one of these days.

DrunkLab.tumblr.com

”In Demerara some of the rum producers have a unique custom of placing chunks of raw meat in the casks to assist in aging, to absorb certain impurities, and to add a certain distinctive character.” -Peter Valaer, "Foreign and Domestic Rum," 1937

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Another Hemingway Daiq. Even tho' it's cold. Fuck I love this drink.

No grapefruit, so faux grapefruit:

1 1/2 oz Wray & Nephew

1/2 oz Maraschino

1/4 oz Aperol

1/4 oz Campari

1 oz lime juice

Fabulous, although I'd probably cut back the Marschino to 1/4 oz next time.

Earnestly Jamaican?

I'm going to give this spec to my colleague; he'll love it.

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Caprice, a dry Martini with Benedictine. The PDT recipe specifies Dolin but I was out and used Noilly Prat. Everything else was done according to the PDT specs.

8711852875_8118bce3e1_z.jpg

Lovely.

It's the dry version of the Rolls Royce that I tried recently.

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Trader Vic's Royal Bermuda Yacht Club (1947) with the ratios from PDT. Rum, lime juice, Cointreau, falernum. I was out of Barbados rum so I used Barbancourt 8.

It's a very good cocktail that would be fun to try with various rums. It's interesting that this lime + falernum + Cointreau combo was also used by Donn Beach in the Test Pilot (1941), which adds Angostura bitters and pastis to get a completely different feel to the cocktail, from crisp and clean for the RBYC to complex and exotic for the Test Pilot. Very illustrative of their respective styles.

8725170608_0733818b32_z.jpg

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Beautiful cocktail, mukki. I never had much chance with egg cocktails - I probably need to work on my shaking technique to achieve such a nice result.

Tonight I tried the Rio Bravo: Cachaça, lime, orgeat, and muddled ginger. Really fresh and an excellent vehicle to showcase homemade orgeat!

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Made this last night - great drink.

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Caprice, a dry Martini with Benedictine. The PDT recipe specifies Dolin but I was out and used Noilly Prat. Everything else was done according to the PDT specs.

8711852875_8118bce3e1_z.jpg

Lovely.

Agreed: I made this twice, once with Malacca and once with Ransom, producing two very different and very good drinks.

Chris Amirault

eG Ethics Signatory

Sir Luscious got gator belts and patty melts

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had some extra tamarind puree kicking around from some Southeast Asian cooking I'd been doing recently, so I thought I would give the T&T a try.

T&T Cocktail-1.jpg

Obviously the trick here is getting the tamarind puree to the same consistency/tartness as the original. I was using the plastic-wrapped bricks of tamarind, which I soaked with an equal amount of water and then pressed through a sieve. I didn't actually have 1.5 oz of it left, so I thinned it out with some more water. It ended up getting pretty much totally lost. It also didn't help that the mezcal I was using was Monte Alban; I'm trying to use it up, having bought it many years ago. On the one hand, I think people are probably too critical of it: it's not exactly bad, though I have a sneaking suspicion there's some pretty tremendous bottle variation out there. On the other hand, it seems to have a tendency to clobber anything else it's mixed with, which happened here. I'm of half a mind to try substituting it for Islay scotches, it's so smoky. Or maybe I'll just use the rest of it to flambé some crêpes.

Matthew Kayahara

Kayahara.ca

@mtkayahara

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Monte Alban: We call out "Manky Mezcal, point 9" when stock taking. (There's no bottle that has dipped below, "Mostly full" and even that was just the bartender trying the bottle some months ago)

F**k, I don't know how something 100% Agave can be so bad: It's the Cuervo Gold of Oaxaca. Possibly worse.

Seriously, just use it to weed your garden; it's useless for much else.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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      B. Power Mode – Pan Material Comparisons
       
      Given the differences in power setting granularity and maximum power between the two frequencies, it is difficult to assess what X watts into the pot means in, say, a copper-versus-clad or –disk showdown. What is clear, however, is that Setting X under disk and clad seems “hotter” than the same setting under copper and aluminum.

      I will need to precisely calibrate the Panasonic for wattage anyway for the hyperconductivity project, so I will obtain a higher-powered watt meter to determine the wattage of every power setting for both frequencies. Until then, however, the only way I can fairly handicap a race is to apply a reduction figure to the ferromagnetic setting (2400W being 69% of 3500W). Given that we know the wattage at the maximum settings, we can infer that Setting 14 (actually 13.8) on the 20-step ferromagnetic range iis approximately the same heat output as the maximum setting (18) for copper/aluminum.

      The boil times for 4 liters of 50F water in 10” diameter pots shocked me. The 10” x 3mm tinned copper pot’s water reached 211F in 36:41. Not an especially fast time at 2400 watts. The 10” disk-based pressure cooker bottom? Well, it didn’t make it—it took an hour to get to 208F and then hung there. So that left me wondering if the Panasonic engineers simply decided that 2400 watts was enough for copper and aluminum. I have a theory why the copper pot boiled and the SS one didn’t under the same power, but getting into that’s for another time.

      C. Evenness Comparisons
       
      The wires which generate the induction field are wound in a circular pattern; when energized, they create a torus-shaped magnetic field. The wound coil is constructed with an empty hole at its center. As matters of physics, the magnetic field’s intensity drops off extremely fast as a function of the distance from the coil; a few millimeters above the Ceran, the field is so weak no meaningful heat will be generated. This means that most induction cooktops heat *only* the very bottom of pans, and in a distinct 2-dimensional “doughnut” shape.

      All of the above can result in a pan having a cooler central spot, a hotter ring directly over the coil, and a cooler periphery outside the coil. It is left to the cookware to try to even out these thermal discontinuities when cooking. Some materials and pan constructions are better at this than others: the successful constructions utilize more highly-conductive metals such as aluminum and copper, but unless the material is very thick, there can be a ring-shaped hotspot that can scorch food.
      Until the Panasonic arrived to market, hotspot comparisons between ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper pans depended largely on comparing induction’s flat, more discrete heat ring with gas’s more diffuse, 3-dimensional one. Dodgeball-style debate ensued, with few clear conclusions. But now, for the first time, equally-powered flat heat rings in two different frequencies allow us to directly compare evenness in ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper cookware.

      The simplest and easiest way to assess cookware evenness is the “scorchprint”, which does not require infrared or other advanced thermal imaging equipment. I’ve posted on how to conduct scorchprinting elsewhere, but basically a pan is evenly dusted with flour; heat is applied to the pan bottom. As the flour is toasted, any hotspots visually emerge, giving the viewer a useful general idea of evenness.
       
      I will later post the photos of scorchprints I made of 4 different pans run using the Panasonic KY-MK3500: (1) a Demeyere 28cm Proline 5* clad frypan; (2) a Fissler Original Profi disk-base 28cm frypan; a 6mm aluminum omelet pan; and (4) a 32cm x 3.2mm Dehillerin sauté. To make it a fair race, I heated all the pans at 2400W until they reached 450F, and then backed off the power setting to maintain 450F. I did this in order not to compromise my saute’s tin lining. As you will see, both the clad Demeyere and the disk-based Fissler did print the typical brown doughnut, with a cooler center and periphery. By far the most even was the thick, all-aluminum pan, which actually was even over its entirety—even including the walls. The copper sauté was also quite even, although its larger size and mass really dissipated heat; once 450F was dialed in, no more browning happened, even after 30 minutes.
       
      I conclude that the straightgauge pans were far more effective at shunting heat to their peripheries and walls (and also to some extent into the air) than the clad and disk-based pans. The latter accumulated their heat with most of it staying in the center of the pans. Eventually, even the “doughnut hole” blended into the scorch ring because the walls were not bleeding sufficient heat away from the floor. This was especially pronounced in the Fissler, the high wall and rim areas of which never exceeded 125F. The aluminum pan, in contrast varied less than 30F everywhere on the pan.

      D. Other Considerations

      The Panasonic’s fan noise at the cook’s position was noticeable at 63 dBA, higher than with the VMP’s 57 dBA. These levels are characterized as “normal conversation” and “quiet street”, respectively. Interestingly, I found two other, potentially more important differences. First, the Panasonic’s fan stays on, even after the unit is powered off, whereas the VMP’s fan shuts off immediately when the hob is turned off. Second, the Panasonic’s fan steps down from the louder speed to a much quieter (47 dBA, characterized as “quiet home”) level until the Ceran is cool to sustained touch, at which point it shuts off completely. I think the Panasonic’s ability to continue to vent and cool itself is a great feature, especially since a cook could leave a large, full, hot pan on the glass.

      The glowing circle is useless for gauging heat setting or intensity. And while it works to indicate a hot surface, it remains lit long after you can hold your hand in place dead center.
       
      VI. Summary and Lessons
       
      The Panasonic KY-MK3500 is a solid unit, well-conceived and rugged. It is extremely easy to use. It works well with both the common 24kHz frequency used with ferromagnetic cookware, and the 90kHz frequency chosen here for copper and aluminum. It effectively and automatically switches between the two.

      In my opinion, it points the way to expanding the worldwide induction appliance market to include dual frequencies. It also obviates the need to: (a) junk otherwise excellent cookware merely to have induction; and (b) retrofit designs to bond on ferromagnetic outer layers. In fact, in my opinion, my tests indicate that, in a dual-frequency world, adding ferromagnetic bottoms may well be a drag on pans’ performance.
       
      I also consider the Panasonic Met-All to be ground-breaking in what it can tell us about *pans*, because all metallic pans are now commensurable on induction. Clearly (to me anyway), watt-for-watt, the copper and aluminum pans performed better than did the clad and disk-based pans on this unit. Boil times were faster, there was less propensity to scorch, and the conductive-sidewall pans definitely added more heat to the pans’ contents. We may ultimately find that 90kHz fields save energy compared to 24kHz fields, much as copper and aluminum require less heat on gas and electric coil.
      In terms of heat transfer, the copper and aluminum pans came close to emulating the same pans on gas. And at 2400W/3500W it has the power of a full size appliance in a relatively small tabletop package.
       
      The Panasonic is far from perfect, however. It can’t really be considered portable. There are far too few temperature settings, and what few it has are not accurate or consistent in terms of judging pan contents and attaining the same temperature in different pans (and even the same pan unless clean). The luminous ring could easily have been made a useful indicator of intensity, but wasn’t. And it lacks things that should be obvious, including a through-the-glass “button” contact thermocouple, more power granularity, an analog-style control knob, and capacity to accept an external thermocouple probe for PID control.
       
      Most importantly for me, the Panasonic KY-MK3500 portends more good things to come. Retail price remains $1,700-$2,400, but I jumped on it at $611, and I’ve seen it elsewhere for as low as $1,200.
       
      The manual can be found here: ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/commercialfoo...
       
      Photo Credit:  Panasonic Corporation

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